RKS1949

The super Landing Gear,is the best Upgrade I've done to the heli so far! It adds a little weight,which I like,and is almost bullet proof.RR

bignose13

RKS What battery do you use and where did you get the main blades from are they better than the black ones that came wiyh the heli

Chillybee

My Feedback: (3)

I'm trying to get my Futaba 9C to work with my Honeybee FP. The cyclic pitch is ok, but not the throttle. I just can't seem to get the 4-in-1 controller to engage and start turning the motor. It seems like I'm the only person trying to use this radio with my Honeybee...that or noone else has had any problems doing it so they don't post it. Any help would be appreciated.

bignose13

Main Motor has just packed in anybody know if there is a better motor i can use instead of the one that came with the heli [:@]

serverslayer

Hi all, does anyone know how to replace the flybar without breaking it. I have a direct replacement from ESKY and have already broke one trying to get it throught the rotor head without damaging it. I dont want to make the same mistake twice. If anybody has some advice, it would be appreciated.

**serverslayer**

btw, i am a noob, but i plan on learning, thanks!

bignose13

serverslayer
go to your lhs and buy a length of cf bar it will cost the same as esky replacement but you will get about ten flybars out of it same goes for you tail boom dont buy the esky replacement

cbrblade

Hi all. I am a total noobe, just bought mine a week ago off ebay £51.00 inc postage, not bad I thought. Firstly I thought these were able to be flown out the box I have got off the ground a dozen or so times but it either goes sideways and crashes or backwards. I am trying to sort out the Cof G it doesn't ballence at all even with the battery all the way forward. have taped a pound coin to the front of the reciever and this has mad it near level. Q how important is the C of G. The instuctions that came with it are next to usless being in the usual pigion English.

On the last crash have broken the reciver mounting plate, tried glueing it back and thats no good. So now I am going to screw on a light metal L shape braket, which may also help to sort out this C of G problem as well.

Q. how long do you charge the standard battery for, is it a full 2hrs.

Ps. Sorry for the long first post..excellent site by the way..

Cbrblade.

cbrblade

Well the metal bracket worked, took off again several times but drifted sideways into a wall, now broke the flybar []

I take it these are not too hard to replace. have super glued it back on and will wait a while before trying again, probably wont be strong enough though....

cbrblade.

bignose13

cbrblade
have a look at the above post for parts and yes the c of g is really important if this is not correct you will not trim the heli very well and you will constantly be moving the sticks hunting for leavelness. MAKE SURE YOU SET THE GAIN AND TAIL PROPORTION ON THE 4 IN 1 CORRECTLY AS WELL. Also make sure the flybar paddles are leavel with the swash and each other once you have set theese the honey is a great bird to fly once you master the fundamentals like most things i suppose

cbrblade

Thanks bignose.

Have shortened the Flybar, when it broke off it was at the paddle end next to the weight, seems to fly OK still even with the slightly shorter Flybar.

On the C of G question. It takes 2 pound coins right on the front of the receiver to get it level as I lift it by the Flybar...
That is how you check isn't it by using the Flybar to pick it up. I am surprised it can be this much out of level if as you say its important, should have been balanced out of the box.?

I don't have that much room to fly it indoors and wondering if thats not helping as I am having to keep it low, so is the ground effect not helping either..

cbrblade.

yongary

Here's the picture of my honeybee fp. [link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=4/9521580342.jpg&s=x10]CLICK HERE TO SEE THE PIC[/link]
I used Mcdonald's straw to arrange the wire, and changed the canopy after crash. HB CP canopy is a little bit cheaper than FP one. =)

Here's the video of my first outdoor flying. I'm still practicing side-in hovering but today I took it outside and tried to do a little bit of forward and backward movements. It felt much better flying outdoors rather than flying in the small living room.
[link=http://media.putfile.com/Honeybee-FP]CLICK HERE TO SEE THE VID[/link]

bignose13

Hi Guys
Just fixed the motor I put a humingbird 370 in works a treat.
The problem i have now is that when i fly the bird for about 5 mins the nose keeps creeping to the left even when i give right rudder and i mean full right rudder the nose will not turn right it just stays left and then creeps left (strange) any ideas i have searched other threads but getting nowhere.might buy a trex.
[]

bignose13

Found the problem dodgy tail motor [:@]
has anybody tried these blades GWS Gray blades or these http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=194
if so how do they perform ???????????

cbrblade

Can anyone HELP please.
Managed to sort out the CG but each time I try to fly it the thing goes sideways to the left, then another time it will go backwards... very frustrating. Is it possible to set these up so you can just take off and hover without using the right stick at all........

cbrblade

Butuz

Basically. No, it is not possible. You'r expecting too much mate - you have to put some work in too, the heli cant do it all.

