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  1. #1726

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Moved the Rudder servo to the back...Say bye bye to the LEAD!! wooohooooo



  2. #1727

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Good deal! Keep us posted on your progress, initial flights, etc.......

  3. #1728

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Need some advice guys

    In the wings the previous owner used hitec HS 5485 HB servos  It's a 89 oz servo.  I'd like to upgrade but it's not in the budget right now.  I will only be trying Sportsman class.  Will these servos work for me.  I'm sure they will work I just want to make sure they wont fail me 

    Also, I want to go all 4-40 rods and dubro swivel ball links.  All fine and dandy BUT, I have to drill out the fiberglass or whatever its made from control horn on the control surface.  Makes for thinner material around the hole.  Can I drill the hole lower and adjust on the servo horn for it being straight?  I already have t tone down the rates big time because of too much throw

    Thanks

  4. #1729

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Drilling the hole lower will INCREASE your throw, not decrease it. Try moving the pivot on your servo arm in.


    Also, why the 4-40 pushrods? Mine has been fine with the standard pushrod gear in the kit.
    Go knife edge your cub!

  5. #1730

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Think I'll leave it alone

    The servos?

  6. #1731
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    You'll be fine with those servos. I started flying pattern planes this size with the JR DS821, which is basically the same amount of torque. It is a good, precise servo with plenty of power for the ailerons. Probably a little slow for me now, but I would not hesitate to use one for a backup in this plane.

    I did a lot of similar modifications to my plane - titanium turnbuckles with ball links, lots of other things. What I found is that it was really a waste of time, money, and brain power. The plane flies great right out of the box, that's half the beauty of a Sebart plane.

    This is a hobby, so if that's what you really enjoy, then go for it. But in hind sight, I would have had more practice, less problems, and more money in my pocket if I just flew the plane the way it was meant to be flown. That being said, if you really want to change hardware, you can find ball links with smaller screws, and maybe only have to shave the control horns.

    I did the exercise of drilling a lower hole in the composite horn of a different plane, for the same reason. It works, but I've never been happy with the results. It looks like crap, it's difficult to get both sides to be exact (thus affecting geometry similarity), and changes the angles of the setup. I believe it is better to use the existing holes, enlarging them slightly if need be, or using a different control horn all together. Just my own thoughts from my own experience
    Joe Marri
    Enjoying all things aviation.

  7. #1732

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    THanks

    IthinkI will take your advice

    Ijust wanna fly

    ORIGINAL: gaRCfield

    You'll be fine with those servos. I started flying pattern planes this size with the JR DS821, which is basically the same amount of torque. It is a good, precise servo with plenty of power for the ailerons. Probably a little slow for me now, but I would not hesitate to use one for a backup in this plane.

    I did a lot of similar modifications to my plane - titanium turnbuckles with ball links, lots of other things. What I found is that it was really a waste of time, money, and brain power. The plane flies great right out of the box, that's half the beauty of a Sebart plane.

    This is a hobby, so if that's what you really enjoy, then go for it. But in hind sight, I would have had more practice, less problems, and more money in my pocket if I just flew the plane the way it was meant to be flown. That being said, if you really want to change hardware, you can find ball links with smaller screws, and maybe only have to shave the control horns.

    I did the exercise of drilling a lower hole in the composite horn of a different plane, for the same reason. It works, but I've never been happy with the results. It looks like crap, it's difficult to get both sides to be exact (thus affecting geometry similarity), and changes the angles of the setup. I believe it is better to use the existing holes, enlarging them slightly if need be, or using a different control horn all together. Just my own thoughts from my own experience

  8. #1733

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I'll be the first to admit that I get carried away on my linkages sometimes. But like Joe said we all have our own way of doing things and...what makes us happy...what we're comfortable with...etc. I'm sure the stock hardware right out of the box works great.

  9. #1734
    Bill Clark's Avatar
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: UltraBob

    I'll be the first to admit that I get carried away on my linkages sometimes.
    I have that problem too although its more like an obssesion. My budy told me "your the only onr I know that takes 3 months to build an ARF". I'm still not sure how to take that
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  10. #1735

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Geez Bill...suddenly I'm feeling OK about myself...Thanks!

  11. #1736

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    OK Bill, hat looks like some cool bling. Where did you get it all?

    Might be something I do for next winter hehehehehe
    Well the Wind gets it's RE-Maiden today with her new owner..


    ORIGINAL: Bill Clark


    ORIGINAL: UltraBob

    I'll be the first to admit that I get carried away on my linkages sometimes.
    I have that problem too although its more like an obssesion. My budy told me "your the only onr I know that takes 3 months to build an ARF". I'm still not sure how to take that

  12. #1737

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Jumpin' Jehosophat!

    That's bling!


