hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Harris,

Let me see if I can possibly explain this... First, I removed the wing struts and set them aside. I shaved about 1/16" off of the shoulder of the rear fuse wing standoff for the top wing (the shoulder that the wing rests on when you assemble the wing). Then I had to shave off 1/16" off of the top portion of that standoff that inserts into the wing so it would not hit the top of the wing inside since it is now longer. Then I filed the standoff slot down about 1/16" where the carbon rod inserts into the standoff so it could go lower in the slot. Then I cut a 1/16' wide piece of 3/32" plywood and inserted it into the top inside portion of this slot and glued it. This in effect moved the carbon rod slot downward towards the fuse by 1/16", lowering the rear of the top wing by that amount. I ended up doing this two times, in effect lowering the rear of the top wing about 1/8". After I was satisfied with my incidence readings, I proceeded to trim the top rear portion of both struts by about the same 1/8" so they would fit the contour of the bottom side of the top wing. I did this in slow steps to make sure both struts were the same so the wing would not be higher or lower on one side. I wound up with offsetting incidences in the wings. I wanted to take the top wing down further so that I created an overall positive incidence, but wanted to fly it first to make sure all was okay. That is where I am at now. I am going to take the top wing down further until I get and overall .25 degree positive incidence difference and then try it again.
I hope all of this made some sense. If it doesn't let me know and maybe I can word it differently. Thanks,
Larry....

Hans Meij

I'm at +0,5 bottom wing -0,5 top wing now. Had to cut the struts for that.
Increased the side thrust a bit.
Both changes worked out to my liking.
Some pictures in a recently started blog.
http://meijhmb.blogspot.com/

HARRIS-G

Larry

Thank you for the details of your modification on the wing incidence.
I will do the same work with my plane and post you my results.

About C.G i moved it as far back as i can get and the plane flies without any up trim
and also the knife edge seems to improved.

Harris

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

To all,

I finished the mods to the incidence on my Miss Wind this evening. I wound up with a 1.8 degrees positive on the bottom wing and a 1.5 degrees negative on the top wing. Now all I need is some decent weather to go fly it and check it out. I am guessing that I will wind up with a neutral elevator, or very close (I hope). At least, that is my goal. I will let you know the results, but looks like the weather is socked in for another week at best.....

byoung466

My Feedback: (16)

Which Futaba or JR servo's have been tried on this plane?

Thanks

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Brian,

I am using the JR DS821's on elevator and rudder and the Hitec HS-5065's on the ailerons..

tIANci

Mine merely the 5485s and HS65s ...

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Got my plane yesterday. Everything looked great except for one aileron that is badly warped. It is bowed quite a bit aover the whole length and only had one hinge in it. I talked to Esprit about it. They gave me some suggestions on how to straighten it out. If I can't straighten it out to my liking, I will have to send the whole plane back.

I started looking at servo options for the ailerons. Based on what I found so far, I think the Futaba S3156 might do it. It is 28 oz-in at 4.8 V and 33 oz-in at 6V. I run a voltage regulator at 5.75V on my planes. I do not care for Hitec stuff. Any other suggestions out there?

I also have four JR DS368's laying around that I might be able to make fit. I'll have to take a close look at seeing if I can make them fit with minimal effort.

Larry, how are the DS821's on Rudder and Elevator? Just wondering if an 8411SA would be overkill on this plane for rudder.

Overall, it is still a nice kit.

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Joe,

So far the DS821's are fine. 70 oz of torque and they center really well and are very inexpensive compared to their counterparts. I only have 7 flights so far on the Miss Wind. Although I have been using them quite a bit lately in other planes and have had absolutely zero problems. As far as rudder on the Miss Wind. You had better put plenty of expo in it because if you give the normal input you would use for knife edge on a regular plane, you will be doing a knife edge loop with this plane. Probably has the most rudder authority of any plane I have ever flown. I set mine up with a lot less throws on the control surfaces than they recommended. Of course, I think that they had the throws set that high to cover their bases for 3-D flying. Hope you can get your aileron straightened okay. If it had only one hinge, maybe that is the reason it got warped.

Larry.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Joe,
I don't have the biplane but maybe the repair I made to my Wind 110 will
help you.

