Contra Rotating Propeller Drive for f3a 2m Pattern Planes
#1878
Thread Starter
I am attaching the Kontronik manual for people to look through.
Brenner ...
#1879
My Feedback: (1)
Well after 50 flights I decided to service my Brenner V2 CD and Neu motor and all seems well with no visible signs of wear and tear so as I stated in an earlier response I would consider telling everyone of my modification after a number of flights. Wait for it, wait for it.....Ceramic bearings! I am still averaging 2200-2500mah per Masters flight (even in the winter winds here in Tennessee) and could not be more pleased. Wish I would have thought of this 5 years ago! Regards, Everette
#1880
Thread Starter
Well after 50 flights I decided to service my Brenner V2 CD and Neu motor and all seems well with no visible signs of wear and tear so as I stated in an earlier response I would consider telling everyone of my modification after a number of flights. Wait for it, wait for it.....Ceramic bearings! I am still averaging 2200-2500mah per Masters flight (even in the winter winds here in Tennessee) and could not be more pleased. Wish I would have thought of this 5 years ago! Regards, Everette
Which bearings have you replaced with ceramic bearings?
Brenner ...
#1881
My Feedback: (1)
Hi Brenner, I replaced the bearings in the Neu F3A motor. It not only runs smoother but consistently cooler. To me, increased heat equates to a loss of energy. I know because I have always kept records (as you know) of every flight (times, temperature of the motor & CD, end of flight voltage readings and mahs restored to the battery after charging) no matter which plane or motor I chose to fly. Maybe for once I figured it out! Everette
#1882
Thread Starter
Hey Everette,
Ceramic bearings will be able to spin faster, which will help with the motor because the Nue f3a motor spins at about 43,000 rpm. You can also consider ceramic bearings with phenolic races instead of steel races. Phenolic races have less weight, so they can also spin faster. We use these types of bearings for the main bearings in the V4 Drive. It lets us upsize the bearings without having to accept a lower speed rating.
High speed bearings are typically shielded because rubber seals burn up in high speed bearings. However, it is possible to get bearings with non-contact rubber seals. Non-contact rubber seals are removable so it is possible to regrease the bearings when the grease dries up. This is usually how motor bearings fail.
One final thing to note is that motor bearings should be "electric motor quality" bearings. These bearings have tighter clearances specifically for electric motors. If you use bearings that have loose clearances, (like bearings with a C3 clearance rating...) you might get unacceptable variation in the air gap between the rotor and the stator.
Brenner ...
Ceramic bearings will be able to spin faster, which will help with the motor because the Nue f3a motor spins at about 43,000 rpm. You can also consider ceramic bearings with phenolic races instead of steel races. Phenolic races have less weight, so they can also spin faster. We use these types of bearings for the main bearings in the V4 Drive. It lets us upsize the bearings without having to accept a lower speed rating.
High speed bearings are typically shielded because rubber seals burn up in high speed bearings. However, it is possible to get bearings with non-contact rubber seals. Non-contact rubber seals are removable so it is possible to regrease the bearings when the grease dries up. This is usually how motor bearings fail.
One final thing to note is that motor bearings should be "electric motor quality" bearings. These bearings have tighter clearances specifically for electric motors. If you use bearings that have loose clearances, (like bearings with a C3 clearance rating...) you might get unacceptable variation in the air gap between the rotor and the stator.
Brenner ...
#1883
My Feedback: (1)
Thanks Brenner, your response contains a lot of very useful information. The bearings I found are "electric motor quality' but have the steel races. Now to come up with bearings with the phenolic races and non-contact rubber seals. It may take a bit of digging but I will find them in the near future. Thanks again, Everette
#1885
Hey Peter,
I bought the Kontronik telemetry adapter that works with the18MZ. I haven't installed my Jive yet because it's the middle of winter here in the Midwestern USA (We had -30 C temperatures here yesterday with windchill down to -40C..)
I will get it running when the weather warms up in the spring. I'll have answers then.
Brenner ...
I bought the Kontronik telemetry adapter that works with the18MZ. I haven't installed my Jive yet because it's the middle of winter here in the Midwestern USA (We had -30 C temperatures here yesterday with windchill down to -40C..)
I will get it running when the weather warms up in the spring. I'll have answers then.
Brenner ...
Mike
#1886
My Feedback: (3)
I have access to a precision dynamometer at work (used for brushed and brushless motor development).
