Ryobi differences... Comments??
#51
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
No problem on the timing thing, our web site MAY have some slight errors.
$119.95 full kit, $80 ignition and sensor, magnet $2,
Full timing kit $39.95, includes prop hub, magnet, sensor, sensor bracket, prop washer, prop nut.
Prop hub and magnet $25.00.
TKG
$119.95 full kit, $80 ignition and sensor, magnet $2,
Full timing kit $39.95, includes prop hub, magnet, sensor, sensor bracket, prop washer, prop nut.
Prop hub and magnet $25.00.
TKG
ORIGINAL: combatpilot
My appologies, I stand corrected on the timming of the ch igniton. I didnt get that out of the website. i am not trying to spread missinformation but just relaying what I have seen.
What is the cost of a CH ignition for a ryobi. Just the ignition and a sensor and a magnet? I dont need a prop hub and can modify mine. how much would a hub with a magnet in it already add to the cost?
My appologies, I stand corrected on the timming of the ch igniton. I didnt get that out of the website. i am not trying to spread missinformation but just relaying what I have seen.
What is the cost of a CH ignition for a ryobi. Just the ignition and a sensor and a magnet? I dont need a prop hub and can modify mine. how much would a hub with a magnet in it already add to the cost?
#52
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
That is actually an excellent price for the prop hub. There's no way I would make one for that. CombatPilot, even if we don't buy their boxes, that's a nice hub for $25, and the magnet's a bonus.
#53
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
yea i guess i really like the prop hub and spinner set up i got from paragon areo. I havent seen one like it yet and im not sure i could use it with this hub.
Is the prop hub and magnet for the long or short shaft engine?
I dont understand in the price that if you get the full timming set and it comes with the sensor then do you have to buy the ignition set for $80 also and get another sensor with that?is 39.95 just the difference between the full set and just the ignition set? I guess the confusion comes when you say full set and full timming set? sounds like two different units.
Is the prop hub and magnet for the long or short shaft engine?
I dont understand in the price that if you get the full timming set and it comes with the sensor then do you have to buy the ignition set for $80 also and get another sensor with that?is 39.95 just the difference between the full set and just the ignition set? I guess the confusion comes when you say full set and full timming set? sounds like two different units.
#54
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
The full set up is ignition and timing kit with all the parts indicated. The full timing kit is just the timing kit. TCH has 3 hubs for Ryobis.
A phone call would be faster to ensure you get exactly what you need the first time.
A phone call would be faster to ensure you get exactly what you need the first time.
#55
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
What radius did you set 1/2 the reciprocating weight when you did your crank balance measurements?
thanks!
thanks!
ORIGINAL: av8tor1977
Oh I'm not stuck. I have other Ryobi cranks and crankcases here to use. I am just curious if the smaller case and the crappy shrouded reed valve came on a certain model, older engines, or what.
I did check, and the larger counterweight crank won't fit in the smaller diameter case. If I ever want to use that small diameter case and reed valve for some reason, I will have to use the original crank. The problem with that is I will have to add weight to the counterweight on that crank, as it is way out of balance as it is, and the engine vibrated terribly.
If I ever really needed a crankcase and didn't want to use the unbalanced crank and shrouded reed valve, I could just chuck that small i.d. crankcase in the lathe and machine it out to the larger size. As you said, the o.d. is the same.
PE Reivers Yes, I have reviewed all your web info on Ryobis. Interesting info.
Thanks,
AV8TOR
Oh I'm not stuck. I have other Ryobi cranks and crankcases here to use. I am just curious if the smaller case and the crappy shrouded reed valve came on a certain model, older engines, or what.
I did check, and the larger counterweight crank won't fit in the smaller diameter case. If I ever want to use that small diameter case and reed valve for some reason, I will have to use the original crank. The problem with that is I will have to add weight to the counterweight on that crank, as it is way out of balance as it is, and the engine vibrated terribly.
If I ever really needed a crankcase and didn't want to use the unbalanced crank and shrouded reed valve, I could just chuck that small i.d. crankcase in the lathe and machine it out to the larger size. As you said, the o.d. is the same.
PE Reivers Yes, I have reviewed all your web info on Ryobis. Interesting info.
Thanks,
AV8TOR
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
I have a different type of Ryobi engine that I converted quite easily. This one has a side mount walbro carb. Yes, side mount, not rear. It is on the crankcase left side if you are facing the rear of the engine. Has anyone found one of these and if so, what size is the engine? Seems to be about 30 CC. When I first converted it, it flew a 4-120 bipe modified into an Ultimate 4-120. Since the engine has about 100 hours running time on it, the compression is low, due to a worn ring/cylinder. Maybe just the ring, didn't disasemble it yet to see.
