viva_peru

Hello all,

First of all, Happy Easter! I have spent some time trying to program a new Jeti Spin ESC and for some reason I am having a difficult time with the throttle end points, particularly the low end point. This is what I have done so far:

1) I used the Jeti Spin Box to measure the throttle end points and got 1.14 ms and 1.92 ms for the low and high ends (Spektrum radio)
2) I then programmed those values using the Spin Box under the fixed end points option
3) The motor will not run nor does the ESC give me the startup beep.

For the transmitter, the throttle travel is set to 100% both up and down with no subtrim nor regular trim being used. I have played with the low end point and I can get the motor to run if I set it to 1.30 ms, but it requires about 1/3 throttle stick movement before the motor starts up. If I use the Auto setting on the low end point, the motor will run, but again, it requires about 1/3 throttle stick movement before the prop spins. Ideally, I would like to have it set-up where a little stick movement is enough to get the prop spinning at low RMP. Given the size of the"Dead band" I am also wondering how it will affect the operation of the brake.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Teo

f3a05

Look in the spin box settings to find the lowest setting for low throttle--it will probably be 1.00 msec.
Then,use the spin box connected to the Rx throttle channel. to set the low throttle travel adjust (orATV or whatever your Tx calls it) to read 1.00 msec---on my JR Tx it's around 130%.(You're OK with 100% high throttle on the Tx,and that will be around your 1.92 msec.)

Now switch on the Tx, and Rx, and connect up the motor battery with the throttle stick at its lowest point, and no trim.
The ESC will not arm yet(no beep).
Go to travel adjust on the throttle channel, and increase the downward travel, one unit at a time, until the beep.
This will be your low (est) throttle position--and the point at which any brake setting you have dialled in, will commence.
Leave the ESC curve as linear, and use the throttle curve function on the TX to adjust the motor's throttle response.
Most people find that the curve needs to be steeply upward at first (so that 50% at the Tx is around 70% output), and then sloping more gradually to 100% at the top.
The spin 99 usually has a small dead band at the very bottom of its travel,which may or may not bother you----one of my pattern friends prefers the OS ESC for that reason.

viva_peru

Hi - Thank you for the information. I will give it a try. Long, long, long time ago my first brushless controllers were the Jeti Advanced and they had the same issue. Back in those days I was not worried about using a brake, so I would cheat by using the throttle trim. Obviously, now I am interested in getting it right since I would like to be able to use the brake.

Thanks,

Teo

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

The only issue with using something different than a Jeti with a 28 pole Hacker, is that they don't work. So if you're running a 28 pole Hacker, stay away from OS and Castle ESC's.

viva_peru

I am actually using it on a 20 pole Pletenberg. The plane had a CC 80HV but the ESC failed after two years of use due to a blown capacitor. I will send it along to be repaired. I had good luck in the past with the Jeti so I decided to give it a try once again. Generally speaking, I believe that the Jeti is a better match to an outrunner than a Castle would. The Castle's work, but I think that the Jeti will give you slightly better power.

P.D. The programming is all done now and it seems to work. There is a small dead band between throttle off and throttle on but I will go ahead and fly it and see how it goes. Thank you for the help!

Jason Arnold

Hi Teo,

The ESC is not arming for safety reasons. Try lowering the initial fixed point from 1.14mS to 1.1mS. Once the ESC arms, you'll then be able to set things up properly with your TX to get a nice linear throttle response.

BTW I normally set the high point in the ESC to 1.8mS.

Cheers,
Jason.

OhD

I've written about this many times and I never can find it to pass on so I guess I'll have to try to say it again. First thing when setting up an electric plane is you must have a throttle cut. I assume your transmitter has a Throttle Cut function that disables the throttle stick when you have it in the cut position. Here is what I do. Set the Spin end points to 1.0 or 1.1 msec on the low end and 2.0 on the high end. Set your Throttle cut so the output is something much lower than the Spin low end point, like 0.9 msec. Set the throttle channel so full throttle gives you 2.0 msec and low gives you something just over the low setting, 1.05 or 1.15. You will fine tune the low end with throttle trim to get a good idle.

