pgroom_68

Hey again Tony,

Thanks for the info. I already knew about these 3 types - buy didn't know that, unless you go brushless, these are the only types available ATM

I have Aero-nuts. I think Wheelnut has Xtreme. I know Brendon has AFC. We can compare notes anytime.....

Peter

pgroom_68

[I will save a lot of space and NOT do a quote]

Hey again PB_Lover,

Wow, that is a bit more than a pencil & paper circuit diagram! O I C what you've done - it takes care of many of the problems associated with LiPo charging (well, over-charging anyway). And I see Wheelnut has a similar setup - (can you buy that setup?) - and I think without flash is better if you can take the pics in a well-lit area like you have.

The only question for both of you now is: will newbies, who are the people that mostly need these feedback loops to "save the house" from total destruction, want to or have the knowledge to construct such complex pieces of electrical engineering?

I guess I am infering that someone has to come up with a simple system that can charge LiPos - incorporating heat overload - simply so newbies can buy them from their LHS as a necessity, or even include them in a RTF setup.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The Esky balance chargers are not up to the task - but I don't think just another balance charger is the answer

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

That is the one thing I don't like about LiPo. you can't jump just 1.2v. you have to jump 3.7v and sometimes that is too much. So in the case where the motor can handle say 8.4v and not 11.1, NIMH is better.

stalyoni

i only got the afc motors because they where on ebay and cheap. I dont have a problem with them but i might change the brushes in them soon. Would i get much more power by going brushless ? Peter i got my package from miriale mart and they only sent me one heatsink. Do you have any or putting another order in soon

pgroom_68

Hey again Brendon,

You're having a bad time with suppliers. I ordered after you posted (23/3/09) 6 sets (12 of them) and got them on Thursday. I will send you one extra one for free in the next package I send to you - good enough? Or do you want it sooner?
Re. Brushless L4, Tony is your man for advice on this
The only thing I can predict is that you will get the same or a little more than now - like you did when they were new - with new brushes (unless you get silver brushes - see previous posts if you can't remember - but they don't last as long). ARE YOU WANTING MORE POWER AS A CHALLENGE OR DUE TO ITS LOSS?

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again Wheelnut,
Am I correct to assume you've seen (& bookmarked) this video review of the [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoPl1qay_xQ&feature=related]Esky Hunter[/link] by Dave Herbert [Nightflyyer]? My only comment is that you shouldn't really try to fly in the dark!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The Dauphin also has a blinking BLUE light on the tail - it should be white! Do you know how to go about changing it?

pgroom_68

Hey again Guys,

I just received my FlyCamOne2 (FCO2) this afternoon (640 x 480 resolution). [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/video-camera.htm]Here's a US link[/link] and [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=220383490133]Here's the Aussie one[/link] so you can view the specs. I will firstly try it with my BOL on the weekend, and then try a Dauphin (Supreme Bearing Motors) & Lama4 (Supreme Bearing Motors) - maybe even a L3 (with floats???). I'm incredibly busy @ work this week, and leave for work & return in the dark[].....I hate this time of year!

Peter

Peanut_butter_lover

I guest anybody can built a devise like mine with the drawing and part list
It is not complicated. and does not require a lot of equipment to built or test. multimeter, soldering iron
You must have at least AVREAGE knowledge of electricity and electronic. (Other wise forget it)
I built it for the fun of it. Cost 30 $ Canadian dollar total ( witch is pretty cheap.)
But there is no question that the already built charger top of the line are MUCH BETTER and (also much more expensive).
But I love building thing when I can so for me it was easy.
It is all personal.
Regards
PBL

pgroom_68

Hey again BP_Lover,

Is your Lama4 a 2.4G or FM? Is it standard or have you upgraded it with Xtreme blades, Turbo shaft & metal swashplate?

