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  1. #426
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    In my experience, those "aluminum welding/brazing" rods rarely work well for anything we might use them for on our engines.  One guy reported he could get fairly passable welds if everything was done absolutely perfectly, but that it was brittle and would crack with very little vibration.  It would be even tougher to try to fill holes with it.  It is sometimes difficult to fill holes even in steel with conventional gas welding or brazing.  It is hard to get the bottom of the hole hot enough, and when you try to feed rod to the bottom of the hole it melts to the sides, filling the hole before you can weld into the very bottom of the hole.



    Better to see if you can go the next size up with new holes and threads on that cylinder.



    AV8TOR

    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  2. #427
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    the problem with doing that, is there wont be much material left.  I have already drilled to 1/4" and i wasnt comfortable doing that.  I wonder if muffler cement and studs or JB weld will do.  I would like to get a new jug, but dont want to cut it up like I have on this one if the mods dont give any real improvements.
    I hope they serve beer in hell!

  3. #428
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    Twin Star



    I am just using the stock Ryobi muffler. It sounds much louder in the video than it does in the air. I had the opportunity to take it out to fly today and it ran silky smooth and didn't so much as hiccup. Not an over abundance in power, but it flew the Rascal very nice. I amvery happy with it and for the type of plane the engine is mounted to it will do just fine. I also maidened another Rascal 110 for a buddy today, and his has a SV 26 gasser on it. I would say his SV 26 was probably producing just a wee bit more power than my Ryobi 31, but the Ryobi was running 10X smoother than that SV 26. In fact the Ryobi ran perfect no matter where I set the throttle. It ran just as well at 1/4 1/2 throttle as it did at full.



    flyguyeddy



    I am a member and past Presidentof the Spoon River Flyers club located in Maquon, Illinois. If you are in the area we always welcome guest to drop in and fly with us so long as you carry AMA. We have a friendly bunch of guys out every weekend who always enjoy a new face to talk to and we welcome all types of model aircraft. We don't care ifit runs off rubber bands or ajet engine. If it flys....we enjoy it.


  4. #429
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Here is a photo I forgot to include in my last post right before the Ryobi maiden flight.
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  5. #430
    Twin Star's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Considering thats a stock wacker muffler thats very respectable engine perf. A better muff. and carb and you will have a force to be reckoned with.
    No engine parts were deliberately harmed in this process.

  6. #431
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    Twin Star



    I have another Ryobi I am currently converting that has the larger bore Warlbro carb. I considered taking the smaller bore Zama carb off the Ryobi in the Rascal and switching it out with the larger bore Warlbro, but as you pointed out....I think the power and RPM's are pretty descent the way it is and perhaps someday I may opt for a better muffler and try another carb, but man it was sure running sweet in the air in its stock form. 


  7. #432
    combatpilot's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    The name of the rod is alumiweld. http://www.alumiweld.com/

    I found it of all places at Harbor frieght stores.

    I have tried this rod and was quite reluctant to as i have a $3000 tig welder. how could this stuff even work was my thought. I was quite suprised as i think it has potential in certian applications.
    .
    The main reason i wanted to try this is that i have a muffler that was given to me. It looks to be welded together with this same type of process. This may not be the same welding product the muffler company is using but it is very similar as it looks like it was soldered and not tig welded. by the way this muffler cost over $100 and uses this type of welding process.

    Here is a test piece i made out of a 3/4" thick section of square tube. i used sheet aluminum cut to size to weld to the ends. the far side is tig welded and the near side is alumiweld.

    Clean metal is important in this process and it does take some practice to get it right. this process has great potential in the muffler application.



    another alumiweld joint. I dont think i had enough build up in the joint for it to look good but even like this it is hell for strong.



    Here is my ryiobi engine on its maiden take off rollout


  8. #433
    Twin Star's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Well How good did it fly, don't just leave us hangin.
    No engine parts were deliberately harmed in this process.

  9. #434
    combatpilot's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    It flew great. It jumped right off the ground and the ryobi was plenty of power to pull around this 15 lbs 11 oz plane. it looped and rolled with no problem. the vertical was somewhat short but still usable for most arobatic manuvers. All in all it was real solid. the ryobi didnt miss a lick and waqs flown several times that day. I think its fair to say im hooked on large gas engines now lol.

  10. #435
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    combat



    I may have to try some of that alumiweld when I visit Harbor Freight next just for something else to mess with. Thanks for the info.



