reel109

I agree, this thread sure did help me also. The setup is the most important thing to flying (and crashing) a heli.
Jim

fairnot

HI ALL!
We all have Rusty from Castlerock Hobbys for the information on this thread!
Others contibute But he did start it and is a great help with the setups and parts for the HBK 2!

Thank you Rusty and all others!!!!


No time Like fly time! AL

joizeex

so did anyone try HBK V3 yet? any feedback? seems like several places have them in stock on a regular basis.

HeliStyle

My Feedback: (2)

hey guys im looking into getting a used honey bee king 2 it has the following installed


3500KV Danlion brushless motor
30A Super Simple ESC
NEW Zippy 1500mah Lipo
43 tooth tail rotor upgrade


is there any forseen problems with this setup?

joizeex

uh oh, looks like someone did make a jump from the 4#3B thread! lol welcome to the Esky side.

that Danlion motor is solid and i haven't heard of anyone being disappointed with one. the ESC looks like it's up to task with 30A. i don't know about zippy batteries, but 1500mAh is perfect on the HBK. the most you would put is 1800 because anything above that is too heavy to have any real fun. as long as the battery is 15C discharge rate or above, it'll do just fine. lastly, the 43T will give better tail authority, so you're pretty much set. the only other recommendation i would throw in, is getting a Telebee heading hold gyro later on. rate gyro is ok, but may not be up to the task in strong wind gusts or crazy flying.

Azzir325

Can anybody give me a definitive answer on a gyro question?

My King 2 gyro (professional) will do its twinkle thing, but then, instead of steady red, I get flashing red and no rudder servo. Does this indicate a defective gyro? When I bypass the the gyro (ie: take the gyro out of the rudder line) and plug the rudder servo directly into the receiver, the rudder servo functions, although I can't keep the heli steady. Thanks.

fairnot

Hi Azz,
Did you not move the heli when it is flashing?
It takes in upwards of 13 seconds Sometimes to set.
If so you may want to check settings ...rev, norm, etc....
There are plenty of threads on this subject I just listed a couple of things I have read on your problem.
Check around you will find something wrote about it, hope that helps you out a little.
If I find anything I will list the page for you.

Azzir325

Thanks, Fair. In the past, this problem has happened and then self corrected I know not how. But now it seems to do this every time. I am looking thru this thread, but there are soooooooo many pages!

Azzir325

Nevermind, I just had a mishap and think the main shaft is now bent. I never have luck with these things they are so touchy and I am going to pack it back in the box and store it somewhere that my kids will find it when I die. And good riddance to it.

reel109

Azz,

Don't give up. I have been at this for about 2 years now and can just bearly hover. It is hard but very satisfying when everything comes together.

Jim

Azzir325

Yeah, everything was coming together just in time for the throttle to be reversed and the heli to jump to full throttle and fling itself into a table. Make me an offer, it has a brand new EK1-006 "super motor."

joizeex

well, reversed throttle is hardly the fault of the heli. what exactly happened? MOST RC's and especially helis require patience to learn how they work and how to troubleshoot them and lastly, how to fly them. anything with half-decent flight characteristics will not be completely RTF out of the box, although there are many cases where it was so. my HBK only needed some trimming in flight.

i'm not trying to knock on you, but you have to take your time with this hobby, that's just how it is. not everyone can handle it. many people are looking for a quick easy fun, but with helis that's usually not the case. i know people who had problems even with simple coaxial helis. at this point you can either suck it up and try to learn, or quit (looks like you've already decided on the latter)

Azzir325

You betcha!

betapilot

Hey Azz, If you will give it one more week I will donate some spare parts to help your cause and be glad to help with any advice I can. I know how frustrating these can be and I hate to see you in such a way over something you should be enjoying. Let me know what parts you need and I most likely have them in my spare parts drawer, like I said I will be glad to donate them if you will give it one more shot at rebuilding and flying the bird. Let me know if I can help.
Rusty

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Hello King II flyers,I'm a newbee to this sport and been reading alot ,spending a little on my HBK II. I was wondering which gear to go with the 3800 brushless motor and25amp esc for me learning to hover. I already have upgraded the head and tail and also have the esky 0704b headlock gyro. Anybody got any input or information or anything that would help me. I would also like to purchase the specktrum 6ex radio in the future.

