Oxai Galactika unboxing, assembly, setup, maiden etc.
#151
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: oakland,
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It looks like air brake on T wing for downline, two more moving surfaces also on T wing may be for snaps & rolling maneuvers? Counter-balance on rudder for more effective knife edge but yet can use a lesser torque & lighter servo?
I believe his whole idea is to have a mono plane similar to the performance of a bipe but don't want the hassle of an actual extra wing on top.
Adrian
I believe his whole idea is to have a mono plane similar to the performance of a bipe but don't want the hassle of an actual extra wing on top.
Adrian
#154
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Hi,
Some more photos of the Galactika + top wing and it's trailing edge control surfaces:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5&postcount=31
/Bo
Some more photos of the Galactika + top wing and it's trailing edge control surfaces:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5&postcount=31
/Bo
#155
Some more photos of CPLRs plane
Only the central airbrake was used. He experimented with the outer section but the breaking was too much. The outer sections are taped off.
Apparently the brake adds a pull to the belly reducing downline mix requirement.
Only the central airbrake was used. He experimented with the outer section but the breaking was too much. The outer sections are taped off.
Apparently the brake adds a pull to the belly reducing downline mix requirement.
#156
The belly canards improve knife edge and reduces the rud aileron mix required for extreme KE manueuvers.
I just gave Mr. Hebert a nose bleed ; )
You can see the internal mounting system used in my last post
I just gave Mr. Hebert a nose bleed ; )
You can see the internal mounting system used in my last post
Last edited by propnuter; 11-16-2017 at 03:23 AM. Reason: Detail
#161
The belly fins are permanent. But could easily be made removable.You can see the attachment point on the belly of the internal photo i provided.The rounded wing tips will be standard on the G+. I think that the tips and rudder counter balance are just aesthetic changes.
Shane
Shane
#162
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Valencia, SPAIN
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T brake from Juan Rombaut
T brake is idea from Spanish F3A pilot Juan Rombaut. He is using it in his Cosmic full season. At F3A Bordeaux World Cup CPLR look at it and ask Juan to copy the idea. Since then they are sharing his experiences with T brake. It is used as airbrake when power is at idle and is really powerful, it is nice see how slow plane come down when T brake deployed, but Juan use full Spanish and bigger choro than CPLR. It need some elevador mixing and a powerful servo and strong transmission. My club F3A mate have the second Cosmic with T brake, set by Juan, and I have direct experience on it.
Alfonso Garcia
Alfonso Garcia
#163
Thread Starter
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Hi,
Little update in this thread. Canged to Pull-Pull system for rudder in my Galactika. Made an own thread for that here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/elec...endations.html
/Bo
Little update in this thread. Canged to Pull-Pull system for rudder in my Galactika. Made an own thread for that here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/elec...endations.html
/Bo
#164
Thread Starter
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Hi,
After 6 hours work with the soldering iron, shrink tube, tape, cardboard... 5 new LiPo packs ready for use in my Galactika.
It is Hacker TopFuel Eco-X 4600 mAh 20C F3A LiPo. Weight of 10 cell pack is from 989 gram to 993 gram.
I have changed from rudder servo in tail to rudder servo in front of fuselage with Pull-Pull for rudder to allow these lighter LiPo packs.
I need to be little gentle on throttle now so I do not ruin them by empty them below 20% capacity. I'm used to 5000 mAh LiPo.
Got my Galactika weight down to 4880 gram with these new LiPo packs.
One nice feature with larger Eco-X LiPo is that they have a voltage indicator and one can press a push button on that to have a small row of LEDs light up telling charge state. Good to check just before a pack is mounted in the plane before a flight, to avoid taking to the sky with a disharged LiPo.
I ordered the LiPo packs directly from Hacker in Germany and had them within a week.
The strange thing is after I had ordered them these special 4600 mAh F3A LiPo was not to be found anymore on Hacker homepage, and it is still not avaliable to buy today in their shop. I will e-mail them and ask, it would be good to be able to buy same LiPo packs in future if I need.
/Bo
Hacker TopFuel Eco-X 4600 mAh 20C F3A LiPo.
After 6 hours work with the soldering iron, shrink tube, tape, cardboard... 5 new LiPo packs ready for use in my Galactika.
It is Hacker TopFuel Eco-X 4600 mAh 20C F3A LiPo. Weight of 10 cell pack is from 989 gram to 993 gram.
