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  1. #1826

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    speaking of motor overheating, was that ever an issue with the way the hacker motor was installed behind a 'firewall' instead of in front of it such as the later designed mythos 125 has the motor placed? Looks like the mythos would be easier to get air force through it that the Wind's style of motor mount.


    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=117
    lucky macy

  2. #1827
    Zeeb's Avatar
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy

    What are the typical root causes for a good quality motor, in this case a hacker a50-16L v2.1, to be running fine for 5 minutes then just burn up? Nothing was new in the scenario except maybe running longer at full power without throttling back as often. It was nice and chilly outside. The Phoenix ESC just beeped 4 times when the motor shut down. I could smell some electrical smoke.

    I need to replace the motor. Just curioius, is there a Hacker motor inspection/repair location in the USA? Any opinions on a different brand that's pretty much interchangeable and suitable for a Sebart Wind 110?
    The importer/distributor for Hacker in the USA is Aero-Model in Arizona, Tempe I believe? Contact them about repairing your motor.

    https://www.aero-model.com/

    While I'm no expert with this electric stuff, I've been doing a lot of reading/research since I just started playing with bigger electic powered models including a Wind S Pro and based on what I've seen in the forums it does not have a Castle ESC.

    I bought a complete model from a friend and it has an issue with the Castle ICE 100 ESC in it running a Hacker A40-12S so I have a different brand ESC for it now as well. I also have another pattern model about the size of your Wind 110 using the Hacker A50-12S and it has a different brand ESC.

    There is a Castle support forum in the Vendor area of RCGroups and that's where I've seen lots of issues posted, mostly the heli guys but the problems and fires even where folks seem to have a good setup are not something I want to chance. Castle is suppose to be good about warranty issues and replacing defective controllers but they seem to take quite awhile to get it done from the reports I've seen online.
    Zeeb

  3. #1828

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Another general question for this group, if you don't mind.

    I want to buy the following batteries which come with 5.5 mm bullets already on them.
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4S1P_30C_.html

    They need to be combined in series so I'm using the following Deans series adapter

    http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore..._image&pID=312

    so the dilemna is to figure out how bridge the connector gap.

    If I get the following adapter will that work? Are the T connectors the same thing as Deans?
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_bag_.html

    Are those 5.5 connectors really meant to be installed directly batteries and pulled on and off constantly as is or is there a plastic case you area really supposed to insert into first?

    Or does nobody do that and they just cut off the bullets and solder on Deans females or whatever else they really want to use? Just trying to cut down on the solder work myself...
    lucky macy

  4. #1829

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    You dont require any additional components to run them in series.

    Just use the bullets to jump the + to - on each pack then the remaining + and - run to the ESC.

    Bullets also handle more current than Deans.

    Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over ?

  5. #1830

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: Flyer88

    You dont require any additional components to run them in series.

    Just use the bullets to jump the + to - on each pack then the remaining + and - run to the ESC.

    Bullets also handle more current than Deans.

    Interesting. PM sent.
    lucky macy

  6. #1831

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    ORIGINAL: Zeeb


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy

    What are the typical root causes for a good quality motor, in this case a hacker a50-16L v2.1, to be running fine for 5 minutes then just burn up? Nothing was new in the scenario except maybe running longer at full power without throttling back as often. It was nice and chilly outside. The Phoenix ESC just beeped 4 times when the motor shut down. I could smell some electrical smoke.

    I need to replace the motor. Just curioius, is there a Hacker motor inspection/repair location in the USA? Any opinions on a different brand that's pretty much interchangeable and suitable for a Sebart Wind 110?
    The importer/distributor for Hacker in the USA is Aero-Model in Arizona, Tempe I believe? Contact them about repairing your motor.

    https://www.aero-model.com/

    While I'm no expert with this electric stuff, I've been doing a lot of reading/research since I just started playing with bigger electic powered models including a Wind S Pro and based on what I've seen in the forums it does not have a Castle ESC.


    I bought a complete model from a friend and it has an issue with the Castle ICE 100 ESC in it running a Hacker A40-12S so I have a different brand ESC for it now as well. I also have another pattern model about the size of your Wind 110 using the Hacker A50-12S and it has a different brand ESC.

    There is a Castle support forum in the Vendor area of RCGroups and that's where I've seen lots of issues posted, mostly the heli guys but the problems and fires even where folks seem to have a good setup are not something I want to chance. Castle is suppose to be good about warranty issues and replacing defective controllers but they seem to take quite awhile to get it done from the reports I've seen online.

