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  1. #1

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    GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Hello

    I'm new to electric flying and I just bought a GWS E-Starter and I have a few questions. I bought the GWS Dream Starter II Radio package along with it, and I am not sure everything matches up between the radio system and the plane.

    I have:

    GWS R6NII receiver (6ch naro type)
    GWS ICS-300 ESC
    9.6V 750 mAh Ni-mh battery
    and the motor: the sticker on the motor says GWS EM400, but if you include the gear system on it, it is called EPS-400C (my calculations are that it is geared 3:1, and they gave me a EP-1060 prop, which is 10x6 i'm pretty sure)

    My problem:

    I am not sure the motor matches up with the ESC. should the speed 400 motor be matched with an ICS-400 ESC? I hadn't thought of that, but then I came up to an obstacle: the connections between the 400 motor and the 300 ESC do not match up (and yes, I did follow the instructions) The motor has the two wires(black & red) totally seperate, as in, the wires end at a piece of metal, while the ESC's end at a little black 'box', if you know what I mean. the motor does not have any 'box', it is just two seperate pieces of metal. Also, the wires for the ESC are smaller in diameter than the motor's are.

    Is it just that I have to buy a GWS ICS-400 ESC? Is that how it works, that the numbers on the motor should match the numbers on the ESC? Like I said, I am new to electrics so I am still learning this stuff.

    Thankyou everyone for your help.

    Mark
    \"Better to remain silent and thought a fool then to speak and remove all doubt\"

  2. #2
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions


    ORIGINAL: Barwelle

    I have:

    GWS R6NII receiver (6ch naro type)
    GWS ICS-300 ESC
    9.6V 750 mAh Ni-mh battery
    and the motor: the sticker on the motor says GWS EM400, the manual says EDP-400C

    My problem:

    I am not sure the motor matches up with the ESC. should the speed 400 motor be matched with an ICS-400 ESC? I hadn't thought of that, but then I came up to an obstacle: the connections between the 400 motor and the 300 ESC do not match up (and yes, I did follow the instructions) The motor has the two wires(black & red) totally seperate, as in, the wires end at a piece of metal, while the ESC's end at a little black 'box', if you know what I mean. the motor does not have any 'box', it is just two seperate pieces of metal. Also, the wires for the ESC are smaller in diameter than the motor's are.

    Is it just that I have to buy a GWS ICS-400 ESC? Is that how it works, that the numbers on the motor should match the numbers on the ESC? Like I said, I am new to electrics so I am still learning this stuff.

    Thankyou everyone for your help.

    Mark
    The 300 ESC is rated at 8 Amps continuous and 15 Amps max. From what I've heard about the GWS batteries, you won't get much more than 8 amps out of them anyway, so you should be okay with the 300 ESC. If you can stay away from full throttle most of the time, even better.

    The 300 ESC wire is a bit thin though, even for the 300 motors.

    I'm paranoid about overloading an ESC, because if it burns out, you will lose control of your plane because the receiver gets the power from the ESC--it converts your 9.6V to around 5V which the Rx likes a whole lot better.

    Personally, I would switch to a higher rated ESC. I don't think the GWS 400 ESC comes with any connectors so you'll have to either crimp or solder your own on.

    Just make sure that whatever kind of connector you choose, that it is rated for the current you'll use--up to 13 amps or so. If you wanted, you could just solder the wires together, making sure that you insulate the solder joints well; that's what I've done on one of my speed 400 planes.

    Lastly, the motor is an EM400, and the EPS are the letters that GWS uses to refer to a motor system that is geared. So you've got the right motor.

    Was out putting the 126th flight on my Estarter today. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.


  3. #3

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Thanks for the help. Since my idea for buying this plane in the first place was to make it cheap and dispensable, I stayed with the 300 ESC. To connect the wires, I just burned the paper off four twist-ties, and twisted the wires thru the holes in the connectors and around the wires several times, then covered it with electrical tape. that should work fine, because It won't fall apart because I made sure the wires were put thru the holes in the conectors several times. As well, I can take them apart anytime with wirecutters or just unwrapping the wire, unlike soldering. It doesn't heat up so it must be a good enough connection.

