Sebart Miss Wind S 50E
#576
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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Forget the OS motors. You cannot reverse the shaft for a front mounting. I have just ordered the recommended Hacker motor. I have completed installing the Hitec 5065 MG digitals in the wings. The wings are so thin I had to put a 1.5mm packing under the trailing edge side as the servo was fouling and denting the opposite side of the wing. I used the CA hinges but I wish I had used Robarts. IMHO CA hinges are too stiff. The CF rods which locate the wings will make it easy to dismantle. Good idea Sebart. Has anyone put a grip on the end of the CF rod for ease of installation and removal. I fellow pilot just let his stick out about 50mm. They look like guns!
#578
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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Someone mentioned about 3 hours for assembly....I spent 2 hours just fitting the carbon rods holding the wings. Taking time to ease the holes so the rods fitted firmly yet could be removed reasonable easy. is a time consuming job you cannot rush. Too big a hole and the rod would be too loose and too tight a hole and the wings get damaged every time you struggle to put the rods in and get the rods out. I found the best way to ease the holes and make sure they lined up was to use a 1.66mm threaded steel rod, using the threads as a type of file. To get the spacer struts between the wings to fit I had to fiddle with the slots in the wings and remove bits of excess wood and glue. Again this is a job which cannot be rushed or the spacer struts would be too loose or too tight and again damage the wings as you struggle to get them on and off. I am not complaining about doing this. I have built some 20 ARF planes and have not found one yet which goes together without some fiddling. It is part of the challenge.
I think a reasonable time to build this plane is at least 12 hours and this does not allow for the time spent waiting for glues to harden, even CA, which can catch you out the next morning when you think it should have gone off from the night before. I have offered up another piece in a test fit the next morning and "ZAP got ya", a drop of the CA in a hole grabs and sets immediately.
I made a mistake I have never made before. I did go over the covering with an iron before I started but I must have missed the chamferred edge of one aileron. In fitting the CA hinges I missed that one hinge had slipped between the balsa and the covering and not entered the slot.....fool.....and I had glued two of the end hinges before I noticed. I had to cut the hinges I had glued and reposition new ones. It wouldn't have happened if I had used Robart hinges. Grrrrrr. And by the way why didn't I use Robart?..because Sebart, shown on other planes of theirs I have assembeled, do not put enough balsa on the edges where the hinge is glued.
I think a reasonable time to build this plane is at least 12 hours and this does not allow for the time spent waiting for glues to harden, even CA, which can catch you out the next morning when you think it should have gone off from the night before. I have offered up another piece in a test fit the next morning and "ZAP got ya", a drop of the CA in a hole grabs and sets immediately.
I made a mistake I have never made before. I did go over the covering with an iron before I started but I must have missed the chamferred edge of one aileron. In fitting the CA hinges I missed that one hinge had slipped between the balsa and the covering and not entered the slot.....fool.....and I had glued two of the end hinges before I noticed. I had to cut the hinges I had glued and reposition new ones. It wouldn't have happened if I had used Robart hinges. Grrrrrr. And by the way why didn't I use Robart?..because Sebart, shown on other planes of theirs I have assembeled, do not put enough balsa on the edges where the hinge is glued.
#579
My Feedback: (53)
I don't think you should have enlarge the carbon fiber holes.....they loosen up after a while, this will be my third season with mine....I used what he recommend so it's just bolt on 3 hrs sound about right....
#580
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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I have received the Hacker motor and fitted it today. Surprisingly the motor is not a straight bolt in fit. The circlip on the front was binding on the mount so I ended up removing it. I cannot see the shaft coming out or moving. Did anyone else have this problem? I would have had to ream the hole for the shaft and extra 3mm on the diameter to clear the circlip if I left it on.
#582
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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Amazing isn't it that there could be a difference between models with the hole in the firewall. I did a CoG balance today and I read in earlier posts people have been pushing the battery right back to get a balance. Because of this I used standard servos for the rudder and elevator which of course would be a bit heavier than minis and it appears I shall have to put some lead up the nose with the 6S battery as far forward as I can go. I will do a balance again before I start fixing lead inside just to make sure I wasn't getting a false reading on my rig. You never know I may be wearing the wrong socks.
#583
My Feedback: (53)
With 17x10 APC (heavy).....stock spinner (also heavy) my battery was holding by a tread so to speak push way back.....I have 2 mini servo for the elevator (I split them) and a normal size servo for the rudder with pull-pull setup all setup in the tail.......also have a 900 mAh for the receiver behind the C&G....I'm using a 6s 4500 mAh.
