Prop adapter drawing
10-01-2004, 01:08 PM
#1
Prop adapter drawing
Can anybody share a dimensional drawing for a prop adapter for the Homelite 25?
If this has been posted previous, please accept my apologies. I have searched the forum and have not found any.
Thank you in advance!
Todd Coleman
If this has been posted previous, please accept my apologies. I have searched the forum and have not found any.
Thank you in advance!
Todd Coleman
10-04-2004, 10:18 AM
#3
RE: Prop adapter drawing
Hi,
Well, the adapters are available commercially, or here's how I do it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_16...tm.htm#1612428
W8YE-- Search still doesn't work worth a darn. I spent 20 minutes searching for this thread for him, and I already KNEW it was there, (somewhere)!
AV8TOR
Well, the adapters are available commercially, or here's how I do it: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_16...tm.htm#1612428
W8YE-- Search still doesn't work worth a darn. I spent 20 minutes searching for this thread for him, and I already KNEW it was there, (somewhere)!
AV8TOR
10-04-2004, 03:13 PM
#5
RE: Prop adapter drawing
A diameter of 1 1/4" works fine. Check the face of your prop. Then make it as long as you need it. As you can see from my picture, it can run just fine pretty close to the engine if you don't need a longer extension for cowl clearance. Drill and tap to fit the crankshaft, and drill and tap the other end to fit the prop bolt or stud you intend to use. If you have a mill, milling a couple of flats to fit a wrench is nice. This is all assuming you are going to run the magneto. If not, you have to figure a way to adapt to the crankshaft taper. What I do is use a hole saw to drill out the center of the magneto, and I use that as my adaptation to the taper.
Good luck,
AV8TOR
Good luck,
AV8TOR
10-04-2004, 04:20 PM
#6
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RE: Prop adapter drawing
This was for a Ryobi, but may give you some ideas. For me UHMW was not a good material..Too slick slippage. G-10 OK so far.
Without a mill for flats, you may want to consider a hole in the center of the narrow section to insert a 1/8" or larger piece of music wire to use for tightening and loosening. Adjust bolt length for hole clearance.
Without a mill for flats, you may want to consider a hole in the center of the narrow section to insert a 1/8" or larger piece of music wire to use for tightening and loosening. Adjust bolt length for hole clearance.
10-05-2004, 02:33 AM
#7
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RE: Prop adapter drawing
I found that if you tap 5/16"-24, all the way through, from one end you will have an adapter that runs true. I've been a toolmaker for many years, and have found that it's hard to keep proper alignment of the tapped holes, tapping from each end, unless you have very good equipment and a lot of experience. You may have to grind the diameter of the tap shank to allow it to pass all the way through the hole in the adapter.
Nashcat
Nashcat
10-06-2004, 12:06 AM
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RE: Prop adapter drawing
Nashcat
I learned about continuous tapping when the machinist did mine. Glad he had the proper tap. It was neat watching him work...his tap was not only ground down diameter wise but it had an indent for the 'tail piece' to hold it centered.
The drawing does show an offcentered bore and "ends" should not have been plural.
I learned about continuous tapping when the machinist did mine. Glad he had the proper tap. It was neat watching him work...his tap was not only ground down diameter wise but it had an indent for the 'tail piece' to hold it centered.
The drawing does show an offcentered bore and "ends" should not have been plural.
