w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have a lot of experience with Teflon coated rings in air compressors and the teflon will transfer over onto the clyinder and has to be removed at re-ring time

MTK

Well, actually PTFE is the most stable plastic known to man under normal conditions. It has almost no enemies....chemical, UV, electrical, magnetic, nuclear radiation resistance are extreme. Temp wise, it will work at 550F continuously. The bushing areas around the crank are usually cooler than that because of fuel flow.

But its compressive strength is low....the stop and go motion of the crank and wrist pins put great compressive load on the bearings. The type of PTFE used in bushings will be pushed out of the way even in cold conditions. Garlock's engineers know this fact. Tuff Teflon is only marginally better in compression.

50 hours of operation is very good for the type of material used.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Gentlemen - I'm relatively new to gas engines (have running an XYZ50 and a DLE20 and a DLE30 (NIB), but I'm already a convert. I also have an OS 160 and would like to ask you all what will this cost to convert to gas? (sounds like everyone is going gas, so these 160's don't seem to fetch too much on the used market).

I take it I'll need a Walbro carb, and an electronic ignition. I have an extra IGN for my XYZ50 - will that work? Also sounds like I'll need to drill a hole into the crankcase to make a pulse-port (?). Does this supply back-pressure for the Walbro fuel pump? Sorry, I just read this thread and don't have a good handle on this yet. But I'm pretty handy and am willing to learn by doing. (just rebuilt my YS FZ140). Any advice on items needed, cost, and process would be appreciated.

One caveat - I bought this OS 160 used about 1.5 years ago and have never run it. I'm guessing I should run it first on nitro just to see that it's healthy first... (and that is the plan). Thanks!

Mike

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

We used the Garlock as a sub for needle bearings, we had factory ST cranks checked for hardness. They varied fron 18 to 37 Rockwell, we even had some that varied on the crankpin. That is way too soft for needle bearings and we didn't like installing races or new crankpins to get a hard surface.
The boss decided that we shouldn't be in the engine business, so the project was dropped.
We ran a 20:1 oil mix, at 50 hr the bearing was starting to show an egg shape.

angoradreng

Do you have a drawing of the carb. adapter ? how did you make it ? its all I have to make, to finish the convert of my 160 FX

Michael

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here is the way the adapter looks

angoradreng

thank you

karolh

W8ye,

What is the nipple used for ?

Karol

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The nipple is the pulse line for the pump on the carb

The crankcase is tapped and a line run from the crankcase tap to the nipple on the adapter which has a hole that aligns with the hole in the carb for the pressure pulse

You could eliminate the nipple on the adapter and put a nipple in the pump cover of the carb instead

telejojo

So what did this whole conversion deal cost?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you shop around, you can get the WT-499 carb and the RCEXL ignition for $100.

The machine work for the carb adapter and ignition timing pick up was done in house

angoradreng

Do you by any chance have some measurements on the adapter ?

MTK

Mike,

Since you purchased it used (glow runs) chances are very good the bearings are shot and will probably need replacing. You can tell as you turn the crank over...if not silky smooth they should be replaced. Just a little caveat here- if you change bearings and then run it on glow, you will re-initiate bearing break-down. If you convert it to gas quickly, you may not lose the new bearings.

You might want to replace the ring/liner when you convert it to gas, depending on how it works when you run it.

Your CDI on hand should work ok as long as your magnet and sensor are located correctly at around 28-30 degrees before Top Dead Center. Someone mentioned to use about 10% oil in the gas and that's good advice for a plain bushing con-rod engine

captinjohn

No ...but make it so it just slips into old carb bore...big dia will be size of pump carb you are going to use and the bolt spacing will be same as the pump carb you will use. Make a flat spot and tap it for the pressure tap od your choice. Well get going on it...nxt thing your done!

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

I made mine as I went and didn't make any blueprints so to speak, Just measure the original carb for the Outside diameter and length for the neck you can also use it for the hold down screw distance. The inside Dia was matched to the carb mine was 11.1 MM or 7/16" the original is .375".
I then measured the longest outside OD of the Walbro for the top flange diameter, I made that .250 thick for good thread support. The cut away flats on each side was again measured to the Walbro along with the pulse hole. The insulator was made from Delrin to the same configuation of the adapter. G-10 will also work here, I made it 1/8" inch thick. I used 5 mm bolts to hold things together with gaskets between each surface, and an Oring like the original used. I used a 6-32 pressure nipple on the adapter and an 8-32 on the engine. But tower carries the one that will go into one of the top bolts for the pulse line. If you look up parts for the OS 140 its in there list.
The prop hub I had to modify to get a magnet in it, I just turned it down and shrunk a bushing over it then turned it to the proper size and added the magnet. When the key is straight down the engine is at TDC it takes a little figureing to place the hall sensor in the correct place, you want it in the middle of travel if possible to adjust the timing if needed to come up with 28-30 degrees set with a degree wheel. I used the 3mm screws that come with the bracket for the hall sensor and a bottom tap, if you need to replace the bearings, that would be a good time to drill and tap these holes, since my bearings was new and I didn't wish to tear the engine back down to remove them I just used the bottom tap and all was well. I used the 1/4x32 Spark plug and matching igntion, however you can drill it out and Spot face it and retap it for a 10mm plug (CM6) but you may need to use an extra washer so the plug doesn't go into the cylinder to deep and hit the piston at TDC. I'm guessing on that but to my eye it looks like there could be a conflick.
As for the cost I got the ign and plug from Agape hobbys 54.99 ign and 10.00 for the plug. The carb (WT-499) was obtained at Davesmotors.com for 32.99 if memory serves me right, This carb does not have a choke on it. So figure 100 bucks or so like W8ye said plus the in house stuff. I have not got enough time on it yet to say what the correct oil ratio will be, but a person can't go to far astray with 10% myself I used 20-1 and think I will go to 16-1 just to be on the safe side.
My engine just has a fresh overhaul new bearings and a ring the P&L was in good shape so there was no point in replaceing it, after a complete breakin I expect the RPM's to maybe gain a few, but I am not at all dissapointed in what it shows so far.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

The compression strength is where is it very unstable, darn stuff will move all over. When ever I can I use Delrin and not Teflon for that reason.

BadAzzMaxx

Ken Lambert makes some carb adapters, Does not show one for the 160 but i bet if you emailed him he could make them.

http://lambertsrc.homestead.com/Forsale.html

Milton

KenLambert

My Feedback: (107)

here is a video of OS 160 running on gas
http://www.lambertsrc.com/VIDEOS.html

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Ken do you remember what Prop you were useing on the Video?
and just for grins what carb did you go with?

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

If Ken Lambert doesn't have the adapters in stock, I can make up a few if anyone is interested.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Cyberwolf - how much would you charge for a carb adapter for the 160? And do we also also need a "timing ring"? What is the timing ring for, to have something to bolt the Hall Sensor to?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

These personal negotiations and prices need to be handled by PM or email