Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
04-01-2008, 07:41 AM
#3801
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
I was hoping someone could help me with a problem as I am stumped. I had a pretty bad crash, broke the main frame, the usual blade, feathering shaft, main gear and took out the canopy. I rebuilt changing all damaged parts. When I have it reassembled, my pitch curves are all off about 10 degrees. For instance, in normal I used to have -3, 5 and 10 and low, middle and high stick. Now I have 0, 10 and probably 15, my pitch guage won't even read it. Idle up is also off used to be -10, 0 and 10, now more like -5, 10 and 15.
Here is the background of what I have checked.
The main shaft was not bent so I removed the entire head assemply without taking apart. Therefore, I know my collar is still in the correct place on the main shaft (also my pulley and main gear line up perfectly). This means also my seesaw and links are on correctly. My blade grips are on the correct way, with nut indents on the bottom.
For the life of me I can't figure out how taking the head off and putting back on can change the pitch like this. It is like my whole swashplate range has moved up for some reason.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Here is the background of what I have checked.
The main shaft was not bent so I removed the entire head assemply without taking apart. Therefore, I know my collar is still in the correct place on the main shaft (also my pulley and main gear line up perfectly). This means also my seesaw and links are on correctly. My blade grips are on the correct way, with nut indents on the bottom.
For the life of me I can't figure out how taking the head off and putting back on can change the pitch like this. It is like my whole swashplate range has moved up for some reason.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
04-01-2008, 07:49 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Crashcrash;
In responce to your reply about putting a stringer on a scale fuse to keep the tail rotors out of the dirt. I just purchased a scale fuse for my k2 (will post a pic when it's done) and after reading that decided it's not a bad idea. The short and sweet version is my question, how do you make the stringer? Also what should it be made of? The fuse comes with a vertical tail that may offer some rotor protection but now you got me thinking. Thanks. S
In responce to your reply about putting a stringer on a scale fuse to keep the tail rotors out of the dirt. I just purchased a scale fuse for my k2 (will post a pic when it's done) and after reading that decided it's not a bad idea. The short and sweet version is my question, how do you make the stringer? Also what should it be made of? The fuse comes with a vertical tail that may offer some rotor protection but now you got me thinking. Thanks. S
04-01-2008, 08:11 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
You may have damaged one or more servos and made it skip or break teeth off. You can check easily by putting light resistance on each in turn and moving the swash. If one (or more) has a notchiness (or worse, dead space) in motion, then you found at least part of the problem.
ORIGINAL: court461
I was hoping someone could help me with a problem as I am stumped. I had a pretty bad crash, broke the main frame, the usual blade, feathering shaft, main gear and took out the canopy. I rebuilt changing all damaged parts. When I have it reassembled, my pitch curves are all off about 10 degrees. For instance, in normal I used to have -3, 5 and 10 and low, middle and high stick. Now I have 0, 10 and probably 15, my pitch guage won't even read it. Idle up is also off used to be -10, 0 and 10, now more like -5, 10 and 15.
Here is the background of what I have checked.
The main shaft was not bent so I removed the entire head assemply without taking apart. Therefore, I know my collar is still in the correct place on the main shaft (also my pulley and main gear line up perfectly). This means also my seesaw and links are on correctly. My blade grips are on the correct way, with nut indents on the bottom.
For the life of me I can't figure out how taking the head off and putting back on can change the pitch like this. It is like my whole swashplate range has moved up for some reason.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
I was hoping someone could help me with a problem as I am stumped. I had a pretty bad crash, broke the main frame, the usual blade, feathering shaft, main gear and took out the canopy. I rebuilt changing all damaged parts. When I have it reassembled, my pitch curves are all off about 10 degrees. For instance, in normal I used to have -3, 5 and 10 and low, middle and high stick. Now I have 0, 10 and probably 15, my pitch guage won't even read it. Idle up is also off used to be -10, 0 and 10, now more like -5, 10 and 15.
Here is the background of what I have checked.