Strangely enough I had the exact aileron warp problem. I steamed the aileron
pretty heavily while propping it with the opposite bend, then let it sit for a day
with weights on it before I moved it. I then reshrunk the covering with a pretty
hot covering iron then let the covering cool awhile. For a little added insurance
I put just a little opposite bend in the aileron then put a piece of clear 3M packing
tape across the bottom of the aileron at an angle opposite the warp to keep the
warp from coming back and it's still straight after flying in all kinds of temperatures
during the past summer. I also added a couple of extra Radio South hinges in
each aileron. Hope this helps.

tommy s

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Esprit suggested that I cut the leading edge down the middle the whole length of the aileron and then wick CA the length of the cut.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Never tried anything like that....could get messy !!
The clear tape is the only thing that shows on the bottom of my wing.

tommy s

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Any one know anything about the MKS servos?

http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=10274

byoung466

My Feedback: (16)

Joe, Dick Hansen wrote once about fixing wing warps using a similar method.

But, I have used the heat and twist method on other planes.

F3A Nordic

I have JR DS 9401 installed on Rudder and elevator. JR DS9411SA is also a very nice servo and have no backlatch in gear train.
I think 8411SA is overkill. I would go for JR DS 9411SA.
On ailerons i have Hyperion DS11-SCB, ok servo but does not move every trim step, i think Futaba and JR have some nice Digital servo that would do the job.
/ Anders

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

The aileron is not twisted it is bowed along the length. Took a quick look at the aileron before I left for work this morning. It takes very little effort to bend it straight. Hopefully heat will take most of it out and I'll put a couple extra hinges in it for good measure. Seems like the wood on this particular aileron is not very rigid.

madfreestyler

Im using savox on mine. 4.4kg micros on the wings and 7kg on the elevator and rudder. Seem quite quick good centering and accurate. Yet to fly though still waiting for my lipos.

Velco

There is very little written about carbon gear servos, so I would like to share my experience so far.  In theory they should give the smoothness of plastic gears with the durability and strength of metal gears. This year I have discovered Ino Lab servo's and since then I have been replacing the servos on all of my planes (well except some expensive JR/Graupner)  with Ino Lab servos. 

For Miss Wind 50 I plan to use HGD-202HB carbon gear for the ailerons and HG-D650HB carbon gear on the rudder and the elevator. I have a very good experience with HG-D650HB all 4 in my Angel and HGD-260HB carbon gear all over Element 30. I plan to use HG-D650HB also on the Wind 110 for ailerons and the elevator with HG-D750MG on the rudder.

Every time I purchase new servos I open them up for inspection and to check for  the gear play. All I can say about Ino Lab servos is that the quality is very good and no gear slop at all on all carbon gear servos once they are put under load!

Velco

byoung466

My Feedback: (16)

I wonder if the JR DS290g is strong enough on ailerons; very fast but torque might be low.

Torque: 13 oz-in @ 4.8V; 16 oz-in @ 6V
Speed: .08 sec/60; .07 sec/60 @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .45x.87x.85
Weight: .25 oz

hotrod34a

My Feedback: (36)

Just my two cents worth, but it I don't think that would be enough torque. But it has always been my preference to have torque over speed. You can't afford blow back on the ailerons, although the ds290's are digital.

tIANci

Velco ... I have been hearing about the InoLab from local flyers who use them on helis ... I should give it a go ...

Velco

The word "helis" is the key word here. I am not flying helis but some of my friends are, and discussing with them I understand the importance of the servo used for the tail on helis. Speed, precision and durability.

First time I came across Ino Lab servos was more than a year ago on HK site. They were by far the most expensive servos on HK site at the time, enough to raise my curiosity. I did some research at the time and had discovered that they are mainly used by pro heli 3d guys, so that was a good start. My guess is that Ino Lab is developing and manufacturing servos for some of the brands we all know very well.

At HK they are still very expensive until you log in and put them in your basket (you don't have to actually purchase them), try doing that and you will be shocked especially if you are a Platinum member! Just one word, amazing!

When you read lately about what servos some of the pro F3A guys are using they are mainly advertised for heli applications. This is not by chance!

I just wanted to tell you all that we can have very good stuff at very good prices as in F3A cheap is usually not good enough.

Velco

tIANci

Velco ... try the Align Trex 600 ball links, that is something I will be doing to upgrade my WindS 110. They will be so smooth. I tried helis before and everything needs to be smooth and able to handle the stresses of hard 3D flying. Hence, I can see the Align ball links to be a great thing for planes.

byoung466

My Feedback: (16)

Well, the incidence setting of mine is as others have found.

2.6 neg top and 1.8 pos bottom.

I wonder what the designer intended?

I also found that they mis-stamped the wingstruts, so top was bottom and front was back.

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Brian, check out the Airtronics 94761Z's. I'm going to give them a try. You will probably have to modify the mounts just a bit and cut off the tabs on the servo case.