Esky Helicopters Discuss the line of Esky electric helis in here including the Honey Bee, Lama, Belt CP, etc

Honey Bee FP

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Old 09-13-2009, 10:17 PM
  #51  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Peter,
Mine is an FM

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

Have you bought new crystals or just installed others? Also, did you try the proper reseating (especially for the Tx) of your crystals? I am thinking that you have two minor problems and they are combining to give you a headache[sm=confused_smile.gif]

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. When are your new tail motor(s) due??
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:22 PM
  #52  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

pgroom_68:
I thought you might be refering to all of us.
Just askthe wife of a heli nut.

Tinkman:
I do not know if it really makes a differance, but I was always told to replace both crystals at the same time.

Ron Sr
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:01 PM
  #53  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

Peter,
  I haven't had to opportunity to try replaceing the crystals yet, but I think I'll be able to tomorrow. I'm starting to think for sure that the gyro portion of the 4-1 has stopped working, but I'll keep trying the other ideas.
  My tail motor should be here either tomorrow or Tuesday.
  I took some measurements on the cnc rotor head assembly today and found that they are actually too close togeather by about .010". I drew up a solid model and plan to prototype a set of push rods tomorrow or the next day. I'll let you know how they work. If that doesn't cut it I'll try shimming the blade grips so I can continue to use the stock pushrods.

Ron Sr.,
  Yes, I plan to borrow a friend's set and try them on my bird. Who knows, maybe that'll fix it.
  Tinkman
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:15 PM
  #54  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Peter,
I haven't had to opportunity to try replaceing the crystals yet, but I think I'll be able to tomorrow. I'm starting to think for sure that the gyro portion of the 4-1 has stopped working, but I'll keep trying the other ideas.
My tail motor should be here either tomorrow or Tuesday.
I took some measurements on the cnc rotor head assembly today and found that they are actually too close togeather by about .010''. I drew up a solid model and plan to prototype a set of push rods tomorrow or the next day. I'll let you know how they work. If that doesn't cut it I'll try shimming the blade grips so I can continue to use the stock pushrods.

Ron Sr.,
Yes, I plan to borrow a friend's set and try them on my bird. Who knows, maybe that'll fix it.
Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

Great! BTW, did you email Xtreme Productions asking them about the pushrod and its "shortness" and what other fliers have found. Those products have been available for a number of years I think. [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=110_186&sort=20a&alpha_filter_id=0]Here's a link[/link] - "contact us" is top middle of screen.

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
Yes, always change out the crystals in matched pairs - that is how you buy them also....
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:20 PM
  #55  
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Hey Peter,
  Well my problem turned out to be the 4-1. I guess the gyro portion had just quit working like I suspected. At least I'm back in the air!
I installed the CNC rotor assembly with the new ring like push rods I prototyped. They work great. I ended up having to make them .020" longer than stock for the rotor to move freely. Now I have another question that maybe you can help me with. When the heli is in flight I get a wobble that I was starting to get before, but which is really bad now. Any idea what would cause a wobble? The best way I can describe it is that it's like how a top acts when it's starting to slow down. Except this is pretty rapid. I figure it has something to do with a balance problem, or the flybars. I don't know which. Any help would be appreciated.
  I'll upload a picture of my new pushrods as soon as I get a chance.

Tinkman
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:40 AM
  #56  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Peter,
Well my problem turned out to be the 4-1. I guess the gyro portion had just quit working like I suspected. At least I'm back in the air!
I installed the CNC rotor assembly with the new ring like push rods I prototyped. They work great. I ended up having to make them .020'' longer than stock for the rotor to move freely. Now I have another question that maybe you can help me with. When the heli is in flight I get a wobble that I was starting to get before, but which is really bad now. Any idea what would cause a wobble? The best way I can describe it is that it's like how a top acts when it's starting to slow down. Except this is pretty rapid. I figure it has something to do with a balance problem, or the flybars. I don't know which. Any help would be appreciated.
I'll upload a picture of my new pushrods as soon as I get a chance.

