RC-MAN-4EVA

hi

i just got a honey bee cp2 today and i nearly crashed it 5 minutes ago.. i'm not shure if the servo reverser switches r suppose to be all down (normal) or up (reversed)?

thanks

ccpmheli

Hello, You should also check that the heli hangs level(CG) when supported by the flybar. Also, unplug the motor's leads(remember their orientation and location) from the 4-N-1, turn on the transmitter, plug the battery in to the heli and check the swashplate for....(assuming throttle stick is on the left of your transmitter).... When elevator stick is pushed forward, swashplate tilts toward the nose of the heli, when the elevator stick is pulled back, the swashplate tilts toward the tail of the heli, when the aileron(same stick as elevator) stick is moved to the left, the swashplate(as viewed from the rear of heli), tilts left, when the aileron stick is pushed to the right, the swashplate(as viewed from the rear of heli), should tilt towards the right. Good Luck

RC-MAN-4EVA

hey thanks i just fixed my problem... but why does the tail shift without my command like it always shift to the right and sometimes to the left when i trim it out.. it never stays in the middle (too use to nitros)

ccpmheli

Keep in mind that I own the fixed pitch Honey Bee, but this applies to most helis. For starters, an effort should be made to balance spinning parts, such as the tail rotor. As far as the tail goes, if your heli uses an All-N-One Receiver, Esc, and Gyro, it will typically have a couple of small adjustment trim pots on it. One of these usually adjusts the main rotor to tail rotor mixing ratio(Torque Cancellation)or revo-mixing, and another one to adjust the gyro's gain. If your heli(assuming clockwise(as viewed from the top of rotor) main rotor rotation) seems to go nose left when you apply throttle, and may also go nose right when you reduce throttle, you may need to increase the "proportional" a.k.a. main to tail mixing(revo mixing). If the opposite is true, you may need to reduce it. If the tail is rapidly jerking back and forth(gyro hunting) at hover(steady throttle position), then you may need to reduce the Gyro's "Gain" pot. If the tail seems to wander more slowly(Drift) at steady throttle, you may need to increase the Gyro's gain pot. This stuff should be covered in your heli's manual, and you should consult that to make sure. Keep in mind that these little E-Sky helis don't typically have Locking(Heading Hold) Gyros, and some rudder stick is almost always required to keep the nose pointed where you want it. One rule of thumb I go by is, if the trim lever on the transmitter corrects the tail problem, the you concentrate on the Mixing "proportional" pot, if it does not, you concentrate on the Gyro's "gain" pot. Hope that helps. Good Luck!.
BTW, if your heli uses a seperate receiver, ESC, and external gyro, then revo mixing is usually adjusted on the transmitter, and the gyro will have it's own adjustments on the gyro or gyro's control module. Keep in mind with all of this, that most gyros are temperature sensitive, so it is a good idea to let the helicopter sit in the flying environment for a few minutes. For example, if you make the adjustments in an air conditioned living room, and then take the heli outside on an 85 degree day, and fly right away, you may find that your adjustments are all off. If you let the heli "get used to" the outdoor temp before powering up, you will probably find that your adjustments are OK.

ccpmheli

BTW Here is some good info for helis...>>> http://www.vankets.com/eco/flying-index.html

RC-MAN-4EVA

i see... can i replace the 4 in 1 with a reciever gyro and esc?

RC-MAN-4EVA

damn this bird still doesn't fly well..... today it was going crazy.... spinning left nonstop and i had to ground it.... i'm planning to bring it to the hobbyshop to take a look at it..

ccpmheli

You can, but the cost of a micro receiver with bec, a gyro and two ESCs(assuming you have a motor driven tail rotor), could easily be more than the cost of the heli. For now, if I were you, I would work with what I have.

RC-MAN-4EVA

so your saying if i have 2 motors driving my tail and a motor for the main blades then i need 3 ESC? btw whats BEC?

ccpmheli

Until you get the tail problem sorted out, you should bench test the heli, and not test by flying. A safe way to do this is to unplug the main rotor's motor lead from the 4-N-1. Next, secure the heli to your work bech, or simply hold the tail skids to the floor. Keeping in mind to stay clear of the tail rotor. Set the throttle stick and throttle stick trim to the lowest position,and turn on the transmitter. Next, plug in the heli's battery and wait for the 4-N-1's lights to stop blinking(don't move the heli till the light stops blinking, as the gyro is calibrating). If the tail rotor spins up right away, try setting the transmitter's Rudder reversing switch to the opposite position. If that switch is in the wrong position, the tail rotor will do the opposite of what you want, resulting in a wildly spinning heli. Keep in mind that the tail motor only rotates in one direction, so the tail is only controlled by how fast the tail rotor spins, when it does not spin, the heli will spin opposite of main rotor rotation,(nose goes left as viewed from the rear), if the tail rotor spins at max speed, the heli will spin in the direction of the main rotor(nose goes right as viewed from the rear). Of course, it is posible that your heli's 4-N-1 might be defective, but try the above before condemming it. If you live in the continental US, send me a PM with your Ph# and the times I can call(and the time zone you are in), and I will try to talk you through it over the phone. We could make much quicker progress that way, and determine whether your heli's 4-N-1 is good or not. Plus I am a very slow typer, and I wanted to cover confirming the gyro's correct operation as well. Good Luck!

ccpmheli

You have a motor driving the main rotor, so that will need an ESC. If your tail rotor is driven by it's own motor(some models are shaft or belt driven), it will need an ESC too. If your tail rotor is driven by a shaft or belt, then you will only need the ESC for the main rotor's motor. If you have two motors driving the tail rotor, you would only need two ESCs, one for the main rotor's motor, and one ESC for the two tail motors. BEC stands for "Battery Eliminator Circuit" this allows the main battery pack to power the motor and receiver/servos, etc, so they do not need their own battery(reduces flying weight). Your 4-N-1 has a BEC built in.

