Owner1

So I've been working at making my BOL fly faster, and up to this point I've used the Extreme extended shaft, 3DPro blades, motor heat sinks, battery moved forward one full lengththe usual. I had an extra flybar around so I decided to shorten it by 1.5 inches and see how the BOL reacted. Wow. Big improvement. As you can see from the video it's still stable, but it reacts to inputs faster and can pitch forward more and definitely reach higher speeds.

Before the shortened flybar I never had a blade strike using the extended shaft and the 3DPro blades (and I flew it hard as you can see from my other fast flying video), but now with the greater forward speed I'm reaching, blade strikes are again a problem. I'm thinking that Walkera Lama 400D blades are the stiffest I can get. If anyone has knowledge of a stiffer blade than that please let me know. If the Lama 400D blades still arn't stiff enough, then I'll trying taping the outer third of the blades with packing tape. Again, if anyone has experience with this or better ideas please let me know. Also, let me know what you think of the video. I think I'm getting some good speed in it.

Owner1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VIH3mhEIa0

pgroom_68

Hey O,

Fernando & I experimented with the stiffness of blades for our BOLs back over a couple of years ago now[sm=72_72.gif] - and we came to the conclusion that the stiffest available are the Xtreme black blades ([link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80_204_212&products_id=4323]uppers[/link] are sold separately to [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80_204_212&products_id=4324]lowers[/link]). Second is the [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80_203_224&products_id=3106]Walkera 400D blades[/link] that you mentioned. We also found that clear parcel tape (or for stiffer opaque fiber-reinforced tape in pic 4) applied underside first, lengthwise, then folded over to cover the top surface - then folded down onto the leading edge (& trimmed off at the trailing edge) gives the best results

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The blades that coned the most in our experiments were, interestingly, the 3DPros with the Xtreme whites a close second. Both of these blade sets we kept for when we had a keycam attached.........now let me see if I can find some old pics
P.P.S. The last pic shows an adjustable flybar that I made - it worked similarly to your shortening......

Owner1

Peter, thanks so much for the information. It was really helpful and should really save me some time, especially when learning how to tape the blades most effectively. One question: since the Extreme White blades are known to be flimsy (as you also said), can you give me the part number for the Extreme Black blades so that I don't accidentally get the wrong blades? Obviously there is more difference between them than the color, but I can't find that difference noted in the spec sheets. So I'm afraid I'll get the White flimsy style blade, except in the color black.

Thanks again for the help.

Owner1

pgroom_68

Hey again O,

I wouldn't call the white Xtreme blades "flimsy" - in fact they are very durable - but they are much more flexible than other Xtreme blades which is suited to camera work rather than "tossing your bird around the sky"
I have direct links to the black blades from the manufacturer within my reply to your post above here on rcuniverse.com The product numbers of the black Xtreme blades is EBL005-K for the uppers, and EBL006-K for the lowers. If you can find them closer to your location it saves shipping

The order of taping blades is important 'cause you want to spread the strong forces of sudden movements within the air along the blade evenly so no one part is over-stressed and breaks...........

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The last pic shows my adjustable flybar with the Extreme whites - they were suited to my indoor flying style at that time.......[sm=50_50.gif]

Owner1

Thanks again for the help. I'm going to order the Extreme Blacks and give them a try. In the mean time, I've already acquired a set of the Lama 400d blades which I cut down and put on yesterday. I was planning on going flying and making a new video yesterday also, but it turned out my last crash (in the video) bent both inner and outershafts, as well as the custom length flybar I made, so instead of flying I spent my time repairing. Only had time for a quick test flight in the backyard, but looks good so far. BTW, the 400D blades are clearly way more resistant to static bending than the 3dpros. I can't imagine getting blade strikes with them. We'll see.

In your testing of the stiffer blades with the extended shaft, were you still able to get blade strikes?