    Now, Since your post, I finished putting the plane together, and it is all ready to go. one problem: I wanted to make sure the receiver and transmitter, as well as the ESC and servo's worked okay, so I ran it around my living room for a bit, going back and forth. I noticed an obvious problem. (BTW, the Rx is a GWS R6N-II, Tx is GW/T-4A... they came together in the radio set that I bought) I set up the plane as 3-ch with only rudder and elevator controls (as well as motor, of course) sometimes, both the rudder and elevator servo's will turn one way as far as they can go, and the motor will stop completely, and I have no control what-so-ever of the plane. I found that by turning the Tx on and off a few times, I can regain complete control, but a few minutes later it will repeat. It seems like it is a completely random event; as in, it does not matter what position the Tx is in relation to the Rx and antenna. I recall hearing something negative about the reliability of GWS receivers, but I cannot recall whether it is something like this.
    I also did some 'taxi trials' outdoors, just incase it was from interference inside the house, but there seemed to be no change. occasionally it would do the same thing, full lockup of the servo's in one direction, no motor control.

    What should I do? buy a new R6N-II Rx? or another GWS Rx other than R6N? I appreciate all suggestions for this problem, thankyou very much to all

    EDIT: Time Pilot, and anyone else with this E-starter, how is yours set up? servos, Rx, Tx, 3ch or 4ch or any modifications, and motor? Anything you would change if you were to start over with another E-starter?
    \"Better to remain silent and thought a fool then to speak and remove all doubt\"

  4. #4
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    The problem you describe could be caused by a number of things. Does the problem change with the distance you are from the plane or the direction the antenna is pointed in? I had some problems with my Estarter initially and got rid of it by running the antenna out the wing rather than down the fuse. Try to keep the antenna away from any of the wires or electronics as much as you can.

    My Estarter is 4 channels. I have Hitec 55's on the rudder and elevator and a Waypoint servo (the only one I own) on the ailerons. I went for a servo with a bit more torque on the ailerons as I felt they may need it, the surfaces being so large. Hitec has a new servo the same size as the 55 with more torque--I'd use that now instead.

    I have a GWS 4 channel Naro Rx and use a Futaba Skysport 4 channel radio. Speed control is a GWS 300. Motor: 350 C geared, 9x6 prop. Batteries: Cheap Battery Pack 1150 7C nimh's all on Dean's Ultra connectors.

    I did few mods. I didn't use the battery hatch. I installed a series of 4 bamboo sticks into both the sides of the fuse where the foam is thickest. The skewers don't go all the way through--only into the foam. It isn't pretty on the ground, but it makes for good cooling, and an easy install of batteries--rubber bands hold the packs in. This may take some of the strain off the landing gear on a hard landing as the elastics will stretch a bit and not deliver the full impact to the gear all at once.

    I ran a piece of light packing tape down the top and bottom of the fuse from the aft cabin to the tail. If this area is not reinforced, it will break if you hit the ground hard enough.

    I made my tail wheel castoring instead.

    In the holes where the metal rods go into the foam surfaces, I drilled out holes that would accept small fuel tubing. The music wire fits the inside diameter perfectly, and I don't have to worry about the music wire crushing any of the foam and getting slop in the surface.

    Some people have had problems with their landing gear coming off. I filled some of the landing gear bracket with foam and drilled a hole through the foam and plastic piece. I also took a piece of wire and poked some holes into the foam surrounding the hole where the landing gear bracket fits in. Before I put it in, I worked lots of epoxy into the holes in the bracket and the foam, put in place and wiped away all the excess epoxy. I also epoxied a thin piece of balsa into the gap where the landing gear slides into. I did this first, actually, then the foam, then the holes and then it was glued up.

    I didn't use the tape they supply for covering the spar. I used a piece of fiber reinforced packing tape instead.

    I fly mine with the both the wing bolt and rubber band tie downs.

    If I were to build another, I would use less glue on the tail. I might attempt at making mine look a little prettier (mine is basically white with only the window stickers on), but I like the way it flies so much, that I'd only change something if I could make it lighter. Even with the 5.5 oz battery, my Estarter cruises at half throttle.

    Hope that helps.

