Greg Covey

E-flite’s new [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFL8075]Habu 32 DF ARF[/link] takes ducted fan performance and engineering to new heights with a combination of the E-flite Delta-V® 32 80mm power system and the first Platinum Series E-flite® DF design. The Platinum Series delivers superior, enhanced features and meticulous attention to detail!

Powered by the the E-flite Delta-V® 32 80mm fan unit and 2150Kv DF32 brushless motor , its hyper-efficient intake and exhaust ducting allows this potent combo to produce large amounts of thrust when powered with a high-C 6S Li-Po pack. The Habu 32 DF ARF includes full intake and exhaust ducting resulting in a sport EDF with exhilarating speed!

The Habu 32 DF also boasts a level of fit and finish that is every bit as impressive as its performance. Its sleek fiberglass fuselage comes pre-painted and integrates the vertical stabilizer. The fully-sheeted wings and horizontal stabilizers are reinforced with carbon blade spars and covered with genuine UltraCote®. The control surfaces are already pre-hinged for you! Just add the optional E-flite electric retracts (sold separately), and you've got a sport jet that truly stands out from the crowd.

Specifications:[ul][*] Wing Span: 40.5 in (1030mm)[*] Wing Area: 392 sq in (25.3 sq dm)[*] Overall Length: 49.5 in (1250mm) [*]Flying Weight: 7.05 - 7.40 lb (3.20 - 3.35 kg)[*]Motor Size: DF 32 Brushless Motor, 2150Kv[*]Speed Control : 80 Amp brushless[*]Recommended Battery: 6S 22.2V 5000mAh 30C LiPo, 10AWG, EC5[*]Recommended Radio: 5+ Channel Radio system[*]Servos: Micro Servos (8 required)[*]Assembly Time: 10-15 Hours[/ul]Features:[ul][*] Painted fiberglass fuselage and vertical stabilizer[*]Sheeted balsa wings and horizontal stabilizers covered in genuine UltraCote[*]Wings and Stabilizers are removable using carbon blade spars and aluminum sockets for easy transport[*]Pre-hinged control surfaces and Flap Ready[*]Hyper-efficient duct design - no cheater holes[*]Bolt-on compatibility with E-flite Delta-V 32 Power System (sold separately)[*]Ready for E-flite 15-25 Size Electric Retracts (sold separately)[*]Machined aluminum wheels[*]Optional landing gear doors included[*]Access hatch for the fan unit and a canopy hatch for easy battery access[*]Quick-release access hatch/cockpit deck[/ul]

Greg Covey

The Habu 32 parts are well protected in its custom box. Each component was sealed in plastic and I found no damage or scratches on any part.

I was elated to find all the control surfaces pre-hinged and ready to accept servos. Most of the decals have been pre-applied and a separate decal sheet is provided for final detailing. The 56-page manual is loaded with step-by-step instructions, clear photos, and E-tips for a successful assembly. It is also available on-line [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/EFL8075_Habu_EDF_Manua.pdf]here[/link].

The ARF comes with fixed gear mains and machined aluminum wheels with rubber tires. I'll be using the optional E-flite 15-25 size electric retracts in my review.

Greg Covey

A closer look at the fuselage reveals why the E-flite Platinum Series delivers superior, enhanced features and meticulous attention to detail.

The quick-release hatch makes swapping out batteries and accessing electronics easy. The sleek fiberglass fuselage comes pre-painted with an integrated vertical stabilizer. It also features an optimized intake and exhaust design that maximizes fan thrust without requiring cheater holes. The built-up wings attach to the fuselage using carbon fiber blade spars that can handle the incredible speeds and G-loads the Habu 32 DF is capable of.

