phmurphy

Ihave notice that too. It won't bind unless the tx is close to the heli. Probablysomething about picking the strongest signal. It all makes sense now. That settled, do you think there is any relationship to the throttle cut-out? I'll just test it, but Iwill probably just walk far far away until Iam outside the throttle zone, and then get closer and see when the throttle kick in. Idon't have anyone to hold the heli.

Pat

imacamper

I really don't know what's causing your throttle cut out. I'll leave that to the experts.

phmurphy

Thanks Drew. I'll report back about the distance to throttle cut-out.

karlik

Gain/sensitivity is for the gyro. Too low and the tail will drift, too high and it will wag back and forth. Extent is the amount of servo travel – how far the servo arm moves at full stick. If you have it set too high you’ll over control the heli… BUT as your flying skill improves you can increase it and make the heli a little more responsive. Neither one is part of this problem so don’t mess with’em right now.

The receiver antenna is ok bent (just don’t bend it back and forth or it’ll break). I just wanted to see if there was anything near it that might cause interference or block the signal. It’s the transmitter antenna that should point straight up – but even it shouldn’t cause the range to be as short as yours is.

I have known plank fliers who repaired a fuselage with carbon fiber that blocked the signal. JB weld has metal filings in it and will block the signal. If you’ve repaired the canopy you may have found a new way to block the signal so test once with no canopy.

With these radios (walkera) the binding sequence is transmitter first then receiver. A walkera radio will ONLY bind with another walkera, and even if you have another guy flying a walkera 3 ft away they still shouldn’t be a problem (my brother and I do it all the time).

There are only a few things that could be the cause-

A very strong signal that is interfering. In the old days we had problems with transmitters for pagers being nearby. With these radios interference is very unlikely but possible. You might test it in a different location if you haven’t yet, but I wouldn’t expect to see a change.

An object(s) blocking the signal. You aren’t flying behind a building, tree, etc. so that’s probably not it. Repairing the canopy with carbon fiber, JB weld, or a conductive paint, etc. would fit in here.

Antenna problem – broken wire or bad/cold solder joint. Any time I hear reduced range I think antenna first. You said you only just started flying it at any range and it never has worked quite right? It could very well have left the factory with a problem. If you are confident with a solder iron you might melt the solder on the antenna joints and see if it helps. If you aren't confident, then don't.

Bad transmitter or receiver – anything other than the antenna. The problem is troubleshooting is almost unheard of. Way cheaper to just replace.

At this point you don’t know if it’s a problem with the transmitter or receiver.

My suggestion would be go to the walkera forum (it’s an electronic heli sub forum in that list at the top of the page) and see if you can find someone nearby with a walkera 4 channel radio system. This could be a Walkera 4, ufly, 4g3, 5-6… any walkera that is 4 channel. You can test your heli with a different transmitter and your transmitter on a different heli. Don’t try to fly someone elses heli, have them hold it while you walk away, then you hold yours while they walk away

phmurphy

Thanks Karlik,
Great advice and info on the Extent/Sensitivity. I will start with a look at the antenna connection. Ihave a hand lens and will take a good look at it. Ihave pleanty of crashes that could have affected it. Iuse scotch tape on the canopy so that shouldn't be an issue. No carbon fiber in the canopy, although the original green canopy had a windshield that looked like carbon fiber. Idon't have access to another transmitter, so the next step may be to buy a whole new Falcon V2. Ihope one of the other issues is the answer.

Thanks again,
Pat

dknovick

Gaaaa, did not mean to be away for this long. Work & home sucked up all my free time the last two months.

Hope everyone received what they wanted, and not what they needed! (or both, I'm easy).

-Dave

alaska42

New to the forum.
I have had a Falcon 40 for about 3 months. I am becoming a good mechanic on it and have stocked up on spares. I can hover tail in for an entire Li-Po battery, but crashes are worse as I practice higher.
A couple weeks ago the motor, even at full power would not lift the helicopter. Swapped motors and same thing. Swapped batteries same thing. Measured voltage out of battery...8.4V. Measured going to motor...8.4 at full throttle. Turning main gear, it looks like it might be stripped on the main shaft going to the rotor head. Is this common? Do I need a new rotor head or main gear with shaft?

Thanks,
Mike
BTW, the main motor I ordered from Exceed had the sticker over the vent hole.

o6298

If the rotor head is spinning while you hold the main gear. The small pin on the rotor head may be missing. This pin goes through the rotor head and shaft.
Also, itsbeenmy experience that the main blades could bedamaged. They may look fine and track fine but the pitch is off and so they might need to be replaced.
Chech the main gear for wear and that the motor isn't loose. You can order a main gear from https://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?products_id=31
Some people use a paper to set the gap between the gears.

alaska42

Thanks for the input. As I looked at it closer, the pin was there but spinning the blades was not moving the main gear. The shaft was moving at the blades so I looked on the bottom and the set screw at the bottom, holding the shaft to the main gear, was loose.

Thanks again, I am sure I will be asking more questions!