  5. #5

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Originally, I put the antenna going down the left strut... easier than threading it through to the back of the fuse... but I took a few minutes and got it out the back and now it seems to work fine... I also reinforced the bottom of the fuse and the LE of the wings and also the LE of the horizontal and vertical stabs with tape. My landing gear wire does not fit into the plastic piece very tightly but I would rather it pop out than tear the plastic piece as well as some foam off the plane. And I looped an elastic band around the bottom of the fuse between each wing strut to keep the battery in, and I left the battery hatch in also.

    Well, everything seemed okay, the plane wasn't glitching while I did some taxi trials, so i took off for the first time... I tried to turn, but the darn thing kept tilting and it just rolled over and hit the ground. I don't think there is near enough dihedral on this bird to have rudder only so I am going to install ailerons ASAP. The plane was okay so I took off again, but this time just landed after a few seconds. I did that several times, take off then land... opposite of touch-and-go, you could say. Did that until I couldnt take off no more! I'm excited tho, I cant wait till i get them ailerons... it seems like this bird can take quite a beating.

    How much does yours weigh overall? I have only a 750 mAh batt so it only weighs 4 oz, but alltogether, the plane weighs 18-19 oz. Thats also without the aileron servo, rods, and whatever else for the ailerons. I heard that some people have gotten theirs to 11 oz.

    Talk to ya later
    \"Better to remain silent and thought a fool then to speak and remove all doubt\"

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Barnwell, I too have a E-Starter and I love mine, I think ailerons are the only way to go with this plane, you will love the way it flies. on the antenna try this, take the small tube for the control rod that came with the plane, if it is not already in the fuse for the rudder put it in, then run the antenna wire through it to the rear and out at the tail, then bring it under the plane and tape it in place. On the landing gear, mine kept jumping out everytime I landed so I did something simular to Time Pilot. I also leave my battery box open, the other day I got some 8.4 1050 ma 2/3 A batteries and I put one in and man was it great, it made it heavier but the improved torque and extended flight more than make up for it, after about 9 min of WOT flying I pulled 5 consecutive loops with # 5 being as strong as # 1 then made a couple more circles couple more loops and a roll or 2 before the batt started showing real signs of weakining, I have found using the larger of the 2 props supplied and the larger battery has been the perfect combination. My next move will be brushless. Good luck with your ailerons and I hope you enjoy it as much as Time Pilot and myself
    Time pilot, don't feel bad about not painting yours if that is what you meant, the paint comes off way too easy, take a look at mine in my models,That was before it's maiden flight, after one minor nose in and a couple times of LG jumping out I have almost no paint on cowl and wing tips are all scared up. I don't fly in perfect condition feilds so weeds play into the game and they will scratch paint too, if I had it to do again, I would skip the paint and just either use the factory decals or go buy some I liked
    Oh yeah mine glitches a little now and then, be sure you tape all your servo wires away from each other and keep you aileron rods to servo short as possible
    AJ
    Well I flew it up there... now how am I supposed to get it down

  7. #7
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I can't tell you what mine weighs. My Estarter might not fly as well if it knew.

    The Estarter does fly rudder only. I know because I friction fit my aileron servo and it came loose inflight and had to take it down with rudder only. Do you have enough throw on your rudder?

    Barwelle,
    The only decals I put on were the windows. Since I rubber band the wings down as well as use the wing bolt, I wanted to ensure the foam around the dowels was as secure as possible. All I can say is that it looks scale in the air!

    I don't really care much what it looks like, but there is that peer pressure when others show up flying with a nice looking model, or when people want to see the plane close up.

    I did put some of the decals on my Formosa, as well as painting part of the bottom of the wing to help me with orientation, but it's pretty easy to tell which way is up on the Estarter.

    Oh yes--I forgot about that suggestion about taping the wires--especially if you were talking about the aileron servo wires. I taped them out of the way of the servo so they wouldn't get tangled in the pushrods/servos.

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    AJ- is that nimh batts, or lipo? and which motor did you get? I got 400, with 9.6V 750 batts that came with the radio. it only came with one prop, a 1060, which im sure is a 10-6. I broke that the first time I flew and I had an APC 9-6 and that seems a bit slower on accelleration but same overall.