     I also wanted to mention that yesterday when I was flying the Rascal with the Ryobi....I had a fellow flyer use his point-n-shoot temp gauge to see what kind of head temperature I was at after flying the Plane and what it was reading sitting on the field running after I came into land. He told me he was getting a head reading of around 180 degrees running. So I figure up in the air cruising that my head temp is probably running somewhere in the 140-150 neighborhood. I am thrilled with that and would be curious to know what other folks are getting and what type of oil they are using and at what ratio? I am using Klotz 80% synthetic/ 20% Castor mixed with gasoline 40:1. Of course head temps climb quite a bit right after you shut an engine off...so I would be more interested in what temps folks are getting after flying and with engine running? I really did not know what kind of temps to expect on mine since the Ryobi fits entirely inside the cowl and the only cutout on the cowl is a few air holes drilled behind the spinner and a cutout for the head at the bottom. It appears that it is staying nice and cool, and I am not sure how much credit the Klotz gets or if it is just the nature of these engines to run fairly cool. I was always happy if my Zenoah G38 was running under 220 using Lawnboy Ashless oil mixed 32:1.....so the 180 temp looked nice on the Ryobi running Klotz at 40:1. Of course the G38 was spinning up a fw more RPM's and more then likely has more internal friction due to tighter tollerances, but still I was thrillled.


  11. #436
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    Those aluminum welds sure look nice.  I'm impressed.  Congrats on the plane too.



    AV8TOR



    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  12. #437
    combatpilot's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)





    Those aluminum welds sure look nice.  I'm impressed.  Congrats on the plane too.



    AV8TOR




    Thanks.   Im not saying its perfect in every application but i do think it does have its uses.  If you get some it does take some practice to get used to it.  try it on some scrap pieces first.  and remeber must be clean.


  13. #438

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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

     Hello, Ive got a ryobi 31cc weedeater that Im tryin to keep runnin, its acting like the the rubber pump is dried up and not pullin fuel. Was hoping you fellows could point me in the right direction, or if someone has a stock one left over Id be more then glad to purchase one

  14. #439

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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    if it's a walbro carb, go to a local mower or saw shop and ask for a D20WAT, depending on their markup it can range anywhere from $5 to $15, this is the seal kit for the carb, has diaphrams and gaskets for several different versions of the walbro WA and WT carbs, the kit with the meetering lever and needle is K20WAT, generally costs a couple dollars more than the D kit, but also has the diaphrams and gaskets. I ordered like 5 of both online a while ago to have on hand I think I got them for $3 and $5, I can look where I got them from if you want to know, I just did a google search for the part number and found a good place.



    I don't know the part number for Zama carbs, I really need to get a few rebuild kits for those on hand...


  15. #440
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)


  16. #441
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    What are the symptoms of your problem.

    Does it run but act like its starving for fuel?
    Will it start at all?
    If it runs can you see air bubbles in the fuel line or is it all fuel?
    Are you certian there is no abnormal restriction to fuel flow from the tank?
    Are you sure you have the pump diaphram and the gasket in the right location?
    Is the needle valve lever set correctly? (should be about parrallel with carb body)
    Is the needle valve diapram and gasket in the right spot.
    Did you disassembe and clean the carb? ( may have a piece of junk in it)

  17. #442
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Hello, Ive got a ryobi 31cc weedeater that Im tryin to keep runnin, its acting like the the rubber pump is dried up and not pullin fuel. Was hoping you fellows could point me in the right direction

    I can offer you something to try. First make sure the main fuel inlet line comming from the tankis hooked to the inlet that isopposite side of the adjustment screws. Then attatch a 2" line to thebrassfuel tubethat exits near the adjustmentneedles. Using a syringe you will hook that to the 2" piece of fuel tubing that exits near the adjustment screws. Pull the syringe out which willdraw fuel from the tank and thru the carb and up into the syringe. Nowusing the syringe you will push just a bit of thefuel back into thecarb,but leavingthe syringe about half full. Nowyou should be able to start the engine and keep feeding the engine with the syringe to keep it running. The idea is to get the gas and oil to soften up the diapram and seals until it starts pumping fuel on its own inthe event that your carb was just really dry from sittng for an extended period of time.This is also the same method I use to prime my engine since thecarb is in aspot that is tough to getto. The primer line works great. I also had to use this method to help keep my engine runningwhen I started my Ryobi the first time as an airplane engine and had to do major adjustments. Just something you may want to try to see if your carb will start to pull its own fuel after you assist it a couple times with the syringe.

  18. #443
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    I forgot to mention, but I am assuming you have the plastic needle limiters off, because you will need to be able to open the needles quite a bit more than the limiters allow. The Ryobi requires alot more fuel draw as an airplane engine then it did as a weedeater, but perhaps you allready knew this. Just wanted to make sure. 