It has one of my own ignitions on it from the New CDI forum, using a grey Zenoah coil. Is it possible to get a new ring for this engine without sending Farnk Bowman the cylinder & piston? I would like to fit it with a double ring piston but haven't found any from previous Ryobi's that will fit it. Any suggestions? I'll post a picture of it if needed..also looking for another cylinder for it. Other Ryobi's have a different cylinder from mine since mine is also side exhaust. I have never seen any like it since. It came from a small blower about 10 years ago. Any help would be appreciated..
Thanks...
John
It has one of my own ignitions on it from the New CDI forum, using a grey Zenoah coil. Is it possible to get a new ring for this engine without sending Farnk Bowman the cylinder & piston? I would like to fit it with a double ring piston but haven't found any from previous Ryobi's that will fit it. Any suggestions? I'll post a picture of it if needed..also looking for another cylinder for it. Other Ryobi's have a different cylinder from mine since mine is also side exhaust. I have never seen any like it since. It came from a small blower about 10 years ago. Any help would be appreciated..
Thanks...
John
#63
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RE: Ryobi differences... Comments??
I don't know if this is helpful to anyone but, I have a 33cc ryobi conversion running a roy scholl ignition and a wacker engines muffler and a bigger carb. It is on a thunder tiger Giles 202 1.40 size plane.
I had been ruuning a zinger 18x6 prop on it and it would spin it to 7500 Rpm. it has a two ring piston in it which wasa big improvement over the stock single ring, but I don't have any performance records from before I switched it over. It had up till this week a cyinder with the decompression slots. I also bought a Xoar 18x8 prop which I could turn to 6800 Rpm. Taht wasn't too great, it took too long to get the plane off the ground.
So before winter I bought a cylinder without the decompression slots. I bolted it up this weekend and did some tests. the numbers above were done the same day just minutes before I switched the cylinder. with the new cylinder it will swing the zinger 18x6 at 7600 Rpm and the xoar 18x8 prop at 7260 Rpm. I think that should be a lot better. I think the zinger prop is pushing the limits of how high this motor will spin with this carb and exhaust and ignition.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84...#ixzz0qsaQoaGd
I had been ruuning a zinger 18x6 prop on it and it would spin it to 7500 Rpm. it has a two ring piston in it which wasa big improvement over the stock single ring, but I don't have any performance records from before I switched it over. It had up till this week a cyinder with the decompression slots. I also bought a Xoar 18x8 prop which I could turn to 6800 Rpm. Taht wasn't too great, it took too long to get the plane off the ground.
So before winter I bought a cylinder without the decompression slots. I bolted it up this weekend and did some tests. the numbers above were done the same day just minutes before I switched the cylinder. with the new cylinder it will swing the zinger 18x6 at 7600 Rpm and the xoar 18x8 prop at 7260 Rpm. I think that should be a lot better. I think the zinger prop is pushing the limits of how high this motor will spin with this carb and exhaust and ignition.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84...#ixzz0qsaQoaGd
#66
Hi av8tor,
Was just wondering what method you use to check the balance of the crank/rod/piston assembly? Is there a simple way to static balance it to see where it's at or do you have some kind of hi-tech balancing machine like the engine shops use or what? One of my Ryobis has some unexplainable vibration and I'm starting to think that maybe it's an internal thing but I don't really know how to check it. Sorry if I missed something you may have already said but I don't see anything anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you,
Pete
Was just wondering what method you use to check the balance of the crank/rod/piston assembly? Is there a simple way to static balance it to see where it's at or do you have some kind of hi-tech balancing machine like the engine shops use or what? One of my Ryobis has some unexplainable vibration and I'm starting to think that maybe it's an internal thing but I don't really know how to check it. Sorry if I missed something you may have already said but I don't see anything anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you,
Pete
#67
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Hey, are you an "Ultralight Airplane" guy? Me too. Probably have around 500 hours in ultralights and used to be an ultralight instructor. (I've got around 1000 hours in various single engine general aviation planes too.)
PM me your e-mail and I'll send you some pics of the balance process I use. Can't find the text part, I'll have to type that up for you. It is fairly easy to do, and works really well. Any engine I have balanced this way has had less vibration in most cases than stock/original.
AV8TOR
PM me your e-mail and I'll send you some pics of the balance process I use. Can't find the text part, I'll have to type that up for you. It is fairly easy to do, and works really well. Any engine I have balanced this way has had less vibration in most cases than stock/original.
AV8TOR
Last edited by av8tor1977; 02-15-2015 at 11:47 AM.