    Time Pilot- do you have alot of dihedral on yours? On mine, there's dihedral on the wing roots, but 1/3 of the way out, it curves and it's flat on the outside 2/3's of the wings. I think it just flattened out in the box; it wasnt really packed in a way that it would keep its shape... Was your wing like that? same question to you too, AJ. I'm thinking that my rudder problem is because either the wing lost some dihedral in the box that it came in, or that the wing isn't very level... It looks level, and when flying straight its okay so i dont know! i'll figure it out eventually. In the meantime, I'm gonna see if I can get a hitec HS-65HB servo... that's the powerful micro servo that Time Pilot was talking about.
    \"Better to remain silent and thought a fool then to speak and remove all doubt\"

  9. #9
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions


    ORIGINAL: Barwelle

    Time Pilot- do you have alot of dihedral on yours?

    ....i'll figure it out eventually. In the meantime, I'm gonna see if I can get a hitec HS-65HB servo... that's the powerful micro servo that Time Pilot was talking about.
    I've not measured it, but the wing is definitely V shaped. There is no warp or curve in my wing.

    I'm not sure if you actually need the HS65, a HS55 may do and save you $5 too, but I am conservative when it comes to things like this. I'd rather have a bit too much than just enough, especially if it doesn't mean a lot of extra weight.

    Depending on where you ordered your Estarter, you may be able to get a new wing. You can't lose for asking. You may even be pleasantly surprised.


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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Hey guy's the wing should not have a lot of dehedrial, it will have a little but if it has too much you defeat the purpose (ailerons)
    Barnwell take your wing and set it down flat on a table at the center or root and look at it from a distance, it should have about 5 deg dehedrial and I think the tips rolling down will create a optical illusion of the wing dropping down when it really doesn't, it does however move to being flat on the top surface, also note there is no polyhedrial on this wing
    Mine came with the 350 geared, I am using nimh batts, I'm still scared of lipo's. Look at the pic of mine in my models, I think it is straight on shot enough to judge the wing to yours. This plane can fly rudder only but it would be very squirly as it is not designed to fly rudder, it is a aileron trainer, the rudder is only for side wind control while landing and some aerobatic tricks. A rudder driven plane requires at least 10 deg dehedrial in most cases I only have 2 planes with ailerons at this time, E-Starter and A-10 and both wings are almost identical, low dehedrial, no polyhedrial, top surface rolling to almost flat
    I am using HS55 in mine and it is more than sufficiant, even in hard pulls the surface area is not big enough to create major torque on the servo's, if anything maybe the elevator could use HS65
    I would go back to the 10x6, thats what I use and it works best IMHO
    on mine I taped the elevator wire to the side of the fuse from the servo to the RX then taped the antenna wire on opposite side and ran it into the servo rod tube opposite the elevator tube, I put the ESC in the nose and made a new hole for battery wire to come out at front of battery compartment, this allows seperation of all components and clears out fuse for wing servo, I taped that wire up to LE of wing so when hooked up it is not crossing anything in the fuse and the servo throws can't touch it, I posted some pics of this in the park flyer forum on the Shud Da Cub thread last night for a freind that is building A Starter, take a look if you want
    I Love mine, it flys so smooth and is very capable of stunts and has a good solid air frame for upgrading the motor
    Well I better get to work, after all they are paying me
    AJ
    Well I flew it up there... now how am I supposed to get it down

  11. #11
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    It's not that we want to add dihedral to Barwelle's Estarter, we want to establish that his wing isn't deformed. If the wing is v shaped with each half of the wing straight and not curved or twisted, it should be a good wing.

    Prop choice is a bit subjective, depending on the pilot. When confronted with a range of props for a motor/battery combo, I prefer higher pitched props. If I had extra power to spin a prop faster I might give up some of the speed for thrust, but for now, I prefer that little bit of extra speed.

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Time Pilot I agree and if I appeared to be indicating different with my post I apoligize, I wasn't trying to imply that a change of dehedrial was being discussed or not, I was simply trying to assure Barn that his wing was more than likely OK, if you have never had a aileron plane before the wing looks different from what your used to. I was just trying to help too
    I agree on the choice of props and my set up was mearly an example of a good matchup for a beginner that will give good performance while learning, I think the larger prop give better overall torque at all times, but thats just my opinion. and it's based on using a bigger batt as well
    I found the stock batt had a hard time turning the bigger prop in a hard pull such as loops and rolls or hard climbs, It would loose speed, hey it's all about getting out there and having good flights and having fun
    AJ
    Well I flew it up there... now how am I supposed to get it down

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I put a BP21 in one of my estarters, with a 15 amp brushless esc. The rest is pretty much stock. All I can say about it with that outrunner in front: Wheeeeeee! Great flights on a 7.4, 1300 mAh Lipo.