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again Guys,

I just received the [link=http://www.helidirect.com/notar-520-plastic-fuselage-unpainted-blade-cxcx2-p-4339.hdx]NOTAR fuse[/link] that I ordered a while ago & had forgotten about. Anyone else have one and can give me tips on modding it for the Lama4? Maybe it doesn't need any modding - from what I can tell at first view! (I already have a "Jet Ranger Fuse" for my Big Lama - so I wanted a completely diff'rent look)

I also just got an [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=330314890839]Aztec Zulu 2.4G[/link] It flies great - and uses a lot of Esky spare parts, including the shafts, flybar & blades - but has a diff'rent swashplate design. It has a 1000mAh LiPo & the balance charger has two outputs - one for 2 cell (7.4V) LiPo, and the other for recharging AA's IN THE TRANSMITTER. I have not encountered this before - mainly 'cause I've stuck with Esky. If I do crash the heli and write-off the already badly damaged fuselage, I can put the 4in1 into a Lama (or perhaps I should put it into the new Notar fuse? - now there's an idea?)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

stalyoni

peter you have to much money to spend on helis. I like it, im jealous.

pgroom_68

Problem with message - sorry for double-post

pgroom_68

Hey again Brendon,

Someone has to keep the world economy going!

Peter

cjennjr

Sorry it took so long to reply - I just replaced my inner shaft (which was wobbly), replaced flybar, and tried again. It flies better, but it still has a little "sway" when I'm flying - like it's riding a wave or something. I also adjusted the proportional and decreased my gain, and it's holding pretty well - just the swaying which is irritating. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

stalyoni

give the linkages at the top of the flightbar a turn so the flightbar sits level when you hold it. You could also try given the flighbar a slight straightening. Other then that you could try and half turn on the right (if looking at it from the back) servo arm.

pgroom_68

Hey again cjennjr,

I thought I'd save a bit of room and NOT quote all that stuff again.

Would you describe the "swaying" as a harmonic which occurs at a regular time every few milliseconds whether or not you are moving the cyclic? If so, it sounds like your outer shaft has a bend in it, or it could just be your blade-tracking (I trust you know how to adjust the top link).
To check outer shaft runs true, HOLD heli at arms length and CAREFULLY spin up to take-off rpm looking down from above [you may have to tilt heli]
If it is still difficult to tell whether it is vibrating due to a bend, try removing the inner shaft before doing all this again. It won't fly this way, but you can more easily see the outer shaft vibrating
The easiest thing to do is to buy another outer shaft (which comes with its gear already attached) and install. This will make your heli run true again.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

jnail

Peter, couldn't figure out how to quote from one thread to another, but this is where I belong! I saw the post on the deal extreme blades and had to answer. The ones that are marked as 2400rpm max are pretty darn good for the price, especially if you shred blades like I do. The other black ones they sell are junk.
My heli has issues right now, I dinged up a tooth on the outer shaft gear. It still flies, but it makes a clickling sound, and spins more than usual. So I am awaiting new gears. I cut slots in the side of the stock fuselage so I can use the long servo horns. What a difference! I had to move my flybar weights back out to the end because it was TOO FAST for indoor flight! That is onother reason why I have broken some blades lately. I have been getting a little crazy with it, sending towards the wall at a high rate of speed, and trying to spin it back the other way without crashing! I can do it most of the time, but sometimes it stalls. I can't wait to get back outside with the mods, but we just got more snow, I can't imagine that snow is good for electronics.

stalyoni

just keep practicing jnail. I live in a one bed room unit mate and fly my heli inside all the time. Its very rare I smash it now. It just takes practice mate. I used to fly mine threw two batteries every night. I also have a few simulators on the computer, which helps so much. Im training and saving for a bigger heli one day. I also have a custom flightbar and yes its very twitchy but you get to know your limits. If I know im going to crash or put it into an object then i quickly rotate it so the tail goes in and not the nose and immediately cut throttle.

All i can say about blades is that Peter was right all along, nothing is better then the EXTREME blades. The airy blades are good but they split down the middle.

I have mostly been flying outside these days as my heli is up for the task. I will try and get a video when i can drag a mate down to the park or maybe even peter with his Big Lama and flycam one. I was going to go this morning (saturday morning ritual now) but its slightly raining and theres to much wind and its horrible outside.