I was considering taking my current Neu off my V3 Contra at the end of the season, running a baseline, then swapping out the bearings to the ones that you described and repeating the measurements.
#1887
Thread Starter
I finally got to fly my Kontronic Jive 120 ESC.
I am flying my Jive 120 without a heat sink. (it comes with a heat sink if you want to use it..) I am also flying it with a Bert Dekker custom-wound motor with a Throttle Tech device, and I am using 23" props. I am currently flying with 6000mah Thunderpower packs, but I think I will switch to the 5800 LiHV packs that Mike Mueller is selling. I don't need the extra power, but the 100g weight saving is very compelling. All of this is flying in a BJ Craft Element.
The ESC is supposed to have telemetry but I haven't had the time to get it working yet so I can't report on internal ESC temperatures. Freewheeling is activated, and the PWM frequency is set to auto-adjust from 32khz to 64khz. The whole setup is very quiet. After about half throttle the sound doesn't really change much at all, but the power produced definitely does. I am not yet prepared to claim that the ESC is making my system quieter, because my V4 has been very quiet like this ever since I upgraded the main gears to lapped gears.
After my first flight, I reduced my throttle ATV to 80%. At this setting, I had as much power and speed as I thought I would need. This setup was still very fast, and it had unlimited vertical at half throttle. After another ten or so flights I increased my throttle ATV to 90%, and I am considering going to 100%. I very rarely fly at full throttle, but I find that there are certain maneuvers where an extra boost of power is helpful. One example of this is upline snaps.
My P19 flights are consistently drawing about 3500 mah, and I am getting through the F19 pattern with not much more than 3700 mah. I think that I am benefiting from the active freewheeling circuitry in the ESC because I can draw up to 5000 mah if I put in a full throttle flight. This is not practical though, because the plane flies way too fast.
With an ambient temperature of 15C my motor is coming down at about 55C, and my ESC is coming down at 35C. My ESC is located directly in the airflow from the cheater hole in the front of my plane, and my motor is not directly located in any flow of outside air. Regardless though, I think I have more than enough margin in both my motor and my ESC for hot summer days.
I set the brake up at its lowest setting, and this seems to be just right. I don't think I'll be changing it from this setting.
Throttle response is very smooth and linear, and I don't have any lurches on final approach like I used to have with my Jeti Mezon.
All in all, I am liking everything so far. If I can consistently put flights in long term with less than 4000 mah, I will be very happy.
Brenner ...
Last edited by Brenner; 05-11-2019 at 03:36 PM.
#1888
Brenner, thanks for the information. I'll be using the Jive Pro 120 and a JETI TelMe module in my Eternity bipe with your V4 drive. Did you program modes and 1 and 3, and then setup the brake in the K-Config software?
Mike
Mike
#1889
Thread Starter
Yes, I did. I also upgraded the ESC Bios to the latest version as well.
Brenner...
#1890
#1892
Burned up a Kontronik 600-94 Saturday on an upline. ESC works fine on an unloaded motor (Spin 99). V4 Contra looks fine. No loose magnets or drag in the motor. Motor has been only warm after landing up to this point. Using about 30% brake. Are there any known issues or conflicts? Going to replace both the motor and esc.
Thanks, Gary
Thanks, Gary
#1893
Thread Starter
You don’t want to use a spin 99 ESC with the Kontronik 600 series motor.
The Spin 99 is not capable of keeping up with the required commutation rate.
ESCs that will work are:
Jeti Mezon
Castle
Yge
Kontronik Jive
Brenner..
The Spin 99 is not capable of keeping up with the required commutation rate.
ESCs that will work are:
Jeti Mezon
Castle
Yge
Kontronik Jive
Brenner..
#1894
#1895
[QUOTE=Brenner;12527395]
]Brenner, Which Castle esc? (any hv?)... Also, I have a new YEP 120hv (YGE clone). Any experience with them?
Thanks, Gary
You don’t want to use a spin 99 ESC with the Kontronik 600 series motor.
The Spin 99 is not capable of keeping up with the required commutation rate.
ESCs that will work are:
Jeti Mezon
Castle
Yge
Kontronik Jive
Brenner..
[/QUOTEThe Spin 99 is not capable of keeping up with the required commutation rate.
ESCs that will work are:
Jeti Mezon
Castle
Yge
Kontronik Jive
Brenner..
]Brenner, Which Castle esc? (any hv?)... Also, I have a new YEP 120hv (YGE clone). Any experience with them?
Thanks, Gary