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

Glad you solved your prob. Any chance of a short video of your "wobble" uploaded to youtube with a link posted in this thread?
[sm=50_50.gif]I can only guess that it is a possible bent main axis (shaft) or as you say, it could be uneven flybar length/paddle distance - but most probably it is just a blade balance problem. Remove your blades and weigh them separately (accurately) - they should be within +/- 0.1g - while you have the blades off screw them together via the holes with a long screw & nut and 'balance them' from a couple of your favourite tinnies. The lighter one is obvious then, and can have tape "added to" 'till they sit horizontal. The best tape I found is electrical tape cut into short lengths stuck on the underside in the middle of the lighter blade.

Here's [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9076284]a link[/link] to the pic that Disney1 posted earlier. He removed the whole head (including blade grips) and is balancing them atop glasses of his fav brew by the balljoints - another great idea.....

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:59 PM
  #57  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

Hey Peter,
  I don't think it's a bent main axis. I just put the new CNC one on.  I balanced the main blades today and it helpped a bit. I'm beginning to think it may be related to the cnc blade grips. I'm going to switch to stock with a new set of blades and see what happens. After that I'll weigh and measure the flybar. It's a shame. because since I put the new blade grips on, the main rotor tracks much nicer than before. Maybe that's what brought out the wobble problem. We'll see. I'll nail down the problem sooner or later.
  In the mean time, here's a shot of the prototyped ring-like push rods. (can we please call them Dog Bones? This is rediculous!)
Anyway, here is a shot of the dog bone...

Tinkman

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Old 09-17-2009, 04:31 AM
  #58  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Peter,
I don't think it's a bent main axis. I just put the new CNC one on. I balanced the main blades today and it helpped a bit. I'm beginning to think it may be related to the cnc blade grips. I'm going to switch to stock with a new set of blades and see what happens. After that I'll weigh and measure the flybar. It's a shame. because since I put the new blade grips on, the main rotor tracks much nicer than before. Maybe that's what brought out the wobble problem. We'll see. I'll nail down the problem sooner or later.
In the mean time, here's a shot of the prototyped ring-like push rods. (can we please call them Dog Bones? This is rediculous!)
Hey again Tinkman,

Nice dogbones! - maybe you should be selling them to Xtreme Productions for use with their Metal Upgrades? The next possibility to eliminate is your flybar/paddles. What angle (xº) do you run your paddles at? Do you know how to adjust the length of the flybar that protudes from the head on each side? Does the CNC head even have the two submerged grub screws?

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:06 AM
  #59  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

original: Stalyoni
...The swashplate on this heli is very flimsy I am definitely going to order the alum parts for this heli. My blades are not tracking well and when it takes off its leaning over to the right. I have already bent the stock flybar and chipped one of the paddles. I also noticed that when you throttle up the front servo makes the swashplate move forward as you give it more throttle. I have been trying to adjust the pitch knob on it to see if it will make it more stable with no much luck.
I sighted the swashplate and made sure it was level and made adjustments with the pitch and trims but when i take off it wants to lean over and go backwards. I think i need to watch nutcaze's (marc) videos on you tube again.
As for those GE Power lipos [that I bought off ebay] they fit in, but i find the battery belt a waist of time so I will try and get some more rubber bands to hold it in. It seems a little heavier then the stock one. But i dont mind putting a little more weight in this heli as I want it to fly more stable.
I only had one sucessful take off and flight so far. This TX is the same as the king 3 one but only 2.4ghz. They had actually reversed some of the switches on it so when i went to go forward the heli went back and i crashed. The last crash was into my foot and i got cut and the rotor head popped off a little. I really want to know how to setup the swash one this one. It frustrating me again like the king 3.
Hey again Brendon,

Which "Honeybee owners thread" is Gary (GTX_slotcar) on that can help us out?
The elevator reverse switch was the other way on my Tx out of the box also - so i just flicked it with a pencil[sm=what_smile.gif] NEVER - I SAY IT AGAIN, NEVER EVER reverse the "THR" switch on the front face of Tx

The bolded part (quoted from your post) above is not supposed to happen, so we will have to go back to smaller steps to set up this bird.