All i can say jnail is to invest in a flight sim for your computer (i assume you have one as your posting on this site from one). It has helped me so much in my learning curve of flying. I only wish I could fly like Bobby Watts (hes my hero, hahahahaha). The Zsabo guys are good but i like Bobby watts better.

Anyways here's my old video of me flying inside to show you that it can be done with a little practice and patience

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqXwTuJvU3Q[/youtube]

enjoy your flying guys and keep those beautiful birds in the skies

pgroom_68

Hey again Jeff,

I read & responded to your post on the L3 thread OK
To post a link to another thread: Open the place you want to link to in another tab or window & in the bottom right corner of this target post is a "post #: " - click on this and highlight the pop-up box URL minus the http:// part. Right click & copy it to clipboard. Close window.
Return to unfinished post. Go where you want to insert and hyper"link" in the usual way (click "link", right-click in second gap and paste) giving the URL a custom name (in the third gap).... - easy!
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8644019]Jnail's Lama3 thread posting[/link]

I agree with Brendons summary of blades - the Xtreme ones are the best, but I have two sets of the DX ones that have been shipped to be already - to back up the set I am already running on my pod & boom L4 - and have been running on that heli for six months (from when it had a silver fuselage)

cjennjr

To pgroom 68: Yes, it's like a "harmonic" swing going back and forth, even when I'm not touching the cyclic controls! As I increase throttle, the swaying gets more erratic. As indicated earlier, I replaced the inner shaft and the flybar, hoping that would solve the problem. I may have to replace the outer shaft too, I guess. I'll check per your instructions and see what happens. Also, I get a ticking sound from the motors/gears. I thought that was normal. As always, your recommendations are appreciated.

pgroom_68

Hey again cjennjr,

It really does sound like your outer shaft needs replacing. The ticking sound is probably a tooth missing from its gear due to an early-on crash & not dropping the throttle instantly, and the swinging is what we refer to as TBE (Toilet-Bowl Effect). It has manifested itself in a pendulum-like movement in your case.
TBE may be "tuned" out by a number of adjustments/replacements. The easiest adjustment to start with is the top link between flybar and blade grips that I just posted on another thread. Here's a link to [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8646114]Top link adjustment[/link].
If that fixes it great, but usually it is a combination of cures - next try replacing outer shaft (that will cure ticking), AND re-adjusting top link while putting tape on the lighter upper blade (to statically balance blades).
When you installed a new inner shaft, did you also replace the gear at the base? (main gear A)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

cjennjr

OK, I did the test and found out that something is wrong with the main shaft unit. Although it is not bent ( I upgraded to the metal head), the bottom blades track for a second, then not track, then track again, etc. I think that's why I have the harmonic sway back and forth. What would make it do that? If I have to, I'll purchase the main shaft and gear, but don't want to if I don't have to. Additionally, went back to stock swashplate - the metal just didn't fit right.

cjennjr

pgroom 68: I posted before I saw your last communicade. I went ahead and ordered another shaft and gear unit. I'll balance my bottom blades and see if that helps also. Thanks for your inputs - I see you are from "The Land Down Under." Thanks again!!!

stalyoni

i am also from the land down under so


GDDAY MATE, THROW ANOTHER SNAG ON THE BBQ AND GO GRAB US A TINNIE EH LOVE

jnail

I can fly the thing pretty good now, my problems come when I try crazy stuff, mostly because it is fun! I do have the fms simulator, but I don't care for it much, you are lacking a lot of things on there, like change in the sound of the motor when you move the throttle. Plus the physics don't seem to be the same. Also depth pereption and orientation aren't great, especially if you fly up high enough where you can't see the ground. I really prefer to fly the real thing, even if I do smash stuff once in awhile.

I like the video, nice commentaries.

I also would like to get a more serious heli eventually. But not sure if I want to get a fixed pitch, or jump right to something like the honey bee king 3 or similar. From what I can tell on the FP's, they pretty much do what the coaxials do, but not as easily, If I am going to struggle, I may as well be able to loop the thing too right?