tim wan

Dear All,

The following link is come from other forum of captioned product for sharing with all of you.
The specification of our T-33 or P-80
Wingspan : 1683mm
Fuselage length: 1520mm
AUW : 3.7kg up
EDF : 90 or 120mm
Power : 9S - 10S for 90mm / 12S for 120mm
Function : Flaps system - standard
Air-Brake systme - option
Metal Electric retract & scale suspension struts - standard
Gear Doors System - option
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...438632&page=37

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGqAeZkR4ZU<o></o>

brad59

My Feedback: (32)

Is there a dealer who can sell me this plane in Thailand?
Brad

tim wan

[quote]ORIGINAL: brad59

Is there a dealer who can sell me this plane in Thailand?
Brad
[/quote

Dear Brad,

Thanks for your interesting of our products.
Pls contact with Mr. Nakarin<[email protected]> who is our dealer in Thailand / Bangkok.

BRs,
Tim

Larry Dudeck

My Feedback: (1)

What are the materials of construction?

Any U.S. dealers?

If not, what are the shipping costs from China?

tim wan

Thanks for your interesting of our products.
She it taken EPO material.
Pls locate our US dealers information from our website "www.rclander.com" home page left lower conrner.

BRs,
Tim

Hokie Flyer

Larry,

I believe Electric Jet Factory is selling the T-33 in the US.


Rob

Greg Covey

EJF seems to sell only one color scheme with retracts [link=http://www.ejf.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_204&products_id=919]here[/link] for $390.

[link=http://parkrcmodels.com/product_info.php?products_id=935]Park RC Models[/link] sells all variants including the base model for $240.

[link=http://shop.rc-electric-jets.com/Electric-Jets_c21.htm?page=all]Fan Jets USA[/link] also sells them.

nakarinp

Dear Brad,
I am Nakarin from ORA Thailand, who is RClander Dealer in thailand. Please mail me your requirement to set up this plane for you then I can quote you the custom figure T-33 for you....any option you need for this T-33 please let me know and mail to me at [email protected]
Regards

Greg Covey

Hi Tim,

When you order the T-33 model, does it comes with both mounting options for either a 90mm or 120mm fan unit?

Can you post more information on your testing the T-33 with the 120mm fan unit?

Regards.

tim wan

Dear Greg,

If the order mentioned come with both of 90 & 120mm fan related bay units that we can put it together (just add a litle bit cost).
Pls search RCLander T-33 / P-80 flying video where is some 120mm size testing video.

BRs,
Tim

ACES&8s

The material is EPO? 350 dollars? basic? NOT

Parkflying

This is a really huge Jet. The material is the RCLander Factory version of a special EPO that holds paint really well. The basic jet without any electronics or EDF unit is selling for around $240. Additional options like Heavy Duty Metal Base Electric Retracts and other options can raise the cost.

Regards
Max
www.parkrcmodels.com

Parkflying

Just to clarify Tim's comment here as often the meaning gets lost in translation. When ordering from your dealer you should specify that you need the 90mm or 120mm mounting blocks. The jet does not ship with both mounting sets. Although he mentions a small additional cost for the 120mm blocks, we really haven't noticed a factory upcharge for this option.

Here is a video of the RCLander T-33 flying with the 120mm EDF unit
[link=http://youtu.be/X4nSas6Pd3o]RCLander T-33 Flying with 120mm EDF[/link]

Regards

Max
www.parkrcmodels.com

Parkflying

Questions on the material and US Dealers have been answered below; so I will tackle the shipping costs question.
On average we are seeing the shipping costs from China to North America to be about $120 USD. This carton is huge,
measuring over 48" x 16" x 23" and weighing anywhere from 17 pounds to as much as 25 pounds, depending on the options
shipped with the carton. The 90mm EDF unit or 120mm from RCLander can be factory installed and shipped with the carton.
For most shipments of the T-33 from the RCLander Factory to the USA, the $120 cost is the normal average fee.

Regards
Max
www.parkrcmodels.com

Greg Covey

Max,

Thanks for the information and video links.

Initially, I didn't see the DF mount options on your site because there is a display issue on that page using FireFox. I switched to IE8 and the page displayed fine with all the options.

This is indeed a product with many options! My plan is to use a Lander 120mm DF on 12s in the Thunderbird scheme T-33.

When you order the 120mm mounting blocks, is there a change to the thrust tube size? I don't see the 90mm thrust tube in the manual parts section until it shows up on step 36 of page 17. Perhaps it comes as a flat sheet of Mylar.

Regards.

Greg Covey

My RC Lander T-33 arrived today. It was fast and friendly service from Max at [link=http://parkrcmodels.com/product_info.php?products_id=935]Park RC Models[/link]. Although I plan this to be a winter project, I couldn't help opening the box for a look. I wasn't expecting such excellent packing and it took quite a while just to unpack a few items.

Not only was the plane box surrounded by a thick outer box for shipping, it was reinforced with a stiff cardboard fold to keep it from crushing. All the parts were protected by foam wrap and sealed in bags. The kit comes with a set of decals, dual pilots, and a spare canopy. Plus, you get touch up paint for all the model colors!

All the parts I opened looked perfect and I was very happy with the quality. I finally got to the fuselage and had to stop for dinner. I'll take more photos over the next week.

Greg Covey

Although I worked late today, I made it to the second layer of the box. The wings had split flaps with all the servos pre-installed for the elevator, flap, and electric retracts. The control wires were also appropriately labeled and the servo arms were protected by foam blocks.

