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  1. #1

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    Motor Cooling

    One of the neat things about converting a nitro plane to electric is the totally enclosed cowl that is possible. I am presently scratch building a Super Pacer and a Tweety Bird .20 and have both framed up and fuselages shaped. I know the motor has to have a flow of cooling air and am wondering if the normal form fitting 2" spinner will allow enough air to pass through since the nose of cowl is also 2". I have heard there is a formula for cowling frontal air inlet openings in relationship to rear exhaust openings (rear needs to be larger). These two planes do not have cowl chins, so I am thinking of a smaller diameter spinner to allow more airflow, even though it would not be as nice looking as the larger spinner.

    Thanks,

    SpadCat

  2. #2
    allelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Springfield, OR
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    RE: Motor Cooling

    Hello Jeff Here,
    I fly nothing but electric and have for about 6 years. Please understand it doesn't make me and expert. I have never had a motor over heat. A bad esc set one on fire but that was not from heat. It was electrical. Your esc and batteries are what need ventelation. And that usually comes through the cowling and firewall and out the rear of the plane. I have 2 22 volt planes that ONLY have holes in the firewall NO exit holes and the temp has never been over 80 degrees for the esc or batts. The Frenzy I fly is a 29.6 volt system and it cools through the cowling and the temp was only a bit above ambient temp. And i fly pretty hard 3D. I check heat on my electrical components every time I land just to have an idea what's going on. Hope this helps and I hope you enjoy your new Electrics!!!

    And May All Your Landings Be Smoooooth!!!!!!!!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    RE: Motor Cooling

    Spadcat we all want to help you as much as we can so take this as that HELP. This is a electric to GLOW conversion forum..... Not GLOW to ELECTRIC conversion.
    AMA # 126183
    Fly light, fly fast and fly low.


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