Tommyjoking

THX for all the replies.....I will see what I can do with it on setup and report back. Nice Hfenn

bassking511

ok guys...im trying to fix this stupid tail....i used the zip-tie mod so the belt doesnt jump anymore.....but i still cant get the tail to stay....
i can hold it mostly..but when it starts to get light on the skids, the tail still spins counterclockwise..... ive moved the servo further towards the batt tray..anymore and the servo would bind at full stick....i kinda had it going last night...but this darn thing has a mind of its own.. any ideas?
am i right in saying that the 43T upgrade will virtually solve this prob?

funflier

No it won't really as you have a underlying problem that has to be addressed. Actually it might even make it worse. Have you ever had your tail apart? Blades off it belt off the rear sprocket, tail slider apart. What is happening is your tail blades should be coutner acting the torque from the mains. If you give it full right stick on take off can you stop it from spinning? Your tail slider should be most of the way to the left (towards the boom) when at rest. Is your tail blades turning the correct direction (counterclockwise when viewed from the right side looking at the blades. Are your blades on backwards (yes that happens), is your tail blade holder assy on backwards (that does happen also).
I will see if I can find some pictures of what the tail blades should look like when at rest for you, If not I will take some pictures of mine.

funflier

Ok yere are your pictures of the tail. Even though its a cnc/Trextail it is basicaly the same tail, even uses like parts for the slider as far as general layout. First pic is stick left and see where the slider is, nearly all the way to the right and look at how much blade pitch is showing, not much as it is relying on the torque (equal and opposite reaction) to turn the heli. Next is center stick as in hover notice now that the slider is off center to the left and you can see some blade area biting into the air to pull the tail to the left and counteract that torque. Keep in mind that from the right side (blade side the blades are turning counterclockwise. Next picture is full right stick and now you can see a lot of blade pitch biting into the air to turn against the torque of the heli main blades.
Your heli should have about the same deminsions for the slider within the frame as the one above (slider is of course that little rubber looking wheel thing)
After you have done all that was on the last post check that your gain on the gyro is up to about 3/4.
Let us know as you could have a bad gyro but you should do all of the above on both posts before you condem the gyro.

Last picture is just a comparison of some diff blades, the Batwing Trex blades have considerable more area although it doesnt look like it then the stock Esky blades and also have a little more pitch to them along with actually have an airfoil which the Esky blades lack completely. Makes for a even stronger tail at about the same price for blades then the stock setup.

Crusader23

My Feedback: (1)

What do you guys think about the HITEC HS-50 servos to be used for the HBKII?

crashcrash

A little off topic....but I used some E-Sky HBKII components (LOL):

Hey guys.......EXI-450 (plastic version....$99 before ship) review:
I just finished building it last night and did a test hover in the basement today.

*motor...Danlion 3500KV (thanks Rusty!!!)
*ESC....Dynam 30a
*Gyro....Telebee with drift and temp compensation circuitry
*servos...E-Sky std 8g (x4)
*battery "zippy" 2200mAh 20C
*Radio system DX7 with AR6100E RX
All the above are new out of the box/package

First impression....I thought the tail rotor gearbox was a bit "cheap looking" and I really questioned the way it clamps to the boom without a position locking lug and I thought that MIGHT be an issue. I did change the allen screw out on the clamp to a higher quality screw, it locks securely and position change is not an issue unless you crash or land pretty hard. I also thought the plastic in general was a little lacking in quality but hasen't offered to be a problem as yet. The horizontal and vertical stabs....replace them with T-Rex stabs ASAP or at the first opportunity...physically too small for a 400 heli. The flybar paddle....I recommend changing them to Align 8G paddles as well as installing Align stock skids.

The build:
It took a couple hours to assemble. They give you a lot of extra hardware and there is NO instructions I could find in the box, the extra hardware is useable, but confusing during the build, but it's a basic 400 sized heli....not a problem. Installing the servos was a bit of a PITA...pretty tight in there (LOL). I placed the gyro dead center under the main rotor mast and I had to invert it and it faces rearward, but it's fine. Routing all the wires was pretty straight forward, the ESC and RX are mounted to the frame on the (outside the frame) side rear panels (gonna put a scale fuse on it later). I like the battery tray provided...well placed and thought out. You have a choice to put the battery on the upper slant tray or in the lower flat tray...I chose the lower tray.

