Old Dutch

My Feedback: (34)

I could use your help in properly setting up the head. I do not know how to adjust the washout arms to level. This head is missing the adjustable links that my T Rex has. The servo arms are level, as is the swash (done with a tool). The washout arms are both at a bit of an angle. The only thing that levels the arm is when the collective is at full negative.

Another odd thing is to get the desired amount of pitch (about 10 deg) I have set the swash-mix pitch setting at -100. I believe that half of that should be the way to go......but that is what I've had to do to get the pitch.

Are these two things related in any way?

By the way, the swash and washout base is aftermarket metal.

Your help would be most appreciated and would eliminate my headache!..........Thank you, Rich

funflier

I moved my fin to the left side (from the back and drilled the plastic holder from the opposite side into the boom with a small numbered drill (about a 50 or 53), and secured the bracket with one of the small screws that came extra with the heli. As long as you drill into the center of the boom and not angle the drill up or down you can insert the screw and it will not interfer with the belt. I also cleaned out the burr inside the boom with about a 3/8 inch drill that is about 6 inchs long by pushing it up and down inside the boom by hand until any burr was gone then inserted the screw. Never had a problem after that. I later changed out my bracket, as they no longer make that small white bracket with the hole in it it anymore (only the half cut bracket) to a gear retract bracket for a plane and went to a diff tail skid that was much sturdier. Besides I could paint it to match the rest of the heli.
BTW if you break your tail boom supports you can take length of 5/16 hollow brass tubing (alum thin wall is too soft) and flatten each end and drill the flat with about a 1/16 drill and it will never break on you again.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

What are you guys using for dampeners to stiffen up the stock head?

warpnine

Today I tried putting a single layer of electrical tape over the tail boom where the verticle fin mounts, and found it did a good job of stopping it from rotating! I even used the normal, slick plastic tape - and it worked great!

One embaressing thing that I discovered when I took the fin mount off, was that the tightening screw was not anywhere tight enough to even touch the tail boom - so when I put it back on I tightened it up some more (but it was not rotating even without that - with just the tape on). Originally I had tightened the screw until it was tight, not wanting to dent the tail boom - but the plastic didn't have much of a hole in it, so the screw was tight before getting within 3 turns of the tail boom!

After doing spin-up excercises in the drive way (too windy to fly), now I think I need to re-adjust my gyro set up a little. In HH mode the tail was moving slightly to the left when I got up to about 60% throttle, and then stabilized about 2 to 3 inches from center. I want to re-center the tail servo and set up the gyro travel limits again, to see if that helps...

Cheers,
Dave

delvallejr

Hey guys,

Very good advice about using the electircal tape to add a little bit of diameter for a stronger hold of the clamp. I've used that trick before. I don't know why i didn't think of it at the time.

About the CA suggestion, I have found that some of the plastics used on these helies don't permanently bond with CA. Also I took for granted the use of Plastic safe CA. I've used it to hold the little bar that holds the body on.

About leveling the washout base, on the king there are two things that will affect your ability to level it. Assuming your swash plate is level, which you indicated it is, the only things that affect it are the lengths of the linkages from the servos to the swash, and if the flybar controll arms are on the same plane with the flybar. In other words, if you have the flybar paddles perfectly flat and level, the pivot balls on each of the control arms should be lined up with the screw that holds the see-saw and you would be able to draw a line that intersects all three items simultaneously. Also, if you have the CNC head, you will notice that the set screws are in line with the opening of the pivoting see-saw part of the flybar assembly. I hope this makes sense. It makes sense in my head, but I have the nack for complicating otherwise simple explanations.

Cheers and good luck.

Old Dutch

My Feedback: (34)

DEL..........many thanks for your advice on the washout. Problem solved. It was the alignment of the paddle bar control arms. The owner's manual merely advises, "level the washout arms". What a cop-out! However, I really don't know how I would go about detailing how it's done either. I merely moved the washout arms level, using my fingers, and then leveled the paddles to line up with the things which you mentioned. Good job Del.

