TIGITRIGHT

Thats what makes it more practical.theres more room under the cowl.Im going to be adding some updates to this mod real soon to better performance.One update is going to a micro screen between the heat shield and manifold.This adds a fogger affect to the intake charge instead of letting droplets of gas pass that don't burn as effective.It will vaporize the droplets making the power stroke about 10% or more effective.This has already been proven in automotive racing engins.

__________________________________________________ _
Here is what this Poulan is going on.\|/ From model aviation mag. AMA PLANS #00987 Except mine is slightly larger scale(wing span84=mine86-fuse66 1/2=mine68 1/2

TIGITRIGHT

hollbrow:Thank you very much,theres more to come when I get around to it,Later

TIGITRIGHT

This Poulan runs good and strong.I have however decided to go with elontronic with the ignition.Starting a cold Poulan with mag ign. is not all that easy.Even with a drill starter.
So to carry less items to the field Im going to go with a S&S 9600 CDI with a custom rotor
designed for a Zenoah hub.This way the rotor is torqued down to the crank and(keyed?),and the hub is centered to the rotor by the standoff design and bolted to it just like I hade the mag setup.
Other than that I added a very fine screen between the heat shield and manifold.I got It swinging a Masterairscrew Scimitar Profile 20-10 prop.Don't have any spec,s yet.I want to get this S&S on it first.Here's a pic of what Im going to get.Ain't it pretty

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

You don't need the key, I quit using keys on Zenoah conversions about 16 years ago...If the taper is made right it takes a good puller to get the hub off the crank..The key is there only to orient the hub on the crank during assembly...Ask anyone who ever had the hub nut come loose, the key shears instantly....

digitman

tigitright,Im new to rc and really like boats.I want to build a large v-hull.My uncle is a fiberglass wiz and said he would build it.I was wondering if this type of engine would work on a boat as long as it had air cooling?Also where do you get that elontronic ingnition from?Thanks,Randy B

TIGITRIGHT

Everybody has ther own beliefs and ways of doing things.Are you the person that said there was only one Zenoah hub that fit the Poulan..........
"There are 2 different G38 hubs..The one that works on the Poulan is the old original one...The original hub was used for about 15 years...It was steel...It threaded onto the end of the crank and also held the flywheel on...A few years ago it was changed to the new style aluminum hub that bolts to the flywheel with 2 6mm allen bolts..The flywheel is held on the crank by an 8mm nut, same thread as the old steel hub...It worked that way for at least 15 years before the update...I have seen many bent ones but have not seen one that broke off..The steel hub bends and the threads on the end of the crank bend, but so far no broken ones"...

You have your's and I have mine.......

TIGITRIGHT

I have no knowledge of boats but there is a few guys in here that mess with'em.Bigboat can answer this better than I can.Its a good engine though...

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

That's my quote about the G38 hubs...The old one screws on the end of the crank and replaces the nut, the new one requires 2 tapped holes in the flywheel to hold it on..Either way works...
Or you can get a custom hub made of aluminum to bolt the G38 aluminum hub to....
My point was about the key..Unless you're doing a run of identical hubs for a specific engine it's easier to leave the key out and just put the hub on the crank in the right place for timing....That way you don't have to figure out where to key the hub..You can put the sensor anywhere convenient...Like you say, everyone to his own way and belief...
Are you the person that said steel expands more than T6 aluminum ? Little, if any ?
No steel I ever worked with....

TIGITRIGHT

Your right about the hub and the keyway,weather its there or not makes no differance one way or the other.Back to the hubs,and you said that only the old one would work QUOTE:"The one that works on the Poulan is the old original one..."Now your saying either of the two will work only after Iv shown with many pictures that the new style works.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I don't see the word "only" anywhere in the post....
There are many ways of doing the same thing, screwing an old steel G38 hub on the crank to replace the nut is only one of many...
If you go to rcfaq.com and look on the pictures of the converted Poulan you will see another way...I made that one in 2002 or 2003, one of the first Poulan 46s to be converted to EI....
Sorry, I should have put "without machining" in there somewhere...