I have changed from rudder servo in tail to rudder servo in front of fuselage with Pull-Pull for rudder to allow these lighter LiPo packs.
I need to be little gentle on throttle now so I do not ruin them by empty them below 20% capacity. I'm used to 5000 mAh LiPo.
Got my Galactika weight down to 4880 gram with these new LiPo packs.
One nice feature with larger Eco-X LiPo is that they have a voltage indicator and one can press a push button on that to have a small row of LEDs light up telling charge state. Good to check just before a pack is mounted in the plane before a flight, to avoid taking to the sky with a disharged LiPo.
I ordered the LiPo packs directly from Hacker in Germany and had them within a week.
The strange thing is after I had ordered them these special 4600 mAh F3A LiPo was not to be found anymore on Hacker homepage, and it is still not avaliable to buy today in their shop. I will e-mail them and ask, it would be good to be able to buy same LiPo packs in future if I need.
/Bo
Hacker TopFuel Eco-X 4600 mAh 20C F3A LiPo.
Last edited by bem; 05-01-2018 at 03:21 PM.
#166
Hello Bo. Greetings from DK
I also purchased the Special F3A packs from Hacker just in time to learn that they have gone away from the market.....
Wonder what that means ....In mild weather conditions i have 58 % left capacity in them after p19 and them are not hot
br Eggert
I also purchased the Special F3A packs from Hacker just in time to learn that they have gone away from the market.....
Wonder what that means ....In mild weather conditions i have 58 % left capacity in them after p19 and them are not hot
br Eggert
#167
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Hi big_g,
I understand Your concern, but it might look more dangerous then it is.
The photo with the 5 LiPo packs in my previous post was taken directly after I had made the packs, so all bullet connectors was open and exposed.
Actually, when I store the packs they look like this, see photo below. When I use them in the plane I only take away the fuel tube on the red plus terminal.
Only when I charge the packs, for obvious reason, I have all 4 bullets connected to the charger (I use dual port charger, so one channel connected to one 5 cell pack and the second channel to the second 5 cell pack).
I have been using this for years. There is really not much other way You can do this if bullet connectors are in use.
I have used EC5 connectors many years ago in my 2M F3A planes. But I prefer bullet connectors since many years.
/Bo
I understand Your concern, but it might look more dangerous then it is.
The photo with the 5 LiPo packs in my previous post was taken directly after I had made the packs, so all bullet connectors was open and exposed.
Actually, when I store the packs they look like this, see photo below. When I use them in the plane I only take away the fuel tube on the red plus terminal.
Only when I charge the packs, for obvious reason, I have all 4 bullets connected to the charger (I use dual port charger, so one channel connected to one 5 cell pack and the second channel to the second 5 cell pack).
I have been using this for years. There is really not much other way You can do this if bullet connectors are in use.
I have used EC5 connectors many years ago in my 2M F3A planes. But I prefer bullet connectors since many years.
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-01-2018 at 03:07 PM.
#168
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Hello Bo. Greetings from DK
I also purchased the Special F3A packs from Hacker just in time to learn that they have gone away from the market.....
Wonder what that means ....In mild weather conditions i have 58 % left capacity in them after p19 and them are not hot
br Eggert
I also purchased the Special F3A packs from Hacker just in time to learn that they have gone away from the market.....
Wonder what that means ....In mild weather conditions i have 58 % left capacity in them after p19 and them are not hot
br Eggert
I have e-mailed Hacker now and asked if the item no. 44600531 TopFuel LiPo 20C-ECO-X 4600mAh 5S Competition F3A 2017 is permanently or just temporarily removed from their webshop. I will come back here when they have answered.
I know some other guys here in Sweden that use these Hacker 4600 mAh LiPo and they seems to work fine.
regards,
Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-01-2018 at 01:35 PM.
#169
Thread Starter
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Hi,
I flew 5 flights yesterday evening after work with my Galactika (photo below after finnished for the evening), with the new Hacker Eco-X 4600 mAh Lipo (and the new Pull-Pull system for rudder).
All was fine, the plane flew as before (before the "enhancements") but the plane has sligtly better vertical performance now since it is lighter.
I think I have little to much play in the rudder servo gear now so I will change rudder servo (Futaba BLS171 SV) to a new same (spare I have).
I had flown about 12 flights with my reserve plane, MythoS Pro, last week just to warm up and it is rather much difference in flight characteristics between MythoS Pro and Galactika.
