roeyman

HEY ALL--JUST GET MY HONNEY BEE 2 -ESKY 3D--AND GET SOME PROBLEMS:

1.I ORDER FROM HOBBEYJAPAN2000 AND GET ALL OF WHAT THEY SAID--BUT IN THE INSTRUCTUON MANUAL THEY WRITH I NEED TO GET ATEACHING DVD...AND THAT I DIDNT GET..ANYBODY GET IT?

2. THE TRANSMITTER CABLE TO CONNECT TO THE CPU- I CONNECT HIM --BUT THE CPU (XP) EVEN DONT RECOGNIZE IT (AFTER I DO ADD NEW ARDWARE) - AND I DIDNT GET ANY SIMULTOR FOR IT- TRY THE FMS BUT IT DOESNT FIND ANY JOYSTICK ENABLED...

3. I TRIED TO FIRST POWER ON THE HELI... I SAW THAT THE MAIN BLADE IS ROTATE IN REVERSE!!! I TURN THE POLARITY OF HIS MOTOR TO THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION AND IT BENN FINE..
AFTER THAT I SAW THAT THE TAIL IS SPINING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION . BUT WHAN I TUROTTLE UP... THE HELI WAS SPINING ON THE GROUND--I CHANGE PROPORTION EVEN TO THE MAX + BUT IT STILL NOT STAY STABLE ON THE GROUND AND THE HELI KEEPS SPINING ON THE GROUND....WHAT SHALL I DO...CHANGE THE POLARITY OF THE TAIL BLADE ??DOES THE COMPANY CAN SEND ME SUCH ATHING???

4. AND THE MOST IMPORTENT -- WITH EVEN FULL TUROTTLE...THE HELIS NOT TAKING OFF...
I READ THAT SOMEONE HERE WAS CHANGING THE PITCH --AND IT WAS OK...HOW CAN I DO IT..

PLS HELP MY GUYS..

xview

Hi,

I can't answer all of your questions, but here's the solution to make your simulation software work with your transmitter.
Got to this site and read everything carefully, it explains what you need to do to make your setup work
http://www.rc-sim.de/art_engine_en/a...hp?article=118

Also, i think you need the "PPJOY-driver"
If you can't find it, do a quick search on Google.

I think you would be better of with a E-sky V1 (indoor heli instead of the most difficult one the 3D version).

Hope this helped ya in the right direction

bswole

My learning software wouldn't recognize my transmitter either. I then realized that it wouldn't recognize the transmitter until I turned it off. With the transmitter on, it just wouldn't work (which is good; it uses no batteries).

Sabot

firstly: change the case of your post to lower case please

make sure you REVERSE the channels to get it to respond correctly.

if the motor is spinning in the wrong direction solder the wires on the other polarity.

the question of 'OMG my heli wont take off' has been asked many times just have a look in the archives.
if a heli wont take off its rarely a fault with the electronics. the most common reasons are:

-Something is binding
-Poor electrical contact
-battery not fully charged
-ATVs set on the transmitter

good luck

Sabot

roeyman

ATV-- whats that??

and about the take off problam....someone here said he change the pitch on the heli--and that take him off..
how can i do ...

one more thing--the heli came to me with his main blades -aside and movable...should i put the screw strong--that theyll cant move?
or thats fine like that?

roeyman

ANS ON MORE THING--WHATS THE LIGHTS IN THE CHARGER TELLS?? GREEN AND RED? -- WHAN ITS GREEN ITS FINISH?
DONT I SHOULD GET THE BETTRY OFF WHAN ITS WORM?? (1800 LI-0N BATTRY)

tnd2000

1. I didn't get a CD neither. You need to download FMS yourself.
2. You need PPJoy. Set it with serial connection. FMS does work but you really need a non-CCPM radio. You'll get more frustration in the simulator then real flying with eksy2 radio.
3. It sounds like you have the motor reversed. Put it back in the original position. The no-throttle pitch of the honeybee 2 is 0 or slightly negative. Proporation and gain adjustment does work but I found that I must adjust them with the power off instead of on.
4. Same as 3.

