Lureman

Ok you motor heads help me out with this 1 were can I get a good lathe or milling machine for these conversions!!!!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Lure, I've been seriously looking at both in the MicroMark catalogue, I base this on the fact that I already have their MicroLux, table saw, digital drill press, band saw, variable speed drill, belt sander, planer and many other of their hand tools. Every one is high quality and so far long lasting.

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Lureman, I have 2 lathes right now. My "new" lathe is a Clausing 5903 12X24, the other is a 4900 series 10X24 I am selling. I started with the Micromark but could not ever get the accuracy where I wanted it. Sold that and bought the 4900 and now the 5900 I bought from a highway department. For what you will have invested in the mini lathe you are way better off buying a smaller but bigger tool room type lathe. I had over $800.00 invested in mine with chucks and assorted accessories. You will be much more happy as I sure am. Let me know if you are interested in my smaller lathe as I am getting ready to list it on ****.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I bought an ENCO 9x20. Not the best in quality but once you figure it out its real handy and the price is ok. Has done everything I've needed it to so far. Would have been nicer to get the next size up. It already comes setup for a quick change tool post. I had to modify mine, well worth it. Will be making some struts for my spitfire and build a set of retracts and struts from my zero. Got the mill too.
Edwin

Lureman

Man guys its been like 20 years last time I used a lathe it was in school. Tim how much would you want for your lathe?? and would you have some pics of it. I dont want to even think of the shipping on it. I'll look up the micromark stuff and give it a gander. and who said conversions are cheap hehe

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Lureman, send me a PM or email so I can get your address to email you some pictures. The last one I bought was $400.00 to ship about 1000 miles. That one weighs 1300# this one weighs about 700# or so. We can talk price then too.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tim, did you have the newest red version of the MicroMark lathe or the older version, Thanks

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

I had the newer version. About a year ago maybe a little less than that.

beams

My Feedback: (23)

Check out lathemaster.com. He has some good lathes and mills at resonable prices.

Dr Evil

Woo hoo! I just scored a 7"x12" mini lathe that had been seriously enhanced with ball bearings and such. Now I gotta figure out how to use it and make hubs for me and my fellows.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Beams,
Good link. Saved that one to my favorites list. Any of you use the indexable tool holders. Gonna try it out at the suggestion from a buddy. Is it worth it and do the index bits last very long on mostly aluminum use.
Edwin

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

Question for the lathe guru's. I need to make some hubs and can't seem to find anything to do the tapered bore like on the a flywheel. I know some turn down the flywheel to make a base then make the prop hub, but I have some engines where that just won't work. I have a Harbor Freight 7X10 lathe the works well for me.

dbryan

A tapered reamer cut to the right angle is the fastest way, then you have to broach the keyway.

blueberry

These would work too just set your tool holder at the proper angle.
http://www.lathemaster.com/BORINGBARSETpc.htm

Pete

beams

My Feedback: (23)

I started using a quick change tool post and the indexable bit holders a couple of monthes ago. They both were very good investments. Most of the turning I do is with aluminum. The indexable bits cut faster, cleaner and stay sharper longer than HSS.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Beams,
Thats good to hear. Pretty much the same reasons I am trying them out. I bought two kinds of bits. Only difference is the radius of the cutting tip.
Edwin

mac49

My Feedback: (5)

It would be greatly appreciated if those who are in the know could put a few digital how-to's in this thread for those of us learning these skills. Prop hubs and glow plug adapters would be great starters. Lay-out, set-up, cutting, finishing, help!

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Maybe a machining and fabricating forum would be a good idea. I am still learning for the most part. Just doing practice cutting on my mill. But on the lathe I've made spinner back plates, turned down flywheels on ryobi's, made prop hubs, and lengthened some struts for my spitfire. I will eventually make my own retracts. Dont know if I'll ever try to make any money at it. Then it might not be fun.
Edwin

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Hey all. If you want to turn a taper in the prop hub to fit the crank you need to set the compound slide over at an angle. There should be a scale on the compound. Most of the ones I do have a 6 to 8 degree angle. All you do is set the compound over to half the included angle, say 4 degrees for an 8 degree angle. Use a boring bar and take your time turning the compound feed handle to feed the tool.
There is a simple math formula you can use to calculate the exact angle to set the compound at. Very fast and easy to do this way.

bdtsr

My Feedback: (5)

I was kind of hoping that a correct size tool would be available to chuck up on the lathe. Still learning this stuff. I turned down my Ryobi flywheel the other day. Came out pretty good.

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

While there are tools that may do the task finding one is another story. I have had a mill cutter ground to size for an Echo because I do many of them, otherwise it is not worth the time or money. There are just too many variables in shaft lengths. Unless you are producing many at a time it is easier and cheaper to set the compound at an angle. Besides it is so much fun making chips while trying new techniques. Also on some smaller engines, say under 30 cc you don't even need a taper. Just drill a hole and bore to fit the shaft, thread the bore and loctite it on. The hub is always trying to tighten anyway when running. Have one like this on an Echo 23.6 in an Eindecker for a year now. Works perfect.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I just cheat big time. I use a hole saw to cut the center out of the flywheel, dress it down on the o.d., drill it for a magnet, and tighten my prop adapter against that. Works great!

Sometimes I don't even use a prop adapter if the engine has a long crank snout, or if I have a "stud nut"...

(One of these engines turns 9000, the other 9400 rpms. No abnormal vibration, never have loosened up in many, many flights.)

AV8TOR

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

No matter how you get the job done, the guys at the field will be left scratching their collective heads and grabbing what is left of their shredded wallets. After all we can't possibly get the same and better performance than they get by spending little or nothing on our non brand name engines. I could do them like you but then I can't justify having the lathe and mill with all the tooling in the shop.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Luckily, I fly from remote locations alone or with a friend or student, and don't have to deal with the "nose in the air" type people, but it sure is a gas to see the look on the faces of the "common folk" when I tell them the engine is out of a weedeater or chainsaw!! It's would be hard also to top the personal satisfaction of doing it. Priceless all that...

I have a lathe now, and will buy a mill soon, but I may continue to solve the "taper problem" this way. It sounds tricky to do a taper to this "newbie" to machine tools...

AV8TOR

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

While I do understand what you are saying, I would add that if you buy a couple books on machining you will see how easy it is to turn the tapers. Good luck.