Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, it sucks. That said, I have just received confirmation from Chris at F3A Unlimited on my order for a new one. You're method for installing CA hinges is the same as mine. One other key component IMHO, is that the slot isn't too wide. I think it should be a tight fit when you slide the hinges into the slots. Another thing, I find if I don't trim a little extra covering away around the slot it (the covering) can act as a dam, preventing the CA from wicking in as much as it should. These hinges looked small and very thin to me. I'll probably use some different ones than what comes with the kit.... assuming those hinges were what came with the kit.

Velco

I am starting the assembly and I must say what I read about scorpion 4035-250 on 10S and 18x10 is not comforting. It looks looks like it is just a matter of "when" and not "if" the magnets are going to fail with this combo, or I am (hopefully) wrong? Is there anything I can do with the motor now before I start flying? I will order some 17x10 TR and TGS and not fly with 18x10, at least when it is above 25C outside.

regrading what Hezik wrote, yes it is better to spin 18x12 on 8S instead of 17x10 on 10S but if this means having 8S packs just for one plane than I am fine with my 10S coz I use those on 3 other planes I have.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I would skip using the rear support and open up some cooling passages, both inlet and exhaust. I think heat has a lot to do with what has been going wrong, and the rear support may be adding unnecessary strain during certain maneuvers/attitudes.

I think the 17x10 will offer you some safety as well, should be a bit less power demanding and create less heat.

DronN

Received working ESC finally
I have just finished my Wind S, RTF weight came in at 3,960 grams, fairly light I guess, I set it up via BEC from main battery, will see, maybe I will add 2x 450mah batteries that work for receiver, to add weight.
Off to the field, I will report how it went this evening.
I hope someone will be able to shoot a small vid.

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Nice looking install of the electronics, DronN. I'm interested in your servos in the stab. Which servos did you use and was it difficult to put them in there like that?

DronN

Just came back home to charge packs up.
I did 4 flights, first two on 17x12 other 2 on 18x10, looking at data log I had max power on 17" was 1718w and on 18" 1807w, Motor case temperature was 50 degree Celsius and windings where 60. Outside temps are 25ish.
I don't know how I can pull 2+ KW out of it on 18" prop.
Lipo's I'm using are new, so I'll give them some care for first few cycles, then will try 19x12W that hezik is using, but I will not chop it yet to see the amps.
Although on 1700 watts it is powerful enough, but I would like to see more.
This plane definitely needs braking, I was flying it on 60% 0.6 delayed brake, and it was not nearly enough, I adjusted 0.3s and 80% now, will see what happens.

Wind is about 3-4m/s with bursts to 6, at current weight of my plane it is absolutely useless for F11 or P11, I think I'm at least 200 grams short in weight.

Snaps are really good, these first flights where done only for rate adjustments and CG, so I have no mixes in yet, but it sure will be a winner when I'll get it dialed in.
I flew 200mm CG for first flight, and for me it was too tail heavy, on 190 it is just about right for my taste

And I lost my poor canard :P I did Figure M and it just flew away Thanks god that was my hand-made, as original was way wrapped to use, so I still have a template.

DronN

I use Hitec HS 5245MG's in stabs, openings must be enlarged by about 1,2 milimeters to every side in order to make them fit.
I am really happy in the way they perform @7 volts. They are a little sloppy when they are much used, but pretty good while new though.

For rudder I use 7965 MG and on ailerons- low profiled 7775 MG

I have not finished with the install yet, as it was trial to see how plane flies, I will be adding 2 indoor batteries for receiver power, and put wire mesh on wires to make them look like on my other planes

hezik

The BLS succesors to the Futaba S9650 are also very nice.

About 4kg is indeed quite light to fly competition in winds.. you won't get it into the inverted reverse 2 1/4 spin, at least. not without cheating a little.

If you're flying at P11/F11 level, it does indeed need a brake. Also you might try to find a suitable wideblade prop for your engine, or a threeblade prop.

DronN

Hezik, indeed, Spin entry is one big cheat, it just doesn't stall, all it does is falls like a pancake with the wings level.
I hope I will be able to make it break good enough, I thought my angel speeded up too much, but wind is just way much faster when coming out of a loop.

Mine whistles a little in snaps, now I feel like flying a composite, like I always dreamed

DronN

Just came back from second flying session.
I almost completely dialed it in, all I have left to do, is to add alittle bit of right thrust, and it will be perfect.
Weather was awesome, no wind at all- in these conditions plane flew just perfect, I reset brake to 80% fast ramp and .3s delay, I feel this setting to be superb. So I guess for windy days I will have to add balast, and take it out in calm days like this evening was. Really great plane, figure M in P11 is sooo easy, really joy to watch I don;t even have to steer it much ,it just makes it clean

As video goes- some smartazz forgot camera on after posting pictures here, and discovered that battery was flat on the field :P I even took my girlfriend out to take video

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

One of the things about it that blew me away is that when you roll it into a bank it still flies completely straight.... as in it doesn't turn.... at all!
Never had a plane that flew like that before. It takes some getting use to.

xrboss

I have to agree totally. I flew it three times without a brake and thought I had a problem with my brake setting. Without the brake on it is like a rocket in downlines.