joizeex

welcome to RCU.
i'm using the same motor with a 10T gear. that gives plenty of head speed for the usual flying around and "tons" of torque with that motor, as it's known for not being a high revving, but rather torquey. you can use 11T with this motor without much loss in torque and a decent gain in headspeed. that will also make the heli more responsive to cyclic inputs and i'm not sure if you want that yet, if you're just learning. with 10T it has plenty of head speed to be stable, but not overwhelmingly responsive.

honestly, you won't care so much about upgraded head while learning to hover, and when you crash (eventually) it'll be just more expensive parts that bend. some will say otherwise, but i personally would advise to put the plastic head back on for practice and breakage. then upgrade things when they break. just trying to save you some money.

if you haven't already, get that cheap $8 training gear for it. after you spin up the rotor, make sure you get it up in the air at least 3'. do this quickly, but not abruptly. it'll be easier to control once it's out of ground effect (near ground turbulence).

tune the tail trim first by sliding the tail servo back or forth on the boom after loosening the screws that hold it. notice which way servo arm moves when you correct with the stick and you'll know which way to move the whole servo. once you get the tail trim close enough, then use the trim on the radio.

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the info Joizeex but when I was testing it something happened and the motor stays running with no control. I checked the binding, it's ok. I'm guessing it must be in the stock 20amp speed controller.I still have the stock motor in it. Any suggestions on what's happening.

funflier

stock motors uaually last about 10 flights, same with the speed controller. One of your first upgrades will be to a brushless motor and at least a 30A brushless speed controller (but not a esky speed controller!)

osterizer

A 25A speed controller is plenty.

Pilot_Guy

I have a 3500 Tonic-X motor and 40 amp Hobbywing for my KBK2.

In fact, I have been working to get it flight ready.. in the next couple of weeks I'll have some hopefully warmer weather to at least run it up and play a little.

goofyfoot

After a long, long hiatus, I am returning. We had something transmitting in or neighborhood since last July and it was impossible to fly anywhere within 5 miles so sort of let it slide. Now it appears that whatever it was has returned to the mother ship.

I want to upgrade my sloppy plastic head and have been considering this product. http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-v2-CNC/Detail Has anyone tried this and what do you think? The price is obviously right as long as I do not crash it too much.

thanks,

osterizer

You can change to a metal head, but unless you're doing heavy aerobatics you won't get much of a difference. The stock head on the King is quite good.

funflier

stick to the stock head and replace the swashplate with the metal one off a Eflite ( they are cheaper then the Esky). Most of the replacement heads as your looking at are same as the purple counterfit from HK and do need a little tweaking to make really tight. Unless your into cutting down bolts and retapping parts, they are not worth the effort unless you like to build more then fly like me, then your going to be in heaven cutting and fileing. Metal heads do not break nor bend much most problems are slop from bad bearings or bushings or bolts working loose mostly due to being too short or bad tapping. Bad side is they most have very very poor swashplates and washout contorl arms, and I have had a few seashplates that litterly fell apart in runups, and that is scary when your entire head starts to come apart on the bench!

goofyfoot

Osterizer, funflier,

Thanks for your input. I sort of thought the assembly I was looking at was one of the counterfeit units. I do have a lot of tools and like to tinker so retapping, cutting screws and making it tight might be fun. However, if I will end up with simple bushings rather than good bearing support than the metal will not be an upgrade - need to think about this. The Eflite swash plate sounds interesting.

Somthing has to be changed as although the head is intact it is very, very loose. It is now over a year old, seen a lot of crashes and many parts. Maybe a new heli???

osterizer

Yeah, if the old one's wearing out it's a different story. Mine's been down for a while for the same reason- ESky allie head is just plain exhausted after a huge number of flights. I don't know if I'd call that head a counterfeit- it's not intended to deceive you into thinking it's the ESky parts, it's just an aftermarket setup. What I've seen of the parts it looks ok, but will the whole unit work out or hold up? No idea.