I have same motor in both, Hacker Q80-14XS and Master Mezon ESC but I use different propellers, on MythoS Pro I have Falcon Electric Carbon V2 21.5 x 14.5 and on Galactika Falcon Electric carbon V2 21x14.
MythoS Pro has an overall slower cruise speed and is slower in vertical downlines. Both ESCs are configured the same regarding the break. Galactika is faster in general but little more precise in most manouvres. The biggest disadvantage in my opinion with Galactika is that it is faster in general (and do not really fly good if flown slow in my opinion) and is also faster in vertical downlines. This is a rather big disadvantage since there is less time to perform maneouvres and it is easy to be behind in the flying so to speak. Galactika is rather sensitive to center of gravity also, compared to MythoS Pro.
What I really want on Galactika is slower downlines, maybe some change in brake settings could help, I do not know, but since I have same brake settiings in both my Master Mezon ESC it should not be that big difference maybe. Perhaps the different props gives the result I see? If anyone clever have any suggestion on this It is welcome and I will try it. Probably the new "Galactika+" (Plus) with its top wing with break is the key to get real slow vertical downlines with Galactika? If anyone that has a Galactika+ and read this please post Your impression on vertical downlines.
regards,
Bo
Galactika at the field May 2, 2018.
I flew 5 flights yesterday evening after work with my Galactika (photo below after finnished for the evening), with the new Hacker Eco-X 4600 mAh Lipo (and the new Pull-Pull system for rudder).
All was fine, the plane flew as before (before the "enhancements") but the plane has sligtly better vertical performance now since it is lighter.
I think I have little to much play in the rudder servo gear now so I will change rudder servo (Futaba BLS171 SV) to a new same (spare I have).
I had flown about 12 flights with my reserve plane, MythoS Pro, last week just to warm up and it is rather much difference in flight characteristics between MythoS Pro and Galactika.
I have same motor in both, Hacker Q80-14XS and Master Mezon ESC but I use different propellers, on MythoS Pro I have Falcon Electric Carbon V2 21.5 x 14.5 and on Galactika Falcon Electric carbon V2 21x14.
MythoS Pro has an overall slower cruise speed and is slower in vertical downlines. Both ESCs are configured the same regarding the break. Galactika is faster in general but little more precise in most manouvres. The biggest disadvantage in my opinion with Galactika is that it is faster in general (and do not really fly good if flown slow in my opinion) and is also faster in vertical downlines. This is a rather big disadvantage since there is less time to perform maneouvres and it is easy to be behind in the flying so to speak. Galactika is rather sensitive to center of gravity also, compared to MythoS Pro.
What I really want on Galactika is slower downlines, maybe some change in brake settings could help, I do not know, but since I have same brake settiings in both my Master Mezon ESC it should not be that big difference maybe. Perhaps the different props gives the result I see? If anyone clever have any suggestion on this It is welcome and I will try it. Probably the new "Galactika+" (Plus) with its top wing with break is the key to get real slow vertical downlines with Galactika? If anyone that has a Galactika+ and read this please post Your impression on vertical downlines.
regards,
Bo
Galactika at the field May 2, 2018.
Last edited by bem; 05-03-2018 at 12:55 AM.
#170
Thread Starter
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Hi Eggert.
I have e-mailed Hacker now and asked if the item no. 44600531 TopFuel LiPo 20C-ECO-X 4600mAh 5S Competition F3A 2017 is permanently or just temporarily removed from their webshop. I will come back here when they have answered.
I know some other guys here in Sweden that use these Hacker 4600 mAh LiPo and they seems to work fine.
regards,
Bo
I have e-mailed Hacker now and asked if the item no. 44600531 TopFuel LiPo 20C-ECO-X 4600mAh 5S Competition F3A 2017 is permanently or just temporarily removed from their webshop. I will come back here when they have answered.
I know some other guys here in Sweden that use these Hacker 4600 mAh LiPo and they seems to work fine.
regards,
Bo
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Brushless-Motors/F3A/F3A-drive-accessories/TopFuel-LiPo-20C-ECO-X-4600mAh-5S-Competition-F3A-2017.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=44600531&p=10414
I also got a newsletter from Hacker today and they have a new special 5100 mAh 20C Competition F3A 2018 LiPo now also.
Reasonable light, 2 x 548 gram = 1096 gram for 10 cells. That is about 130 gram lighter then 2 x 5 cell of their regular Eco-X 5000 mAh 20C.