The main shaft was not bent so I removed the entire head assemply without taking apart. Therefore, I know my collar is still in the correct place on the main shaft (also my pulley and main gear line up perfectly). This means also my seesaw and links are on correctly. My blade grips are on the correct way, with nut indents on the bottom.
For the life of me I can't figure out how taking the head off and putting back on can change the pitch like this. It is like my whole swashplate range has moved up for some reason.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
04-01-2008, 08:17 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: osterizer
You may have damaged one or more servos and made it skip or break teeth off. You can check easily by putting light resistance on each in turn and moving the swash. If one (or more) has a notchiness (or worse, dead space) in motion, then you found at least part of the problem.
You may have damaged one or more servos and made it skip or break teeth off. You can check easily by putting light resistance on each in turn and moving the swash. If one (or more) has a notchiness (or worse, dead space) in motion, then you found at least part of the problem.
04-01-2008, 08:26 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
[/quote]
Yes, sorry I should have also mentioned. I replaced gear sets on two of the servos, and the third I replaced the whole servo (It just kept buzzing). So my travel with all 3 cyclic servos looks even, i.e. swash is level at the top and bottom of the range. It does kind of seem like the servos are traveling up more than down though. But I didn't change any end-points or anything.
[/quote]
Did you center the servos at mid stick before you put the servo arms back on?
George
04-01-2008, 08:46 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: George1234
Did you center the servos at mid stick before you put the servo arms back on?
George
Did you center the servos at mid stick before you put the servo arms back on?
George
04-01-2008, 09:30 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: court461
Hmmm, you know, I thought I did. But this would make a lot of sense why my whole travel range has moved up if I centered the servo arms with the throttle down or even lower than center. This would give me higher than normal range in the up direction and less than normal in down, which is precisely what I am seeing. Now I can't wait to get home to see. I appreciate the help. I hope that is the answer. Amazing how I can look at something for an hour last night and can't figure it out, a different perspective is a lot of help.
ORIGINAL: George1234
Did you center the servos at mid stick before you put the servo arms back on?
George
Did you center the servos at mid stick before you put the servo arms back on?
George
George
04-01-2008, 03:33 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
So, if I get this centring business correctly, you want to turn on your stock Tx, let the heli initialise, upon which all servos should be centred (the actual servo itself, not necessarily the horns). Assuming this is correct, you then go and fit the horns to be at 90 degrees, then set linkages to level the swash. What position does the throttle need to be for this?
How high is the swash supposed to sit for this centring exercise at a given throttle position?
How high is the swash supposed to sit for this centring exercise at a given throttle position?
04-01-2008, 07:04 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Hati
So, if I get this centring business correctly, you want to turn on your stock Tx, let the heli initialise, upon which all servos should be centred (the actual servo itself, not necessarily the horns). Assuming this is correct, you then go and fit the horns to be at 90 degrees, then set linkages to level the swash. What position does the throttle need to be for this?
How high is the swash supposed to sit for this centring exercise at a given throttle position?
So, if I get this centring business correctly, you want to turn on your stock Tx, let the heli initialise, upon which all servos should be centred (the actual servo itself, not necessarily the horns). Assuming this is correct, you then go and fit the horns to be at 90 degrees, then set linkages to level the swash. What position does the throttle need to be for this?
How high is the swash supposed to sit for this centring exercise at a given throttle position?
George
04-01-2008, 11:00 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
hey guys i just bought a new spektrum Dx6i and im having a problem with the gyro im running a futaba gy-401 and i can't it to work with the gyro the gyro light flashes no matter what posistion the transmitter switch is in im just wondering what could be causing this im new to the whole computer radio on a heli thing so i have no idea what i should check it's probally just something stupid but either way i'd like to get back in the air asap
04-02-2008, 03:52 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Interesting issue I have gentlemen. I got today the DX6i, so instead of following on with swash and servo levelling from 3 posts above, I decided to bite the bullet and swap over the radio gear. It came with an AR6200 FYI.