TIGITRIGHT

Thats cool.I thought you were saying that only the old style would work.Im now going to electronic ignition.Roy is making up a hub that will fit the Poulan and use my new Zenoah g-38 hub.He explaines that there would be no key and it did'nt need it.I guess im more an automotive machanic
and would expect a keyway.example-camshaft,crankshaft timing componets etc.On these items,the key actually holds the timing from walking and is not just there for assembly purposes.
As far as metal expansion well,Iv been a welder all my life.All metal expands when heated,some more than others..............[8D]Sorry for the misunderstanding.

captinjohn

Here is something to try.....take a flywheel off engine. Make sure both crakshaft and inside taper on flywheel is clean. Then shove the flywheel back on crankshaft with both hands real firmly. If the taper is a good fit...you will have a very hard time pulling the flywheel off by hand. The ones with a poor fit will not lock on cranshaft very good. If you place loctite on taper and then tighten nut down.....it is just as good as any key. It will not slip timing. Very simple stuff. Capt,n[:-]

TIGITRIGHT

Thanks for the tip captinjohn,Ill have to try it sometime[sm=thumbup.gif]

Bigboat

You can use a aircooled engine in a boat, but.....beware.......you need a lot of air intake.
Not only to cool down the engine but also for the carburator.
[link=http://www.modelbouw.gompy.net/bigscale/big.htm]Here[/link] you can find a engineconvertion of a Toro (?) 18CC, it's easy todo.

You can find a homemade electronicignition [link=http://www.modelbouw.gompy.net/newcdi/newcdi.htm]here[/link]

digitman

BIGBOAT:Im not to good on building elontronics.Thanks alot for the info and links.Would the ignition pictured in this thread (S&S) work as well?It appears to be a simple install.And where do you get this stuff?Thanks,Randy B

Bigboat

Every ignition will work, most (weed/blower/aso) engines are not diffecult with there ignition.
Send Roy (S&S) a email and ask wat you whant, it's a very nice guy.
You can buy two ignitions from S&S for the price of a CH-ignition.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Best you re check the prices, I don't think you can even get ONE S&S for the price of a comparable C&H....
Comparable prices ? An S&S G62 kit is $219, intro price $189, uses the stock hub and no mount...
My G62 ignition is $175 with a lighter hub AND the ignition is INSIDE a new cup mount...No kits, I install the parts...

TIGITRIGHT

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>ignition systems only<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
CH Electronics Part #27 above with built in Syncro Spark .......... $144.95
307 857 6897
SS-9600-CC MSRP $159.95 Introductory Special $139.95 [sm=thumbup.gif]
419 452 6042
Roy's is 5 bucks cheaper at this time,Lighter and looks nice with 24-7 customer support

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Whatever, still a long ways from 2 S&S for the price of 1 C&H..
24-7 ? Right.....
Round can VS square box ? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder

TIGITRIGHT

Whats yours look like...................

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Here ya go, with permission from Tom Pierce.best web page I EVER saw..If I had known about the close ups, I would have taken more of the burrs off
www.tompierce.net/190/html/building/RCign.htm
@#$%^Always take me about 3 tries to get it right....

TIGITRIGHT

Nice looking one piece.I was unable to view anything on your web site (rcignition.com)

Bigboat

[link=http://www.bcmaengines.clearwire.net/BCMAProducts.htm]CDI-price[/link]

TIGITRIGHT

http://cncengines.com/electronics.html [sm=biggrin.gif]

rsholl

My Feedback: (2)

Just wanted to clear up a couple of things. First, the G-62 Kit is a complete bolt on system. The old Zenoah rotor is removed and replaced with our lightened rotor. Second, we do not use the original Zenoah coil, ours is mounted inside the ignition module which weighs less than 4 oz. We use a billeted aluminum spark plug cap for easy installation and to suppress EMI emissions. We do like to hear from the model community so don't hesitate to email us direct at [email protected] . I don't always have time to keep up with all the forums. Thanks, Roy Sholl