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just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

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just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

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Old 12-04-2007, 02:24 AM
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ttoks
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Default just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

i've just ordered my belt CP online, waiting for it to get here, i'm looking for info on proper lipo care, and any general tips for this heli (which will be my first heli), i'm mainly into nitro off road monster trucks and truggies, so anything will help, no matter how trival.

thanks in advance, oh and i've got a flight SIM on the way as well.
Old 12-04-2007, 02:58 AM
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crashinbash
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Default RE: just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

Glad to hear you join the heli club, My first love is nitro trucks too and making the transition isn't the easiest of tasks. Belt cp is great way to start.

weather or not you got a training ball kit won't make too much of a difference. If you have a sim coming and few hours there first before anything else should eliminate the need to use training gear.

The first thing like most all vehicles is to inspect it overall and look for any flaws. Alot of times (more times than not) the heli from the factory comes with loose screws and misjudged servo link lengths. Go over the heli and make sure all the screws are nice and tight... about all the way tight and then half turn out to ease off on the threads. Loctite is always a great idea if you happen to take a screw out and put it back in. Next check to make sure all the links and rods are the lengths they should be. The measurements of the rods is in the manual and the figures are usually almost acurate unless your servo's horns are on in the wrong position. Which leads to the next thing, if all the rods and links are the right length are good check to make sure your servo horns are all at 90 degrees (basically a straight line counter to the servo box) when all the transmitter sticks are dead center. With this helicopter you want only a plus of 1 or 2 degree's when the sticks are at center. Always try to just hover first when training or even just setting up your heli. A wrong gyro setting, pitch curve, or imbalanced blades can mean disaster from the get go. Once you do get it in the air the first thing you will want to do is ensure the tail does not spin when you are not moving the inputs on the transmitter. When in a hover you want the tail to just ever so slowly creep to the right or sit dead center. To do this udjust the gain on the gyro, start it out low and increase it till the tail stops moving. Are we hovering yet? good. Now that you're in a hover you want to get it about head hight and you or another person watch the blades as they spin. Make sure you can't see one blade higher than the other, in other words you'd should be able to see both blades. If you do then the blades are out of track, one is black taped and one is red. you will be able to tell which one is out of track by the color your seeing out of place. Adjust the pitch link on the head until the tracking is on.
Once all this is done there's not too much else than just hovering till you feel comfortable and then start doing some forward flight. The only thing I can recommend with caution is to put a red flag or red tape on your "Idle" switch. Don't touch it until your absolutely sure you can and are ready to do 3d flight. Touching it while learning will almost deffinetly crash your heli.

Lipo batteries are becoming more and more safe and efficiant, but there are still alot of risks and precautions to take.
1. never overcharge your battery, it will damage it, swell, puff or even explode. The maximum charge for 3s is 12.6volts and 2s is 8.4volts (or 4.2volts per cell)
2. never over discharge your battery, if your heli starts to lose speed without inputs then it's time to land. Max discharge should be 3v per cell example (3s lipo max discharge =9v)
3. never charge a battery under 2000mah at more than 1.0 amp, it does take a long time to charge lipo's but it's the only safe way (new lipo's on the market are slowly transforming to higher charge rates)
4. never store your lipo when it's been discharged. Lipo's are not like nimh or nicad in that they don't really lose mah when left to sit. While this is true it is never good to leave a lipo to sit after it has been discharged to 9v-9.5v
5. Monitoring your lipo's is a must when first trying to charge them, especially with the stock esky charger. While this charger is ok there have still been alot of issues where batteries get wrecked because of it. If you notice any smell, overheating or swelling then disconnect it immediatly.
6. While the esky charger is ok, you will want to upgrade in not now then in the future to a lipo battery charger. Having a proper balance charger is really the only way to go for these batteries. Anything less will give you shorter life spans, less mah capacity, and even puffed lipo's. Several good ones are triton, maxamps, thunder tiger, align 4cx, imax b5.

Good luck and hope any of this information helps. Hope to see you in the belt cp forums. If you need any assistance we're all here to help each other

Cheers
Crash
Old 12-04-2007, 05:14 AM
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ttoks
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Default RE: just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

much appreciated[8D]
Old 12-10-2007, 08:24 AM
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martin loo
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Default RE: just boght a belt CP RTF, looking for info on li po's

Hi there.... Me not in the nitro truck scene, but into r/c drifting.

Way to go with the Belt CP, you can`t go wrong with this one as your first bird IMO. I`ve tried Walkera`s( DF 60 ), and it`s all so wrong unless you fully upgrade it till the max.[&o] With the stock electronics with the CP( BL motor & Lipo ), she`ll hovers like a dream with the right inputs, tho not 100% perfect! Just bear in mind that not to fly in a windy environment for your first attempt.

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