    We are supposed to break ground and fly into the wind, not the other way 'round!

  14. #14
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions


    ORIGINAL: rn68123

    I put a BP21 in one of my estarters, with a 15 amp brushless esc.... Wheeeeeee! Great flights on a 7.4, 1300 mAh Lipo.
    What kind of prop did you put up front with that?

    And any idea how many amps you're pulling with it?

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    No offens but its not that hard to figure out that a speed 400 motor needs a speed 400 esc to run it.[:'(][:@][:-] I understand though its hard to get into it, im new too. But if you need help in the future when it comes to upgrading and buying just go to Hobby town USA they helped me get started and they can help you too.[8D]

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions


    ORIGINAL: Im_a_Kid_who_flyes

    No offens but its not that hard to figure out that a speed 400 motor needs a speed 400 esc to run it.[:'(][:@][:-]
    [sm=confused.gif] Did I say something contrary?

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I wasn't talking to you Timepilot but I was talking to barwelle. I wasn't trying to be rude/mean[&o] but next time read on the back of the esc for the size of motor it can be used for. I'm new to RC and have been in it for only a few months so I don't want to be known as the mean guy in RC so lets just forget about it.[8D]

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I know you already talked about it but I thought I might revisit it. I also have an E-Starter and I hade both the reciever gliches and the no aileron problem. I took my first E-Starter out in an open field that a dads friend owns with a gravel driveway we smoothed out as a takoff want-to-be landing strip. I ALSO HAD NO AILERONS AND FROM TAKOFF I THOUGHT THAT I WOULD JUST TAKEOFF DO A LEFT TURN LEVEL IT OUT AND TURN GOING INTO A LANDING: NOT SO I TOOK OFF (I DID THIS FAIRLY GOOD WITHOUT A PROBLEM) MADE A TURN AND THE TURN WAS OK BUT AS SOON AS I STOPED GIVING IT RUDER IT DECIDED TO FALL OUT OF THE SKY INTO A SPIRAL! WHEN IT HIT THE GROUND I KNEW IT WAS BAD (CONSIDERING IT WAS AT APROXAMENTLY THIRTY TO FIFTY FEET UP) BUT WHEN I GOT THERE IT WAS HORIBLE THE FUSALOGE WAS IN TWO PIECES THE COWLING WAS IN HUNDREDS OF PEICES THE WING WAS OK BUT IT STRIPED OUT IN THE BACK WHERE IT BOLTED TO THE FUSALAGE AND THE CONTROL RODS WERE BENT SO BAD THAT COULDENT PULL THEM OUT OF THE TUBES: I COULD ONLY SALVIGE THE WING AND THE SURVOS RECEIVER ESC MOTOR ETC: I WAS DISAPOINTED BUT DETERMINED TO TRY AGAIN BUT THIS TIME WITH FULL FORCE FOR CHRISTMAS ALL I WANTED WAS A NEW ESTARTER SO I GOT IT AND CANT WAIT TILL SPRING TO FLY AGAIN

    PS MY COMPUTER WAS DOING SOMTHING WEID AND ITS NOT CAPS LOCK BECAUSE IT MADE IT HAVE CAPS LOCK AND NOTHING WOULD STOP IT I THINK ITS CALLED STICKY KEYS

  19. #19
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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I know Estarters fly without ailerons because my friction fit aileron servo came loose in flight. I didn't spend much time flying as I didn't know what the problem was in the air, but I managed to fly a bit and bring it down in front of me for a regular landing.

    On the ground, the aileron servo could be heard moving, but there was no surface deflection.

    Your Estarter shouldn't just fall out of the sky without rudder. You may have been close to stall speed and given some up elevator which may have done you in.

    Your next Estarter may suffer the same fate. Although it may be more spetacular because now you're doing it with ailerons.