Alternatively you could disconnect the main motor then work the throttle of your tx. You should observe the pitch changes. Flip the 3D switch and you should observe the pitch does change from some negative value to positive. If you don't observe pitch change, check your upper swash is connected with the lower swash. If not, hold both blades and turn them both in the positive pitch direction until the plates engages.

roeyman

thanx tnd2000..now i am pretty sure that the motor connection is reversed!! there s a red stick on the motor conection..and on it there is the black wire!! pls people who get that heli..tell me if i am wrong... think i am going to solder ot to the right way...
i tried about it to just reverse the plug of this motor in the reciver-but it still goes the wrong way...
i also tried to just reverse all the main blades (including those above tham) and than it in full throttle like wanted to fly just not stright up but forward..

so just tell me before i am going to solder it the right way..is it ok? no damage for the motor can be done? what about that res stick..
can they send me anew helli like that!?!?!

+about that plates should i use glue?

roeyman

sorry..just tried now to reverse the plug of the main motorin the reciver and it isturn the right way..but can i leave it like that or should i solder the wires on the motor...

roeyman

sorry..just tried now to reverse the plug of the main motorin the reciver and it isturn the right way..but can i leave it like that or should i solder the wires on the motor... and it still doesnt fly abit at full turtole...dont know what to do..hopeless..
on how much turtole it is need to fly..

Billyray

Are you using the Wood blades with the clear covering? If so When I switched to the Semi Semetrical white blades I got enough lift to hover with mine. Im ahving the same problem. Im looking at getting a new set of blades from [link]http://www.deeteeenterprises.com/NS.ms_hornet.main.blades.CP.php[/link] I hope the weighted blades for the Hornet (ESky clone) will work. Ill check back later since I havent even ordered them yet.

Also Ive see that while in non 3D mode there is very little travel in the collective for some reason. There is no way of setting any type of throttle curve and it seems locked into being a full throttle with not enough pitch to break ground. You can adjust the pitch by making the rods on the head that connect the flybar long or short there is one for each blade, but this might make inverted flight impossible although most of us want to be able to fly first. Ive only started to work on mine and ill post my results later.

Billyray

Oh I forgot. The ESkys TX is a POS Im looking at getting the Hitec 6 ch [link]http://www.hobby-lobby.com/hitec.htm[/link] HTR8725 Hitec Optic 6 Ch. Transmitter Only with Spectra ..... $ 179.90, with the Specra Module you can use any Frquecy. It has +/_ and it should work with the 6 ch 4 in 1.

roeyman

"You can adjust the pitch by making the rods on the head that connect the flybar long or short there is one for each blade"
did it-put them longer..mot helping still

my swashplat can be moved from each oder with alittle bit power on it - but still i dont think thats the reason--after about 3 times they still stay in right place

busta1

when u first connect battery power to the esky make sure that you do not move the helicopter. The gyro will take a few seconds to callibrate, do not touch tx during this, during callibration the LED will flash green then stay a constant green. Disconnect the motor from the main gear and see if the LED lights red on full power, if so then the motor is not receiving enough power from battery (not fully charged). In my experiance the blade clamps should be holding the blades at angles to each other, these can be adjusted via the screw linkage. (look at packaging to see what i mean). I broke a clamp and when i glued it back on straight in line with the other cld get no lift. I fly esky FP but think CP is same in this respect.

roeyman

"when u first connect battery power to the esky make sure that you do not move the helicopter. The gyro will take a few seconds to callibrate, do not touch tx during this, during callibration the LED will flash green then stay a constant green. Disconnect the motor from the main gear and see if the LED lights red on full power, if so then the motor is not receiving enough power from battery (not fully charged). "

YES!! THATS HAPPEND! on 75% turtole up..the led`s get red! but i dont understand-its anew one i get from hobbeyjapan200
11v 1800 ma--and i charge for some hours (thers aled in the charger--red whan its charge-green whan its fully charge) its get green for lot of times..what should i do

tnd2000

I don't trust the +/- red/black indicators on the honeybee at all. But I see no reason to solder anything on the motors. Just switch it on the rx side. FYI, on my rx, the 2 blacks wires from the motors are near the center with red wires on top/bottom end. But like I said, this is for me only. It might be different for you. You should put it back the way it was when you first received it.
As far as pitch travel, it is very small in normal mode and it is totally ok and actually better for us newbies. I'd rather have the heli freefall when I have very low throttle stick with positive pitch instead of faster then free fall when it's at negative pitch.