The best setup i have found was suggested by hezik. Cut down an APC 19x12 wide blade electric to under 17' and have the brake set in the ESC. I have my CC brake set to 90% and .4 sec delay. One schweet setup

john agnew

Guys

I am relative newcomer to serious electric flying. Could one of you explain exactly how the brake function works. i.e. is the propellor stalled in one position? Do you run with the motor idling or is the motor stopped when the throttle is closed? Any info appreciated.

John

DronN

I am new too, it acts like a glow motor on idle- doesn't allow to spin motor freely therefore creating more drag, than propeller that spine freely.
Electric is better for pattern competition because of ability to spin big props and have good down line braking.
I found it easier to fly electric airplane than glow, It's smoother, atleast feel like that.


I guess CPLR doesn't know that, and wins on YS engines

bedowinn

If you use the smaller prop you miss out on the larger prop's greater braking effect. Having said that, if you fly 10S and a 4035-250 you probably have to fly a smaller prop/load until the new motors are available. Or you can go with a 4035-210. Or an AXI 5320.

I do not use the rear support bearing anymore (probably should). It appears as though, perhaps, the rear support has to do with airframe integrity more so than helping the motor bearings. As I research mounting my Himax to the 2M Wind, it appears that folks running the inrunners use both the front mount and a rear support as a front mount by itself is structurally marginal.
Since I fly intermediate, I'm not doing alot of intentional snaps. So maybe I've been lucky not to overstress the airframe.

hezik

What a brake actually does, is highly dependant on the used ESC.

Basically the idea is that you don't want to stop the propellor, but want to keep it spinning in such a way that it generates the right 'braking force' to get your airplane to keep a constant speed (the one you like) in a downline.

Not all ESC's are capable of this, often it's a compromise. The 'Hacker Master Basic Opto 90' sebart recommends, doesnt have an elaborate brake, and none of the available settings really suited me. Basically it's the same ESC as the Hacker/Jeti Spin 99, but with simpler firmware. The Spin 99 has a more programmable brake.

Whichever ESC or brake used, the WindS 110 flies fine and is capable of just about everything you'd want from an F3A plane. Whitout a decent brake it might accelerate on downlines, but not in a dramatic way. It's a sweet ride!

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Think the rear support, without the bearing and free of the motor, would help?

Velco

Hi,

just wanted to ask you guys what timing you use on Scorpion motors? I am asking because I just checked the Scorpion site and they are suggesting timing of only 5 degrees for all their outrunner motors, even for 12-14 pole. Usually timing for 12-14 pole motor is 20-25 degrees. Reduced timing will reduce the power output, in this case roughly some 10%, but more importantly it will significantly reduce heating up of the motor! Does Scorpion know something without telling it openly to us?

In the mean time I have a problem, what to chose

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Castle Creations recommends keeping the timing on 'low' - both in the manaul and over the phone. I was told "if the timing is anything low, change it." The low setting is what they suggest for all outrunners.

So it's not just Scorpion.

Velco

If I am not mistaken this has been relatively recently changed because I remember checking some 6 months ago that Scorpion was suggesting the usual 20-25 degrees for timing.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I've installed the Scorpion 4035-210 (custom winding) and fired it up for test. Unfortunately it's insanely hot and I'm in the middle of moving, so having a tough time making it to the field until the next week or so.

Anyway, 60A, 6800rpm (assuming 14 poles), 2300W at 38V and APC 18x12 propeller. These are Rhino 4900mah 20C batteries, CC ICE HV80 ESC, and the logged data matches the meter I used for initial fire-up.

It seems to me that this is right where we should be at if running 10S.

huison2005

Hi , i just change to 8s setup with 4035-250 turning the APC 19X12, reading is 1900watts and 60amp draw ......
with 10s 18x10 getting 2000 over watts and draw 70 amp .. very-very good power , but the motor won't last long , i have tosted 2pcs 4035 !!

Will test fly it tomorrow ... see how is the result ...

smitty559

I just received my Sebart wind 110e from F3A unlimited what a nice plane and great quality.
My question is what are you using for elevator servos that fit in the stab without modifying the opening .
Hitech HS-5080 look like they would work,have anybody tried them?
Thinking of useing the Hacker A50-16L,APC 18X10 prop on 8s 5000 mah batt.
ESC either a Jeti spin 99 or a CC HV85 any sugestions or recomenditions.
Any suggestions you can offer would be appreciated.
smitty559

mdjohnson

Hi Sterling

JR 3421's drop right in without modification. They are a little pricy though at $90 each. I have them on the ailerons as well and so far they are doing the job beautifully.
I went with a JR8411 for the rudder. Probably a bit of overkill but it works flawlessly.

Enjoy the ride!! It is one great flying machine!


Cheers

MJ

smitty559

Hi Velco
We must have the same desires when it comes to planes,I have a Sebart Wind S110e and a 27% Hanger9 extra 260 also.
What equipment are you planing for the 110e.
I have a Axi 5330 F3A motor with a Castle 110 HV ESC 10s 5000s(2x5s turnigy 5000s) with Hitech HS 7985 MG servos
in the 27% Extra 260.
Thinking on using a Hacker A10-16L with Jeti spin 99 and 8s 5000s (2x4 turnigy 5000s) APC 18x10e prop on the Wind S 110e.
Still out on servos for the 110e,maybe JR 3421 in the stab and Hs 7775 MG on ailerons and HS 7985 MG on rudder.
Any suggestions or recomendations on any of this will be appreciated.
PS.I still need to get one of the Miss wind 50s Latter I hope.
Smitty