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I know I didn't stall because I had the throttle 4/5 of the way up and was only turning with no up elavator and I have the pps350c motor on mine wich gave it plenty of power. This may have been the problem though. I'm hoping to get a flight simulator soon before I go out and fly again (hopefully soon) and [sm=lol.gif] [sm=thumbup.gif](this is not as easy as it seems cocidering I live in a little redneck town up north not too far from the canadian border in washington with only one other person that I know of that flies. a downside to living here because there are no clubs or stores for 80 miles.)
    P.S. It will be spectaular with ailerons![sm=bananahead.gif]

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    You can stall at any speed. There is such a thing as a high speed stall. Buy a Formosa, put elevator at high rates, get her going good at full throttle and give full up quickly. If you do this at low altitude, you'll quickly understand what a high speed stall looks like. [X(]

    A flight sim should help.

  22. #22

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    I have a question regarding my E-Starter...

    I just built it about 2 weeks ago, and building was pretty basic. I didn't have any problems anyhow. But my concern is this....

    I used standard sized servos (HS-325BB) on her so I added alot of weight to her. Plus, i'm using a 2200mah (Li-Po) on her as well. She's got some weight to her but i'm not sure just how heavy she is.

    I'm having doubts that she's going to fly very well on the EPS-400 ("D" gear drive) and 10X6 prop. Would it help any if I used an APC 10X7 prop that I have handy.... ? Or should I just go brushless...? I know that a 2200mah 3 cell Li-Po will fry that 400 motor pretty quick if you give it full throttle for more than 10 seconds at a time... but all in all.... do you think my E-Starter will be able to get off the ground with the setup that I described?

    Thanks for any advice you have




    Fun and safe flying
    ~Tim~ (TheDustyPagan)[8D]

  23. #23

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Tim, don't be worried about the weight you have created with your set up, you will be fine as long as you have your CG right, I have tryed a few different things with mine and have had it so heavy it would'nt climb over 20 foot but it flew. I'm using standard 18g servos in mine, 3 of them. I am running a 2410 09y motor with a 8X6 prop and 1350 3S batt, it is a bit slow off the ground but realy kicks into gear once it's moving.
    Now onto the motor issue, don't be fooled into thinking your only adding full cap to the motor at full throttle, you are giving that motor full capacity at any throttle setting, it's just in slower pulses at lower throttle, hence it lasting a little longer the less you push it. A 3S lipo will cook a 400 even if you never go over 1/2 throttle, it will just take a little longer
    Now having said all that,, take it out and have fun, it's a great flying plane, but if you didn't do it you will want to beef up the LG as the stock set up stinks and will break out onyour first hard landing, sink the wire deeper into the fuse than suggested and use 5 min epox all around it
    here's a pic of mine now
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    AJ
    Well I flew it up there... now how am I supposed to get it down

  24. #24

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Well that's good news then! I'll be happy as long as she can get off the ground and give me 5 to 10 "full battery length" flights on the stock motor setup. I have an AXI 2808/24 and Jeti 30A brushless setup that hopefully wouldn't be too strong for it. But since i'm going to eventually put on a set of those GWS floats... (which should arrive this friday).. (but this won't be until much later on that I instal them).. Anyhow, I use the same setup on my Magpie AP platform and it really does the job for her. The Magpie AP weighs about 38oz though... I don't think my E-Starter is that heavy.. but I bet it's up around the high 20oz range with the big 2200mah 11.1V battery and 3 standard Hitech servos in her.

    I will definately take your advice/warning about the landing gear needing beefing up! I have some 5 minute epoxy that should fix that problem.. but then I won't be able to instal floats later on. I suppose I could always buy a second E-Starter specifically for the floats.. and use the first as my"beater plane".

    Anyway... thanks for your advice!! I really appreciate it.



    Fun and safe flying [8D]
    ~Tim~

  25. #25

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    RE: GWS E-Starter... motor/esc/rcvr Questions

    Tim,,, Wrong the ES is designed for floats, if you look on your fuse you will see it has 2 places for the LG one in front and one behind the cockpit, it also should have come with 2 plastic mounts for LG, install the second one now then build your floats,(which is a pain by the way) when your ready, just don't epox the ger on the rear. I just built a set of floats and I used expanding foam to fill the gap between the foam and plastic of the floats, the plastic is very flimbsy, even after it is put together and I will be landing on the ground with mine too
    Good Luck I think your going to be very happy with your ES
    here's my 2nd ES, still a work in process but getting close to finished now
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    AJ
    Well I flew it up there... now how am I supposed to get it down


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