captinjohn

I noticed that the taper inside my GT25cc engine is not machined ito the flywheel. It is cast in only. The flywheel will move a little from side to side before you tighten nut. To me this could end up giving a sligt wobble. Not good!! Is it possible to get a tapered reamer with the same taper as crank or 1 degree more or less. Its seems like getting a true fit of flywheel to crank would be desired. RCIGN1 may know. Ralf whats the possible ways to correct this? Thanks Capt,n

flyjoe540

cap'n
you could try lapping compound if the key is removable,and lapp it till it fits, if its close.

flipflop

For crying out loud, just put it together and tighten it up, it will be fine. There's probably a couple of million Toro weedeaters out there exactly like yours with no flywheel wobble.

teddywilk

My Feedback: (10)

A LATHE IS THE BEST AY TO GET IT PERFECT. 1ST AND BEST WAY TO GET THE CORRRECT TAPER ANGLE IS TO REMOVER THE CRANK AND CHUCK IT UP SO U CAN FOLLOW THE ANGLE WITH UR COMPOUND USING AN INDICATOR. MAYBE SOMEONE HERE KNOWS WHAT THE ANGLE IS WHICH WOULD SAVE A LOT OF TIME. I MADE A PROP HUB FOR MY SHINDAWA THIS WAY AND ITS PERFECTLY TRUE. THEN CHUCK UP THE FLYWHEEL AND MACHINE THE TAPER AND THE FACE THAT THE PROP HUB SET AGAINST. IF THE KEY IS CAST INTO THE FLYWHEEL YOU MIGHT NEED TO MARK ITS POSITION AND BROACH IN A KEYWAY BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE CHUCK. LOTS OT WORK FOR A LITTLE WOBBLE BUT 8000RPM CAN REALLY VIBRATE.
FARMER TED

captinjohn

flipflop: I should have expalined it better. The prop adapter seats against the flywheel. Now any small misalighment will ne magnified by any prop extension. We do not want any wobble in prop I would think. I know as it is in the blower or device the engine is it ...it wil not matter.

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

The Ryobi is also a cast taper. Remachining one of these is about impossible because they also have a cast in key. If you redo the taper you lose the key.

captinjohn

Teddywikk: Thats sounds very good to me. now.....could I just take and cut off a crankshaftend and use it to mount the flywheel into lathe and machine off face of fllwheel. Then it flywhell would be square to crankshaft. I could use the same cut off crankshaft on any flywheel that has same taper. I an not sure on this? Thanks Capt,n

captinjohn

Not a Ryobi. Just want to clean up taper... so the fit is better. Thats all.....just a clean-up of finnish. thanks Capt,n .......FlyJoe540... Thats a good idea. I am going to place a thin coat of blue-ing on crankshaft and see how the parts mate. Then go from there. Maybe just a lap job. Capt,n

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Can't be done with a case in key unless you want to cut the cast key off and figure out where the flywheel goes when you put it back on...Put some Loctite on the taper and bolt the flywheel on tight with the new hub or a nut.....When the loctite is set up take the hub or nut back off..the flywheel will stay on the shaft..Bolt the engine upright in a mill and carefull machine the face of the flywheel where the hub seats, slowly turning the flywheel by hand.....be sure the engine is held tightly, and go slow..Makes a perfect 90 degree face to the crank, and if the hub has parallel faces there will be no prop tip runout...

captinjohn

RCIGN1....your the man. You know you probably mentioned that before....you know I think the rest us do not remeber as good on this machining stuff. Capt,n

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

Or if the flywheel is true on the back side, should be more so than the case and flywheel together, just lay it on the mill table and face the front of it. I would think the engine would be off on the back with the flywheel on it more than just the flywheel on the table. I see lots of guys running these and I know they didn't get too concerned with the face. Whatever way you clean up the face it will be better than not.

BillS

Capt’n,

Mount the flywheel and put a dial indicator on it and you will know if it is true.

Bill

captinjohn

Bills: I wish I had a dial indicator. When I get over to my cousins place.....I will have acces to all that good stuff. I think I will pick up a dial indicator to have here. A good used one will do. I did blue the parts (crankshaft end to flywheel) It did not transfer much bluing beyond the fisrt 3/16 inward. The contack was fair all way around...just about. That was with the nut tight. Capt,n

flipflop

That's not going to tell you anything either. I've converted a bunch of engines and haven't seen a ROUND flywheel yet (OK Ralph, except on Zenoahs). On my Toro, I mounted the flywheel on an old crank and turned the boss on the back of the flywheel round so it would be running dead true to the crank and while I was there I went ahead and removed the fins. Now, with the boss on the back running true you can mount it in your chuck and face the front and bore the hole so a normal size prop hub can be used.

captinjohn

flipflop: That sounds like a very good way to get things right. Everthing should run true it seems. Good going. Capt,n

Dr1Driver

Don't mess with it. The wobble is typical when the nut isn't tight. When you tighten it, the crank taper will match the flywheel taper.

Dr.1

captinjohn

When I get a chance....I will make prop hub and check for run out a blabe tip. If its close ...I sure will leave it alone. Capt,n

BillS

Capt’n,

There is no run out on the blade tips of the engines that I have been testing. The prop hub seats against the face of the flywheel.

Bill