Now I took the 1/16" ply nose ring spacer I made up several installations ago and lightly tack glue it to the nose. Just three very small spots of medium CA is what I used. This creates the slight spinner gap you need for a smooth running system.
BTW, the airplane is exactly as I received it from BJ Craft. I'll note when I have to do any work on it.
Now the motor with the former bolted on using the vibration dampeners is slipped in to the fuse from the back. The drive unit is then installed on to the motor, making sure it is seated all the way back on the motor shaft. Then the backplate of the drive is centered up on to the fuse and taped in place.
After taping everything in place, the former and motor should be slightly loose in the fuse. You should be able to rock the motor slightly. You do not want any pressure between the fuse and the former at this point. If you do, it is very likely to distort things and the motor will not stay aligned after you glue the former and remove the tape. So for here, slightly loose is good!
Building turbine jets a few years back I was introduced to Loc-Tite Hysol 9462 epoxy. It is by far the best adhesive to use when gluing to a fuse. Good for a lot of other things, also. Big thing about it is that it is thixotropic, which is a $10 word for it stays in place. It will not run or sag. It comes in the tubes and you use a gun to expel the glue. Before that you install a tip on to the gun that mixes the epoxy as it goes out the tip. I try to keep my glue jobs reasonably neat so after I get the glue in place I try to clean it up using mixing stick and Q-tips.
Here it is after gluing. OK, not my neatest job, but it was late at night! Last pic was this morning after removing the tape.
BTW, when the glue is drying, do not leave the fuse horizontal. Put it on the tail and block it up so the nose is pointing straight up. This will relieve any stress from the weight of the motor that might deform things causing a loss of alignment.