May the winds hold their breath for you.......Rich

delvallejr

Old_D,

glad to hear I was able to help...well what do ya know....

funflier

I use the Eflite EFLH1159 at $2.00 for a pack of 4 and a little piece of tubing to store them on. My LHS does not stock the Esky 0 rings anymore.
Also there is a #60 faucet washer that looks about the same size but the hole is actually a little too large to cinch down on the feathering shaft correctly and if you use it you will have erratic blade tracking problems.

hamid_fireage

Thank you guys,

I used about one layer of electrical tape on the tail and it sticks rock solid. I also removed the extra tape with a knife. Lets have a crash landing to see the results
If it slips again I would think of drilling it and will follow the funflier's project

Happy new year and have fun

delvallejr

Happy New Year to all you King Lovers and Wing Nuts :P

May your crashes prove fruitful and worth the cost of the replacement parts

JustinGB

quick question: I just bought an hbk2 accompanied with the necessary bs(3100)/esc upgrades. Should I replace them right out of the box or should I try to get some use out of the stock motors?

As a reference, I have zero flight experience and not sure if my experience will differ between the two

osterizer

I personally would give it a whirl with the original setup first, so you have an idea of the default behavior. If you take it easy and keep your run times low (3-4 minutes) then the motor should last a few flights at least.

betapilot

Just to be clear, you say it is a 3100 and is an upgrade so the stock 3700 brushed motor is gone? If that is so, the 3100 is seriously underpowered but should still give you plenty of good flights without fail and I would fly it until I found it necessary to replace it either through failure or progression of skills.

noobflyer01

i flew with the 3100kv motor and stock esc for a long while. flight times are good. its perfect for learning. the only downside is that it stutters on start up. you'll get used it quickly on how to start it. so no biggie..minor inconvenience.

JustinGB

I tried to avoid the 3900kv as much as possible for a few reasons, even though I know it's in my future. For the main part, I did not want to buy a bigger battery and charger right away. I bought a 1250mah battery and keeping the stock 1000mah battery to keep flight times at a maximum for learning and I know i don't need that power right away.

MuggyDude

Anyone interested in a Honeybee King 2? It's only been used 5 times and it has a tone of spare parts and a few upgrades like better battery and tail hold gyro, looking to get rid of it cheap. Going for easier heli. PM me if interested. Working great. Also has training gear.

alsmaker

Hi All, and Happy New Year.

Recently (mid December) i have came across RC Helicopters in youtube, and decided to join the Club. I was reading this forum for some 2 week or so and last week order Honey Bee King V2 + Upgrades.

As i am very new to this so i would like to have your professional opinion on the thing i bought, whether they are good quality parts or whether i should go for other brands next time. I would also appreciate if you could suggest a better set-up for my next shipping spree or better prices.

Here is the list of the Items i bought:

1. ESKY Honey Bee King 2 RTF RC Helicopter 72mHz = $163.99
2. New EK2-0704B Esky Head Lock Gyro for R/C Helicopter = $39.80
3. EK5-0398 Pink Tail Gear Box for Honey Bee King 2 Upgrade = $16.69
4. EK4-0188 Carbon Fibre Tail Boom for ESKY King 2 = $13.99
5. Pink Metal Upgrade Parts for ESKY Honey Bee King 2 RC Heli = $39.99
6. 3900KV Esky Ek5-0005 Outrunner Brushless RC Motor = $17.03
7. Xtreme 400X 4000kv, 20 Amp Brushless Motor for King 2 - ESK007 = $29.50
8. Xtreme 43 Tooth Pulley w/Belt & Idlers King 2 - ESK005 = $16.50
9. Xtreme Frame Stiffener for King 2 - ESK008 = $18.00
10. Xtreme LED Battery Alarm - EA-020 King 2 = $20.00
11. Xtreme Alum. Anti Rotation Bracket for King 2 - ESK001 = $9.50
12. Xtreme Metal Head Stopper for King 2 - ESK004 = $8.50
13. Xtreme Blue Landing Skid Rubber Nut for King 2 EA-013-B = $4.00
14. Xtreme Motor Pinion 9T - EA-015-09T / EK1-0351 = $3.50
15. Xtreme Pinion Gear Remover Tool EA-019 King 2 = $16.50
16. 10pcs 275mm Wooden blades for Esky King 2 Belt CP SW275 = $9.99
17. 3 x Mystery 2200mAh 25C 30C 11.1v LiPo Li-Po RC Battery = $63.11
18. IMAX B6 Balance Charger For Lipo/NiMh Battery W/ Case = $29.99
19. AC Adapter for IMAX B6 B5 RC Balance Charger 60W 12V 5A = $13.99
20. EK2-0900A FlightSIM Cable E-Sky 4/6CH Transmitters USB = $6.69
21. RC tool kit box set of 13 Helicopter Plane NEW Pliers = $34.88
22. 10 pairs 4.0mm Gold Bullet connector brushless motor = $0.01

