Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
#5026
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
#5027
RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Well, I'm very good with soldering and circuit boards, with the symptoms it doesn't really sound like a bad solder joint to me, but I'll get out my VOHM and check it to make sure.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
You got a bent feathering shaft for sure....I know that. The motor problem...I've found very poor soldering on the connectors on E-Sky motors, and they use steel wire. Strip the shrink tube off your connectors (motor side) and see if you got bad solder....that's what it sounds like...broken wires on the connectors.
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
-lohchief
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
Hey Z...that's an awsome looking bird. Are you running Align 8g flybar paddles? I love them on my 400.
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Thanks for the fast response. I forgot to mention that I run the extended boom and 315mm-325mm blades. Just making sure that it will still handle the load. I am not much of an electronics guy...I need to work on that!
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
ORIGINAL: osterizer
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
Peace,
Z
PS....Thanks guys, I am off to the LHS to buy some parts and meet up with Mr. Funflier. Having a brainstorming, idea swapping session! LOL.. Ya'll are invited..Hehehe... Califorina Hobbies in San Jose.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
I have the same issue, I run the 3900 Esky motor and ESC combo. I have allways had that problem. I think it's just an issue with the ESC. bad timing or something. I don't know. but I have never worried about it.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: lohchief
I bought the esky 3800 about 6 or 7 months ago.I ran it a couple of times and didn't like it,so I pulled it out and installed a alpha 400.Great little motor for the king,and if memory serves,it's cheaper then the esky.Since the 3800 is sitting in my parts box,I believe I will pull it apart and check the connections,and resolder if needed.When I had it in,it just didn't seem like it was spooling up all the way.The alpha on the other hand,(using the same esc)has been flawless.Smoother,and mucho quieter too.Very nice cheapo motor.Vic,I looked up the HDX450's.I like,and I will buy a couple for my 450's.320 plus watts for not much,yeah,,,,that works fer me.
-lohchief
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
You got a bent feathering shaft for sure....I know that. The motor problem...I've found very poor soldering on the connectors on E-Sky motors, and they use steel wire. Strip the shrink tube off your connectors (motor side) and see if you got bad solder....that's what it sounds like...broken wires on the connectors.
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
-lohchief
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
Well, I'm very good with soldering and circuit boards, with the symptoms it doesn't really sound like a bad solder joint to me, but I'll get out my VOHM and check it to make sure.
Well, I'm very good with soldering and circuit boards, with the symptoms it doesn't really sound like a bad solder joint to me, but I'll get out my VOHM and check it to make sure.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
Chief...I had the 3200kv...it was fine till "I" runied it. I bought a 3500kv to replace it for the MX-400. I bought the 3800kv for the EXI-450 (and another ranger fuselage...LMAO). For the money....you cant beat the quality and reliability of the HDX motors. I heard the Alpha's were a POS. I had one here on a repair job, the mount screw holes (all 4) were stripped right out...metal is too soft...yup, POS.
ORIGINAL: lohchief
I bought the esky 3800 about 6 or 7 months ago.I ran it a couple of times and didn't like it,so I pulled it out and installed a alpha 400.Great little motor for the king,and if memory serves,it's cheaper then the esky.Since the 3800 is sitting in my parts box,I believe I will pull it apart and check the connections,and resolder if needed.When I had it in,it just didn't seem like it was spooling up all the way.The alpha on the other hand,(using the same esc)has been flawless.Smoother,and mucho quieter too.Very nice cheapo motor.Vic,I looked up the HDX450's.I like,and I will buy a couple for my 450's.320 plus watts for not much,yeah,,,,that works fer me.
-lohchief
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
You got a bent feathering shaft for sure....I know that. The motor problem...I've found very poor soldering on the connectors on E-Sky motors, and they use steel wire. Strip the shrink tube off your connectors (motor side) and see if you got bad solder....that's what it sounds like...broken wires on the connectors.
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
-lohchief
-lohchief
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
I read your post and checked my setup. HAVE THE SAME problem(free load without pinion on the shaft) also motor starts vibrating a bit at that dead area. all things are stock, just 3800+esky esc. I checked with 3100 (again free load) no problem at all.
Please let me know if you figure it out
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: lohchief
Yeah,the motor mount is kinda soft,but the damn thing runs just great in the king,tons of power too.Did you get your exi 450 yet? I'll be ordering another one maybe this week,along with some other parts etc.I'm also gonna get the heliartist H500d fuse(unpainted),and maybe a 58 fuse too.As much as I didn't like the real ones,the 58 sure makes a fine scaler
-lohchief
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
Chief...I had the 3200kv...it was fine till "I" runied it. I bought a 3500kv to replace it for the MX-400. I bought the 3800kv for the EXI-450 (and another ranger fuselage...LMAO). For the money....you cant beat the quality and reliability of the HDX motors. I heard the Alpha's were a POS. I had one here on a repair job, the mount screw holes (all 4) were stripped right out...metal is too soft...yup, POS.
