MUSIC PUBLISHER

I just started r/c planes earlier this year and would like to inform/help anyone thinking of getting into this hobby.Before you even order a r/c plane,do yourself a favor and search around your area for an adequate place to fly.It must be a LARGE are free of trees lamposts cars etc.Your local school yard will not do the trick..trust me {unless it has several acres of playground space in which all the trees have been cutdown}.the reason looking for a place to fly is so important is because if you havnet found it ahead of time,you will wind up getting your plane and rushing to fly it in the 1st open area you find..which will more then likely be inadequate in terms of space and obstructions.This will lead to many crashes/damages to the airplane that are unneccesary and very upsetting/irritating.This is the number 1 reason newbies to this hobby give up on their initial try.If you do find a perfect spot to fly,you will need to understand that this hobby can {and more then likely} will get expensive{ repairs/parts for crashed planes..wanting to consistently buy a newer and more challenging plane..etc. and very frustrating at times { not being able to fly when you want because of windy days,rain.waiting for spare parts to be shipped out.etc.}.As far as the "best begginers r/c plane..I realize that the slow stick has the most votes..but that has to be asseembled..and for me personally,I dont want to spend several days building my 1st plane..then when im finished have to wait for a day that has the perfect weather to fly..then take the plane out and on my 1st attempt crash[ which will happen 95% of the time to newbies} only to have to spend another week fixing the plane and or ordering parts.I would much rather buy a RTF like the T-HAWK..and be ready to fly the day it comes to my house {weather permitting}.Furthermore..the T-HAWK is very tuff..and flies very easily {even for a newbie} and one also has the advantage of using it more as a slow glider or a faster r/c plane..which the slow stick does not offer this choice right out of the box...One other very important factor to consider is the slowstick has a front mounted propeller which will usually take the brunt of impact in a crash damaging not only the propeeler..but the motor and or motor shaft..while the T-HAWK {and other rtf"s} have a rear mounted propeller ..helping to keep damage to a bare minimum.Like I initially said..these are my opinions to help newbies..I sure hope I dont recieve tons of replies from slow stick enthusiasts who think im putting down their plane..We all know the slowstick is probably the most popular r/c plane around..but for newbies I dont think its the best/most economical choice...Oh..and I forgot to say..when everything goes right with r/c planes..they are a blast..

NotAnAceYet

My Feedback: (9)

Rumme - I taught myself to fly with the T-Hawk and I agree with you. It's a great plane to learn with as it's real tough. Your recommendation for a "Large" area to fly is justified as the T-Hawk does need space!

Larry

TenTen

I agree with you. I have learned o fly with a Aerobird Challenger which is a tough and easy to fly plane with the same configuration as the T-Hawk, except from the V-tail.

My first attempts were with an Accipter Badius, a very cheap electric glider with a front mounted propeller, which was a complete disaster. I spent most of my time waiting for spare parts, especially propellers and motors which were easy damaged after every hard landing and crash.

The fact that you can not move the radio gear of the Aerobird to another plane is true but you can always keep the plane to teach a friend to fly!

milky

when we hand launch the airplane, what is the position of the elevator? is it up or down? is the stick toward you or away from you?
thank you

TenTen

The elevator must be at the natural position (at the center) and the throttle at the full position. You must launch the plane always in the wind (the opposite direction than the direction the wind is blowing) and toss the plane straight, not up or down. The plane might drop a bit until it gain some speed but it should start to climb afterwords.

milky

i have a 3 channel airplane (rudder, elevator, and rudder) however it doesnt has ESC. the throtle can only be turned on and off by the switch.
now, couls anyone please tell me how do i manage that? because on the airplane with ESC, climbing and descending can be controled.
thx heaps

milky

im the beginner, i just bought the 4 channel electric plane (throtle, elevator, rudder, aileron) but im not confidence yet to try four channel (still flying 3 channel now). could i fly the 4 channel as the 3 channel (without the aileron)???
do i have to take the servo off? or simply just don;t touch the aileron stick?
i know this questin sounds stupid, but i need a help...
thx

milky

whic one to buy for the very very very beginner, never had any experience before? firebird scout? firebird outlaw? firebird commander? firebird II, or firebird XL? what are their major differences?

MUSIC PUBLISHER

NEITHER..in my opinoion..T-HAWK..go to readytoflyfun.com ..and check it out..best value around..flys great..and durable as hell...great service from the manufacturer too...

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I would not recommend flying the 4 channel plane as a 3 channel. MOST 3 channel planes have a lot more dihedrahl (the amount the wing tips on the main wing are above level) than 4 channel planes. The added dihedrahl provides additional stability.

Using ailerons is NORMALLY not a problem. Adjust the ailerons for minimal throw to start with and you should be OK.

The difference is:

A 3 channel plane uses the rudder only to turn. The turns are normally pretty flat - there is little if any tilting of the main wing.

A 4 channel plane PRIMARILY uses the ailerons to turn. Note that some planes will require rudder input also to make the turn smooth.

The ailerons cause the plane to bank (tilt the main wing at an angle). Until you get used to this you will need to be careful. When you bank the main wing you loose lift and the plane will slow down and the nose will drop a little. You will also find that you frequently need to add a LITTLE up elevator to keep the nose of the plane level.

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

If you watch your rudder plane, you'll notice that it also banks in a turn. With enough dihedral, rudder rolls are possible.

Realistically speaking, you won't notice much difference in the way an aileron plane flies versus a rudder plane. Aileronaphobia, the fear of ailerons , is an irrational fear. What you definitely do NOT want to do is disable the ailerons. Without the dihedral, the rudder won't cause the plane to bank properly on rudder only.

milky

how helpful is the flight simulator? will it help the newbie?

please check out this link and let me know what u think.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....tem=5940164843

milky

please change the star sign with e b a y

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

the flight simulator is very helpful but it has limits .I just bougt the aerofly and love it..I bought it essentially to learn hovering and some 3D manuvers..at least I wont crah and wipe out my new profile just yet..but like I said the sim helps but it's not a substitute for learning with a good trainer and buddy box..I suggest to all newbies if you have a rc field nearby or a know a field where pilots hang out go there and ask for help..while the park flyers suggest a school yard hopefully it has acres of hallowed ground better known as football fields..but just because its electric and relatively slow dont think you can just go out and fly in a small place with spectators about ..my point go to a safe place designed to fly and let an experienced pilot train you if at all possible..