rcjunkie-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Anyone have any idea what size motor is in the Homelite super 2 textron chainsaw. I tried looking all over the web and can't find out any info. The case doesn't have any info either. Also, will this make a good motor. It has the shaft sticking out of both sides of the case.

Thanks,
Ernie S.

tim220225

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Ernie, all of the engines I have converted have a shaft on both sides of the engine. The side with the taper is what you want, usually I just cut off the other end but leave some protruding past the seal. Same on saws, blowers, and trimmers. As I remember the engine itself is separate from the case of the saw. If that is the case on yours you have an easy conversion as all you need is a Hangar 9 beam mount. No markings on the engine isn.t a big deal as you can measure the bore and stroke to figure what size the engine is. Good luck.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Scan down this link a little ways and there are 8 .JPG image of the complete parts breakdown of the Super II

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23076

rcjunkie-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for your replys. I was just hoping it was at least a 25cc motor as I have 2- 21cc featherlites, 1- 18cc featherlite and 2 ryobi 31cc motors that are ready to go on planes.

Ernie S.

rangerfredbob

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according to acresinternet.com it's either a 31.2 or a 33cc depending on if it's old or newer...

rcjunkie-RCU

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rangerfredbob, Thanks. That's it. I believe that it is the 33cc one by looking at the picture of the chainsaws. The 31.1cc unit had a unit number of 10653 and mine is a 10654 so the newer one must be the one. Thanks for the help. It says the operating range is 10,000rpm to 12,500rpm.

Ernie

moss point mark

all ut 106 are 33 cc the 105 and 104 are 31 , if you cut the crank you will have engine look up probly in mid air and all the work you have done will be wasted, if you cut crank it will unbalance the crank and it WILL burn the seal and will create an air leak wich WILL blow the engine, find a litle 35cc tiller engine will probly be best . good luck and have fun ...

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Sorry but I don't understand and don't agree. I have cut many cranks with no problems. Unless the magneto is used to help balance the engine, which is very rare, and you cut that shaft off and leave the magneto off, there should be no problem. Sometimes I cut the crank just outside the seal and leave the seal in place, sometimes I cut the crank just past the bearing and make a plug for where the seal would go. Of course you do need to disassemble the engine and then cut the crank....

AV8TOR

Scota4570

Before you cut it up be sure it has ball bearings. I cut into one once only to find it had pin bearings. Pin bearings won't take a side load from a prop. You can calculate the displacement of any engine by measuring the stroke and bore with the depth feature of your 6" caliper.

jp1961

I converted an Echo chainsaw engine (30.1 CC). I left the shaft on but removed the pump assembly. *I left it on*because*I though removing it was too much work. *Besides I thought the pump could be used in a smoke system. *

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I had the same idea once, but unfortunately the chain oil pump won't pump anywhere near enough to be used for a smoke oil pump.

Some of the cranks hack saw off fairly easy, others are too tough to hack saw. I just cut one off yesterday. The hack saw was doing it, but very slowly. I did what I usually do on very hard cranks, resorted to using a cutoff wheel in my air cutoff tool. I've done it with Dremel tools and cutoff wheels as well. If you ever try this with the engine assembled, you are taking a chance of overheating and ruining the seal. Go slow and take frequent breaks to allow the shaft to cool. Always put a chamfer on the end you cut off so as to protect the seal upon engine assembly.

AV8TOR