DronN

Velco

My still did not fly, but it will be a 10S setup with Scorpion 4035-250, Jeti Spin 99, and 17x 10 prop. I will use all around full size servos with InoLab HGD 650 HB on aile and elev and HGD 760 MG on the rudder.


Well, from now on flying should be much easier, got few tips from the master

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Dron, that is a sweet pic! Should be a computer background. Nice.

hezik

No man, that's a blasphemic picture.. this is an F3A plane and there are no F3A patterns which require to fly so low or above water

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Smitty,

I thought about putting small servos into the stab myself on the second plane. Then I remembered that I needed to ad tail weight on the first plane to get it to balance. For that reason, I decided that installing the full size servos in the tail was the better choice. Of course, the fact that I already has the full size servos figured into that decision too.

Wiz

smitty559

Has enyone out there used Hiteck HS 5085 servos in the elevators on the Wind 110.
Are they a drop in or are they too small?
Do you think they have enough torque?
Let me know what servos are a drop in without reworking the opening.

Thanks Smitty;

john agnew

Smitty

I used the Hitec HS 225 MG, it is a better servo and a drop in. I think the HS 5085 is too small.

John

DronN

John. no, 225 is not a drop-in servo, I used 5245 which are digital versions of 225. I had to enlarge openings by 1mm to every side- so 2mm in height and 2mm in lenght.

john agnew

DronN

That's strange, I just hit them with a hammer and they went right in!

Now I remember, I did have to enlage the opening but it only took a minute or two.

John

DronN

Yet it's not a drop in
Mine took about 10 minutes per stab as I wanted them to be as perfect as possible


By the way, I won Nationals with WindS this saturday! Yay
Although I liked the Angel on glow set-up better that day, but during some fun flying I managed to break both wings, so it was not so precise anymore

smitty559

What regulator do you use on your Wind 110e?

I will be running the Hacker A10-16L on 8S 2X5000 20c Zippy lipos.
APC-18x10 prop.
Hitec HS 7775mg on ailerons,JR DS3421in elevators and HS 7985mg on rudder.
Thanks Smitty:

DronN

I am using CC ICE HV 80 Amp ESC, bought it mainly because of good brake function which is actually working great and invested $$ have proved themselves

Well, your set-up regarding servos will be pretty much the same as mine except elev. servos. I am happy on how it all performs except the Turnigy motor, If I push it more than 1700 watts, it heats up pretty bad, I will be putting C50 in next season.

hezik

I think he didn't mean the ESC, but the Voltage Regulator to use a lipo as reciever battery?

I'm using an Emcotec DPSI Micro Dualbat:
http://shop.rc-electronic.com/e-vend...=6&c=541&p=541

With two zippy flightmax 500mAh 25C lipo's. Works like a charm.

In the past I used a single-bat VR, but the battery died on me in flight.. so now I use a dual bat version.

DronN

Oh, I'm using CC BEC Pro, a great little thing, set it to 7V and forgot about it, it just works
I love possibility to adjust output voltage in CC becs, that is what is making them worth the money.
Though I got non working Ice HV, that cost me not attending quite big championship in Lithuania, and big money and time loss.
After I got working one- it runs flawless for me.

smitty559

DronN

Congratulations on your Nats win!!.
The Wind 110e has to be a pretty good plane for that,and of course a (good) pilot also.
Thanks for the information on the BEC.
I think I will get the CC BEC Pro also.
Are you running one lipo or dual lipos on the CC BEC Pro?
What motor, Battery and prop were you using?

PS. thanks Hezik for the info

hezik

Be adviced that a lot of RC equipment (like Futaba FASST receivers) dont dig 7v..

mdjohnson

Smitty:

FWIW I am running a Jaccio regulator on an 1100mAh 2S lipo. I have the 5.7V version with the arming switch and so far it is bullet proof. From Central Hobbies:

http://www.centralhobbies.com/Electr...Switchhar.html

I attended two pattern contests in southern California last spring and talked to a few "hotshoes" on BEC vs regulator. I was all set to pull the trigger on the Castle Pro and was convinced the BEC was the way to go but during those two contests, as fate would have it,I personally witnessed three, yes three main battery failures which would have been a total airframe loss had all of them not used a seperate battery and regulator.In all three cases the motor went dead and all were able to make a deadstick landing with no damage. Just make sure you strap down the flight pack battery like you do the main battery......... : )

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers

MJ

hezik

Once I had the drive battery bail on me.. would have cost me my plane.

On this size airplanes, I wouldn't use the BEC. The WindS already has a low wing loading as it is, it's hard enough to get a decent stall out of it, so making it lighter will only make it fly less good. I'd say the ideal weight is around 4100~4200 grams.

First of, the terminology.. there's a BEC and a VR. Often VR's are incorrectly called BEC.

A BEC is built in to the ESC and uses the drive battery, by definition. Anything that doesn't use the drive battery, isn't a BEC. BEC stands for 'battery elimination circuit', in other words, a BEC eliminates the need for a seperate receiver battery.

Both BEC and VR's come roughly in two tastes; lineair and switched. Lineair simply dissipates excess power as heat, switched doesn't.