Greg Covey

The recommended parts for completion are as follows. Note that the 80-Amp Pro Switch-Mode BEC Brushless ESC, EC5 (V2) version addresses the BEC issue in the original version. The E-flite Pro-series ESCs also have a fail-safe On/Off switch. If the switch fails, the ESC stays on.[ul][*] E-flite Delta-V (R) 32 [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLDF32]80mm EDF Unit[/link][*] E-flite [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLM3032DFA]BL32[/link] Ducted Fan Motor (2150Kv)[*] E-flite 80-Amp Pro Switch-Mode BEC [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLA1080B]Brushless ESC V2[/link][*] E-flite 5000mAh 6S 22.2V 30C [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLB50006S30]LiPo Pack[/link][*] Spektrum [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMAR8000]AR8000[/link] 8-Channel DSMX Receiver[*] 7 JR Sport [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=JSP20030]MC35[/link] Micro Servos[*] 1 JR [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRPS368BB]DS368BB[/link] Servo for rudder[/ul]

Greg Covey

The assembly begins by gluing the control horns to all the control surfaces. This can normally be a fair amount of work but E-flite made it easy with pre-cut slots in the control surfaces and fiberglass control horns. After sanding the bottom portion of the horns, they were secured with 5-minute epoxy.

Greg Covey

The aileron and flap servo installation comes next. The only issue I had here was the residue that the cellophane tape left that was holding the servo covers in place. I used some CA Debonder to remove the residue.

I didn't have any 3" servo lead extensions for the aileron servo leads so I used 6" extensions. Instead of gluing the servo blocks with 5-minute epoxy, I used medium CA.

All the parts fit well and the hardware shown was included in the kit. E-flite did a good job on detailing which servo arm and position to connect the linkage.

Greg Covey

The carbon wing spars were sanded and glued to the wings after first checking the fit for orientation. There is a good tip in the manual for adding petroleum jelly to the fuselage area around the wing socket to prevent glue from transferring during the final fit process.

The removable wings are held to the fuselage by two 8-32 socket head bolts on each side.

I found the manual instructions and parts fit to both be excellent. If the wing doesn't fit flush with the fuselage, try using a #10 washer on the back pin to keep the leading edge flush with the fuselage. On my model, the left wing fit perfect while the right wing needed the washer.

Greg Covey

The E-flite Habu 32 is slightly larger than the ParkZone Habu. The older foam model was a great design that introduced many modelers to EDF. Although I typically hand toss my PZ Habu without the gear installed, it takes less than 5 minutes to change it over to fixed gear with a steerable nose wheel.

My plan is to fly both stock versions off pavement for a comparison.

drifter

My Feedback: (53)

Greg,
Do you think it is practical for a grass bound modeler to launch the "32" via bungee?
I have heard of one individual who bungee launched his.

If possible, what kind of launch thrust (in pounds) would be necessary?

PH

Greg Covey

PH,

While it is always possible to launch a model by using a bungee, it is not always necessary. I believe that the Habu 32 will take off grass without issue. My plan is to test the stock Habu 32 on both pavement and grass. The original stock PZ Habu EDF takes off grass on the stock gear mains.

As for bungee launch thrust, a typical goal is to have a pull about 3 times the weight of the plane.

Regards.

Greg Covey

My E-flite electric retracts are on backorder so I skipped that step for now and moved on to the rudder servo. The JR DS368BB digital servo fit perfectly in the bay. The servo presses in place and is then held by the white plastic strap.

I used a 24" extension here instead of the recommended 18" extension because that was all I had on hand. The rudder servo bay is well designed and I had no issue with the installation.

It took me longer to clean the goop off the fuselage than it did to install the rudder servo. I used a combination of Goo-Gone and Bob Smith Un-Cure to remove the residue from the cellophane tape used to hold the hatch on for shipping. I would like to see E-flite pack the aileron and rudder hatches separately and not tape them to the fuselage and wings.

Instead of taping the rudder servo hatch back in place, I tacked it in position using a tiny amount of medium CA.

Greg Covey

The stabilizer spar installation was similar to the wing installation in that it used carbon spars for alignment and they are both removable. When I glued the spars to the stabilizers, I made sure that the stab was forced up to favor no gap when viewed from the top of the plane. The result is a very clean look that enhances the hidden hinging and control cables.