This season I have a carbon spinner and prop to try......didn't check C&G yet......but will do before flying it....I hope the battery did move forward some
This season I have a carbon spinner and prop to try......didn't check C&G yet......but will do before flying it....I hope the battery did move forward some
#584
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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Splitting the elevator was a good idea. The Wind 50 has split elevators plus the servos are hidden inside the horizontal stabilizer which makes for a neat installation. I wonder why Sebart did not go for the same layout on the Miss Wind. What flight time are you getting with 4500 mAh batteries and a 17 x 10 prop? I was working on what I was using on my Wind 50, which is very similar to the Miss Wind, with the OS 5025 375 motor and 6S 5000mAh and a 16 x 12 APC. With that I was getting 7 mins easy with 40% left. I have in fact just changed the motor in it to an OS 5020 490 on 5S 5000 mAh and 16 x 10 APC and am getting 6 mins easy but with 30% left in the battery. I did this change to cut down on the weight as the Wind 50 under carriage legs are a bit soft. Once I have flown the Miss Wind a few times I will see if a motor and battery reduction is in order. here is a picture of how I balanced the Miss Wind. Balancing is a very different operation to monoplanes. This is the first time I have used this rig so I am a bit wary.
#585
My Feedback: (53)
Well I split mine because there was a small twist between the 2 elevators that I wasn't able to straight out and it was nose heavy......so instead of building another one...it was a might as well.
I never weighted mine, it really doesn't matter......she fly with authority no lack of power....with the 16x12 she wasn't climbing well tried a few props and the 17x10 was the nicest smooth climb, I don't fly around with full throttle....I fly her like my pattern planes.
I never weighted mine, it really doesn't matter......she fly with authority no lack of power....with the 16x12 she wasn't climbing well tried a few props and the 17x10 was the nicest smooth climb, I don't fly around with full throttle....I fly her like my pattern planes.
#587
My Feedback: (53)
Ya I tried a few different props 17x10 and 17x12 and a few other, I like the 17x10 is best for the speed I like to fly at and the climb is great. I don't need a speed demon just want to fly at constant speed.....the Miss wind is for a rough flying site close to home.....and the 2m for a better site about 30min away....
#588
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Braidwood Australia
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I maidened my Miss wind 50 today. Like all Sebart planes I have and have had it is a delight to fly. No bad habits. My balance system worked perfectly. A 45 deg inverted climb had the plane very very slightly dropping the nose towards the canopy. The battery is a Turnigy 5000 6S and is positioned so it is about 50mm under the rear of the battery area. I have 15g of lead glued on the canopy at the front. I am using a Talon 90 ESC. I am also using a Hacker 50-16s ver 3 motor and on this first outing it was a bit disappointing at low to 2/3rds throttle. I have adjusted the ESC acceleration to high, it was on medium. This is the first time I have ever had to do this as I tend to be on the conservative side to look after the motor mount. This is the first time I have used a Hacker 50 16s so I suppose I have to setup the ESC to suit it as the default settings do not seem to work. I have also reduced the PWM to 10. It was on 12. I am not too confident as to whether I know what I am doing in this area and I have found Castle Creation auto setting generally works so I do not touch them.
I am using Hitec 5065 MG on the ailerons and I had set the dual rates deflection for my first flight at 40% which gave 10mm up deflection. This was too much for landing so I reduced it to about 8mm up. (My medium and high rates are way above this so do not panic. I just like very low rates with low expo for smoother landings.) When I got home I moved the control rods on the aileron servos in one hole. I have 60% and 80% on dual rates for medium and high rates but as I get used to the plane the high rates may go higher. I am using Align 610 standard servos on the elevator and rudder and also had to reduce the low rates on the elevator for the same reason as I explained above.
To "run the motor in" I used a 16 x 10 APC prop and had between 60% to 70% remaining in the batteries after 5 min of flying and a few minutes of taxiing up and down the runway to adjust the rudder. I see everyone is using a 17 x 10 or 17 x 12 prop so after a couple of more flights I will try them.
I am using Hitec 5065 MG on the ailerons and I had set the dual rates deflection for my first flight at 40% which gave 10mm up deflection. This was too much for landing so I reduced it to about 8mm up. (My medium and high rates are way above this so do not panic. I just like very low rates with low expo for smoother landings.) When I got home I moved the control rods on the aileron servos in one hole. I have 60% and 80% on dual rates for medium and high rates but as I get used to the plane the high rates may go higher. I am using Align 610 standard servos on the elevator and rudder and also had to reduce the low rates on the elevator for the same reason as I explained above.
To "run the motor in" I used a 16 x 10 APC prop and had between 60% to 70% remaining in the batteries after 5 min of flying and a few minutes of taxiing up and down the runway to adjust the rudder. I see everyone is using a 17 x 10 or 17 x 12 prop so after a couple of more flights I will try them.
Last edited by watdazit; 05-04-2015 at 12:47 AM.
#589
Hi Watdazit,
The problem you have is not with the acceleration setting on the ESC it is the fact that the thrust/rpm relationship for a propeller is non linear meaning to get a linear feel on the throttle stick requires a throttle curve set in the Tx.