  19. #444
    combatpilot's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    I can offer you something to try. First make sure the main fuel inlet line comming from the tankis hooked to the inlet that isopposite side of the adjustment screws. Then attatch a 2" line to thebrassfuel tubethat exits near the adjustmentneedles. Using a syringe you will hook that to the 2" piece of fuel tubing that exits near the adjustment screws. Pull the syringe out which willdraw fuel from the tank and thru the carb and up into the syringe. Nowusing the syringe you will push just a bit of thefuel back into thecarb,but leavingthe syringe about half full. Nowyou should be able to start the engine and keep feeding the engine with the syringe to keep it running. The idea is to get the gas and oil to soften up the diapram and seals until it starts pumping fuel on its own inthe event that your carb was just really dry from sittng for an extended period of time.This is also the same method I use to prime my engine since thecarb is in aspot that is tough to getto. The primer line works great. I also had to use this method to help keep my engine runningwhen I started my Ryobi the first time as an airplane engine and had to do major adjustments. Just something you may want to try to see if your carb will start to pull its own fuel after you assist it a couple times with the syringe.
    Man thats such a good idea. I guess ya learn something new every day lol. talk about such a simple way to prime it all up.

    You also mentioned something that is very important that i have seen done many time where guys will put the fuel line on the primer port. Inlet port is always opposite the adjustment screws and the primer port is always near the screws.

  20. #445
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    Combat



    I wish I could take credit for the idea, but when I was trying to figure out a good way to choke the engine a friend of mind said "Why don't you just use the primer line and prime it with a syringe?" I must say that that was almost to easy and it works like a charm. I just run a short primer line out the top of my cowl with a plug in it. I just pull the plug when I am ready to start it and suck fuel up into the carb with the syringe, open the throttle and push it back down into the carb. I then remove the syringe and replug the line. Works perfect!


  21. #446
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Here is a photo of what I use to prime mine. It really was just way to simple to work good, but it does. Next time you are at the Doctor ask them to give you a few syringes for your airplane. I am sure you will get a funny look!
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  22. #447
    combatpilot's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    thats gona solve alot of my probs as its so freaking hard to get to the choke. with this you could just take the choke out and not even use it. No matter whos idea it was thanks so much for sharing. I have a friend i fly with that is a nurse and he has goten me syringes before. i got them from him with the needle so i could inject epoxy and repair a joint through the covering without having to remove covering and it worked great. also worked well on foam core wing repair where you could inject epoxy into the crack through the covering.

  23. #448
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



    Combat



    Yea...you don't need a seperate choke. In fact you don't even need to touch the carb. Just pull some fuel up with the syringe thru the primer line...open the carb and inject it right back thru the carb. Close the throttle back to idle and it starts every bit as well as if you had used a hand choke. Just make sure you recap your primer line when you are done priming it. On a few occasions I have had to prime it twice, but normally one time does the trick.


  24. #449

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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)



     Thanks for all the great advice so far. Had it runnin good the first couple of cuts then it just started gettin worse,had to adjust the low end on the carb each time. This last time I Couldnt get it to run worth a hoot. The reason I think its the pump is that if I push in on the primer bulb slowly it seems to run much better. Havent stripped the carb apart yet to look inside, will have time tomorrow to tinker with it I plan to pick up a new plug while in town tomorrow the one thats in it now looks clean to me but you never know. What would air in the lines indicate, havent looked for that yet. Almost thinking of going to the big bore carb just for grins, would it work while still on the weedwacker? Thanks for all the help so far, this forum is one awesome tool.


  25. #450
    ckangaroo70's Avatar
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    RE: another darn ryobi post (ryobi performance modification, analysis and comparison)

    Well having to pump the prime bulb to keep it running it is a sure sign it is starving for fuel, and it could indeed be in need of a rebuild kit. If you can't get the low end needle rich enough to stay running then that does make a person think your pump may be very weak or not pumping at all. Air in the line would certainly mean you are not getting fuel to drawl properly as well. However its not quite the same as a  nitro engine that develops problems from an air leak in the tank or line somewhere, because your tank is vented and not pressurized from muffler pressure like a glow engine ,but instead is designed to pull its fuel from the tank which is where the prime method I mentioned before comes into play. Anyhow..I wish I could be of more help, but perhaps you are on the right trail and may want to take a peek inside the carb. Although I don't think it is absolutely nessasary, but since you mentioned getting a new spark plug anyhow....might I suggest that since you allready plan to buy a new one that you may opt to get a resistor plug if your auto store has any in stock. They are a bit more money however and I don't use a resistor plug since my radio gear is far away from the engine, but a resistor plug can save you from possible interferance created by the mag and when I decide to buy a new plug at some point I will probably get a NGK or Champion resistor plug. 


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