    While Castle has had issues in the past ( like most ESC's ) they have very much ironed out the problems. I have two Castle 120HV running with excellent results. That being said I also have some Hobby King Brain 100HV's working very well also.

    For fine tuning and being able to track data....I would go with Castle because they are very programmable if you know what you are doing.




    Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over ?

  7. #1832

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: 1bwana1

    Scorpion motors work great on this plane.Β* Both of the ones I have flown are using Scorpion.Β* They have great support as well, just give Lucien at Scorpion a call.Β* You will see that he will spend time giving you information prior to the sale, and this attitude extends to warranty issues as well.

    Why not just use the recommended hacker? Scorpion really better than hacker? What's the point?
    lucky macy

  8. #1833
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

     my experience with the larger hacker outrunners is that they run hotter and are slightly less efficient compared to a comparable scorpion. on the positive side the hacker has a large bearing in the assembley which means it probably wont ever need bearings. its also a bolt in with no mods needed. the scorpions I have used usually are ready for bearings after 100 flights depending on how smooth of a prop is on it. if you have friends in japan the futaba 5065 300kv puts the hacker and scorp to shame

  9. #1834

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy

    Another general question for this group, if you don't mind.

    I want to buy the following batteries which come with 5.5 mm bullets already on them.
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...4S1P_30C_.html

    They need to be combined in series so I'm using the following Deans series adapter

    http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore..._image&pID=312

    so the dilemna is to figure out how bridge the connector gap.

    If I get the following adapter will that work? Are the T connectors the same thing as Deans?
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_bag_.html

    Are those 5.5 connectors really meant to be installed directly batteries and pulled on and off constantly as is or is there a plastic case you area really supposed to insert into first?

    Or does nobody do that and they just cut off the bullets and solder on Deans females or whatever else they really want to use? Just trying to cut down on the solder work myself...
    Hi Lucky,
    I have used these packs in my wind for hundreds of flights with a CC HV80 and Hacker motor.
    I change the battery connectors to EC5s, it will handle the current, cheap and easy to solder. I made a Y harness to connect the packs together.
    You can purchase a harness or make your own.
    cheers


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  10. #1835

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: Bill Clark

    Β*my experience with the larger hacker outrunners is that they run hotter and are slightly less efficient compared to a comparable scorpion. on the positive side the hacker has a large bearing in the assembleyΒ*which means it probably wont ever need bearings. its also a bolt in with no mods needed. the scorpions I have used usually are ready for bearings after 100 flights depending on how smooth of a prop is on it. if you have friends in japan the futaba 5065 300kv puts the hacker and scorp to shame
    Is it the collective experience that in this Wind 110 the motor gets especially hot and that's extra bad news for the Hacker? I bought a used wind with a brand new motor. It burned out pretty quickly. Obviously something happened to the previous motor as well so I have to buy a new motor and am reluctant to pull the trigger on the third Hacker for the same airframe. I drilled extra holes around the motor mounting holes in the firewall PRIOR to the last motor burning out so not I'm stumped. I bought a new and different model ESC just to eliminate the current one as a possible suspect. Did anyone do surgery to just rear mount the hacker and completely open up the existing firewall? Obviously on Sebart's latest designs he mounts the motors from the rear with the entire motor upen for better airflow exposure.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=117

    What "more heat tolerant" make/model of Hacker alternative motor would be best for this plane if I wanted one that I could use not satisfatorily on 8s then reuse if I wanted to later in a 2m plane using 10s? That'd be the ticket!
    lucky macy

  11. #1836

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy
    Is it the collective experience that in this Wind 110 the motor gets especially hot and that's extra bad news for the Hacker?
    Hi Lucky,

    I ran a A50-16L V1 for hundreds of flights, the only difference was the shorter shaft, as far as I know.

    Some data from the CC HV80 with an 18x10 electric prop.
    Max Current: 57A
    Max Watts: 1760W
    Max RPM: 7500
    Motor temp was 50-60C even in summer.

    I did not make any changes to the air intakes. I used the stock back support.

    cheers


  12. #1837

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: xrboss


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy
    Is it the collective experience that in this Wind 110 the motor gets especially hot and that's extra bad news for the Hacker?
    Hi Lucky,

    I ran a A50-16L V1 for hundreds of flights, the only difference was the shorter shaft, as far as I know.