Set-up: Took some time, but it normally does. I'm still pending some minor mechanical trim changes to the rudder and ailerons to get this bird zeroed out. The pitch settings in the head...you really gotta go through that. The initial was about 6 or 7 deg down at full stick down on collective. I did of course have to raise the swash quite a bit mechanically.

Test flight:
Other than the trims being a little off mechanically, no probs. VERY powerful, stable, and predictable. I had to tone down the throws on the servos and the D/R because it's VERY responsive to input. In the right hands...this bird is capable of 3d pretty handily right out of the box. The stock blades did NOT need balanced and are 325mm. The test flight went VERY well, and it's gonna take some time to trim 'er out.

Overall opinion: A great value with a good degree of quality. Don't skimp on any of the electronics/motor. I equiped this bird with pretty good stuff that is known to be reliable. Worth the $99 plus ship? You betcha.

reel109

I just put one on my tail. I think it is a little faster than the stock esky.

Crusader23

My Feedback: (1)

Do you think it'll be worth it for the cyclic servos?

George1234

Check the specs. I think the HS50 is good on speed (good tail servo), but down on torque (bad for cyclic). I think the HS55, or Esky standards might be better for cyclic.

George

kenhiraihnl

Riggerbill

Has any one heard from Rusty lately? I PM him and get no answer LOL Riggerbill

hamid_fireage

Thanks funflier for the detailed description, besides, the pictures are realy helpful no matter of the quality, the modifications are shown clearly. I dont have a good camera neither and take my photos with my camera phone.LOL.
The bearings wich I used are about 3*2*5mm(i forgot the exact dia but i may remove them and measure them by a caliper) fastened by the stock bolt. the only spacer i used is the one on the top two bearings (no anything between bearings). I did this project for both pushing and pulling idlers (left and right).
Please correct me if i misunderstood, Are you telling me the left side pushing idler(belt pushing into the boom) should be taller than the right side?
If its correct would it be ok if i just remove the lower bearing and replace it with the stock taller bearing using a taller bolt? and dont touch the right side?
On the cable tie project I dont know exactly what it does, but its an almost no cost project and i would try it.

The other issue i found is the end side of the boom that the tail gearbox attached on it. last time when i was disassembling the gearbox to replace the belt, i found a lot of black powder just at the place where the belt comes out of the boom. I just shaved the top and the bottom of the gearbox with a small file a bit and after tighten up the belt the box got bent. the belt is not at the center of the tail timming gear like before and its leaned on the right side of the gear collar(blade side).
I will post some pics of it.
Im not sure if I order an esky upgrade would solve the problem! I may going to find the hdx one which Rusty sells.

Thanks again

Crusader23

My Feedback: (1)

I guess I'll just stick with the HS-65MGs for cyclic servos. Thanks for the info.

funflier

Hamid I will get back to you, not exactly sure what you mean by what bearings your using the stock ones are "taller" then the ones that come in a 43t upgrade kit and the stock ones go on the bottom flange down. With your stock bearings you have 2 what look like bearing flanges, no bearing just the flange part of it so to speak. They are installed as shown in the picture, with the side that has the projection on it on one towards the bearing and the other with the projection towards the frame. This will give you correct spacing for the belt where it goes into the boom (we don't want the belt rubbing on the boom at this end either. The right side (passenger side) is left stock with the flange on the top with the projection pointing down and the stock bearing under it with its flange on the bottom. When viewing the belt installed it should look like its riding nearly agains the bearing flange on the right side and sitting low on the bearing on the left. It should look crooked!. This allows it to be centerd in the boom where it enters and makes its half turn in the boom and causes the belt to use more distance when it makes its half turn. When it exits at the other end it will NOT be centerd in the boom on the top or bottom as it is running at an angle due to the half turn so it will be close or touching the right side of the boom on the top before it runs over the rear pully and close or touching the left side of the boom on the bottom where it goes back into the boom. You can releave this with a small rat tail file do it is not such a square edge on the boom/housing and it will not wear the edge belt so much. Belt edge gets worn it gets weak and can ride up on the flanges of the idler.
The stock flanged bearing I believe is a 2x5x2.5mm or 2.3mm flanged bearings and the ones that come with the 43t upgrade are aprox 2x5x1.75mm flanged bearings both are avail from http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet/StoreFront have to search for them but I got them there before. about 3-4$ for set of 2. btw the first dimension is the size of the hole in the middle the second is the outside dia of the bearing without the flange and the last is the height of the bearing without the flange(flange is aprox .75mm on edge).