Although the fit of the stab onto the fuselage required some forcing, the instructions and photos in the manual worked perfectly.

Greg Covey

The elevator halves are controlled by two servos in the center of the fuselage connected by well-supported sleeved pushrods. A custom pushrod support is assembled for each side and the rods connect to the control horns and servo arms without any bending or cutting.

Once centered by a live radio system, all the 2mm locking nuts were tightened in place after applying some threadlocker to the control rod threads. The well fitting parts and supporting hardware has made this an easy assembly.

gr8taz nitro

My Feedback: (7)

Just a tip when you go to install the retracts into the wings, don't use the stock screws. They are too soft and multiple people have had them actually break in the wood blocks trying to use them. I would recommend replacing them with something stronger. I didn't listen and had to drill out one of the screws when it broke flush with the wood.

Greg Covey

Thanks for the tip! They should be easy to replace with some "real metal" equivalents.

I also see that TamJets has a new [link=http://www.tamjets.com/original/product_info.php?cPath=75&products_id=584]E-Flite 80mm Dynamic Balance rotor[/link] and true precision shaft upgrade available. Although Tam struggles with the English language and spelling, he is a good vendor to order from and provides status on every step of the order. Having a properly balanced rotor and adapter can not only improve performance but it will lengthen the life of the motor.

Thanks again and keep those tips coming...

Greg Covey

My E-flite [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLG230]15 - 25 Tricycle Electric Retracts[/link] arrived today so I got started on cutting away the covering on the wing bottom side. Note that the wheel wells are already installed in the Habu 32.

Greg Covey

When assembling and installing the fan unit, care and patience are required to ensure that it is done correctly. A well-balanced rotor and adapter can make your EDF perform better, run more quiet with less vibration, and help with motor longevity. If you are not comfortable with balancing your rotor or checking for a proper adapter center, other options are available from [link=http://www.tamjets.com/original/product_info.php?cPath=75&products_id=584]TamJets[/link].

I balanced my rotor using a Dubro [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DUB499]Tru-Spin Prop Balancer[/link]. By using an iterative process of sanding heavy blades and clear spray paint on the lighter blades, you can obtain a reasonable balance. Since the adapter is mounted onto the motor first, before mounting the motor in the DF unit, it is a good idea to run the motor lightly and check for any wobble on the spinning adapter.

One key issue in providing proper assembly is to mount the fan fairing so that the motor wires come out on the side of the fan unit with the E-flite label. When mounting the fan unit, care must be taken to make sure that it sits properly inside the fiberglass intake ducts. Likewise, when mounting the Mylar exhaust tube, the tube must reside outside the DF unit but inside the framework. I taped my exhaust tube in place using 3M clear tape.

The exhaust tube can be trimmed on the back of the model, if desired, using curve hobby scissors. I added some 3M Scotchcal silver trim tape for added detail.

Greg Covey

The main retracts installed fairly easily but I did have some issues with the wheel hub adapters. The wire struts that come with the E-flite 15 - 25 Tricycle Electric Retracts are replaced with the stock wire struts. A Dremel tool is required to cut off the end of the strut (about 1/8") so that it fits flush in the well. I didn't have a 3" servo lead extension so I used a 6" extension.

Although the adapters seemed to spin well on the axle when I first selected the right size (you get three sets of three sizes in the kit), they would no longer spin once inserted into either side of the wheel hub. I needed to carefully drill and sand the inner diameter of the wheel so that it would spin freely but not be too sloppy.

Note: The tip here would be to first drill the aluminum wheel itself slightly larger so that the adapter goes in with just a small press.

Other than the issue above, the electric retracts worked very well and the mounts were rock solid. E-flite includes rubber wheels with aluminum hubs which look great on the Habu 32!

Note: Some folks have reported that the stock screws can snap the heads off when securing the gear mains. They can be replaced, if needed, with stainless steel #4 x 5/8" Philips flat head wood screws.

