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  1. #76
    apwachholz's Avatar
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    >> Couldn't be more pleased
    I have to say that I'm very very pleased with the paint scheme and how well it turned out. I highly recommend anyone looking to add realistic panel lines to any project use pinstripe tape and pin heads if you have the patience. Wow! That's all I have to say. I'll let the picture tell the story. I'm pumped how well all the details blended together in the end. 2 more steps left:
    1. Apply a coat of Rust-oleum clear gloss lacquer to the awesomeness you see.
    2. Test with some oil and fuel residue to see how well it holds up.
    Ltr!
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  2. #77

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    That does look really good. I can't even imagine how long that must have taken to line up each little pin head.

  3. #78
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    @ckreef
    Actually, it took me 15 minutes to place the rivets on the panel. I use a straight edge to create a line for the rivets to follow(or I use my "tape edge"; see previous posts), dot pin locations with marker, poke a hole, and place the pin. If that's not your thing (and it won't be for many) adding panel lines using pin-striping is beyond quick and easy. From a 5 foot distance the end results looks very realistic.

  4. #79

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    So did you actually poke a full pin in there or did you cut the pins down so it was just the head and a little nub ???

  5. #80
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    @ckreef
    If you look back at my post on pg. 3 titled "Addicted to rivets" I mention how I go about my process. Essentially I cut the pin stem off but leave just enough to stick it through the surface. Before placing the rivets I pre-punch holes with a pin and then insert. I don't glue them in place as the layers of paint afterwards will seal them. With the exception of the fiberglass cowl rivets. Those I had to glue in place. Once you get a rhythm down, it goes along pretty quickly.

  6. #81
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > Canopy Paint & Con't Painting
    I had to spend a little time masking the canopy in order to paint it and and then decided to tackle the elevators. For the canopy I added a little color to match the new paint scheme that I'm going for. It turned out pretty good. Needless to say all the details are starting to come together so, I'll let the images speak to the details.
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  7. #82
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    [E-flite Texan elevator paint details]
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  8. #83
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > Prime & Paint
    With priming and painting of the E-flite Texan in full swing, I'm running some additional tests for fuel proofing paint. My initial findings are:
    Good: Testors Model Master enamel paints work great when applied on a primed surface (Rustoleum spray primer) and sealed with Krylon Polyurethane. I performed a fuel test with engine muffler oil and also with straight 15% nitro glow fuel and neither budged the paint after 5 mins. of sitting on the test strip.
    Bad: Testors Model Master Custom Lacquer System has to be done in the 2 step process Testors recommends. When laying down Hugger Orange (990) and then sealing with Kylon Polyurethane (plus 1 week of curing)you could scratch the surface and start to peel off the poly layer. So no bonding occured. Additionally, the raw fuel test completely failed. After 2 mins. the poly warped, cracked, and was done. The oil, however, fared just fine on the surface.I'm now re- testing the full 2 part system (properly), going to seal it with Polyurethane, and will perform another fuel test.

    More to come....
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  9. #84

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    Awesome test as we all want to know the final results.

    On my Gee Bee "Y"  I was initally worried they didn't use fuel proof paint on the wheel pants. I dabed some 15% Omega Pink on the bottom of the wheel pants and let it sit for 15+ mins without any paint "melting". At this point I also have some exhaust residue that had been sitting on it for about 36 hours without an issue.

    With Electric->Glow conversions of ARF's one never knows about this.

  10. #85
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > 2-Part Lacquer System vs. Polyurethane
    The results are in and I'm a bit surprised. Testors Model Master enamel paints, when coated with Krylon Polyurethane, hold up great against glow fuel with a set time of 5+ minutes as does Testor Model Master Custom Lacquer system. However, applying a coat of polyurethane over the lacquer did not work. Take a peek at the picture and see for yourself.This was after a set time of 10 minutes with 15% nitro glow fuel.
    My rattle spray can solutions for covering rc airplanes:
    1) Testor Model Master Enamel + Krylon Polyurethane = Glow Proof
    2) Testor Model Master Custom 2-Part Lacquer System = Glow Proof*(see note below)
    3) Testor Model Master Custom Lacquer System + Krylon Polyurethane = Damaged paint.
    PLZ NOTE: These images were taken at an extreme close-up angle. The "damage" on the 2-part lacquer system seems harsh, however, it was more like a hard water stain which could easily be buffed out and re-glossed. The lacquer, however, was completely damaged.
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  11. #86

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    Your making great progress!
    I have used Testors Model Master paint many times with a clear coat. I like the real FS numbers for the military colors. I used to use Black baron epoxy paint from the spray can, then I used Lusterkote clear. Now I use Klasskote clear from a spray gun. It REALLY looks good if you can go that route.

    I have been working on mine too! I had to rebuild the center section wing because my wheel wells are closer together. That is a critical structure area, and I did not want my wing to fall off!
    I am just about ready to start glassing the one piece wing(54" does not need to be 3 piece), after a little more sanding.