reel109

Hi Guys,
I can't get rid of tail wag. Am using a telebee gyro, 43 tooth tail upgrade, 3900 esky motor, 9 tooth pinion, DX7 transmitter. Have played with the gyro gain but nothing seems to help. Help!
Jim

choppersrule

Reel109.

This may sound crazy, but make sure that your tail rotor blades aren't to tight. They can cause tail waggle too.

Dave / Choppersrule
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xodarap1

He read the email I sent him yesterday. I don't think his PM feature is enabled here in the forum so you might want to send him an email or give him a call.

funflier

good move, the 65s have more then enough power with 5 volt to handle anything you can throw at it. If you go to the Hitec site they have servos listed and if you look at a hs 50 ..well lets put it this way its even a little weak for a tail servo its is really for small planes like 1/2 A size. It just happens to be one of the smallest servos you can put your hands on. Very fast though but way down on power like 8 oz of torque before the gears go bye bye. Even the stock esky is up around 15+ oz and its actually a pretty fast servo but its got a lot of play in the gears same with the Tower pro. Tpwer pros have that weak link if they hit their end of travel they tend to lock up and stick for a second. If you want really fast and strong in the tail look at the Futaba s3114 its very small but very strong and fast, its weak point is its tiny servo arms. you actually need to drill and bolt (not screw) the ball end thru the arm or that thin arm will allow the ball stud to pull right out, not a good thing when your flying...happend 2 times to me.[]

funflier

your tail wag is in Rate or HH? You do know that your gain is set on the radio NOT on the gyro itself, That gain pot on the gyro is bypassed when you hooked up the signal wire to the rx (yellow wire) to channel 5 (gear channel).

hamid_fireage

Now I know what I have to do.
Im going to buy the item ek1-0562 and to find a bearing which sold with the 43T pulley. I also have two spare belts in the king's pack.LOL.

Thank you funflier for your detailed info. I will post the results

Have fun

funflier

easier just to use 2 of the flanges that come in the ek1-0562 works out to about the same height as the bearing.

reel109

My gyro is set to head holding and yes I know the gain is set on the radio. I first centered the servo on the shaft using rate and when that was working ok went to hh. Will try loosening the tail blades and see if that works.
Jim

hamid_fireage

Do you guys think the HS-55 is any better than the stock 8g esky just for the tail.
I know 65 is far better but far pricy. (the Tx is stock)

Also thinking about RCT-G730 gyro,
What do you suggest?

Thanks

lohchief

Hamid,here's a link to a ton of servos.The HS 55's aren't what you want to run on the tail.Too slow,and way to fragile (the gears),and of course,way to expensive.The HS 50 is a much faster servo,but suffers from the same maladies as the 55.The JR s185 is around 17 bux,and is a good tail servo.There are many others to choose from.
-lohchief

PS: For whatever reason,The link I tried to post twice just won't work.Try to google hobbycity.They have seven pages of servos at very reasonable prices.

Riggerbill

Hi : I have a Futuba T7CHP Radio. Can any one on this forum tell me how to program my HBKing2 into this radio//////? Step by step please as I am new at programing. Thank you much. Riggerbill
I have it programed for scale hovering but I would like the full set up.