Now, with the stock Tx the swash was nicely level, the horns were almost 90 degrees (only off by the notch positioning on the shaft), on idle up it nicely moved up half way the main shaft and stayed level. Rudder servo also sorted nicely, right angle and all that.
Enter the AR6200. After connecting the servos up (aux 1 took the RHS aileron otherwise all matched) following binding the Rx, I just assigned a model name and checked for operation of the servos. I did have it plugged in the wrong way, black wires to front rather then back. Once all connectors were rotated into the correct position, I checked servo function. I did not reverse anything, didn't change pitches, basically left the Tx as per factory default. I did set the swash to 120.
I get correct movement (directionally) for all the servos, including throttle dependant swash movement (up and down level), but the RHS aileron servo is only travelling about half of what its twin does. It does move the right way (opposite of the servo plugged into the aileron outlet of the Rx), but not enough. Also, it makes a noise while at maximum stick travel as if it was still trying to go further.
I left all the servo travel settings alone, minus the rudder one, as that was not moving all the way to both extremes on the tail shaft.
I am out of ideas what to check. Any input would be appreciated.
[hr]
OK, forget all that, thanks to Druss (I can't find the post for the life of me now) I got the setup done and dusted. The last hickup is now the sudden CCW spin of the heli while spooling up to about 40% throttle. Got a stock rate gyro on it for now, reversed the rudder servo and the gyro too but that way the gyro won't initialise. Goes into slow blinking after the fast bit. Not game enough to stick the 2100T on it just yet, hoped to do a bit of test hovering but I guess I am going back to the drawing board for now.
Now, with the stock Tx the swash was nicely level, the horns were almost 90 degrees (only off by the notch positioning on the shaft), on idle up it nicely moved up half way the main shaft and stayed level. Rudder servo also sorted nicely, right angle and all that.
Enter the AR6200. After connecting the servos up (aux 1 took the RHS aileron otherwise all matched) following binding the Rx, I just assigned a model name and checked for operation of the servos. I did have it plugged in the wrong way, black wires to front rather then back. Once all connectors were rotated into the correct position, I checked servo function. I did not reverse anything, didn't change pitches, basically left the Tx as per factory default. I did set the swash to 120.
I get correct movement (directionally) for all the servos, including throttle dependant swash movement (up and down level), but the RHS aileron servo is only travelling about half of what its twin does. It does move the right way (opposite of the servo plugged into the aileron outlet of the Rx), but not enough. Also, it makes a noise while at maximum stick travel as if it was still trying to go further.
I left all the servo travel settings alone, minus the rudder one, as that was not moving all the way to both extremes on the tail shaft.
I am out of ideas what to check. Any input would be appreciated.
[hr]
OK, forget all that, thanks to Druss (I can't find the post for the life of me now) I got the setup done and dusted. The last hickup is now the sudden CCW spin of the heli while spooling up to about 40% throttle. Got a stock rate gyro on it for now, reversed the rudder servo and the gyro too but that way the gyro won't initialise. Goes into slow blinking after the fast bit. Not game enough to stick the 2100T on it just yet, hoped to do a bit of test hovering but I guess I am going back to the drawing board for now.
04-02-2008, 07:47 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
If you know your gyro and tail servo are turning the correct direction (test by initializing the gyro, then turning your heli and make sure the gyro is causing the pitch of the tail rotors to increase/decrease correctly) and you still get counterclockwise spin, you probably just have to mechanically adjust the gyro. i.e. if you have counterclockwise spin, you would need to move the tail servo on the tail boom closer to the heli, thus increasing pitch on the tail rotors, in turn counter balancing the thrust of the main blades. Move the tail servo a little at a time until you get no spin.
04-02-2008, 07:50 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Thanks court461, that's what I was planning for tomorrow. I started off at the Esky recommended 1/3 distance on the tail shaft. See how the adjustment will work.
04-02-2008, 07:54 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: George1234
Hopefully it will be as simple as that. Good luck.
George
Hopefully it will be as simple as that. Good luck.