PART 1

A single-rotor bird is more difficult to set-up than a coaxial - but not as time consuming as a CP!!
Run-in your motors initially (this will increase the power later on[sm=wink_smile.gif]) by:
SLOWLY spin up your bird - just TWO clicks of the throttle - the main blades & tail will start to spin around the same time. Leave the throttle in that position for 5 minutes (you may want to do something else). Return and increase throttle TWO more clicks and leave the room for a second 5 minutes. Return and raise the throttle by another 4 clicks - your bird should start to vibrate a little now - slide the rudder trim to hold the tail as still as poss pointing at you. Keep it like that for another 5 minutes. One more increase of the throttle - I won't tell you how many clicks 'cause it will depend on your bird - but only until it is light on the skids - keep the throttle at that position for another 5 minutes (the last one)....
Be thankful that you didn't have to unscrew your motor and dip it into a glass of clean water - [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVxf_6vFB1o]a water run-in[/link][sm=tongue_smile.gif]

Now that is done - we can proceed with set-up. When you are spinning up does that tail motor go at different speeds and cut out altogether sometimes?
With the main motor DISCONNECTED - the bottom motor plug slide straight out of 4in1 (see first pic) - move the cyclic control. For mode2 this is the right stick. When stick is pushed level left - the aileron servo on the port side will go down to the bottom pulling the swashplate to full left tilt! When stick is pushed level right - the aileron servo on the port side will travel up to its full top pushing the swashplate to full right tilt! Now the elevator servo. When the cyclic stick is moved up the swashplate tilts forwards - the elevator (in front of the main axis) moves down pulling the swashplate tilt to the front. And lastly, when the cyclic stick is moved down the elevator servo moves up pushing the swashplate tilt towards the rear.
When let self-center the Tx springs pull the sticks back to the neutral position - moving the swashplate level again via the control arms - which can be adjusted by means of a thread along part of their length. If your swashplate is not level your bird will not hover even close to one place! To adjust the control arms - pop off the balljoint using balljoint pliers, long-nose pliers, or your fingernail. To lengthen - twist CCW - to shorten - twist CW (a half-twist or a full-twist) and pop the balljoint back on. REPEAT UNTIL YOUR SWASHPLATE LOOKS LEVEL.
Here is a good place to bring up "Center of Gravity" (CG). For such a light helicopter the CG is very important. It can be quickly and affectively adjusted by using the position of your lipo. Place the flybar at 90º to the fuselage (see second pic), and balance your bird here - securing the lipo more forward if the canopy is lighter, or move and secure the lipo more towards the tail if this is the light-weight end......
Now the left stick - rudder (or tail motor as some fliers call it). Give yourself some room to move and for God's sake - BE CAREFUL OF SPINNING TAIL MOTOR BLADES........Give the throttle FOUR clicks up. When the rudder stick is moved towards the left - the tail motor speeds up - swinging the NOSE to the left, and when the rudder stick is moved towards the right - the tail motor slows - having less affect - allowing the torque of the main rotors (on this FP they spin CW) to turn the helicopter so the NOSE of the helicopter moves towards the right.
Clear so far?[sm=72_72.gif] Good.

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. Since you know what you are doing with the Tx, now is a good time to take the back off it and cover the rachet-action with fuel pipe
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:43 PM
  #60  
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Hey Peter,
  Submerged Grub Screws? That must be Australian for set screw. Anyway, yes the CNC flybar control has them. I set my flybar paddles at 0 deg. I must have ballanced them a dozen times in the last week. Every time I switch the dogbones I have to remove the weights and paddles from both sides.

  Well, the problem was the CNC blade grip. I removed it and re-installed the stock blade grip and it's as good as new. The section where the two bearings snap into the CNC blade grip is much looser than the stock setup. I have a feeling that during flight the blade grip partially slips loose from the bearings and is relying on the dogbones to keep the main rotor from flying off. I'll have to work on a fix for that.