    Some data from the CC HV80 with an 18x10 electric prop.
    Max Current: 57A
    Max Watts: 1760W
    Max RPM: 7500
    Motor temp was 50-60C even in summer.

    I did not make any changes to the air intakes. I used the stock back support.

    cheers

    I appreciate the info. How/where on the motor are you measuring motor temp? What mah and C rating packs are you using? For this motor and that prop combination then, is it worth it to get 30c over 20 or 25C? Seems in theory 20C should be plenty :-)
    lucky macy

  13. #1838

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Guys I have been running the older 50/65/270 Turnigy for the past two years.

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html

    It has been a great motor !

    Ive had it propped any where from 16 x10 to 19 x 12 and could go to a 20 if needed.

    Current set-up is 18 x 12

    This is an excellent motor for the Wind 110.

    I have it in a Helios 90 and find that it has an excellent run time on 8s

    I could probably run a 50/65/430 on 6s and save almost 3/4 pound of battery.

    I'm going to try that this springs and see what kind of run time I get .

    I love this motor !!
    Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over ?

  14. #1839

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    ORIGINAL: Flyer88

    Guys I have been running the older 50/65/270 Turnigy for the past two years.

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html

    It has been a great motor !

    Ive had it propped any where from 16 x10 to 19 x 12 and could go to a 20 if needed.

    Current set-up is 18 x 12

    This is an excellent motor for the Wind 110.

    I have it in a Helios 90 and find that it has an excellent run time on 8s

    I could probably run a 50/65/430 on 6s and save almost 3/4 pound of battery.

    I'm going to try that this springs and see what kind of run time I get .

    I love this motor !!
    Do you happen to know if it's hole patterns match up with the Hacker's since it has to retrofit that? And by that I also mean that the Hacker is rear supported in my plane and would this 'drop fit' right in from and back too?

    A picture or two could really help here.
    lucky macy

  15. #1840

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    I'll pull her off the wall and try to get some pics.

    But it does mount with an X-mount on the back.

    I don't know why guys design planes with a collet mount design.

    I think it's crazy to hang a prop off a motor producing 3HP on a friction fit collet.

    I like bolting things down !!

    Just my two cents.
    Why is there never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over ?

  16. #1841

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy


    ORIGINAL: xrboss


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy
    Is it the collective experience that in this Wind 110 the motor gets especially hot and that's extra bad news for the Hacker?
    Hi Lucky,

    I ran a A50-16L V1 for hundreds of flights, the only difference was the shorter shaft, as far as I know.

    Some data from the CC HV80 with an 18x10 electric prop.
    Max Current: 57A
    Max Watts: 1760W
    Max RPM: 7500
    Motor temp was 50-60C even in summer.

    I did not make any changes to the air intakes. I used the stock back support.

    cheers

    I appreciate the info. How/where on the motor are you measuring motor temp? What mah and C rating packs are you using? For this motor and that prop combination then, is it worth it to get 30c over 20 or 25C? Seems in theory 20C should be plenty :-)
    I was using the ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 4S1P 20C packs. I tried 25C packs and did not feel any performance difference.

    I used a Turnigy Infrared Thermometer, from HK. Just point and test, checked for the hotest part.



  17. #1842
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: luckymacy


    ORIGINAL: Bill Clark

    my experience with the larger hacker outrunners is that they run hotter and are slightly less efficient compared to a comparable scorpion. on the positive side the hacker has a large bearing in the assembleywhich means it probably wont ever need bearings. its also a bolt in with no mods needed. the scorpions I have used usually are ready for bearings after 100 flights depending on how smooth of a prop is on it. if you have friends in japan the futaba 5065 300kv puts the hacker and scorp to shame
    Is it the collective experience that in this Wind 110 the motor gets especially hot and that's extra bad news for the Hacker? I bought a used wind with a brand new motor. It burned out pretty quickly. Obviously something happened to the previous motor as well so I have to buy a new motor and am reluctant to pull the trigger on the third Hacker for the same airframe. I drilled extra holes around the motor mounting holes in the firewall PRIOR to the last motor burning out so not I'm stumped. I bought a new and different model ESC just to eliminate the current one as a possible suspect. Did anyone do surgery to just rear mount the hacker and completely open up the existing firewall? Obviously on Sebart's latest designs he mounts the motors from the rear with the entire motor upen for better airflow exposure.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=117