Turn on the transmitter first with the throttle stick at the low end and the Throttle Cut not cut. Turn on the receiver and the ESC should not arm as the pulse width is above your low end setting in the Spin. Turn the Throttle Cut on and the ESC will arm as the pulse width is below the low end setting. Turn the Throttle Cut off and the motor should start at idle. Go fly.

Some motor/ESC combinations will not start at idle so you might need to jog the throttle stick to start the motor but it should idle when you pull the stick back.

Once it is armed be very careful not to go from throttle cut to motor on if the throttle stick is not all the way down to the idle position.

​​​​​​​Jim O

viva_peru

Interesting. That is something that I will have to try.

Thanks

Teo

rm

My Feedback: (27)

Here ya go. This is Jims method...............

Set ESC to fixed initial point of 1.000 msec and end point to 2.0 msec

Transmitter Settings:
Turn off the Throttle cut and Idle down.

Set the throttle ATV and AFR to yield something close to 2.000 msec on the high end and 1.000
msec on the low. My high end Is 2.008 using the Jeti box to measure pulse width. (It doesn't
appear to require external power when measuring pulse width)

With the Throttle Cut and the Idle Down turned off, set the low end to slightly over 1.000 and then
fine tune it by setting the desired idle with the throttle trim. My throttle trim is set to yield
1.034msec

Set the Throttle Cut to 2%. When it is turned on my pulse width is 0.884 msec.

With the Throttle Cut off set the Idle Down off set to yield slightly less than 1.000 msec to activate
the brake. Mine is set to 61% to yield 0.985 msec.


Operation:

Turn Throttle Cut and Idle Down off.
Turn transmitter on.
Turn receiver on.
Check controls and pull throttle back.
Turn Throttle cut on. ESC will arm.
Turn throttle cut off and jog throttle stick to start motor.
Touch up idle. Should only need to do this once. It will be very repeatable.

Turn Idle Down on. It will apply the brake and stop the motor when the stick is pulled all the way
back. It will not completely stop the motor in the air.

Turn idle down off, start motor and go fly. Turn the idle down on to activate the brake with low
throttle when flying. I leave mine on except for the spins as I don’t want the motor to stop in the
air.

Some transmitters may not allow pulse widths of less than 1.0 msec so I would now suggest
setting the low end to 1.1 msec. The concept is still the same.

EHFAI

I would add one additional step - with the "Throttle Cut" on, set the throttle fail safe. Cycle the TX / RX off - on and verify the throttle pulse goes to the Throttle Cut level when the TX is switched off.

OhD

Thanks guys for keeping a better filing system than I do and for adding the fail safe check. I've been flying Jeti for awhile now and I follow the chatter on the official Jeti forum. One of the guys had a request for a "safety throttle lock". The idea is to not allow the motor to start when you turn the Throttle Cut switch off, unless the throttle stick is all the way back in low throttle. Of course once you advance the throttle after the motor starts you don't want it to shut down again until you turn the Throttle Cut switch on. Within two days there were two solutions from the smart guys, one that used a Lua app and a simpler solution that used two logic switches. In addition to "and" and "or" logic conditions Jeti provides what they call a "multi" condition that allows the throttle stick to emulate a three position switch with the switch position settable (< -97% in this case). I don't know if other radios can do this but if they can and someone is interested I'll try to explain the process.

I think it is a great idea and plan to put it in all my models.

​​​​​​​Jim O

rm

My Feedback: (27)

I see what u mean. I've got the basic 14 and tested this out today. Will have to download the logic switches and set this up.

I also stumbled upon being able to make changes in the mezon controllers wirelessly via the tx. Love the jeti system.

OhD

Yes, Jeti has done a great job of integrating their products much like Apple. And like Apple their stuff gets better with timely updates instead of getting obsolete. One is much more likely to fine tune his ESC if he can do it from the transmitter without disconnecting anything in the airplane, than he would if he had to connect a programming box or computer. Over the years I have found if it is easy I will do it. If not I tend to put up with what I've got.

​​​​​​​Jim O

TBone2008

hey guys, I got a Jeti spin 66 pro, and wanted to ask - how do I program the min max throttle positions wo a Jeti Box ?

rm

My Feedback: (27)

Gotta use the throttle stick.

Manual covers it
https://www.jetimodel.com/katalog/spin-66-pro.htm