ORIGINAL: lohchief
I bought the esky 3800 about 6 or 7 months ago.I ran it a couple of times and didn't like it,so I pulled it out and installed a alpha 400.Great little motor for the king,and if memory serves,it's cheaper then the esky.Since the 3800 is sitting in my parts box,I believe I will pull it apart and check the connections,and resolder if needed.When I had it in,it just didn't seem like it was spooling up all the way.The alpha on the other hand,(using the same esc)has been flawless.Smoother,and mucho quieter too.Very nice cheapo motor.Vic,I looked up the HDX450's.I like,and I will buy a couple for my 450's.320 plus watts for not much,yeah,,,,that works fer me.
-lohchief
ORIGINAL: crashcrash
You got a bent feathering shaft for sure....I know that. The motor problem...I've found very poor soldering on the connectors on E-Sky motors, and they use steel wire. Strip the shrink tube off your connectors (motor side) and see if you got bad solder....that's what it sounds like...broken wires on the connectors.
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
-lohchief
-lohchief
#5036
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
now you guys know why I stopped stocking esky brushless motors a long time ago. I have found at least 3 motors that are better for the same price and two that are the exact same thing for $10 bucks less just under a different name, lol. I recently tested the tonic-x motors on the king, the dragonus, and the shark and all three I tested performed flawlessly. I swapped each motor from bird to bird and it seemed to make little difference on these motors as far as load was concerned. Temps stayed low and flight times were pretty decent, I would say for the price they are decent little motors. I am also a very big fan of the danlion for the king, once again for the money they are really hard to beat. I think though that more attention should be paid to the esc than the motor, it has been my experience that you can get away with a crappy motor/good esc but you cannot get away with good motor/crappy esc. For the money I personally do not think you can beat the hobbywing 30a w/ ubec, the waypoint 25a or the danlion 33a, they have consistently given excellent performance and reliability and none of them run $40 bucks so you do not have to spend a fortune to get good reliable equipment.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Opps typo there: NOOO 20 22 tooth pinion ment a 10-11 tooth.
yes you can usually install the 11 tooth and thats what most end out with in the 3800. The 3900 I found actually lost a little headspeed with the 12 tooth and the 11 was still a tad too high only because the 3900 lacks the torque of the 3800 at full half stick to full stick. (RPM actually dropped off a a few hundred rpm according to my tach).
so you may want to stick with the 3800 and 11 tooth and do little to mod the frame (if anything). Don't know if I mentioned it but those frames due crack right behind the motor (hard landings) so you might think about the frame stiffener from Xtream for about 11$ which also acts as a heat sink and motor mount reinforcement.
yes you can usually install the 11 tooth and thats what most end out with in the 3800. The 3900 I found actually lost a little headspeed with the 12 tooth and the 11 was still a tad too high only because the 3900 lacks the torque of the 3800 at full half stick to full stick. (RPM actually dropped off a a few hundred rpm according to my tach).
so you may want to stick with the 3800 and 11 tooth and do little to mod the frame (if anything). Don't know if I mentioned it but those frames due crack right behind the motor (hard landings) so you might think about the frame stiffener from Xtream for about 11$ which also acts as a heat sink and motor mount reinforcement.
#5038
RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Thanks Betapilot, I'm leaning toward the ESC as well, I believe I'll take your advise and swap the motor/ESC, now I just have to start learning the motor differences, 3200, 3500, my brain still hurts from trying to learn how to fly! Will I get comparable runtimes with the Danlion combo you have on Castlerock?
#5039
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
David, check this out http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/calc.htm it helped me understand how kv rating, pinion tooth count, main gear tooth count and battery mah's affect head speed and run time.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: funflier
Opps typo there: NOOO 20 22 tooth pinion ment a 10-11 tooth.
yes you can usually install the 11 tooth and thats what most end out with in the 3800. The 3900 I found actually lost a little headspeed with the 12 tooth and the 11 was still a tad too high only because the 3900 lacks the torque of the 3800 at full half stick to full stick. (RPM actually dropped off a a few hundred rpm according to my tach).
so you may want to stick with the 3800 and 11 tooth and do little to mod the frame (if anything). Don't know if I mentioned it but those frames due crack right behind the motor (hard landings) so you might think about the frame stiffener from Xtream for about 11$ which also acts as a heat sink and motor mount reinforcement.