Total spend: $548 (including the shippment)

I thought to flight the heli stock and upgrade it gradually as i jain experience ( or if i crash and break some parts ).

I know that for the money I have spent i could get a t-rex 450, but with minor upgrades and with DX7 it came to around $900, and when I will crash it the repairs will be more expensive, so I went for Honey Bee as my first heli, plus i wanted to play around with tuning it, which is half the fun.

For my next shopping season I plan to buy the Carbon Frame and DX6I. Is there anything else you would sugest.

I would also appreciate if you can guide me on which parts break the most so that i can buy them in advance and save myself time and shipping.

Thank you all in advance.

JustinGB

Would the combo if a 43t pulley kit and bigger tail blades have TOO much tail control, if there's such a thing. Not sure if it would make enough force to create a negative effect.

Also, reading through this tuner thread( up to page 21 of 250...)
Forgot where I read it but which tail blades am I looking for? Was it from the trex 450se?

Thanks

sandrat

batwings by align work well.

bigbore

The HBK3 has a tail slider with pivoting linkage, anybody know if we can upgrade our HBK2 tails with just this part? Is there more involved? Can't, won't fit?

JustinGB

does anyone know where I can find some kind of setup video? the ones from sub-zero with his hbk2 have all been taken down and I need to set my heli up. I just got my heli and definitely needs some setting up. Full fight trim and rudder right and it's still trying to go left at higher throttle. Just need some guidance on what to tighten up/how to move servos to the right position etc...

unfortunately this is not like an rc car where left turns the wheels left... i am very unfamiliar with the adjustments the servo's are making and i'm not sure which way to adjust it.

THanks,
Justin

osterizer

Justin- take a look at the Electric Heli Beginners' Guide. It's a sticky in the Mini Helis forum on RCGroups if I remember right. Then go over to helifreak.com and register, and watch the setup videos in Finless Bob's tech room. You'll understand a lot more when you're done with that. If you're still not comfortable, take a skim through the threads, and in no time you'll be comfortable with what you need to do.

JustinGB

Thank you very much! Gonna start reading, it's a good place to start.

rayf01

Hi everyone. I am looking at buying a king II as my first heli and had some questions:



1.) I have read I should upgrade my motor and ESC to brushless... I have no clue what to go to though. the site I am ordering from has one motor I can order the following: Extreme 400X Brushless motor (4000kv-20A). Is this a good one. What does the kva rating mean? 4000 seems high compared to what a lot of you guys seem to be using, which is 3200 to 3900 and so on. With the ESC I have to get a Brushless one right? But does brand matter?

Also will that 4000 eat up a ton of battery time?

2.) Batteries. So if I have a ECS that is 25A that I upgrade to.. this means i have to purchase a new battery that is at least a rating of a 25c right? The c and the a have to match or the c has to be greater right? so that stock battery wont provide enough power is my guess. Can you guys suggest some other batteries that may be better to order

3.) As a new helicopter and pilot, are there any other good things to buy with this that I will most likley break often?

Cheam24

rayf01,
I can answer on question (3). The spares that you will likely need will be :

1. EK4-0004 Main blades ; since I started this hobby last year, I have used at least 5+ sets of blades.
2. EK1-0303 Main Gear Set ; if you have a crash that breaks the main blade, chances that there will be stripped teeth on the gear
(3+ units over year)
3. EK1-0344 Axis (Feathering shaft) :
a crash can bend the shaft, you can hammerred in straight but not all the time.
So you will need spares. (5+)
4. EK1-0289 Flybar ; you can also bend back a flybar to shape but it can never be like new. (3+)

Regards,
Cheam24