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Sebart Miss Wind S 50E

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Old 04-29-2014, 09:46 AM
  #551  
thnilsen
 
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Originally Posted by martin1962
The attachement is not working
Here's the attachment that when missing from my previous post.. As mentioned it is not the best picture but you can clearly see the gap between the wing and the front former. I hope I'll be able to lift the covering and iron it back on once I've sanded down enough material. Time will tell..



- Thomas
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:19 AM
  #552  
martin1962
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Hi Thomas

I would be tempted to take a small peice from behind the wing and when its sits in properly into the sadle is should sit tight upto the former. If you alter the front you may find that the wing bolt will not line up and you then have to change that ,then the top and bottom wing supports wont fit and then they need changing and so it goes on and on. Mine is very tight to get it place..


Martin
Old 04-29-2014, 11:37 AM
  #553  
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Originally Posted by martin1962
Hi Thomas

I would be tempted to take a small peice from behind the wing and when its sits in properly into the sadle is should sit tight upto the former. If you alter the front you may find that the wing bolt will not line up and you then have to change that ,then the top and bottom wing supports wont fit and then they need changing and so it goes on and on. Mine is very tight to get it place..

Martin
The problem is that the wing bolt does not line up as it is now since the bolt hole in the wing is about 1.5mm too far behind due to the skew former. I could always enlarge the bolt hole in the wing 1.5mm forwards to make it align with the fuselage nut, but that would also mean that the wing would be sitting 1.5mm behind where it is supposed to be. I'm worried that this difference will make the alignment of the struts and upper wing wrong. It might also impact the lower wing incidence. By removing some balsa material on the front left hand side of the wing marked by the red ring in the picture i should be able to make it fit nicely and snug where it is supposed to with the fuselage.

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Old 04-29-2014, 12:49 PM
  #554  
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Issue resolved. I peeled back the covering a few millimeters at the front of the wing and sanded around the middle and on the side which was touching the front former. The wing now fits in the saddle with a just a bit of pressure. Moving on to gluing the horizontal stab...

- Thomas
Old 05-04-2014, 10:48 AM
  #555  
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How have other builders secured the servo wires for the rudder/elevator to prevent chafing from moving around on the formers at the back of the fuselage. Its not very easy to get to the back of the fuselage to make any form of anchor for the wires, so I was hoping someone had come up with a clever solution that also makes it easy to perform maintenance on the servos if needed.
Old 05-04-2014, 11:37 AM
  #556  
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Thniesen

Have you put the servo in the model and used a closed loop. I put a sevo in the rear so i had a short link to give a more solid response to the rudder without any slop like you get from a closed loop.


Martin
Old 05-04-2014, 12:04 PM
  #557  
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Martin,

Servos are mounted in the rear of the fuselage, as originally designed. I just want a way to protect the long wires from rubbing in the fuselage formers. At the moment I've though about using some lengths of protective "mesh" similar to the picture below. But the wires will still be loose in the rear of the fuselage so it would be handy to find a way to easily secure them, at least near the cocpit where it is easy to get to.

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Old 05-04-2014, 12:43 PM
  #558  
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Hi
Yes you could use that but its adding weight and the wires will still be flying around . what i have done is to reach in as far as i could and stuck double sided tape to each side of the turtle deck and them stuck the cables to this . this is the method i have used for years and its rear that they come loose. infact if its good tape you have a jobe removing them when you do a stripdown to change a servo.


Martin

Last edited by martin1962; 05-04-2014 at 03:16 PM.
Old 05-04-2014, 02:31 PM
  #559  
Dansy
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I used nothing just the wire it will take many many years before they need replacing......
Old 05-10-2014, 01:07 PM
  #560  
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As you say Dansy, I'm probably worrying over something that won't be an issue. Anyway, I found these nice foam wire clips by http://wire-keeps.com/ which will at least let me secure the wires around some of the more accessible spaces. Orderrf some from Phil's Hobby so now I just got to wait for the parcel to arrive from over the pond.

A new FrSky RX should arrive early next week together with a 100Amp Sensor so that I can start routing and planning the wiring in the fuse.

- Thomas
Old 05-14-2014, 06:27 AM
  #561  
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I used those keepers as well on the bigger stuff....but none in my MW I always try to keep them as light as humanly possible......
Old 05-14-2014, 06:35 AM
  #562  
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double post....
Old 05-14-2014, 03:16 PM
  #563  
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Hi,

2 velcro will keep the servo leads in place in rear part of the fuselage. I use that in my Wind S 50E.

/Bo
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:46 PM
  #564  
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The wiring has been sorted. Used a couple of the pads made by wire-keeps.com.