    What "more heat tolerant" make/model of Hacker alternative motor would be best for this plane if I wanted one that I could use not satisfatorily on 8s then reuse if I wanted to later in a 2m plane using 10s? That'd be the ticket!
    I went to great lengths to cool my set up
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_79...70/key_/tm.htm# post 1734
    I cut the firewall to line up with the openings in the front of the motor like you mentioned, made the spinner and sealed it to the cowl (foam tape). you can barely see in the pic a carbon band around the front of the motor. this seals the gap on the motor between the stationary front mount section and the rotating can. what all this did was make sure the air that went through the spinner was forced to go through the inside of the motor (where the heat is made). it was alot of work but I was rewarded with a motor that comes down with a can temp of 100-105deg in 90deg weather. I belive the futaba motor is very efficient so that may be part of it though. it pulls 62 amps on a 18x10 xoar with 30 more kv than the hackerand flys 9 min of intermediate on a 20c 3800 8s pack with still some left

  18. #1843
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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    There are thousands of Wind 110's in the world flying with Hacker motors. If 18x12 seems hot, switch to 18x10. The problem is not the plane/motor combo.
    Joe Marri
    Enjoying all things aviation.

  19. #1844

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110


    ORIGINAL: xrboss

    ORIGINAL: hezik


    If you're flying at P11/F11 level, it does indeed need a brake. Also you might try to find a suitable wideblade prop for your engine, or a threeblade prop.
    I have to agree totally. I flew it three times without a brake and thought I had a problem with my brake setting. Without the brake on it is like a rocket in downlines.

    The best setup i have found was suggested by hezik. Cut down an APC 19x12 wide blade electric to under 17' and have the brake set in the ESC. I have my CC brake set to 90% and .4 sec delay. One schweet setup

    What's an acceptable way to 'cut down' and finish an APC prop so that when done it's still safe to use, balanced and the tips are still low drag, low noise?

    I'd like to hear some detail about how you guys are doing that 'correctly' before I'd try it.

    Also, if you go with the stock Hacker c50 16L V2.1 motor using a CC HV80 ESC and 8s setup, what ESC settings and props are you using to maximize braking?
    lucky macy

  20. #1845

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    RE: Sebart Wind 110

    Has anyone reverse mounted the recommended V2 of the Hacker motor? Is this a really bad idea? It looks like the motor may be designed to have airflow in only one direction, the way the plans show the engine mounted. Anyone know for sure? I had to cut out a very large circle in the firewall which I think was previously repaired by the prior owner because it was extremely thick and lined on both sides of the firewall with carbon fiber. It looks like the firewall was a repair job as the new holes they put in did NOT end up centering the engine so it was like they lost their original mounting holes and wrongly guess where the new ones should go. I was thinking of putting in lite ply at the first bulkhead behind the firewall and just reverse mounting the Hacker. So instead of the first bulkhead being for the rear support, it will be beefed up and where the motor will now actually be bolted on to.
    lucky macy

  21. #1846

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    hello gang. i am starting to research components for my "in transit" wind 110...and.... i have some questions
    i would like to know the equivalent to the suggested jr ds8401 and jr ds3201 servos. have these been replaced by an upgraded version??? i cannot find much info on these puppies.
    is the recommend hacker a50-16L hacker on an 8s setup the way to go???
    and
    after reading a gazillion posts, i see there may be some CG issues. is it best to mount the rudder servo in the tail???


    TIA
    rbt in milwaukee!

  22. #1847

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    The servo designations are for the European market. I believe the 8401 is roughly equal to an 8411 and the 3201 is roughly equal to a 3421.
    Dave Lockhart
    Team JR Americas, Thunder Power, Castle Creations, F3A Unlimited, NeuMotors, Team Contra, Central Hobbies, Tech Aero

  23. #1848

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    I just got my Wind yesterday , I'm going to use a Hacker A50-12L on 6s 4100's with a 18x10 APC Castle BEC Pro and Castle Edge 100 , she is a beautiful airplane hope she flies like she looks

  24. #1849

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    at 4100mah it'll be light but wont have a very good flight time.

    Mine used to run 5000 8s and would burn a pack in about 8 minutes.
    Go knife edge your cub!

  25. #1850

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    I think 4100 should be more than enough to fly sportsman sequence 401


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