    Does it work better or weigh less than the stock gear?
    Go knife edge your cub!

  13. #1738
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

     The parts were made on my machines and the objective was to have near perfect linkage geometry, i.e. mirrored pos/neg throws and servo-surface ratios with max resolution so I would have nothing to blame for my flying. I never tried the stock setup but the plane feels good with forward cg and positive incidence . I will be making this type of stuff for a dealer in the future and may offer these parts for the W110 too

  14. #1739

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    The RE_Maiden went very well

    I can see what you guys mean about it feeling floaty. Ialso have a 2 meter Nitro pattern plane and that sucker is a rock! It's an old Temptation. I was hoping the Wind would replace it. I think maybe with more practice?

  15. #1740

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Keep flying. After a while you'll turn your nose up at the old temptation
    Go knife edge your cub!

  16. #1741
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110



    Mine is solid as a rock at 4,5kg. I will shave 100g just by removing the lead from the back and by using a 600mAh RX batt instead of 1000mAh batt.



    Velco


  17. #1742
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I finally bought the Hacker A50-16L V2 for this plane, after 3 different motors, this is by far the best, I really like it now.
    All I have to do now is try to remember F13 and P13

    Weight 4 kg, no receiver batt.
    Prop 19x12W cut down to 17", front of the spinner is cut off for cooling
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  18. #1743
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I like the plane the best with my Hacker also - I got the 14L though (300kV) - turning an 18x10 at first but I'm going to switch to 18x12 before I fly it again. I think with the V2 hackers, it's easier to use the 16L and the recommended 18x12. If an older Hacker, I would just open up the cooling passage and still use the same prop.

    Lablover - what motor/prop are you running? Also, if you turn your throws way down, especially the elevator (mine are at about 7degrees on ail/ele) it will feel a little less floaty. I think part of the floatiness is how fast it pivots about the pitch axis. It feels floatier to me with lighter weight (just switched from 10S to 8S), but really not that bad, unless I'm just used to it. Rolls are a lot better so it makes up for it.
    Joe Marri
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  19. #1744

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Hey Joe

    I got the HAcker A50-16L and 18x12 prop I'll try the rates you recomend. Iknow my low rates are higher than what you recomend. Yes, it felt very twitchy

    Just waiting for another good weather day. WHat's the benefit of the new V2 hacker?


    ORIGINAL: gaRCfield

    I like the plane the best with my Hacker also - I got the 14L though (300kV) - turning an 18x10 at first but I'm going to switch to 18x12 before I fly it again. I think with the V2 hackers, it's easier to use the 16L and the recommended 18x12. If an older Hacker, I would just open up the cooling passage and still use the same prop.

    Lablover - what motor/prop are you running? Also, if you turn your throws way down, especially the elevator (mine are at about 7degrees on ail/ele) it will feel a little less floaty. I think part of the floatiness is how fast it pivots about the pitch axis. It feels floatier to me with lighter weight (just switched from 10S to 8S), but really not that bad, unless I'm just used to it. Rolls are a lot better so it makes up for it.

  20. #1745

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Had a great day with the Wind.... Five flights... Finally getting it dialed in. Tweaked the differential on the ailerons and elevator and I'm happy with those now. Changed props...now running an APC 18x10. Had a 17x12 and while zoomy and fast it just wasn't suitable when it came to flying the actual pattern. Think I'll go out in the morning again and practice, practice, practice.......

  21. #1746
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Hacker V2 has a fan built in. Its also a little lighter. I think you can buy the fan as an add-on for the older motors but not sure. They sell them at aero-model.com. Some guys were saying it was running hot with the older motor and 18x12, but it shouldn't. I think its a lack of cooling. These motors can handle some serious abuse. My higher kv motor is basically cold after a flight with 18x10, but I opened up the cooling passages a little, and doubled the exit hole size (rectangles now instead of triangles). My first motor ran hot, nothing has been hot since, except when I used a rear mount on the neu without allowing for cooling through the mount. Some spacers fixed that.
    Joe Marri
    Enjoying all things aviation.

  22. #1747

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I've been thinking about your incidence adjusters Bill Clark, how do they work considering the wings fit into a recess in the fuselage?
    Go knife edge your cub!

  23. #1748
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110



    balsa with epoxy coat and paint and held in with spray adhesive

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  24. #1749

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Bill,

    Unusual spinner you have there in post #1734.
    TruTurn has also now special cooling electric spinners, Turbo-Cool.
    http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...ics130&maxp=30

    /Bo

  25. #1750
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I'm just tinkering, Bo . I did see the Tru-Turn. no surprise its a nice piece. Imay do some more testing with the data loggeron its effectivness once the hot weather comes (its pretty much here). coming down with a 100deg F can/120 deg core tempat the moment


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