Owner1

pgroom_68

Hey again O,

Short answer yes - I always managed to get an occasional Blade Strike or at least Blade Slapping (maybe the bird didn't lose any altitude) unless I trimmed the blade length of the uppers by a few centimeters then re-adjusted the mixing to stop "spinning" from happening. That is where my experimentation ended 'cause I was getting sick of crashing in a slight breeze - so I "graduated" to a higher head speed 450 [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10900]T-Rex clone[/link] (see specs in my signature area at the bottom of my posts). Sorry I can't throw much more light on the subject mate. It is all over to you now[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. My next purchase would have been two sets of [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/MicroHeli_Precision_CNC_Stabilizer_Flybar_Weight_p/mh-cx072v2.htm]THESE[/link] flybar weights to replace the the black plastic ones.....[sm=72_72.gif]

Owner1

Peter, sinceI've already shortened the factoryrubber weighted balancebar to my desired length,is there any reason to change it out, other than for cosmetics and ease of adjustment? . Also if you could, which servo arm fits the BOL servos, so that I can increase the swash movement? I realize this would give me more blade strike potential, but I think that will only be a problem if I tried going full forward while at high speed. I'd like to try it in any case.

Like you said, sounds like I'm covering the same ground you did a few years back, but I'm happy to do it. I just want to have the fastest single swash BOL out there. Speaking of which, did you happen to make any videos of your BOL flying? I love to see vids of these things flying. That goes for anyone reading this threadgive me a link to your BOL videos!

Brandon

pgroom_68

sorry.

pgroom_68

Hey again Brandon,

An extended centre shaft in partnership with better throw from the servo arms, shortened flybar and stiffer blades will get you into FFF. The trick is to learn the skills needed at a slower FF flight - flaring out and rudder & aileron inputs at precisely the correct time. This takes what we in the [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10052781/anchors_10502381/mpage_154/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10502381]T-Rex clone forums[/link] call "schik time"[sm=wink_smile.gif]

I can't see any reasons to change out a perfectly working shortened flybar mate![sm=72_72.gif] My suggestion would also be useful for ease of reversing the mod[sm=49_49.gif]
The Esky servos use a [link=http://www.rc711.com/shop/esky-7g-servo-horns-and-screw-set-p-1903.html]7g Esky servo arm[/link] as all of the Esky birds now use the same servo I think[sm=50_50.gif] - if you can find them in stock[:@]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. As for video - if I was outdoors I would be flying at a smiliar rate to [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLjaBEFuZnE]you[/link] - the only vidoes that I have are from early days of modding & indoors - a new red model so nothing special. This was the first time using glasses-cam also - so I was not in frame all the time, but since you ''love'' to see them
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VqwjPVn0y0[/youtube][youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlO38d01SrE&feature=related[/youtube]
[/quote]

Owner1

Finally got some time to fly and experiment a little with stiffer blades. The results were "interesting". First, I flew a couple of battery packs with the 400d blades cut down to fit, and I must say I like the blades a lot. It wasn't until my third battery with them that I discovered a new flight characteristic of the helicopter with the stiffer blades...followed immediately by me panicking and making a pilot error that caused a spectacular crash. I was quite pissed at myself at the time, but now that the damage has been repaired and I've watched the crash video repeatedly, I see that the flight accomplished my goal for the day, despite myself. In short, with the extended shaft, shortened flybar, and 400d blades, a blade strike will occur on my Big Lama only if you get the helicopter inverted. Which, of course, I did.

I'm making a new thread detailing my experience in reducing blade strikes so I'm going to post the video there as well. Thanks for your help Peter. I've got new servo arms that I will be trying now that blade strikes are no longer an issue (barring inverted flight).

http://youtu.be/gsvGb8eWbHI?hd=1

Owner1

pgroom_68

Hey again Brandon,

Let me first congratulate you for joining the BOL crash club - it is a honour to have you aboard mate! You are quite welcome for the help - although there are limits to the amount that I can help - mainly 'cause I've moved onto CP birds now making my memories of the BOL so much more "legendary" than it actually was........ I found that the 450 size was a bit to much of a handful for me - so I've just bought a Blade mCPX to practice on indoors - and it is wonderful. In fact I was thinking of inverting it and parking it on the ceiling next heli-meet (I've already done this successfully many times in Clearview sim!)

Much luck mate

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Better leave the inverted flight for the collective pitch birds.........