Socket Head For Walbro HS Needle
11-12-2017, 10:23 AM
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Socket Head For Walbro HS Needle
Attached is a photo of a Walbro high speed needle with a socket head which allows for angular adjustment of the needle.
This was a first attempt, and someone may suggest a better way to do this.
But as a starting point, this was the process:
1) The head of a 6-32 socket head bolt was dremeled off, and then the bottom of the head filed flat. Filing is done by placing an allen wrench into the socket head, Place the file flat on your work surface, and drag the allen wrench/socket head across the file.
2) Brass tubing with a 1/4" outside diameter was used as the sleeve to support the solder bond between the socket head and the needle head. The socket head OD varies slightly from the needle head OD. Various diameter punch tools were used to slighty expand both ends of the tubing to fit the socket head and the needle head. Adjust/expand both ends before assembly.
Cut the brass tubing so that its length approximates the combined height of the socket head and the needle head. You don't want the cut tubing to extend below the needle head, as this will affect the fit and tension of the needle spring.
3) Silver solder, liquid flux, and a 200 watt soldering iron were used.
4) Separately apply flux/solder to just the top of the needle and just the bottom of the socket head.
You can drill a small hole in a piece of wood to hold the needle vertical. You can just lay the socket head on the wood bottom side up. Do not allow solder to get on the sides of the socket head or needle, as this will affect the OD and impede insertion into the brass tubing. If you mess up, use a file to remove solder from the sides.
5) After the parts cool, put a drop of liquid flux inside the brass sleeve. Then insert the needle head and hex head from opposite ends so that the pre-soldered sides are making contact with each other.
6) Put the assembly back into the block of wood so that it sits vertically.
7) After the soldering iron is hot, place its flat tip flush against the top of the hex head. With the 200 watt soldering iron, it takes 45-90 seconds before a bit of flux will seep out of the top of the brass sleeve. I've also tried applying the soldering iron to the brass sleeve.
8) After it cools, put the spring back on and reinsert the assembly into the carb.
This was a first attempt, and someone may suggest a better way to do this.
But as a starting point, this was the process:
1) The head of a 6-32 socket head bolt was dremeled off, and then the bottom of the head filed flat. Filing is done by placing an allen wrench into the socket head, Place the file flat on your work surface, and drag the allen wrench/socket head across the file.
2) Brass tubing with a 1/4" outside diameter was used as the sleeve to support the solder bond between the socket head and the needle head. The socket head OD varies slightly from the needle head OD. Various diameter punch tools were used to slighty expand both ends of the tubing to fit the socket head and the needle head. Adjust/expand both ends before assembly.
Cut the brass tubing so that its length approximates the combined height of the socket head and the needle head. You don't want the cut tubing to extend below the needle head, as this will affect the fit and tension of the needle spring.
3) Silver solder, liquid flux, and a 200 watt soldering iron were used.
4) Separately apply flux/solder to just the top of the needle and just the bottom of the socket head.
You can drill a small hole in a piece of wood to hold the needle vertical. You can just lay the socket head on the wood bottom side up. Do not allow solder to get on the sides of the socket head or needle, as this will affect the OD and impede insertion into the brass tubing. If you mess up, use a file to remove solder from the sides.
5) After the parts cool, put a drop of liquid flux inside the brass sleeve. Then insert the needle head and hex head from opposite ends so that the pre-soldered sides are making contact with each other.
6) Put the assembly back into the block of wood so that it sits vertically.
7) After the soldering iron is hot, place its flat tip flush against the top of the hex head. With the 200 watt soldering iron, it takes 45-90 seconds before a bit of flux will seep out of the top of the brass sleeve. I've also tried applying the soldering iron to the brass sleeve.
8) After it cools, put the spring back on and reinsert the assembly into the carb.
