Super tiger 2300- gas
#103
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Hi Ken,
How are you? Hope you're still busy with conversion of ST engines...
Appreciate guidance on initial settings of the high and low needle of a Super Tigre 325.
I've ran the ST 325 but engine stops running, particularly when reaching its high end rpm when fully advancing the throttle stick on the translitter. Engine runs well on its horizontal position, but chokes or seems to loose power when nose of engine /plane is pointed up. Am I running lean? I've checked the gas tank and clunk inside as well, both are ok with the clunk having enough distance from the end of the tank.
My current settings for high needle is about 3 1/2 turns. Engine has already run about 3 tanks, tank having capacity of about 600cc.
By the way, for making adjustments to lean or rich the engine, this should be done 1/8s of turn?
Appreciate your feedback. Thanks by the way for converting my 325 Super Tigre engine! I'm looking forward to many flights with this engine.
How are you? Hope you're still busy with conversion of ST engines...
Appreciate guidance on initial settings of the high and low needle of a Super Tigre 325.
I've ran the ST 325 but engine stops running, particularly when reaching its high end rpm when fully advancing the throttle stick on the translitter. Engine runs well on its horizontal position, but chokes or seems to loose power when nose of engine /plane is pointed up. Am I running lean? I've checked the gas tank and clunk inside as well, both are ok with the clunk having enough distance from the end of the tank.
My current settings for high needle is about 3 1/2 turns. Engine has already run about 3 tanks, tank having capacity of about 600cc.
By the way, for making adjustments to lean or rich the engine, this should be done 1/8s of turn?
Appreciate your feedback. Thanks by the way for converting my 325 Super Tigre engine! I'm looking forward to many flights with this engine.
#104
That gas/glow fuel has nitro in it, so you should have more power...but more cost for the fuel. Also more mess on airplane. Kens conversion uses a lot less oil in the fuel. Capt,n
#106
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Hi Ken,
I've seen your video on the ST 325, and it sounds and runs great! did you start your initial HIGH needle setting at 4 turns from close? Your LOW needle as well, how many turns did your start from close?
Thanks for your advise, I've changed my fuel lines, cleaned the screen in the carb, and checked the O ring on the carb.
By the way, how many volts were you using to supply your engine module? 2 cell LIPO or Life/A123?
I've seen your video on the ST 325, and it sounds and runs great! did you start your initial HIGH needle setting at 4 turns from close? Your LOW needle as well, how many turns did your start from close?
Thanks for your advise, I've changed my fuel lines, cleaned the screen in the carb, and checked the O ring on the carb.
By the way, how many volts were you using to supply your engine module? 2 cell LIPO or Life/A123?
#109
edit: changed cost figure to be accurate.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 02-28-2015 at 11:17 AM.
#111
I rarely use more than 5% nitro 20% oil in most engines, which costs about $10.80 per gallon. FAI fuel is used for breaking engines in which runs about $8/gal. So my $6/gal figure is a little low. Basically, I pay $2.50-$2.75/gal for methanol, $25/gal castor oil, and $55/gal for nitromethane. This figures into roughly $.02/oz for methanol, $.24/oz castor oil and $.43/oz for nitromethane.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
#112
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I rarely use more than 5% nitro 20% oil in most engines, which costs about $10.80 per gallon. FAI fuel is used for breaking engines in which runs about $8/gal. So my $6/gal figure is a little low. Basically, I pay $2.50-$2.75/gal for methanol, $25/gal castor oil, and $55/gal for nitromethane. This figures into roughly $.02/oz for methanol, $.24/oz castor oil and $.43/oz for nitromethane.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
Thanks
Bob
#116
I have 4-5 different types of engines and each requires a different fuel mix ideally, which would be too expensive to buy a gallon of each of premix. Making my own is such a money saver. Even if fuel was $15/gal. for premix.
#117
My Feedback: (6)
I rarely use more than 5% nitro 20% oil in most engines, which costs about $10.80 per gallon. FAI fuel is used for breaking engines in which runs about $8/gal. So my $6/gal figure is a little low. Basically, I pay $2.50-$2.75/gal for methanol, $25/gal castor oil, and $55/gal for nitromethane. This figures into roughly $.02/oz for methanol, $.24/oz castor oil and $.43/oz for nitromethane.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
The up-front costs of mixing your own fuel is high, but the long term cost is much lower for me.
