Homelite 30cc How To Install Crankshaft And Bearings
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Homelite 30cc How To Install Crankshaft And Bearings
Hi Guys,
Does anyone have first hand experience installing the crankshaft and bearings on a 30cc Homelite conversion engine?
The old crankshaft pictured below has been removed, and the bearings are firmly imbetted in place.
Not sure how to get the bearings off the old crankcase.
Also not sure of the sequence and method for reinstalling a new crankshaft and bearings.
If someone knows of a video, that would be a huge help as well.
Thank!
Does anyone have first hand experience installing the crankshaft and bearings on a 30cc Homelite conversion engine?
The old crankshaft pictured below has been removed, and the bearings are firmly imbetted in place.
Not sure how to get the bearings off the old crankcase.
Also not sure of the sequence and method for reinstalling a new crankshaft and bearings.
If someone knows of a video, that would be a huge help as well.
Thank!
#2
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Push the seal back against the rear bearing, and tap the front bearing off with a hammer. Then slide the seal off, and you should be able to get two screwdrivers 180 degrees apart behind the rear bearing, and work it off. That crank looks pretty "grungy", so I would clean it up with the wire wheel on a bench grinder, then polish that part of the shaft with solvent wetted # 400 sandpaper. (Including that flywheel taper interface, but not the crankpin where the con rod goes.)
When re-installing, put some light oil on the crank, and position the rear bearing. Then hitting ONLY the inside race, use a hammer and punch, tap on alternate sides of the inner race, and drive the bearing into place. Then have another close look at the crank to make sure there are no burrs or ugliness that could damage the very important seal. Use ONLY a new seal.
As for the front bearing, thoughly clean and dry the case. If I remember correctly, on the Homelite the seal goes in from the front. You may install it now, or after the next step. The lip of the seal faces to the rear, and once again only use a new seal. Now preheat your oven to 200 degrees. (Unless divorce proceedings are your idea of fun, this is best done when wifey is not around.) Place your crankcase on tin foil (or a cookie sheet if you're really brave), and place the crankcase in the oven for about 20 minutes. While it is in there, place the front bearing and the crankshaft with the rear bearing on it in the freezer. Then using oven mitts, remove the crankcase, install the seal if you hadn't already done so, and then the front bearing. The bearing might actually fall into place, or need only be pushed in with thumb pressure. If it should need a little light hammer persuasion, only tap on the OUTSIDE bearing race. Using a screwdriver, put a small amount of grease on the lip of the seal, and with the crankcase still warm, slide the crankshaft with the rear bearing on it into the case. Be careful not to push the front bearing back out when installing the crank. The crank should turn freely now. If not, some taps with a plastic or brass hammer will align the bearings and allow the crank to turn freely.
AV8TOR
When re-installing, put some light oil on the crank, and position the rear bearing. Then hitting ONLY the inside race, use a hammer and punch, tap on alternate sides of the inner race, and drive the bearing into place. Then have another close look at the crank to make sure there are no burrs or ugliness that could damage the very important seal. Use ONLY a new seal.
As for the front bearing, thoughly clean and dry the case. If I remember correctly, on the Homelite the seal goes in from the front. You may install it now, or after the next step. The lip of the seal faces to the rear, and once again only use a new seal. Now preheat your oven to 200 degrees. (Unless divorce proceedings are your idea of fun, this is best done when wifey is not around.) Place your crankcase on tin foil (or a cookie sheet if you're really brave), and place the crankcase in the oven for about 20 minutes. While it is in there, place the front bearing and the crankshaft with the rear bearing on it in the freezer. Then using oven mitts, remove the crankcase, install the seal if you hadn't already done so, and then the front bearing. The bearing might actually fall into place, or need only be pushed in with thumb pressure. If it should need a little light hammer persuasion, only tap on the OUTSIDE bearing race. Using a screwdriver, put a small amount of grease on the lip of the seal, and with the crankcase still warm, slide the crankshaft with the rear bearing on it into the case. Be careful not to push the front bearing back out when installing the crank. The crank should turn freely now. If not, some taps with a plastic or brass hammer will align the bearings and allow the crank to turn freely.
AV8TOR
Last edited by av8tor1977; 08-10-2017 at 05:46 PM.
#3
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I get all my bearings and seals from these guys: https://www.bocabearings.com
Great, quick service, and good prices. Their standard bearings are as good or in many cases better than original, so there's really not much to gain by buying any of the premium or exotic stuff.
Good luck and let us know how it goes. You will probably be able to actually do the job faster than it took me to write this. (Hunt and peck style typing on a little Kindle compu'.)
AV8TOR
Great, quick service, and good prices. Their standard bearings are as good or in many cases better than original, so there's really not much to gain by buying any of the premium or exotic stuff.
Good luck and let us know how it goes. You will probably be able to actually do the job faster than it took me to write this. (Hunt and peck style typing on a little Kindle compu'.)
AV8TOR
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Av8tor, many many thanks.
The existing crankshaft is not usable.
I am having trouble locating a replacement crankshaft for the 30cc Homey.
I ordered a 25cc crankshaft off ebay thinking it might work,
but then I read that the counterbalance is different for the 30cc
Google searches all seem to require a Trimmer/Chainsaw model number or a part number.
I have neither.
Any idea how can I locate a replacement crankshaft for the 30cc engine?
Thanks.
Steve
The existing crankshaft is not usable.
I am having trouble locating a replacement crankshaft for the 30cc Homey.
I ordered a 25cc crankshaft off ebay thinking it might work,
but then I read that the counterbalance is different for the 30cc
Google searches all seem to require a Trimmer/Chainsaw model number or a part number.
I have neither.
Any idea how can I locate a replacement crankshaft for the 30cc engine?
Thanks.
Steve
#5
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The 30cc Homelite were not nearly as numerous as the 25cc. I don't know why, as the weight is identical, but the 30cc engines are a good bit more powerful. The 30cc was often used in leaf blowers, and I have noticed they used them in some later model Ryobi string trimmers. (Weedeaters) Homelite parts are getting harder to find.
Often times it is beneficial to do a general web search, including on e-bay, etc., and try to find a machine that has your engine in it. Then from there, swipe the brand and model number to go parts hunting. For the parts themselves, I often use jackssmallengines.com.
As a last and final resort, you could use the 25cc crank and re-balance the engine. Somewhere around here I have a digital pictorial instruction file on balancing small engines. It works really well, but you would need to have the ability to weld on the crank web to add some weight to it.
Hope this helps,
AV8TOR
Often times it is beneficial to do a general web search, including on e-bay, etc., and try to find a machine that has your engine in it. Then from there, swipe the brand and model number to go parts hunting. For the parts themselves, I often use jackssmallengines.com.
As a last and final resort, you could use the 25cc crank and re-balance the engine. Somewhere around here I have a digital pictorial instruction file on balancing small engines. It works really well, but you would need to have the ability to weld on the crank web to add some weight to it.
Hope this helps,
AV8TOR
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The 30cc, besides being 5cc larger, have larger unobstructed exhaust ports facilitated by a pinned ring..the unpinned rings in the 25cc require a center "post" in the port should a ring rotate and the end catch the port..the 30cc intake port is about the same a the 25 but I'm thinking it could be opened up quite a bit since the ring won't be a problem...locally auctions often have a fine assortment of used weed wackers especially in the spring..most have string and/or fuel system problems so are dirt cheap..