carlosponti

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my brother brought be a 33cc homelite engine from a chainsaw and it looks rather odd. but anyhow has anyone converted one quite like it. the picture is from the same looking engine but i got the picture from ebay. i will post more info later about the carb. its a walbro but i am not sure what size. also i am rethinking my homelite 25cc on my cap(hanger 9 120 sized) for this engine any thoughts on that? the reason i say its odd is its extra flange material at the bottom of the crankcase and also the intake manifold is at the bottom of the crankcase.

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Carlos,
The engine is from a Homelite XL chain saw. It is either a 30cc or a 26cc reed valve engine. My 26cc has a HDA 60 carb with 11mm venturi. It has roller bearings and no needles at the wrist pin. Here is a picture of someones conversion.

Dave

carlosponti

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i looked on the carb and its marked HDC 65C i cannot tell how big the engine is i think its probably the 30cc. would you have any idea how big this one is? did you know a final weight? will these have more torque than the weedeater engines?

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Carlos,
The HDA-65 is 11mm. I don't have any info on the HDA-65, but it would seem to be larger for a 30cc version. The engine will come out lighter then a trimmer after trimming the case. The trick is setting up the case thrust bearing area for low drag. The previous attempts have had low rpm, around 7,000. I think this is caused by drag in the thrust bearing. The intake is reed and the cylinder porting is advanced. Mine is: Exhust 75 degrees BBDC(150 degrees duration) and transfer 58 degrees BBDC(116 degrees duration. Weight should be around 3.5 lbs. The shaft is 5/16x24 thread.

Dave

carlosponti

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on the walbro site there is a list of carb's and you can find out what it was put on if you know the manufacturer and type of engine(ie chainsaw weedie etc) the HDC-65C is from a super 2 apparently i am trying to find out for sure what the displacement is. the thrust bearing is the main bearing one the piston arm, no? the roller bearings on the crankshaft came out of the metal casing they were held in so when i get it back together i will have to re-grease them. the main thrust bearing is a roller type and seems smooth. did you cut off the clutch side shaft?

here is the HDC-65

HDC-65-1

Flypaper 2

XL 2 is 1-5/16 bore. Super 2 is 1- 7/16 bore. Both are 1- 3/16 stroke. Both have HDC carb on the bottom of the crankcase. XL2 is 26.2 cc. Super 2 is31.2 cc. Take the muffler off. Stick a popsicle stick through the port to the other side of the cyl. Push the piston against the stick so the ex port puts a mark on it. Measure the stick from end to mark to find the bore size. Hope this helps.

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Carlos,
Mine had brass stepped washers between the roller bearings and the counter weights. I cut off the clutch shaft with a hack saw and dressed it with a file. It uses the HDA 60 so you must have the larger engine. The muffler is easy to modify.

Dave

carlosponti

My Feedback: (1)

mine had the same brass washers between the counter wieghts and the roller bearings. i measured the bore and it was about a 1- 5/16". the HDC-65-1 was a 11.13 venturi so i am opting to believe its a 26 based on those two things. the piston is the same size as my homelite string trimmers. i kinda wonder if there was a roller thrust bearing out there to replace the brass thrust washer. i think it would make the engine spin more freely. i have some amount of work ahead to get it finished and mounted. also i have a different muffler setup. mine isnt on the back of the engine its on the side of the engine. looks to be a fun project!

Flypaper 2

I doubt if you would find a noticeable difference with a roller thrust brg. Quadra 35-42 always ran brass thrust washers from the 70s. If you want to try it, take the thrust washer and take it to a brg supplier to see if they can match up the same thickness with a roller thrust brg.

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Carlos,
I am surpized that your exhust is on the side. My XL saw was a flat package with a horizontal cylinder. My reed has a problem and I think that it may by why the saw was disgarded. I doesn't seat completly against the insulator. It is held togather with steel rivits. If I replace the rivits with sheet metal screws I will be able the flatenit out. Parts may be hard to find. My 33cc McCulloch saw is the same style with a piston port intake and has no brass washers. I think that it should run ok using the roller cage as a thrust bearing. Locktite will be used to secure the roller cage.

Dave

carlosponti

My Feedback: (1)

the muffler is held together buy the one screw that holds it secure to the engine. when you take it off the two pieces fall away from each other kind like the muffler on the homelite weedeaters. i would like to either find new gaskets or make my own because the originials were too far gone to put back on. when i was taking the engine apart they were coming apart. however aside from the bearings not being sealed ones i was happy with the condition of the engine and all the parts. my brother ran the engine before when it was still a chainsaw.