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Old 09-17-2009, 08:37 PM
  #61  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Peter,
Submerged Grub Screws? That must be Australian for set screw. Anyway, yes the CNC flybar control has them. I set my flybar paddles at 0 deg. I must have ballanced them a dozen times in the last week. Every time I switch the dogbones I have to remove the weights and paddles from both sides.

Well, the problem was the CNC blade grip. I removed it and re-installed the stock blade grip and it's as good as new. The section where the two bearings snap into the CNC blade grip is much looser than the stock setup. I have a feeling that during flight the blade grip partially slips loose from the bearings and is relying on the dogbones to keep the main rotor from flying off. I'll have to work on a fix for that.

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

Yip. Exactly correct! Our grub screw in your language means set screw (but in other parts of the US they refer to them as grub screws also[sm=confused.gif]) So your flybar is level - good. Now tell me, have you heard that the paddles only steer and the blades provide the lift (or lack thereof when losing altitude)?? If you have then why do some people recommend that newbies fly with a positive pitch to their paddles? Both paddles supposedly have up to 5º pitch added for newbies..... More confusion.

DO YOU THINK IT IS WORTH ME BUYING THE CNC BLADE GRIPS/HEAD FOR MY HONEYBEE FPV2 THEN? IT SOUNDS LIKE THEY ARE A PAIN........![:@]

Good luck with a fix.
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:41 PM
  #62  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

The reason to add the pitch top the paddles, is to add stability to the heli.
The added resistance slows the action, reaction of the flybar.
The drawback is that the hili dose not respobd as quickly.
For a Newbi this gives him a chance to calm down and not overcorrect as much.
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:55 PM
  #63  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Disney1
The reason to add the pitch top the paddles, is to add stability to the heli.
The added resistance slows the action, reaction of the flybar.
The drawback is that the hili dose not respobd as quickly.
For a Newbi this gives him a chance to calm down and not overcorrect as much.
Thanks Disney1,

I have SuperCF flybar and superpaddles ready to go when I get used to this bird, 'cause I find that I need QUICKER reactions from my bird now - but I know what you mean. It stops newbies "over-correcting" by increasing the lag time - did I get this correct?

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:57 PM
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

Absolutly correct.

Just wish the same thing worked on my Belt CPv1 when I was crashing as a newbie with it.
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

Hey Guys,
  As a total newbee, i found that the delay in response was a problem. I needed to know as soon as I made a cyclic move because when I tried to compensate, it took that much longer to see the result.  In fact, the first thing I did was move the flybar weights in as far as I could. That way I could see imediately when I was making a mistake. 

  Peter, Yep, I did understand that the flybars only acted as "Power Steering"  to get the main rotors to react to the constantly changing angle of attack. I have never added AOT to the flybars. I didn't know it was a common practice to add 5 deg. For that matter I never used the training gear  I bought either. To me it seemed that anything that would slow down the reaction of the heli to my inputs would be a detriment. I figured that I need to know ASAP when I make a bad move.
  Also, about the CNC blade grips, I would not recommend them. They may work good for others, but they didn't for me. To be fair, they seemed to work well with every Extreme component except for the Central Hub. Once I added that I started having problems. Honestly though, even though the blade grips worked well with the stock central hub, I always thought they seemed a bit loose. In thinking back, that may be why they added the extra space between the flybar control and the rotor head; to help tighten the connection to the rotor bearings. Who knows? In my opinion, the return on investiment is better spent on the Central Hub. It's a very nicely fabricated unit and helps the overall performance of the heli more than the blade grips do.

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Old 09-17-2009, 11:01 PM
  #66  
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Guys,
As a total newbee, i found that the delay in response was a problem. I needed to know as soon as I made a cyclic move because when I tried to compensate, it took that much longer to see the result. In fact, the first thing I did was move the flybar weights in as far as I could. That way I could see imediately when I was making a mistake.

