Scota4570

I fellow club member offered to sell me one. I am not interested in glow. So, I need to get another ignition and a couple of sparkplugs. I also need to fabricate a pickup for the hub. I would make an intake manifold adapter for a walbro carb. As I quickly calculate this I see $200 pretty fast.

Are these engines good conversion cantidates? Are there bearings on the crank pin/conrod? If I do it I would prefer not to have another gas mix. Would I have to add a con rod bearing?

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Hi scot.
Go to: tech.flygsw.org/moki210gasser.htm. this might help you deside, also you could just run it on FAI fuel with the Rcexl ignition if you don't wish to change the carb.

Scota4570

Looks like more trouble than it is worth. I would rework the head for a larger sparkplug. The carb adapter and ignition are easy. The link on that site for a guy who will add a con-rod bearing is not functional. I do not want to have multiple cans of fuel laying around so I guess that is that. It would be an interesting project if I got the engine at a really low price. The person wants $100. That is a fair price. The trouble is that it would add up real fast to get a functional gasser.

Even if I made a new con rod that had bearings wouldn't it beat up the crank pin? I read somethng about that being a problem.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Yes, the crankpin has to be changed when running a roller bearing. The crankpin used for bushings is not hardened and will be destroyed by the roller bearing.

AV8TOR

captinjohn

If you coud tap the head for a CM6 sparkplug and use 20-1 oil & gas mix, the engine should work out ok. It sounds like a fun conversion....at least for me. Capt,n

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Captain I don't think I would recommend going as low as 20:1 oil. The larger Super Tigers for example recommend 10% oil which is 10:1.... A fellow might get away with 16:1 if they were very careful never to overheat it and never to run it lean. Even then it would be chancy in my estimation.

Just my opinion....

AV8TOR

captinjohn

You are right...don,t know why I typed 20-1. I do think 16-1 would be ok if you ran the engine easy and do not overload it with to big of a prop. Thanks Capt,n

Scota4570

How come larger engines do not have bering on the con rod as a general rule? Just running slower and have more oil splashing around??

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

It is hard to believe, but studies have shown that a rod bushing/bearing running on a film of oil actually has less friction than a roller bearing. Besides, it is MUCH cheaper.

They made a roller bearing crankshaft for Volkswagen engines, but had a lot of trouble with it. It had to be pressed together like a two stroke crank is, and it kept twisting at the press together joints. It came with a warning to never, ever "dump the clutch" as that would twist the crank.

AV8TOR

Scota4570

"They made a roller bearing crankshaft for Volkswagen engines, but had a lot of trouble with it. It had to be pressed together like a two stroke crank is, and it kept twisting at the press together joints. It came with a warning to never, ever "dump the clutch" as that would twist the crank."

Yeah, I almost built an engine with one. Cooler heads prevailed and I got a 1600 crate engine and only did external mods. A free flowing exhaust, dual webbers and a 009 distributor was pleanty of "GO" for my '62 bug. It would peg the speedo. I am lucky not to have been killed. I see clean old bugs now and then. It is tempting to get another.

Maximiliano Galvez

You dont need bearing on pin rod yiou open hole to 1.8 mm and use 3:1 oil

I think prop +hub + walbro + walbro suport is lees than 99 usd

Regardsmaximiliano

captinjohn

Scota, can you post a couple ofphotos of this engine? Just wondering what exact engine you may have. Thanks, Capt,n

captinjohn

MORE DATA I idid a google search and found a thread where a person did a nice conversion. Below are photos. Capt,n