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Brushless-Motors/F3A/F3A-drive-accessories/TopFuel-LiPo-20C-ECO-X-5100mAh-5S-Competition-F3A-2018.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=45100531&p=10414
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-04-2018 at 06:43 AM.
#172
Thread Starter
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Kobi,
I wonder if Hui Yang Professional F3A has this top wing (canalizer) with break as standard feature today for Galactika+?
If it would help both to reduce dowline speed and help reduce pull to canopy in downlines it would for sure be an interesting alternative to consider.
/Bo
I wonder if Hui Yang Professional F3A has this top wing (canalizer) with break as standard feature today for Galactika+?
If it would help both to reduce dowline speed and help reduce pull to canopy in downlines it would for sure be an interesting alternative to consider.
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-08-2018 at 12:32 AM.
#173
Thread Starter
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Hi,
I was out flying today, it was very windy. I had luck: when I unloaded my Galactika from the car at the field I placed it behind the car briefely and then reached for the bag where I have two screwdrivers with strings, to attach to the wheels/landing gear into the ground. While I reached for the bag there was a strong wind gust throwing Galactika up in the air (no wing was mounted but the canalizer was mounted and it's protection cover, as well as stab+fin cover) and it landed upside down. It landed upside down vertically and did not land on its side. And that was my luck, not a scratch on top wing or anyting else on the plane. Previous season I was not so lucky when same thing happened but then the top wing broke. It was my lucky day today obviously. The flying was fine despite the hard wind, about 10 flights before I thought it was enough for the day.
There was a sailplayne flyer out flying at the field also, he was flying F3B (with a plane "Dopamin"), and a helicopter pilot, flying F3C (with SAB Globlin 700).
/Bo
I was out flying today, it was very windy. I had luck: when I unloaded my Galactika from the car at the field I placed it behind the car briefely and then reached for the bag where I have two screwdrivers with strings, to attach to the wheels/landing gear into the ground. While I reached for the bag there was a strong wind gust throwing Galactika up in the air (no wing was mounted but the canalizer was mounted and it's protection cover, as well as stab+fin cover) and it landed upside down. It landed upside down vertically and did not land on its side. And that was my luck, not a scratch on top wing or anyting else on the plane. Previous season I was not so lucky when same thing happened but then the top wing broke. It was my lucky day today obviously. The flying was fine despite the hard wind, about 10 flights before I thought it was enough for the day.
There was a sailplayne flyer out flying at the field also, he was flying F3B (with a plane "Dopamin"), and a helicopter pilot, flying F3C (with SAB Globlin 700).
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-11-2018 at 05:57 AM.
#174
My Feedback: (90)
Bo,
Interesting story.
Back here in central Texas, strong south wing is also very common (25-30 MPH). What that I found a useful procedure to prevent the plane from being blown away is as follows.
1. Install the power battery pack while the fuze is still in the car;
2. move the fuze out of the car to the ground;
3. attach additional weights to the landing gear/tail-wheel assembly if necessary;
4. install the wings;
For windy days, I use some exercise sand bags about 1 lb each to attach to the landing gears. There are Velco straps on the sand bag so the attachment is straight forward.
Even in a calm day, I always leave the power battery pack in the plane.
Interesting story.
Back here in central Texas, strong south wing is also very common (25-30 MPH). What that I found a useful procedure to prevent the plane from being blown away is as follows.
1. Install the power battery pack while the fuze is still in the car;
2. move the fuze out of the car to the ground;
3. attach additional weights to the landing gear/tail-wheel assembly if necessary;
4. install the wings;
For windy days, I use some exercise sand bags about 1 lb each to attach to the landing gears. There are Velco straps on the sand bag so the attachment is straight forward.
Even in a calm day, I always leave the power battery pack in the plane.
Last edited by nonstoprc; 05-11-2018 at 04:35 AM.
#175
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nonstoprc,
Another way to prevent a plane from taking off the ground by itself in strong winds can be to use a neckstrap around the spinner/prop and attached to a screwdriver into the ground, like this (an Ascent Biplane owned by a Norwegian F3A flyer). Plane should be set with nose pointing into the wind.
Another way to prevent a plane from taking off the ground by itself in strong winds can be to use a neckstrap around the spinner/prop and attached to a screwdriver into the ground, like this (an Ascent Biplane owned by a Norwegian F3A flyer). Plane should be set with nose pointing into the wind.
Last edited by bem; 05-11-2018 at 05:04 PM.