shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Anyone using the manual throttle endpoint setup on the HV85? If so, what endpoint settings or pulse widths are you using? It might save me some time screwing around with it. I prefer to use the preset endpoints rather than the auto calibration. I'm running the Neu 1513.

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Steve,

This is how I set up mine:

Turn on the transmitter (I am using Futaba, but this method should work for other brands also), and go to the endpoint adjustment on the throttle channel. Bring both the high and low side endpoints down to 50% or lower - this is to make sure ATV is within either WOT or idle position. Put throttle stick in the full position (WOT), plug in the battery pack (don't worry, the motor won't start), and then slowly increase the high side endpoint (ATV) towards 100% until you hear a single tone. You can increase ATV another 1 or 2% to make sure it is well past the WOT. Bring the throttle stick to the bottom position (idle) and increase the endpoint (ATV) until you hear the ESC arm. Again, consider increase ATV another 1 or 2% to ensure it is well past the idle endpoint. Unplug the battery and then plug back in to make sure everything is functioning properly. You should be good to go after that.

Kevin

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks Kevin,

I set my controller to manual endpoint by using the Castle Link programming interface. There is no way to set an endpoint using the Castle Link so it must be done when I fly it. Next time I go to fly it I will use your method. I assume then that it will always remember the endpoint and that I won't have to keep setting the endpoint each time I fly it.

Steve

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Yes, always use manual endpoints. Set the low end travel so that you need to bring the trim down on the throttle to arm the esc and move the trim back up to get it turning at idle. The top end you can set the travel so the red led light comes on to signify you are at full throttle. I set mine so the light comes on one click of throttle before full stick just to be sure it get to full throttle every time you want it.

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

I have my TX setup with a dual protection on the arming. I did this with my Jeti controller and I am hoping to have the same affect with my Castle. I have a switch on my tx set to override throttle and which is set to force the throttle setting to be below the arming level of the ESC (hence a kill switch). I also have a slider I use which is mixed to throttle that I must raise to midpoint (audible beep on the tx) before the ESC arms and idles the motor. I can advance the slider to get a higher idle if I desire. I don't touch the trim. So to fly it I first connect my external arming connector (connects the batt ground wire to the esc) , then I throw the TX switch and then slowly raise the slider until I hear the beep on my tx and the motor starts to idle. I don't want to have a situation where I have to touch the throttle during arming or turn on the rx/esc with the throttle stick or tx above the arming point. For high throttle, I set the endpoint on the TX to be slightly above the Jeti's full throttle point.

I have been running my Castle controller using the above setup. For flight, I plug the battery arming jumper in and once it stops beeping at me I then throw the tx switch, advance the slider and once it is idling I go to full power for 4 seconds as stated in the manual to set the high point. I don't want to be forced to run up the motor in this way, so hopefully the manual endpoint setting will be what I want.

Blendzall

Manual endpoints set like ual767 here, plus a throttle curve thrown in for good measure (wanted a little more grunt below half stick). After it's set, that's it, just like a throttle servo.

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Steve,

I have the similar set up on my radio (12Z) where I have a switch assigned as throttle kill, and with this switch in the "On" position, the throttle stick is dis-engaged. When I am ready to fly, I will plug in the battery arming switch first, then switch off the throttle kill switch to get the motor in idle state.

Once you set the ESC to manual, and find the proper ATV %, you will never have to do the run up on the runway.

Kevin

kcnelson

I have had 3 cases now with the HV85 where the high throttle end point seemed to change in flight. I started out with normal power, but then it dropped off even with full throttle. I land, remove the arming plug, re-arm, and full power comes back. The last time I had the problem, I was getting only 4500 RPM (Dualsky and 20x15 APC) which then went back to 5400 after re-arming.

Any suggestions?

Ken

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Ken,

Do you use auto or manual end point setup?

I have not experienced the problem you described, but my experience is with version 2.0 firmware and manual end point. Perhaps it is worth trying.

Kevin

Dean Pappas

Hello Steve, Hello All,
For both safety and consistency, you want to set up the "fixed" throttle mode. Set the ATVs so that at full throttle the little LED wide-open-throttle indicator just turns on at the top "click" of the stick. Of course, the bottom ATV needs to be low enough to arm the sytstem and stop the prop.
After you have that working, put the actual flying prop on, and play with your throttle curve so that 1/2 stick produces 1/2 of the full throttle current draw, then do the same at 1/4 and 3/4 stick: making the current draw nice and proportional to stick movement. Most of us find that easiest to fly. On the other hand, there are folks who have to have cruise happen at 1/2 stick and they adjust their throttle curves to suit.

hope this helps,
Dean Pappas

shannah

My Feedback: (5)

Worked great, thanks guys.