You still having problem roeyman? Please take a look at part sk052, you'll see it has 4 pieces. It's very easy for these to become seperated (I can seperate them everytime when I test servo movement while the heli sit on the ground). You must make sure they are together or your heli won't lift off.
Try this test, in none 3d mode. Turn up the throttle about 3/4 full. Feel the wind, is it blowing up or down?

roeyman

tnd2000- i look at part sk052 - and i see only 3 pieces-i cant see the upper piece(the smallest one)but thats maybe he is so small and he is into tham allready..again they all ok -but if i pull tham alittle bit they are seperated ..should i use glue?..or thats ok like that - just push tham with my hands...

what to u say about the test that busta1 has gave me..and on 75% turtole up the led goes red (also in 3d mode) ...

about your test:as the factory gave it to me -the rotors spin the wrong way- it blowing down- whan i switch it on the rx side- its spin finethe right way-and its gives air up-but than my tail motr spin the way that the main blades are--and i dont get any resistent-so i need to change theyre rx side too!!! --can it be??

roeyman

sorry think that iam maybe wrong--it should push air to the ground ..right?

Sabot

NO the blades whould be free to move!!
they should be just tight enough to hold their position if you pick up the heli and lean it to the side. but you should be easyly able to move them with your hand. even on a full size heli the blades are supposed to be loose.

this stops the heli virbating itself it bits.

roeyman

ok i its movable..but still--now its rotate thr right way(push air to the ground) everyting seems to be fine...
its only the buttry i guss on 75 % turtole the led on the reciver goes red--also in 3d mode its go red immediatly..
but i charge her for lots of times(until charger is green-means -done) ..and its brand new from the box...

tnd2000

For sk052 you just need to make sure the 2 larger pieces are connected together. Do not apply glue.
The LED turns red when I'm near full throttle and when in 3D mode. In 3D mode, the low end is the same as the high end of the throttle stick as they both output full throttle on the motor. Only low end is negative pitch etc.
For now let's ignore 3D mode and the tail motor. If you are feeling the wind blowing down to the groud then it is setup correctly. Let's assume your battery is in working order. Now you said you adjusted the pitch before. How did you do it? You need to lengthen it in order to increase pitch I think Once you are able to lift off, then you can adjust the proportional setting. What I do is turn it to 1 extreme, turn on the heli and see which way it spins, and then slowly reduce it until the heli stops spinning or spins the other way. Now adjust the rudder trim to counter any remaining movement you have. When you do these adjustment, I found I had to disconnect the battery and then reconnect for the changes to take place. Also you need to center the rudder trim while you are adjusting 'proportional'.

Sabot

im still conviced that its a minor problem which is being overlooked.
The heli should start to lift of a 50% and usually hovers between 50% ~ 60% throttle.
if you unscrew the motor does everything move freely? are the gears meshing properly? by the siund of it you're getting binding somewhere because if the light is goin red on the helicopter it can be caused by the motor drawing too much current (due to being mechanicly resisted by something)

Try- unscrew the motor (if its not a too long job) secure it to a motor mount or something, turn it on and give it some power carefully and see if the red light still comes on. also while the motor is unscrewed turn the rotors with your hand and see if it moves freely and when you put the motor back in make sure the gears mesh properly, not too close together or it will grind and not too far apart or the gears will strip.

[edit] Make sure all the cyclic controls are working properly before you try to fly it. the swash plate should follow the right hand stick [if it is mode 2] .
Is your transmitter mode 1 or mode 2?
in mode 2 the left hand stick controls the throttle and rudder and the cyclic is controled by the right hand stick

tnd2000

If you are concerned about the red light and suspect it's because of insufficient power, you should try this.
Remember at which position the red light first turn on. Now disconnect the power to the motors on the rx and then try again. Does the light turn on at the same place or not at all? PS you might as well observe the pitch changes while ur at it. Make sure the paddles are level. You should be able to observe pitch changes. In 3D mode, pitch changes is 2x normal.

roeyman

try it allready...yes the red led turn on at the same place...

i think my tail motor is burned off- it isnt work at all-no matter what i do..is there away to make sure he is gone??
***** ****...and i even didnt have 1 normal flight--i am getting sick from it....get any good places for order new tail motors?
is there any name for tham or only i need to search some motors to work on 11 v?

keith124

My Feedback: (5)

If you have a gap on your swash plat press it down till it snaps back into place should be no gap....
its the plastic ring with 4 small round points.. press it down with a finger on each side...should work fine no matter what blade you have