RC-MAN-4EVA

i just sent the chopper to the hobby store to take a look. by the way is the 7mm Boom Conversion kit with clamps and dual mount on this link: http://helihobby.com/html/blade_helicopter.html worth buying? exactly what does it do? and does it incease the performance

thanks

ccpmheli

I have no experience with the dual motor setup, but it is supposed to split the current load across two motors, thereby increasing the life expectancy of the motors(each works half as hard as a single motor). I don't know if any performance is gained other than the potential increase in lifespan, I suppose it could benefit the tail rotor's response time a little. It will also add weight to the tail, and the rule of thumb is, any weight added to the tail will take 3 times that weight on the nose to compensate and maintain the proper CG.
I do not know if it is worth buying or not. The reason I went with the ducted fan, was to eleminate the potential for tail rotor ground strikes(or even grass) from damging the tail motor. When a brushed electric motor is stalled(kept from turning while energized), a direct short is presented to the motor and the ESC, severe damage can result to both from this. I got tired of chopping the throttle on landing to avoid that. The ducted fan's rotor is encased(and a greater distance from the ground) in the duct and will usually not be effected by subtle ground strikes. Also, the DF's motor comes with a heatsink preinstalled on the motor, this should extend performance and the lifespan of the motor. Plus, I think it looks pretty cool and has a much more pleasurable sound than the gear lash of the o.e.m. tail.

RC-MAN-4EVA

good point, i'm going to think about the ducted fan tail, cause i'm going to be flying mostly on grass fields.

ccpmheli

Cool. Let me know if I can help with the install.
BTW, The low volt fan was only US $15, and $5.50 S&H covered everything I ordered. For 9.6 volt and up(high voltage fan), the price of the fan was US $17. Here is what I got...

RC-MAN-4EVA

i don't get it, so you bought 2 ducted fan system? I thought i only needed one, whats the difference betweeen the 2 ducted fans and which one do u recommend for me? right now i'm runninga 11.1V lipo battery 3 cell @ 1000mAh and another cell 3 cell @11.1V @1350mAh

ccpmheli

I bought the two different fans for two different helis. You have seen the conversion on my Honey Bee using the low volt(=/< 8.4 volt). I also have a Walkera 22E that uses a 10.8 volt pack, and so I got the high volt fan(=/> 9.6volts) for its eventual conversion. I want to fly the o.e.m. tail on the 22E for a few flights so I will have something to compare the DF to. The fans I bought were the EDF-40(low volt) and the EDF-40H(H=High volt), they have one more choice, an EDF-50, it is a high volt, and I believe it has a slightly larger fan diameter. The EDF-50 will probably weigh a little more and draw more current, and I personally did not feel it was needed on these helis, I will let you know what I think after I do the mod on the 22E. With the voltage of your batteries, your choices will be the EDF-40H or the EDF-50, I cannot say which one would be best, but I assume the 40H would be a good choice. You can contact the folks at helihobby, they may better be able to tell you which one is more suitable for your Heli. Let me know how it works out. Remember, if you want me to call you PM me with a Ph# and we can cover more ground quickly. If you are in the continental US, I will pay for the call.

RC-MAN-4EVA

i'm starting to like the honeybee now, if only i can get it up and hovering.... too bad its my dad's heli... maybe if i buy him a blade CX then maybe i can haf his CP2 cause he's a noobie and he doesn't have time to have lesssons or sim so i think double blade and fix pitch heli would work best indoors in his office... more stable + easier

ccpmheli

Did you get the tail rotor problem fixed? I have heard that the coaxial helis are easier to fly in tight spaces, your dad may appreciate that.

RC-MAN-4EVA

yup got that fixed man this bird is harder to fly then Raptors.... it keeps on flying away in the wind... probably gonna rent a sqaush or tennis court at my rec centre and smuggle my heli in to fly

RC-MAN-4EVA

btw my battery pack positive wire rubber cover thing spilt open... is it still safe to charge or should i discard it?

ccpmheli

Certainly exercise caution when dealing with LiPo batteries, these can be very dangerous. However, if the insulation on the positive lead is torn(not burned), you should be able to cover the tear with a little electrical tape, and I would recommend it. The thing you want to be careful about with these LiPo batteries is when they swell or are otherwise deformed. These things are a real fire hazard when the cells become damaged.

Simon Smart

Hi. I am a new rc Universe'r, and have followed your discussion on the problems you expierienced with controlling the tail on your Honeybee CP2.
I have exactly the same problem, and suspect it is either the 4 in 1 or the tail motor itself. In your reply you said you had sorted the problem out. Do you mind telling me have you fixed it?

Many thanks
Simon

ac7kh

Speaking of tail rotors, I just bought a HB CP2 off of Ebay and it arrived today. I already have a X400 and a Blade CX and I am always updating them with CnC goodies. As I look as the HB CP2 I see it has a CnC twin motor mount tail rotor but there is noway to secure it to the tail boom. It is loose and turns on the boom is this normal ?? There doesn't seem to be a grub screw or any other way to secure the Twin Motor mount to the tail boom. Any suggestions ??

Thanks

Robert