Butuz

the big fist

Hi all, major noob here.
Has anyone tried replacing the tail boom on the esky honeybee ?
Mine is cracked and i have a replacement but it is very hard to get out as it looks like it is glued in and i dont want to break the tail rotor housing trying to remove it. Any ideas on how to remove it easily ?
Thanks a lot !!

p.s
sorry to dig up an old thread !

jayo0906

yeah, how can i possibly remove the tail rotor housing from a tail boom? it seems like it's glued to the tail boom. BTW, helidirect super landing skid is the best upgrade i've done to my hb fp. i wont have to buy the stock skids anymore!

drahcir11

Hi There,

I had a carbon boom on my twister (UK version of honey bee) splinter along the length. It was awkward to replace. I disconnected the tail motor (desoldered) and fed the cable back through the boom. Then i cut the boom with a hacksaw level with the end of the tail housing/fus and then used a small dremel tool to get the remaining fibre out. Its glued in and got a lil messy. If you havn't got a rotary tool i guess a sharp craft knife would work.

All the best
drahcir

pazminoj

Can any body help. I bought a Honeybee cp2 3 weeks ago and still can't get it off the ground. I'ts hopping to the left alot after 60% throttle and I've done all the adjustments and trimmings I could.

bignose13

Make sure you've got your pitch set correctly on your blades, do you have a pitch gauge, if so disconnect the motor and what is the gauge showing at midsticks on the throttle, should be 0 degrees at midsticks and if you're comple noob and bottom sticks it should be around -2 or 3 degrees and at full pitch about 11 degrees.

denis1

Hi,

I've recently got my Esky HoneyBee FP heli... At my first flight outdoors (I'm a newbie) it crashed so that those two small paddles (014) on the main rotor got slightly angled. Obviously they were both together rotated from the crash. Nothing was damaged, the axe holding those two paddles was just slightly rotated.
So, I needed to twist that small axe back so that the paddles have their original fixed pitch.
But, what's the initial and best calibrating original pitch for those paddles?

Please if anyone who knows Esky HoneyBee FP heli well, could tell me what's the original and best angle for those paddles (they are both connected to the main axe) on the main rotor.
I mean, to get them back into position, I needed to slightly and gently rotate them back and I assumed that looking at the heli and main rotor directly from aside - the paddles should look as they are 0 degrees angled - is that correct calibrating?

thanks!

mrasmm

yeah, those are supposed to be level with the head, ie 0 when the servo's are on and leveled (unplug the motors first though if you do it that way). If they are not, you'll have a really squirly bird if you can fly it at all =)

Whirley Bird

My Feedback: (1)

100% flat and level with no pitch what so ever.
Make sure the fly bar is also straight.
Use some thing against it.
It's best to get a new fly bar
Also measure the distence between the collor on th epaddle and the one that goes up against the head.
The more precision measuring you put into any heli the better it will fly.
I even weigh my paddles,blades and tail rotor blades.

denis1

OK, that's a good advices!

One more question - even when I adjust those small paddles' pitch to zero (just as you suggested - when servos are on and leveled)- I can see that heli still has tendency to drift slightly backwards. How can I calibrate that?
Battery is already positioned forward as much as it could be (I'm using Li-Po battery)...

Whirley Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Run it up slow and see what servo controls the forward and back movment and adjust that linkage that goes to that servo.
Or you can remove the servo arm and mobe it uo 1 notch on the splined shaft of the servo.
Because your battery is so far forward I would remove the servo arm,turn on the TX then let the servo take a set and then put the servo arm back on.
If you still have the problem then adjust the linkage on that servo or remove the arm and move it up on the servo shaft.
Remember to keep all sliders centered when making adjustments.
The swash plate should be nice and level.
Vegas/