11-13-2017, 09:42 AM
#2
Nice job. Yours looks better than mine. On an uncowled airplane, I just solder a brass tube onto the high speed needle. I then flatten the tubing with a pliers, grind that part rounded, and use it like that for adjusting with my fingers. On cowled installations, I solder on a brass tube with a short piece of music wire soldered into it crossways. I have a long thin screwdriver that I modified with a tube with a slot on the end, that engages the modified needle valve. I provide a hole in the cowl with a grommet in it for access. Engagement is secure enough that I can insert the screw driver, then start the engine and fine tune the top end.
Yours looks very professional. If you painted it black, one would think it was OEM. Nice post presenting it too. A lot of people are terrified of soldering but they shouldn't be. There are three basic keys:
1. CLEAN PARTS! (sanded, wire brushed, scraped, whatever.)
2. USE FLUX! (Acid or Paste, or ROSIN only for electrical work.)
3. ENOUGH HEAT! (Your heat source should ideally be able to heat the parts enough to melt the solder in around 5 seconds more or less.)
A complete used Homey 25cc will be headed your way this week. Just have to get off my butt and strip it for shipping....
AV8TOR
Yours looks very professional. If you painted it black, one would think it was OEM. Nice post presenting it too. A lot of people are terrified of soldering but they shouldn't be. There are three basic keys:
1. CLEAN PARTS! (sanded, wire brushed, scraped, whatever.)
2. USE FLUX! (Acid or Paste, or ROSIN only for electrical work.)
3. ENOUGH HEAT! (Your heat source should ideally be able to heat the parts enough to melt the solder in around 5 seconds more or less.)
A complete used Homey 25cc will be headed your way this week. Just have to get off my butt and strip it for shipping....
AV8TOR
11-13-2017, 09:54 AM
#3
Note: Don't fret about sacrificing the 25cc for parts for your next Homey 30cc. I have souped up and used the 25cc numerous times, but now that the identical 30cc can be found/had again, it is a much better base for a conversion and I don't mind sacrificing the 25's. I probably have extra flywheels as well, so don't worry about hole sawing the middle out of one. (Once you do one with CDI instead of the mag, I don't think you'll ever want to go back to the mag anyway....)
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
11-15-2017, 08:12 AM
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Thanks Av8tor.
Years ago I bought an RCS/Moki 140 gasoline (22cc) with CDI. European made, not Chinese.
I also have a VVRC 20cc with CDI. .
Other than the weight issue, what I like most about the Homelite is the simplicity of the magneto.
And no rush on the 25, my garage is overstocked already.
I've been slowly getting airplanes back in flying condition with the hopes of finding willing buyers.
How's your airplane inventory?
Years ago I bought an RCS/Moki 140 gasoline (22cc) with CDI. European made, not Chinese.
I also have a VVRC 20cc with CDI. .
Other than the weight issue, what I like most about the Homelite is the simplicity of the magneto.
And no rush on the 25, my garage is overstocked already.
I've been slowly getting airplanes back in flying condition with the hopes of finding willing buyers.
How's your airplane inventory?
11-15-2017, 10:38 AM
#5
Oh god, I have quite a fleet of planes, certainly more than I need, and still have a good many cool ones yet to be built!! I actually tried to sell a couple a while back, but nobody wants to pay anywhere near what they are worth so I decided to keep them. I also have "pet engine" projects I want to get to, but everything has been held up these past three years with my back surgeries and all the turmoil that has put my life in.
I got your engine stripped out of the blower yesterday, and started to box it up. But I am short a couple of pieces that had been robbed off of it. (Muffler, backplate, etc.) Since you are not in a hurry for it, I have a trip planned back to my old home to visit my daughter, and I know I have what is needed there, so I will wait and send everything to you together when I get back. Expect it to be on its way to you shortly after the first, ok?
AV8TOR
I got your engine stripped out of the blower yesterday, and started to box it up. But I am short a couple of pieces that had been robbed off of it. (Muffler, backplate, etc.) Since you are not in a hurry for it, I have a trip planned back to my old home to visit my daughter, and I know I have what is needed there, so I will wait and send everything to you together when I get back. Expect it to be on its way to you shortly after the first, ok?
AV8TOR