Peter, Yep, I did understand that the flybars only acted as ''Power Steering'' to get the main rotors to react to the constantly changing angle of attack. I have never added AOT to the flybars. I didn't know it was a common practice to add 5 deg. For that matter I never used the training gear I bought either. To me it seemed that anything that would slow down the reaction of the heli to my inputs would be a detriment. I figured that I need to know ASAP when I make a bad move.
Also, about the CNC blade grips, I would not recommend them. They may work good for others, but they didn't for me. To be fair, they seemed to work well with every Extreme component except for the Central Hub. Once I added that I started having problems. Honestly though, even though the blade grips worked well with the stock central hub, I always thought they seemed a bit loose. In thinking back, that may be why they added the extra space between the flybar control and the rotor head; to help tighten the connection to the rotor bearings. Who knows? In my opinion, the return on investiment is better spent on the Central Hub. It's a very nicely fabricated unit and helps the overall performance of the heli more than the blade grips do.

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

If you mean [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_186&products_id=2641]this[/link] - then yea, I got one - but THE MAIN SHAFT IS TOO SHORT FOR USE ON THE HONEYBEE FPv2!
To be fair to Miracle-mart.com, they did have this upgrade available under "Honeybee FP upgrades" and NOT "Honeybee FP v2 upgrades" - but I have got it to install in my second Walkera DF#4 which is down at the moment....

I found that running [link=http://super-skids.com/]SuperCF Flybar & Super Paddles[/link] decreases the lag also - they make your Tx inputs virtually instantaneous - well, for a helicopter that is not "3D" anyway.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
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Old 09-18-2009, 04:32 PM
  #67  
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Hey Peter,
  So what's the thing with the 6 LEDs on it in the last picture?

Nice Heli by the way...

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Old 09-18-2009, 06:43 PM
  #68  
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ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Peter,
So what's the thing with the 6 LEDs on it in the last picture?

Nice Heli by the way...

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

[link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lipo-battery-Low-voltage-buzzer-alarm-7-4v-to-11-1v-RC_W0QQitemZ170377402313QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_C ontrol_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ab48d7c9&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177]Lipo Alarm[/link] - Wouldn't fly without one!

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
P.S. The audible alarm which sounds at the very end (before the amps end and you crash into the ground) is NOT very loud at all but I fly over myself and can SEE the LEDs clearly....[sm=wink_smile.gif]
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:50 PM
  #69  
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...I also have [link=https://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?products_id=695]Xtreme 380 motor[/link], [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_230&products_id=2139] with 8º pitch blades[/link], and [link=http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_230&products_id=3037]Direct Drive Tail Pack[/link] ready to go - for when something shows signs of problems!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:39 PM
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Default RE: Honey Bee FP

I like these Low Volt alarms better, Definatly louder
https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...roducts_id=943
https://www.ushobbysupply.com/produc...roducts_id=942

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Old 09-18-2009, 09:51 PM
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Hey Guys,
  Well, my tail motor went out today ( or started to). I started noticing that the heli wanted to turn left more and more, and when I tried to compensate to the right it put a serious drag on the main rotor, causing me to loose altitude. No amount of throttle would compensate. I replaced the tial motor tonight and all is well with the world!
  Time for a direct drive!

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Old 09-18-2009, 09:53 PM
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BTW.
  I like the idea of the alarm instead of guessing when to quit flying. I might have to get one of those.

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Old 09-19-2009, 12:47 AM
  #73  
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ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hey Guys,
Well, my tail motor went out today ( or started to). I started noticing that the heli wanted to turn left more and more, and when I tried to compensate to the right it put a serious drag on the main rotor, causing me to loose altitude. No amount of throttle would compensate. I replaced the tial motor tonight and all is well with the world!
Time for a direct drive!

Tinkman
Hey again Tinkman,

Nice pick-up! Those exact symptoms happened to my second tail motor before I went to my third!

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:39 AM
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Hey again Brendon,

PART 2

...that was the theory - now the practical!

[Disclaimer: The author (me) takes no responsibility for any actions or damage resulting from, but not limited to, the following of these procedures....
Put another way - YOU do these things at your own risk!]


Your bird is a 2.4G Honeybee FP (version 2) and your Tx is mode2 ?? - just so we are clear!

Your bird should be set up well now - swashplate level, flybar straight, paddles with about 3º pitch - all the servos going in the correct direction and with full amount of throw - training gear OFF....