George
04-02-2008, 08:15 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
I've just been through the balancing act. I have a balancer for main rotors, but for the tail rotors you could just use a longer bolt and two nuts. Bolt the two blades together and suspend it by the bolt on something sharp. Works well.
04-02-2008, 08:56 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: court461
Well I got my pitch issue sorted out. I basically just redid all my ccpm setup from the beginning. I am still not sure how I got off, as I never took apart the head, but regardless it is now correct. Now I have a crazy vibration. The tail is vibrating very quickly back and forth, but just a few millimeters. I did a complete teardown again, replaced main shaft, flybar, rebalanced blades, centered flybar and still the vibration. The head actually looks like it is spinning symetrical from the top looking down, so I don't think it is a head problem. I don't have a scale to balance the tail rotors, but surely this couldn't cause such a vibration if they were a little off? Anyone know of something else to check for a tail wobble?
ORIGINAL: George1234
Hopefully it will be as simple as that. Good luck.
George
Hopefully it will be as simple as that. Good luck.
George
George
04-02-2008, 02:16 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Good price for 2200mah 25c lipo plus when you order anything from them you get a free crystal set, or 9g servo. (who needs crystals anymore?) I'd pick the servo. just thought I'd let you guys know.
http://viphobby.com/fma_direct
http://viphobby.com/fma_direct
04-02-2008, 02:37 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: George1234
Is it a vibration, or a quick "wag"? A few millimeters is a large vibration. Wagging is usually caused by too much gain in a gyro.
George
Is it a vibration, or a quick "wag"? A few millimeters is a large vibration. Wagging is usually caused by too much gain in a gyro.
George
I have to add that I got the heli on brick pavement that has grooves and it is a fairly coarse surface, so it takes a fair bit of RPM to move the heli about on it. The alternative is some cardboard, but that is slippery as ice and not large enough to let the bird misbehave without the risk of bobbing to the edge and tipping over.
04-02-2008, 03:07 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
You might want to revisit your rudder and gyro settings. What you're describing is what happens when your rudder is in the correct setting (Normal or Reverse) but your gyro isnt'. Try playing around with it a little more.
Are you using the stock tail servo?
Are you using the stock tail servo?
04-02-2008, 03:15 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Thought this was one of the "prettier" King 2 upgrade heads I have seen! Not released as of yet but wow, cool! Anyone ever buy from this site?
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...nc-head/Detail
Z
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...nc-head/Detail
Z
04-02-2008, 03:36 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: GTX SlotCar
You might want to revisit your rudder and gyro settings. What you're describing is what happens when your rudder is in the correct setting (Normal or Reverse) but your gyro isnt'. Try playing around with it a little more.
Are you using the stock tail servo?
You might want to revisit your rudder and gyro settings. What you're describing is what happens when your rudder is in the correct setting (Normal or Reverse) but your gyro isnt'. Try playing around with it a little more.
Are you using the stock tail servo?
BTW what would be a noob friendly normal mode pitch curve?
04-02-2008, 04:20 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
You might want to try disconnecting the gyro and running the tail servo right into the Rx. Spin your heli up a little and make sure the tail control it correct. Left stick to turn CCW.
If that's right, connect your gyro again and try mounting it upside down.
I'm not familiar with your radio, so I can't help with those settings.
If that's right, connect your gyro again and try mounting it upside down.
I'm not familiar with your radio, so I can't help with those settings.
04-02-2008, 04:35 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
One clarification. You said rudder left to rotate the heli CCW. I thought (and practised it in sims) that from a tail in POV, left stick moves tail left (CW), right stick moves tail right (CCW). Do I have my fundamentals wrong?
04-02-2008, 04:38 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
I guess no ones really familiar with the spektrum Dx6i yet i figured out why the gyro wouldn't initalize but now i have another question i know i've read some basic setup notes for the old Dx6 in here somewhere just cant remember what page anyone know ... mainly im just looking for a decent radio set up sheet that will work with the king 2 its pretty sad when i could fly with the stock transmitter just fine and now i can't fly at all with new computer radio lol its my luck[:'(]