Scota4570

I got a FS 62 (19.6cc) and a FS 65AV (??cc). They are rough but the interior if the engines are good. They look like they may finish up real light. They should because the displacement is small. I see the 62 as a left hand thread on the crank, I think I have a work around though.

Any input on if they would make a worthwhile conversion?

Jester241

I had a stihl 21 or 22cc that I converted. I never put it in anything though. It was heavy for its size,but made a nice conversion. It ran Super good and was one of the best engines I ever had to tune.

Actually....heres the thread I started awhile back about it....

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_82...tm.htm#8216368

Its probably only going to be a good engine for something with very light wing loading like a cub or something like that. My engine was an FS-81 too.

Scota4570

The wacker was in really bad shape so I went ahead and attacked it. The shortblock came out 1# 8oz.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I converted one for my brother and it runs well. Much better porting than most of the other 20cc (ish) engines. He is putting it on a Big Stik and I think it will fly quite well.

Sorry, I didn't get any prop/rpm numbers on it, but suffice to say I liked the engine enough that I tried to talk my brother out of it.

Perfect candidate for Gas/Glow...

P.S. I just weighed my Super Tiger .90 converted to gas and ignition to answer someone in another thread. It weighs 1 lb. 12 oz. without the ignition system.

AV8TOR

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Oh, and be careful. The little 19cc Stihl I did for my brother had left hand threads on the crank...

AV8TOR

Scota4570

I notticed the LH thread, PTO side too. I had three ideas. First, cut it off and rethread: the shaft is pretty long. Second, make a left and thread tap: that is a pain. Finally, an ungainly hub that used the LH nut and a second piece that bolts over the whole works with several cap screws. I will be ditching the Flywheel.

Hey, that jug has so many fins that it looks like an angry porkypine. Anything wrong with removing the fins below the intake and exhaust holes? Make it more like a DLE-30. How about removing all or most of the belts of aluminum around the case? I think I could pare it down a bit more.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

the way I've got around the LH threads on the crank was like Av8tor will mention... cut off the threads then drill and tap the crank and install a stud with the threads of your choice. did that on an old pioneer chainsaw I have that had LH threads on both ends of the crankshaft, I still need to finish that thing and get it running.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Well, here is how we did it on my brother's....

I just took a thick, large diameter flat washer, and chamfered it to match the chamfered part of the pto shaft. Then we just bolted the propellor right to the shaft without an adapter hub, and then used Loctite and two nuts "jammed" together to hold the prop on. Works fine and is very light. The prop ends up a bit close to the engine, but it is no problem.

The shaft on this engine is a bit too small to do the "bore, tap, and stud" method we used on the Echos...

AV8TOR

Scota4570

It got done. Came out 2#4-oz. I need to wait for the various sealers and adhesives to dry before I run it. The other engine is a BME-50 knock off I did for size comparison.

If if runs good I will make a new intake manifold. That one is too long. It is also made of bakalite. Do not cut bakalite on you bandsaw, it will ruin the blade. What makes it worse is the blade is a weird length so I have to shorten a longer blade. Bakalite cuts like a piece of rock and smells funny. You'll know after you do it once.

I did remove the belts of aluminum on the case. I don't know if it really saved any weight but it does look nicer.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Nice job. It's a cute little guy, just like the one I did for my brother. Please post prop/rpm numbers when you run it. I'm curious....

Congrats!
AV8TOR

Scota4570

The following props are The black APC type:

16x8 7500
15x8 8200
15x6 8900
16x4 9800

Grey APC

14x8 9525


Carb is a wt942. That is too big but the engine doesn't seem to mind. It idles down to about 2000.

Cute and spunkie.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Hey, that will work... Congrats. It looks really nice and should fly something nicely.

AV8TOR

Scota4570

I mentioned the FS65AV in the first post. I cleaned it up today. It is a simmilar size as the other but has and angled spark plug hole. The compression is better, it measures 140 psi and turns very freely. It was covered in black gunk. I tried boiling it in kerosine with only limited success. Lots of wire brush action and finally blasting it did well.

I will run it before I get too crazy with further metal removal. I was thinking of removing the geneorous bell housing. If I put the sensor on the prop hub and removed the reinforcing belts there would not be much left. I would give back a little weight with the standoffs though. The standoffs would mate with the case at the rear belt that you can see on the outside of the case. The PTO shaft would be eliminated. I am a little skeptical of standoffs not giving enough torsional rigidity.

Any comments on this idea?

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I think standoffs would work ok, but if you are in doubt, make a backplate and use four standoffs. If it's good enough for a DA 50, it's good enough for us!

AV8TOR

Scota4570

I was envisioning using the bolt holes that hold the case halves together. Instead of cap screw I would use all thread. The threaded stands offs would go over the all thread securing the case halfs and doing double duity as the mount studs.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Well, I suppose.... What I do is just use all thread to make studs that screw into the original mounting holes in the "bell housing".

AV8TOR