Greg Covey

The nose gear retract installation also requires you to swap the stock wire strut with the one that comes in the Habu 32 kit. I must have had a burr on the grub screw holding the stock wire on the retract because it would not come out, requiring it be drilled out. Perhaps E-flite could offer the 15 - 25 Tricycle Electric Retracts without wire struts as an option.

Once the desired strut was installed, I installed the steering servo and all went well as described in the manual. I had the same issue with the wheel hub adapters as before and needed to sand them out so the wheel would spin freely.

After the retract is installed, the nose gear cover is screwed back in place. I needed to trim the cover a bit to prevent it from hitting the coil when steering the nose wheel. Although I programmed my JR 9503 to disable nose steering when in the up position, it is not required due to the design of the Tricycle Electric Retracts. The long cover sides were then taped to help secure it to the fuselage.

E-flite also supplies a solid nose gear door for those that want to build a fully functional nose gear door. I will defer that option as well as the wheel pants until after I have a few flights on it.

icicles

Awesome work, good stuff,nice detailed information, keep it up

Thanks

Chris

jesses151

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Greg,
I'm looking to put the 80mm Eflite set up into a large 70mm plane and was wondering if you could tell me what the exitdiameter is onthe thrust tube? Or whatEflite recommends..
-Jesse

Greg Covey

Thanks, Chris.

Jesse,

The exit diameter at the tailcone of the Habu 32 is 66mm.

Greg Covey

The receiver installation was pretty much by the manual. You need plenty of Y-harnesses and extensions for the Habu 32. I used 12" extensions and a Y-harness for the flaps, ailerons, and elevators. The E-flite 15 - 25 Tricycle Electric Retracts comes with a nice triple harness so you can plug all three retracts into the Gear channel. I used small black cable ties to secure the wires into groups and then secured them to the plywood posts that are on both insides of the fuselage. The cables were routed under the battery bay to the far side and I used foam wedges in between the ducting and fuselage top to keep them secure.

I labeled both ends of each servo cable using green 3M Scotch masking tape. I also use it to secure extensions together. This tape sticks very well and can be found in most automotive or hardware stores. I haven't decided yet if I will keep the wings on or remove them for storage.

Greg Covey

This is not something that E-flite recommends but I always add a 100ohm, 1 watt anti-spark resistor to my applications of 6s or higher. The E-flite battery is first connected to the ESC and then the final arming connection is done by touching the resistor lead to the bullet connector just before plugging it in. The result is spark-free arming. I keep a foam cap on the male bullet connector until I am ready to arm the plane.

Since the canopy hatch ball is threaded, it is best to dab some thread-locker on it so that it doesn't vibrate free in flight.

My pack is shown in a position where it aligns with the back of the battery platform which results is a CG of 115mm from the leading edge. It is well secured in place using hook and loop strips on the bottom as well as a strap. This is the stock configuration and all the material is supplied.

Although my Habu 32 is almost complete, I do not see any air flow exit for the battery and ESC. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Greg Covey

Before I completed the last fuselage assembly step on the Habu 32, which is securing the bottom hatch, I noticed that the air flow exit from the battery bay is through the center of the intake ducts. Horizon has assured me that the E-flite 80-Amp Pro Switch-Mode V2 ESC will not have any problems with overheating when positioned as shown in the manual.

E-flite also recommends programming the ESC to match the cell count of your battery pack, which is 6s on the stock setup. The procedure is as follows:[ul][*] Set throttle stick to full[*] Turn on transmitter, then receiver[*] After 5 sec and two sets of ring tones, move stick to center [*] ESC will beep 1 time for menu 1, which is the cell count menu[*] Move throttle stick to full, then back to center after the low tone[*] Move the stick back to full and wait for the number of beeps for your cell count[*] Move stick to center when your cell count is heard.[*] The controller will beep 2 times, indicating you have set the program selection[*] Power down receiver and move throttle stick to lower off position[/ul]
I sealed the leading edge of the bottom hatch with clear tape and marked the CG location ranges from 100mm to 115mm in 5mm increments.