Opps typo there: NOOO 20 22 tooth pinion ment a 10-11 tooth.
yes you can usually install the 11 tooth and thats what most end out with in the 3800. The 3900 I found actually lost a little headspeed with the 12 tooth and the 11 was still a tad too high only because the 3900 lacks the torque of the 3800 at full half stick to full stick. (RPM actually dropped off a a few hundred rpm according to my tach).
so you may want to stick with the 3800 and 11 tooth and do little to mod the frame (if anything). Don't know if I mentioned it but those frames due crack right behind the motor (hard landings) so you might think about the frame stiffener from Xtream for about 11$ which also acts as a heat sink and motor mount reinforcement.
I didnt buy the pinion yet but my choice would be exactly 11T. I should install it on the shaft then see what modification required.
In case of stiffener I googled the xtream production but found nothing then it said did you mean xterme production? just went there and found the stiffener(if you mean somthing else please reply me). Its realy nice and Im going to find it in some LHS in my area
Sorry for misunderstanding your post
#5041
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
yep thats it, darn spelling fingers.
Picture of one here:
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/index.p...c861fb6052e171
Picture of one here:
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/index.p...c861fb6052e171
#5043
RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
Hey,
I read your post and checked my setup. HAVE THE SAME problem(free load without pinion on the shaft) also motor starts vibrating a bit at that dead area. all things are stock, just 3800+esky esc. I checked with 3100 (again free load) no problem at all.
Please let me know if you figure it out
Hey,
I read your post and checked my setup. HAVE THE SAME problem(free load without pinion on the shaft) also motor starts vibrating a bit at that dead area. all things are stock, just 3800+esky esc. I checked with 3100 (again free load) no problem at all.
Please let me know if you figure it out
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Honestly, if you are going to change one component you might as just replace both after your diagnosis and reap the full benefits of each component, save that esky motor for an emergency if it still works.
#5045
RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: betapilot
Honestly, if you are going to change one component you might as just replace both after your diagnosis and reap the full benefits of each component, save that esky motor for an emergency if it still works.
Honestly, if you are going to change one component you might as just replace both after your diagnosis and reap the full benefits of each component, save that esky motor for an emergency if it still works.
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
I'm having some sudden RPM problems myself. I have mine flying on my Futaba 7CHP with my own curves. Lately it's been firing up on higher RPMs in normal mode but after 30 seconds it slows down. On Sunday the RPMs were variable and heated up my ESC and motor. I "wiggled" the motor wires, ( it the Extreme Pro 4000kv), and it cleared up for now. I changed out my Castle 25 Phoenix for a 40amp E-Flite, ( both are .8 ounces so no weight difference) and I've used all different batts with the same result. Only thing I can think is that the motor is going bad.
Any thoughts?
God Bless Y'all,
Jay
Any thoughts?
God Bless Y'all,
Jay
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Although this is about a Esky ESC I have had other ESC (Hobbywing)and tried to run them on the incorrect timing and if you step down on the timing say run a 8 pole motor on a lower pole timing it will get the ESC HOT HOT HOT and at the same time shake and have large loss of power. When I went the other way and ran the 8 pole on a 12 pole setting the motor got hot and also ran rough (never tried to fly it as the motor was smoking in about 1 min at full power on a bench)
I don't think the Esky has a timing setting other they what its set at when made.
Just for what its worth....
I don't think the Esky has a timing setting other they what its set at when made.
Just for what its worth....
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Do you guys know if I can use the new Spektrum receiver from Esky with the DX6i? I'm thinking about getting a HBKII and that receiver looks like it might work with the DX6i, but unsure of it.
Thanks in advance.
Kenn
Thanks in advance.
Kenn
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Crusader23
Do you guys know if I can use the new Spektrum receiver from Esky with the DX6i? I'm thinking about getting a HBKII and that receiver looks like it might work with the DX6i, but unsure of it.
Thanks in advance.
Kenn
Do you guys know if I can use the new Spektrum receiver from Esky with the DX6i? I'm thinking about getting a HBKII and that receiver looks like it might work with the DX6i, but unsure of it.
Thanks in advance.
Kenn
http://modelairplanenews.com/ME2/dir...AD5E1AE6F3BF69
-lohchief
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Davidjb
I'm going to swap out my esky motor and ESC in 2 weeks, I'll swap the ESC first and see if that solves the throttle problem before I install the new motor.
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
Hey,
I read your post and checked my setup. HAVE THE SAME problem(free load without pinion on the shaft) also motor starts vibrating a bit at that dead area. all things are stock, just 3800+esky esc. I checked with 3100 (again free load) no problem at all.
Please let me know if you figure it out
Hey,
I read your post and checked my setup. HAVE THE SAME problem(free load without pinion on the shaft) also motor starts vibrating a bit at that dead area. all things are stock, just 3800+esky esc. I checked with 3100 (again free load) no problem at all.
Please let me know if you figure it out