Procedures:
1. Charge up your lipos properly - see manufacturers instruction booklet re. Charging the Li-Po Battery.
2. Find a suitable open space with NO wind - this can be tricky in some locations (such as mine). No onlookers, trees to hit, hedges to trim, concrete to fall on etc - it is best to fly in an open-spaced room such as a Basketball Arena for a few lipos or at least until you have completed this maiden flight.
3. Place the lipo in the correct area and slip on rubber-bands (I found the strap supplied insuffient).
4. Place the canopy back on and secure with the CarbonFibre rod passing through the two grommets.
5. Adjust the CG by holding the heli in front of you by its flybar (at 90º to the fuselage) look at the skids to see if they are horizontal, and move the lipo towards the light end of your bird! Secure tightly with rubber bands. Recheck.
6. Switch on the Tx and wait until the single red LED has stopped its binding "flashing" and is solid again. Also Check the "LED Voltage Indicator" for sufficient AA battery life: WHEN displaying only red land immediately and change the AAs out!
7. Ensure that the throttle trim is down to its lowest position - and all the other trims are centered.
8. Connect the lipo - NOT moving helis position until the 4in1 light shows solid green.
9. Place your heli on your launching area and straighten out blades ready to go....
(I am told that points 6 and 8 CAN now be freely interchanged - but this order became habit from my FM flying days and is good procedure anyway!)
10. Pinch the throttle (on your left stick) with thumb & first finger (and place your right-hand thumb on top of right stick) & raise the throttle smoothly a little (as an indication I would say ¼-throttle) 'till you bird becomes light on its skids.
11. Raise the throttle a little more and your bird takes flight - swinging to the left and up (only take it to around a 3-foot altitude at first). All birds with a tail rotor take off up and to the left - it can't be trimmed out. When you get more experienced, a little right aileron given at the correct moment makes it negligible - and after a while of flying you this stick input without even thinking about it.
12. So you are hovering - but your helicopter wants to "fall off this huge exercise ball" and crash hard into mother earth. Pulse the cyclic stick inputting swashplate tilts to counter its movement - and pulse rudder inputs to keep the tail pointing at you at the same time!
SHOW IT WHOSE BOSS - but at the same time react to its moments [as you get better at this balancing act, it becomes "second nature" and then boring and you want to fly forwards I assure you!]
13. When YOU want to land lower the throttle ever so gently and keep pulsing the other inputs until your bird has landed
14. Power down and unplug lipo - then switch off Tx
Look at your hands - if they are not shaking on your maiden flight - there is something wrong with you
15. Remove canopy & lipo for charging before your next flight.

...Hope this helps

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. This is not the only way to fly - but it is the method that I have used for years with FP helicopters.
UPDATE: The first pic below shows what I means by "its flybar (at 90º to the fuselage)", and second which Tx I got with my Honeybee FPv2
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:48 PM
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Hey Guys,
  I have another question for you. As I get more adept at controlling my Honey Bee, I notice more and more little quirks about how it handles. This may be because of the low cost of it's construction or something I've done. I don't know.
  I got the wobbling stopped and the heli tuned fairly well. I can hover in a fairly small spot now without too much trouble, but now I'm noticing glitchy little moves with the throttle and tail rotor. When I use my 800 LiPo, a lighter load, I notice that the torque curve jumps suddenly at around half throttle. As I spool up and take off it's ok, but as I move through 2 or so feet above the ground the main motor suddenly accelerates and the heli climbs uncontrolably till I throttle back, where it suddenly slows down and wants to hit the ground. When I use my 1300 LiPo the difference isn't as noticable, I assume because of the added load I'm using a different area of the throttle, but I have tail rotor twitching.
  Are these just symptoms of a brushed system, or a worn main motor? I took my main rotor off and spooled up the heli to see if I could tell where the jump in RPM was. Under no load it was undetectable, but I did notice my servos start to jitter from around 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Again, is this the nature of a brushed system or is there something wong?

Thanks in advance for any advise,
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