Maiden the model last week and am pleasantly pleased with it so far. Only had about 4 flights on it as the local mosquitos kept disturbing. Next issue to resolve now is how to mount the battery far enough to the back to get the CG right. At the moment the battery is just about possible to secure with a velcro strap at the rear end of the front compartment. However, to get the CG back even further I'll need to push it back beyond the accessible area at the front. I saw that Roberto P. posted a few pictures of a cage he used in is Miss Wind to resolve the same issue. Now I just need to find out where I can get hold of something similar.


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Old 06-06-2014, 03:10 PM
  #565  
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If You do not have the rudder servo in the tail it could solve the nose heavy problem also.
A 40 gram servo in tail will help much here. I have my Futaba S9551 servo for rudder in tail and have no CG problem (in my Wind S 50E) despite I use 6 cell 5000 mAh (Gens ace 45C) that weight about 780-790 gram. Maybe You have the rudder servo in tail and then You have to figure out someting smart, like the cage maybe, to get battery more to the rear.

/Bo

Last edited by bem; 06-06-2014 at 03:29 PM.
Old 06-06-2014, 03:24 PM
  #566  
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[QUOTE=thnilsen;11818796]The wiring has been sorted. Used a couple of the pads made by wire-keeps.com.

Maiden the model last week and am pleasantly pleased with it so far. Only had about 4 flights on it as the local mosquitos kept disturbing. Next issue to resolve now is how to mount the battery far enough to the back to get the CG right. At the moment the battery is just about possible to secure with a velcro strap at the rear end of the front compartment. However, to get the CG back even further I'll need to push it back beyond the accessible area at the front. I saw that Roberto P. posted a few pictures of a cage he used in is Miss Wind to resolve the same issue. Now I just need to find out where I can get hold of something similar.


[/QUOTE

What I did to solve that little problem I installed 2 small elevator servo's on each side and a full size rudder servo in the underside of the tail....no C&G problem...
Old 06-18-2014, 10:58 AM
  #567  
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Dansy,

Do you know where your CG is located? Is it much further behind 120mm? I would prefer to solve the CG issue without having to add weight if possible.One option I have is to move a 700mha LiFe RX battery (about 40gram) further back above the lower wing. This is currently mount just behind the motor. Makes it a bit more difficult to get to if it needs to be charged, but if it solves the CG issue I guess I can live with it.

I also had a reply from Roberto P and he can provide the same cage as he makes them. If relocating the RX doesn't resolve the issue I think I'll go with the lipo cage.

Thomas
Old 06-18-2014, 11:11 AM
  #568  
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Hum I never actually measure it I adjusted the equipment until I was satisfied...
Old 06-18-2014, 03:41 PM
  #569  
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It should balance if you pick it up on the bottom of the top wing were the servo wires go into the wing.
Old 06-19-2014, 10:19 AM
  #570  
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Originally Posted by RCBruski65
It should balance if you pick it up on the bottom of the top wing were the servo wires go into the wing.
In an ideal world yes. That point is about 120mm as recommended by Sebart. However, on some model this doesn't balance the model properly and you end up with a lot of elevator up trim to get it to fly straight the right way up. I suspect it has a lot to do with the what the angle of the horizontal stab is once glued in - which probably varies if my model was anything to go by. I had to use 2mm balsa between the fuselage and the stab when gluing as the gap was just too big.

I'll keep testing and moving the CG further back. I'm currently just over the 120mm and has quite a way to go yet.

Thomas
Old 11-03-2014, 01:02 AM
  #571  
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Maidened mine this morning.
had the model for about six months, been too i timidated to fly it in case I destroyed it, it is too nice!

neednt have feared anything. Tracked straight and true right off the bench, two clicks of up required only.
i had the throws at 50% but changed them to 40%, and the model flew better for the change.The biggest issue I faced was how to get it into the car!

Really happy I have this model.
Old 11-03-2014, 09:02 AM
  #572  
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You will like it, it is a great flying plane!
Old 12-20-2014, 03:32 AM
  #573  
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Originally Posted by thnilsen
How have other builders secured the servo wires for the rudder/elevator to prevent chafing from moving around on the formers at the back of the fuselage. Its not very easy to get to the back of the fuselage to make any form of anchor for the wires, so I was hoping someone had come up with a clever solution that also makes it easy to perform maintenance on the servos if needed.
You can use some very lightweight servo wire tubes
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/gator-fe...-5-pack-gt1001
Old 12-20-2014, 09:49 AM
  #574  
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I used nothing and there's no damage after 2 years of flying it so far.......I got 3 servo in the tail.

i used the Gator tube when it's a composite fuselage because of the possible abrasion....not in wood frame with electric motor.
Old 02-13-2015, 07:39 PM
  #575  
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Subscribed. I have just taken delivery of mine. Yellow and black. I still have some decisions to make on servos but most likely all Hitec digitals. The motor will be an OS 5020 - 375 with a Talon 90 ESC.


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