    Here is a pic of the full size's wheel wells. My wells are smaller to fit the stock size wheels.
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    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  12. #87
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    >North American New Zealand Paint Scheme
    I wanted to toss a picture of the New Zealand paint scheme thus far. It's turning out really well and the next steps are to apply markings on the wings, fuse, and tail. Then I'll seal them with a clear coat of polyurethane or the 2-part lacquer system (depending on where the gfx is located). I'll be using Testors Custom Model Decal system as I have designed all the graphics in Adobe Illustrator.

    @scaledail
    Thanks! I'm pretty stoked about the progress and I feel within the next two weeks I'll be at the flying field getting the engine ready to rock for a maiden.
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  13. #88
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > Continuing The Details
    Here's the North American Harvard (T-6 Texan) New Zealand paint scheme futher along in development. Once the decals dry and the humidity drops a bit (as it's too high for a poly seal coating) I'll do a final coat of poly to seal in the decals and glow proof the paint, install all the electronics, engine, landing gear and get in a good engine run. Then maiden.... almost there......
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  14. #89

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    That is great! Converted to glow AND made to look better!
    I'll post a pic of my glassed one piece wing when I finish it soon.
    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  15. #90

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    I've just about had it with this forum and all the Lecky talk going on here. I'll post one more picture of my progress.
    I have got the wing top and bottom glassed. Now the long process of sanding.
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    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  16. #91
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    @scaledail
    "I've just about had it with this forum and all the Lecky talk going on here." - scaledail

    What happened? I hope I haven't offended you at all. I've been really enjoying our thread about the Texan build and would really love to continue to see your progress. Speaking of which, your wing will look awesome once you get it sanded and primed. Like! I really wish I could have pulled all the covering off and done the same. Would have made the plane much more durable for the long haul.

    @rcu
    Where's the "like" button for someones post? Scaledail is deserving of one for his work (above).

    _aw

  17. #92

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    Please don't get me wrong, I have no problems with anyone posting constructive bits on the G-flight AT-6 thread. It's the leckys that have no respect for us on this Electric to glow forum or thread. There are only a few of us that really like glow engines enough to convert these airframes and the leckys choose to talk about their electrons here too. That really lights up my glow plug![>:]
    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  18. #93

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    If I can get the right engine and tank for my T-34 I want to convert it to glow.
    SIG Brotherhood # 3
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  19. #94

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    Yea! Just gotta have some plywood to mount that oil burner to.
    My At-6, sanding and sanding.
    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  20. #95

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    LOL thats the easy part, finding a tank that will fit is the hard part, I need a slim long tank to go where the battery pack goes, not enough room even if I cut out the floor.
    SIG Brotherhood # 3
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  21. #96
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    @scaledail
    Haters gonna' hate Scale. I see a lot of that from time to time and it confuses and dissapoints me.I'm not sure what propels a person (pun intended) to believe that their aircraft or style of hobby is better then others but, it's no way to encourage someone to be part of a community. As for myself, I love anything that flies. I'm amazed at the free-flight crew and how beautiful their aircraft are built, or how much technical know-how hardcore electric fliers have. It's all just awesome. But, like I said, haters hate and there isnt' a thing you can do but ignore them.

    And now... on to what we're passionate about!

  22. #97
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > Tight Fit & Weight Confirmed
    All electronics are installed and the total dry weight (no fuel in the tank) is 4lbs 4oz. However, even with my receiver battery installed behind the engine firewall and my servos pushed as forward as you can get, I still need to add 4.25 oz of additional lead weight (1 1/2 bars of Great Planes Segmented Lead Weights) in the cowl to balance the airplane.

    @acdii
    Talk about not enough room! I'll post a picture of my installation soon. The front of the plane is packed back to back with fuel tank, fuel valve, batttery, etc. and I still need to add weight in order to balance the CG.

  23. #98
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    > Staring Skyward
    Weekend #2 attempt and this time all went great. Engine tuned to perfection, muffler sealed off, all electronics ready, but the weather decided to not play nice. Bummer. Winds were too strong (15+MPH) for a maiden and at times the gusts were as high as 25+ so, yeah, that's a no go for a plane this size. So close! Here's a pic of the Harvard on the flight bench (after a good engine tune) looking lonely as we stood by and watched the winds blow. Flight pix and video for a final overview when we hit the skies.

    This has been one great project.

    _andrew
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  24. #99

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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    Neat! Good call on standing down with the wind. Thanks for the tips on the wieght and balence.
    The engine is tuned to perfection! Love it!

    I have heard that this model will tip stall. But that is when the Leckys fly it, they expect everything to be light as a foamy feather. I plan on mine being in the 5 pound range.
    It does NOT have to be GIANT to be scale!

  25. #100
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    RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!

    @scale dail
    Thought you might get a kick out of this location. It's the manual for the SNJ Harvard:

    http://aviationshoppe.com/at6-snj-ha...uals-a-56.html

    Take a peek at the image where they mention stalling in the full scale. After reading up on the Harvard last year, I found that they re-designed the airplane wing quite a few times to help reduce any stalling problems. When I was looking at the wing design of the E-flite kit I realized that they changed it dramatically by adding more dihedral thus, creating more inherit stability and reducing the chance of getting into a stall. But, if you don't understand the concept of a stall and how it occurs (or how to recover) there's little that a manufacturer can do to prevent a pilot from getting into one.
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