Greg Covey

The T-33 assembly starts with the bottom half of the fuselage nose. I was happy to see how much assembly was already completed so the pre-installation goes beyond what is in the manual. All the plywood joints were well glued and my pre-installed electric nose retract, strut, wheel, and gear door all worked perfectly!

Since I will mostly be flying off grass, I felt a few modifications were needed. The grass can be rough on nose gear and steering mechanisms so I replaced the stock plastic clevis with a 4-40 steel clevis and thicker control rod. To aid in how the rod slides through the clear plastic air wall, I added a nylon sleeve bushing.

Both the battery platform and the nose gear platform bent slightly under pressure so I epoxied some added support in place. Although the battery strap is supplied, the white Velcro is not supplied in the kit.

My nose assembly was well strengthened and ready to attach to the fuselage.

Greg Covey

I decided to try some Beacon Foam-Tac to glue my T-33 together. It seems safe for all types of foam and is easy to apply. You simply spread it on both sides to be glued, wait a few minutes, and press the pieces together. It dries strong, clear, and flexible.

To help hold the foam pieces together while drying, I used some strips of cotton cloth tied around the fuselage.

algutkin

My Feedback: (1)

Greg,

Check the CA hinges, make sure they are firmly attached, some are already glued, some are not. Mine is ready for maiden. but I am worried about the nose steering. Had to cancel the takeoff after not heeding the advise of Corsair Nut on RCG.

The plane is a beauty and I'm sure you will make plenty of mods to make it even better. Looking forward to your build.

Al

Greg Covey

Hi Al,

Thanks for the tip! I did check out the RCG thread and learned plenty from the members that already built one. For me, it is a winter project so I can take some time building it. The T-33 is a unique large foam plane design by Tim. Good luck on your maiden!

- - - - - - - - - - - - -

The next step was to glue the air intake pieces together and then into the plane. After the glue dries, the side panels follow. It's nice to have an old soft sofa to work on so the finish doesn't get rash. The Beacon Foam-Tac has worked very well so far.

Before gluing the side panels, I positioned my DF in place and drilled pilot holes for the metal ring mount. The bottom half of the foam insert was then glued to the fuselage before mounting the side panels. I'll be using the older Lander 120mm DF which I'll detail later. The T-33 can be fitted for either 90mm or 120mm DFs.

Greg Covey

I experimented with a technique to reduce the seams on the T-33. The first photo shows the "before" look and the second photo shows the seam filled with a line of BVM V-poxy. It dries clear and very hard so there will be no chipping along the seam. The third photo shows it re-painted by brush with the supplied paints.

It seems that the touch-up paints are pre-thinned to be used in an air brush so I had to apply several coats. I may try using some Testors gloss enamel paint to see if I get a better coverage. The technique isn't perfect but it greatly reduces the seam between the glued parts.

Greg Covey

The last step before starting the tail section is to glue the air intake vents into place. There is a left and right vent to install.

The odd looking Thunderbird logo on the fuselage bottom will be replaced with a scale vinyl version from Callie Graphics. I will cover this later in the build. [link=http://www.callie-graphics.com/]Callie Graphics[/link] has a complete set of scale vinyl decals for the RC Lander T-33 Thunderbird scheme.

Greg Covey

The T-33 can be powered by a 90mm to 120mm EDF. I'll be using the older RC Lander 120mm DF that used an inrunner motor. The unit has since been upgraded for more power using a higher Kv outrunner motor. I believe that the only difference between the two versions is the motor change.

After crashing in a previous project, I tested the 120 DF unit on my test stand and it still ran as smooth as before. On a 12s 3200mAh setup, it provides about 2900 watts. I guessed at the pole count of 4 so the RPM reading may not be correct. On a 10lb T-33, I'll get around 290w/lb with about 10.5lbs of thrust measured without any exhaust tube.

Greg Covey

I decided to complete the tail assembly before moving on to the wing. It made it easier to work with and I was confident that all the servos and linkage worked properly before gluing the assembly to the fuselage.

The vertical stab was glued to the horizontal stab after first cutting a slot for the rudder servo control wire to pass through. Likewise, another slot is needed in the tail fuselage before gluing the stabs in place.

The four carbon support rods were a bit long to properly fit in the fuselage channels so I marked them with green tape before cutting them shorter with a Dremel tool. The tail assembly really started to look nice!

Per Al's suggestion, I tested the control surfaces and found the the hinges to be glued only on the control surface side. This also was the case on my flaps but not my ailerons. The Beacon Foam-Tac worked very well on the hinges. I simply coated them with some Foam-Tac using a plastic baggie and then pressed them into position. The glue dries clear and flexible so the rudder and elevators worked perfectly. The glue spreads well with Latex gloves too, so I often spread a thin layer onto the areas to be glued and then press them in place. Most of the T-33 pieces fit like a puzzle so they easily self-align.

The supplied control horns are great for foam because they simply press into place and do not disturb the opposite surface. In this manner, they provide a cleaner look to the model. That being said, it is very important to secure the horn with a second gluing after they have first been glued in place. The second gluing distributes the load onto a larger part of the surface. I used the Beacon Foam-Tac for the initial gluing into position. I then coated the horn and surrounding area with BVM V-poxy. The V-poxy dries clear and very hard. It is thick and will not run so it stays where you put it. The final step was to paint the control horn base white.

I used the supplied control rods and clevis but I added my own rubber keepers made from fuel line. This helps insure that the clevis doesn't accidentally disconnect from the control horn. It appeared that the center hole on each control horn was properly drilled to mate with the clevis so this was the hole I used on the rudder and elevator linkages.

The Testor's Gloss Enamel kit (# 9115) seems to be a good match for all the T-33 colors except for the blue. I have been using the blue paint supplied with the T-33.