Mike

Disney1

That is a common problem ,I had to use Lock-Tite on mine to keep it secure.

o6298

Be carefull with that set screw in the main gear. I have damaged my by over tightening it.

imacamper

I'm trying to track down a problem.  Let me see if I can describe it in a way that makes sense.  When I'm hovering level and still (main rotor blades parallel with the ground), my heli is stable.  However when the heli starts to drift and I correct with cyclic (now the main blades are no longer parallel), the helicopter "wobbles".  I can feel this same behavior if I hold the helicopter and throttle up.  If I hold it with the main blades level with the ground, it's smooth.  But if I tip the helicopter in any direction, I can feel the "wobble".

I've looked for loose stuff, checked for cracks, etc.  Main blades are balanced.  I've triple checked that the flybar is centered (both with measuring tape and just checking balance with main blades removed).

It didn't used to do this so something isn't right.  I'm surely missing something.  Has anyone else experienced this?  Any ideas on where I should look more carefully?

Thanks,

Drew

phmurphy

Ihad this problem with my Falcon V1 and I think it was due to too much weight. Ireplaced the cnc upgrades and superskids with the parts from the V2 and that greatly reduced the wobble. If you haven't added weight since it worked right before, that may not be the problem. Iam sure there are other sources for the wobble like the loose lock screw on the main shaft/main gear, or the paddles aren't lined up right with each other.

Pat

Yellow Crow

My Feedback: (1)

I had this problem with a V1. It like to drove me nuts. If you have a new one try replacing the blade grip. I know that it may feel good and you cant see any cracks or anything else, but just try it. On mine, there was just a little slack on one side where it snapped over the bearing. This was almost undetectable, but it was there.

Jim

imacamper

Thanks guys. The only extra weight is training gear so Idon't think that's it.

I have another blade grip on order so Iwill try that when it arrives. Well actually Ihave a spare aluminum one for my Walkera UFLY (nice and stable BTW) but I'm going to save that. In fact, the reason Ihave spare plastic head parts on order is that I've learned that the metal ones on the UFLY bend very easily in crashes and are quite expensive. Iordered the plastic parts to put on the UFLY while I'm trying to learn controlled slow forward flight.

I'll report back once Ihave a chance to try it.

Also open to any other ideas in the meantime.

Thanks,

Drew

imacamper

I was looking at the parts list for the v2.  What's the difference between the "rotor head" and the "rotor head core"?  Does a rotor head include the core?  Would someone please enlighten me?

Thanks,

Drew

P.S. Still waiting on the blade holders.  I did find the lock screw on the bottom of the main gear loose.  I've tightened but still have the wobble.

phmurphy

If it is shaped like a Y then it is the V1 rotor head and called a rotor head core. If what you need is the V2 rotor head, it looks like it hasa metal pin through it. That isfor the V2 and has a separate set of blade holders. If you use this xheli site http://www.xheli.com/falcon40parts.htmlthe rotor head (50H01-01-1)for the V2 is the first item. It does also fits on the V1, and I like it a lot better than the oldY shaped core(50H01-14).

Pat

imacamper

OK, thanks. Iwonder why xheli has a v1 part on the v2 page? Icouldn't figure out the difference or even where that "rotor head core" would go on my v2.

Thanks,

Drew

SonnySalleh

Disney1

Hey guys US Hobby Supply has frames v1/v2 10 for $10
https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...oducts_id=1042

dditch

I wonder if your wobble is induced by the training gear. Is the training gear loose?

Anyone here have one of the new Walkera Flybarless helis? I'm debating my falcon 40 (need of bigtime repairs), flybarless fixed pitch or my CP 450 with a buddy box to help train my son outside.

phmurphy

HI all,
A comment and a question. Iordered a new receiver for the V2, RX2421 from HeliPal.com two days ago. Ijust got the following response:

nascarfaad

Here is a link that we can use to easily address the FAA situation with our hobby. AMA has made it super easy to do. It is circulating on the IMAC and other sites. amagov.modelaircraft.org/4077/this-...to-action/
    We all need our voices to be heard. The AMA has letters prewritten... it takes less that a minute. Just put in your zip and fill out your personal info. I am the 98th person from Tennessee to do this!

Tell Congress to Protect Model Aviation

Disney1

Here is the full link
http://amagov.modelaircraft.org/4077/

Also you should post a new thread on RCUand Heli Freak

I am the 606 from Florida to send the letter.

phmurphy

AH HAAAA,
I figured out what was toasting my RX. It was one of the servos. I got a new servo from rtf-heli and was just doing a connection test before hardwiring the fuses. the motors were working fine, then Iconnected the servos and Istarted to smell that bad electric smell. Iquickly disconnected the power. Ithen got the old RX which Ihadn't used a hammer on yet and connected the servos one by one. One of the servos immediately heated up the RX. Igot a replacement servo and all is well. Imay even be able to use the old TX, but it will be a while before Itest it. Has anyone heard of this before, and do you suppose there is a need for fuses on the servo too?

Pat