Leave the acceleration setting on high and read my article here: http://www.saaweb.co.uk/pdf/airtime2...015.8.62mb.pdf page 65 onwards.
Hope this helps,
Malcolm
The problem you have is not with the acceleration setting on the ESC it is the fact that the thrust/rpm relationship for a propeller is non linear meaning to get a linear feel on the throttle stick requires a throttle curve set in the Tx.
Leave the acceleration setting on high and read my article here: http://www.saaweb.co.uk/pdf/airtime2...015.8.62mb.pdf page 65 onwards.
Hope this helps,
Malcolm
#592
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N.W. ,
FL
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Pilots.
My MW has been hanging in my garage for a couple years and just want to warn you of a fail on the plane. I checked everything on the plane before I decided to fly it again. So on takeoff the motor and wooden bulkhead left the plane. I manage to land only because when the motor let go my lipo pack was pull forward enough to help control a less tail heavy plane. I landed o.k. but the front cowling(the bottom fiberglass portion which forms the bottom of the nose on the fuselage) was damaged and I would like to replace it. The problem is I am not sure there is a replacement part for the bottom cowling......my Sebart connections in the USA can't really give me an answer. It sure seems there should be a replacement for an area of the MW which could be damaged. Any info on a replacement?.
Below is a photo of the front of the MW...the red outline is the fiberglass cowling that I need.
My MW has been hanging in my garage for a couple years and just want to warn you of a fail on the plane. I checked everything on the plane before I decided to fly it again. So on takeoff the motor and wooden bulkhead left the plane. I manage to land only because when the motor let go my lipo pack was pull forward enough to help control a less tail heavy plane. I landed o.k. but the front cowling(the bottom fiberglass portion which forms the bottom of the nose on the fuselage) was damaged and I would like to replace it. The problem is I am not sure there is a replacement part for the bottom cowling......my Sebart connections in the USA can't really give me an answer. It sure seems there should be a replacement for an area of the MW which could be damaged. Any info on a replacement?.
Below is a photo of the front of the MW...the red outline is the fiberglass cowling that I need.
#595
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Columbia, MD
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Finally got to maiden my Miss Wind and she did not disappoint me with performance. I did not need but a couple of clicks of trim and she was flying great. No problems with the rods used to attach the wings - brilliant idea. The only thing I disliked was using the screw to lock down the battery hatch. It is a PITA to get inserted and started - it can be dropped and lost very easily.
Any ideas on how to attach the screw to the hatch OR use a different hatch latch?
Any ideas on how to attach the screw to the hatch OR use a different hatch latch?
#597
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Columbia, MD
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Thanks for letting me have the pleasure of owning and flying such a great model. She is very SMOOTH in the air, effortless knife edge flight, beautiful slow rolls and easy to land (greased 2 out of 3 landings).
-Vic
-Vic
#598
My Feedback: (3)
Since I fly off grass only, I paint my wing, canopy, hatch screws in a high visibility color paint.
It helps a bit when I drop one ... or two
Plus I always bring extras for each plane !
It might be possible to use Secraft or BVM cockpit latch (at top rear of canopy) with some mods to the fuselage slots/canopy latches (install and slide forward)
(But since it is likely the only white/red/green Miss Wind, I'm not sure I would try)
It helps a bit when I drop one ... or two
Plus I always bring extras for each plane !
It might be possible to use Secraft or BVM cockpit latch (at top rear of canopy) with some mods to the fuselage slots/canopy latches (install and slide forward)
(But since it is likely the only white/red/green Miss Wind, I'm not sure I would try)
#599
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Columbia, MD
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Since I fly off grass only, I paint my wing, canopy, hatch screws in a high visibility color paint.
It helps a bit when I drop one ... or two
Plus I always bring extras for each plane !
It might be possible to use Secraft or BVM cockpit latch (at top rear of canopy) with some mods to the fuselage slots/canopy latches (install and slide forward)
(But since it is likely the only white/red/green Miss Wind, I'm not sure I would try)
It helps a bit when I drop one ... or two
Plus I always bring extras for each plane !
It might be possible to use Secraft or BVM cockpit latch (at top rear of canopy) with some mods to the fuselage slots/canopy latches (install and slide forward)
(But since it is likely the only white/red/green Miss Wind, I'm not sure I would try)
-Vic
#600
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Columbia, MD
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Took the Miss Wind out for a spin today. I was reluctant to fly once I got to the field - winds were about 8 mph (gusting 10-12). I normally don't have much fun flying these types of wind conditions but it was straight down the runway so I gave it a try. To my surprise, the Miss Wind was not affected at all by the wind and flew great - no buffeting or bumping around. It is undoubtedly the best plane I have ever flown - even in the wind. She is not fast, but has surprising vertical performance. I pulled out my Osiris to do a comparison flight. Although it flew ell, it got blown around a bit. I'm going to love this Miss Wind!
-Vic
-Vic