Thanks,
AV8TOR
#118
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Ken, I have an st2300 that you converted to gas several years ago. I flew it in an Escapade 60 for a few years until the plane smacked the ground. Now I have a Twist 60 fresh on its way to provide a new home for the G2300. I was wondering if you have ever experimented with mouse can muffler or just a macs header by itself? Just trying to save a little weight as the engine and cdi box are already heavier than the heaviest recommended engine. Plus I think the sound would be a lot cooler.
#119
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Wow, a Twist 60 with a G2300? I had one with a Super Tiger .90 converted to gasoline and it was a rocket. I can't imagine one with a 2300! But it might be fun....
Unless you are familiar, the Twist series have a weak spot in the fuselage right at the back edge of the canopy. The fuselage can crack/break, from that point down to the bottom rear of the wing cutout. Mine broke twice at that spot until I got mad and doubled that area with plywood. Maybe a little strengthening there and your engine weight would be ok??
You could also use a Tech Aero battery eliminator and save the weight of the ignition battery.
Anyway, I can vouch for the Twist 40 and the 60. Nice, fun fliers!
AV8TOR
Unless you are familiar, the Twist series have a weak spot in the fuselage right at the back edge of the canopy. The fuselage can crack/break, from that point down to the bottom rear of the wing cutout. Mine broke twice at that spot until I got mad and doubled that area with plywood. Maybe a little strengthening there and your engine weight would be ok??
You could also use a Tech Aero battery eliminator and save the weight of the ignition battery.
Anyway, I can vouch for the Twist 40 and the 60. Nice, fun fliers!
AV8TOR
Last edited by av8tor1977; 03-11-2015 at 07:17 AM.
#120
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Twist 60
Here's a pic of my Twist 60 with the last repair job. If you look closely you can see where the fuselage has been doubled at that weak spot. In this pic it has the Fox .60 in it that I sold it with instead of the Super Tiger .90 converted to gas that I flew it with. (I wouldn't let go of that cool, gas, Super Tiger!)
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
Last edited by av8tor1977; 03-11-2015 at 03:12 PM.
#121
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Great advice aviator, thanks I'll definitely reinforce. My friend has a twist 40 that cracked right there too. The 2300 might be too much engine for the twist, if so I'll put a different engine on it. I live at 5500' asl, so I am in the habit of going big in engine deptartment. Funny you should mention the Tech Areo, that's exactly what I'm running. For battery I have a 2500 mah life.
#122
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I would think the 2300 is to much weight even with good throttle management . they made a 120 size which would be a good size for it , a friend had one with the 2300 and it flew it good but he had a used card and didn't run right , I sent him a new carb and he called to let me know the engine had so much power with that carb it destroyed the airframe in the air, nothing left to fix. but he was so excited about how the engine ran he wasn't upset about the plane. lots of rambling but in short that it way to much engine for a .60 size frame.
#123
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I must be using the wrong carb, as is the engine would barely prop hang my Escapade 60 (15×8 apc, timing set at 28 deg.) I didn't think much of it because I live at over 5500' asl and I just expect everything to put out less power than normal. What carb should I get?
#124
If using a Walbro carb, a size 28 (28/64" = 0.4375") is the right size, it is a 11.1mm venturi which is well suited to a 23cc engine.
Venturi sizes are generally in multiples of 1/16", the one size smaller is a 24 (0.375" or 9.53mm) and a size larger is a 32 (1/2" or 12.7mm).
Size 24 should be the minimum usable and will be good for bigger props at lower RPM. Size 28 will give the best overall power and transition, a size 32 will have most power with smaller props but may have a slightly richer midrange and not the best transition.
Venturi sizes are generally in multiples of 1/16", the one size smaller is a 24 (0.375" or 9.53mm) and a size larger is a 32 (1/2" or 12.7mm).
Size 24 should be the minimum usable and will be good for bigger props at lower RPM. Size 28 will give the best overall power and transition, a size 32 will have most power with smaller props but may have a slightly richer midrange and not the best transition.
#125
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Great advice aviator, thanks I'll definitely reinforce. My friend has a twist 40 that cracked right there too. The 2300 might be too much engine for the twist, if so I'll put a different engine on it. I live at 5500' asl, so I am in the habit of going big in engine deptartment. Funny you should mention the Tech Areo, that's exactly what I'm running. For battery I have a 2500 mah life.
AV8TOR