So suppose you have an 8 cell pack, delivering a nominal 30 volts. Suppose you want to use 6v for a receiver. Then you'd have to lose 24 volts. Say receiver/servo's pull 3A maximum all together (ie in a snaproll). A liniear VR would then have to dissipate 24 * 3 = 72 Watts, more heat than your average soldering iron!

That's why all ESC's for these kind of packs have a switching regulator. What these do is a lengthy story, but sufficient to say these systems produce far less heat.

However.. if you're flying you'll get a band of about 10v of your drivebat, in which I mean the drive voltage will vary, depending on the engine load.. unloaded you'll have 33.6volts, but under full load an when almost empty, this could drop to 24 volts. One can imagine this is hard for a switching bec, and causes fluctuations in the powersupply. Also the older gens switching becs had a lot of noise on the power output. Especially 2.4Ghz receivers can't handle this, this is why some people use a big condensator parralel to the VR (Assan even includes them in the set you buy).

Another downside is the fact that your ESC will have an extra heatsource on board. Whichever type of BEC is integrated, it'll always produce heat.

Last downside.. if your drive battery fails for whatever reason, your plane is gone.

In a weight-critical application I would use a modern ESC with BEC, but on the WindS I wouldn't. It's not needed and a seperate VR add's extra safety.

Besides using a dualbat VR (using 2 seperate packs as supply), it's also possibel to use a single-bat VR and use the drive battery as backup. Some VR/ESC combo's will allow this without further adjustments (just plug both into the receiver and you're done) but there are also special pieces of electronics for sale for this purpose.

It's a personal matter, there's no right or wrong in this. Every angle is arguably correct. If you use a bec, sure if the drive battery fails, you have a problem. If you use a single bat VR your receiver battery might fail, causing the same problems. When using a dual bat power supply, the VR itself might fail, and so on. As long as there are still SPOV's in the chain ('single point of faillure'), it'll never be 100% failproof.

Velco

The best would be to have both, a VR and BEC! A friend has designed a circuit where the main power supplier is 2S LiPo through a VR and in the case this stops working than BEC is back in the game. He is using this on a 4m glider running on 6S Lipo. Well for 8-10S F3A application there is no ESC with built in BEC but I do not see the reason why a (HV) VR can not be made to work with the same piece of electronics. In that case the systems usually runs on a small 2S LiPo through a VR and if something goes wrong with that battery power is then supplied by the main power bat, single or dual.

smitty559

Have anyone used or have any information on the DigiSwitch from PowerBox Systems
They recomend for the 110e.
The fuse has a opening already cut for one of these.
All the members of the Italian National F3A team use the DigiSwitch in there models.

mdjohnson

Smitty

I myself have not had anything to do with the PowerBox Digiswitch but here is a thread with a little info:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_97...tm.htm#9804721

A quick Google search may be in order as well.

I thinkthe DigiSwitchwould be a very good optionand cost may be a factor, but don't know for sure. Hezik is absolutely right...........this is a personal decision and the reliability of a machine is only as strong as the weakest link. All systems to my thinking have flaws but I still like the VR that is independant of the main battery. It has worked in my experience......so far!!

Hope it all helps


MJ

Roberto B.

I use the Digiswitch on my miss wind 50 with two 500mah lipo. Overall weight is 100gr of pure peace of mind.

Velco

I am currently using Sensor switch (a digi switch with 5-10A VR and 2 batteries ) on my 27% Extra and I plan to use a single bat Digiswitch on my Wind 110. On the Extra it is working perfectly! I got them from HK some time ago.

DronN

At this point I have had no time to put additional 2x 2s 450 packs in my wind, so BEC works off main batts. In no wind conditions my WindS flies perfect, in windy conditions I would rather see 300 grams more weight than I have now (3960g). This season is over for F3A competition flying, but I might try to make battery holders on wing tube to add those batteries and ballast, yet make it removable.

Smitty,
For power I use Turnigy 270kv motor on 18x10
Although it flies, but I would like to be able pull more than 1650W out of it, but I am not because it overheats, so I will be replacing it. I would really recommend you to go Scorpion 310kv or Hacker 270kv option, you will be able to fully enjoy this plane. On turnigy, to get a nice vertical snap you have to go downwind full throttle.. I hope you get what I am pointing to
For ESC- Ice HV 80 with data logger.
For batteries- Turnigy Nano-tech 4500 8s, I have 4 sets, to this point (every has 7 flights on it) they work good, so I am looking forward to their real lifespan.
For competition flying I will be using Hyperion G3 cells, and Turnigy's are mostly for practicing.

I think I will go C50 route on clipped 19x12W, as Turnigy just can't keep up with it. On 17x12 it was already on it's limit- 65c degree case temp

blazer1023

All,

I use the following dual electrical system in my Wind110 and will be putting it in a new Wind S Pro. It comes from Ed Alt at Tech-Aero Designs. I use two Thunder Power TP850-2SJP30 batteries and have never had any problems. Ed is very well respected in the Pattern community and many big name pilots use his equipment. His web site is at. http://www.tech-aero.net
I've been at contest when there have been electrical switch failures, main battery packs detaching and coming out planes and other issues that I never have to worry about with this system. There is detailed engineering documentation on his web site explaining the process and equipment.

Jerry Smith

I would highly recommend the following