RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Buy or make a set of traing gear if you have not already done so and save big $$ on things like blades etc. I have broke most of my 30+ or so blades hitting lawn furniture and planters compared to crashing into the ground.
Might look at some Extreme plastic blades or any plastic blades for that matter as they usually take scuffing on the ground better the wooden ones that tend to break.
Buy parts from China or Hong Kong as they are cheaper even with shipping.
Blades are about 20-25$ for a set of 5 including shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-EsKy-Honey-Be...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-pairs-main-bla...QQcmdZViewItem

Parts that fit and are either like or better quality or both..
"0" rings Elfite # EFLH 1158 2$ for a set of 4. My local LHS carries either the Esky parts or the Eflite but not both if they are interchangeable
Main gear Eflite # EFLH1451 w/o clutch 4$ runs truer then the stock and not as flimsy. Press your old clutch out and into the new gear.
Flybar Trex #HS1184T 220MM and a tad thicker and much much harder. 3-4$ for 2 of them. longer flybar means more stabilty (or heavier weights)
Buy feathering shafts in bulk (bag of 4 ) and be careful how you handle them same with mainshafts (many mainshafts are shipped bent anyway) you can actually bend a feathering shaft or mainshaft by simply dropping it on the ground. A slightly bent main shaft can actually be pretty much strightend by hand or atleast well enough to be reused in many cases as they are not hardened very well, it is more like a case hardening. Feathering shafts must be stright and I do not roll them on a piece of glass as advised I put them on the "Stone" the stone does not lie and it is flat, glass is not flat. Next best is a machinists quality strightedge for checking them or a mainshaft.
Try to get a big ESC like 35-40 amp and NOT from Esky, it will handle the amps of anything you put in it and you can't go wrong, go for Hobbywing Dynam or Waypoint or just about anything but Esky or Eflite (both use many of the same crappy parts).
The Esky 3800 and 3900 motors are the exception. low cost durable and easy on batteries.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Just my opinion, but I would not go with the high kv motors, they are typically very low on wattage outputs and therefore their torque output is very low. Torque and Horsepower (if you will) are far more important than headspeed especially when learning. I would recommend something along the lines of the Tonix/Danlion 3200-3500 kv motors, they are excellent quality and the power is definitely there and for what they are they are very reasonably priced. Do not let anybody tell you to go small as a beginner, that will make learning tough since your bird will not perform as it should, always go with more power than needed and you will work alot less at controlling your helicopter. The kv rating is simply the ability of the motor to turn a given rpm at a given voltage amount, the thing you want to look at is the wattage output and amperage draw. On the esc, it is probably the most important part of the powertrain components, you can get away with cheap on the motor if you run a good enough esc but you cannot go the other way. Look at the Hobbywing 30a esc W/ ubec (the ubec part is important, do not get the built in version), or really the 40a esc from H-wing. Also look at the Waypoint, this is an awesome esc and it is not much pricier than the generic chinese bulk stuff, do not sacrifice quality here.
On the battery, I don't know who told you that but it is not correct. You can fly a 10c battery with a 40a esc and it will fly fine, it may not have the power output that a 25c has but it will still fly and give you decent times none the less. I personally have gone to only flying the Outrage batteries and you will find most people that fly them are the same way, there as many choices of batteries as there are helis but I like the 50% guaranteed replacement of the Outrage batteries (even if you crash them) and they are top notch in quality and warranty service to match (no waiting a month for warranty cause you had to send back to china, whatever you saved you will spend on shipping). Whatever you do, don't fall into this group that feels they need to throw a 2200 battery that weighs far too much to run on a king just to get an extra 2 minutes of flight times, stay with something under 110 grams so you do not stress the components of the helicopter, weight is a factor and an important one. I get a solid 8 minutes from a Tonic 3300 with 40a H-wing and a 1300 25c outrage and as a beginner 8 minutes is a long time to keep your bird airborn, lol. If you need any advice or want any information on any set-ups feel free to call me pretty much anytime, my number is on my website and I make myself available as much as possible especially for beginners. I also set-up a crash kit that contains the essential parts like main gear and shaft and f-shafts and such so you do not have to parts farm up front. I will be glad to walk you through an easy proper set-up if you like also, it really is not difficult to do properly.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Sorry dude, I did not realize I was logged in under my sons log-in, that last reply from sandrat was from me (Rusty)

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Rusty,

By 40a H-wing, did you mean HOBBYWING Pentium - 40A ESC ? are those motors in my list above which i have ordered are no good ? Please comment on the items i have listed.
Also can you tell me what you include in the crash kit and how much will it cost to ship it to Cyprus ?

Forgot to ask, what are the best (fastest and torqiest) servos i can use on king 2 ?

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Hey buddy, Yes I mean the Hobbywing pentiums, those and the waypoint are the best you can get for the cash. Plus the Waypoint will run 14.8v for later applications. Consider this, when you buy a motor and esc, or servos or gyro, buy it with more than just the king in mind so you can use it when and if you decide to upgrade to a bigger or just different bird. I run the scorpion systems and for maybe $20 bucks more than you will spend on the other stuff you get a 3 year warranty and a system that will power a 450 as well as it does the kings so having this system means I can buy arf kits instead of rtf kits and now I am saving money, lol. Plus the better systems like the H-wing, waypoints, scorpions perform much better and their quality gives them much longer lifespans than the lesser stuff like esky, this means better flight times and cooler temps so batteries last longer. All the way around you are better off to spend a few bucks extra and buy something worth its salt than to go cheap and get frustrated buggering around with a bunch of half rate stuff to save what could be argued as a small amount of cash in the grand scheme of things.


Crash kit includes:
1 set stock woods
1 set HDX 288mm frp main blades (best on market imo)
1 microheli f-shaft
1 stock main gear
1 stock main shaft
1 stock flybar
1 stock boom
1 belt
Kit runs $49.95 but I am currently out of main shafts until tuesday (people wreckin). Ships anywhere in the cont US for $4.60. The blades by HDX and the shaft by microheli are just simply something I think everyone should be running and until they try them they don't know what they are missing. I run my blades a little looser than most but have not replaced a set of blades or f-shafts on a mighty long time, not from the usual scuffs or bumps.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Rusty !

What about Scorpion HK-2221-8 (45A) 3595 RPM / Volt or HK-2221-6 (52A) 4400 RPM / Volt ? OMFG I thing there is no better than this, and they dont cost much, plus 2 years factory guarantee.

They also have 45A and 55A ESC.

**** ! if i buy this, What to do with the 3 motors i already have (on the way) ? ? ? ? ?

Aaaaa ?

what you think ?

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Ohh didnt see your post.

This is regarding the Scorpions :) lol


BTW ! are you runing a 45 or 55 A Scorpions ?

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Dude, the scorpion rocks, I run the 3595kv in two sharks I have cause they are really heavy 450's and they do not suffer the weight even slightly. I run the 45a (scorpion), look at the burst strength on that esc and you will see why you do not need more, not on a bird as light as the king. The only thing about the scorp's is they like their own esc's and seem to perfrom better with the scorp esc's, they do really good with the H-wing 40 and the phoenix 45's, I have not run one on the waypoint so I cannot say there but I would bet the way the waypoint operates it would do fine. Stay away from the 4400 unless you are running a falcon or similar bird taht requires massive headspeeds to perfrom proper. That is what I was saying about the money, they are not that much more money for their superiority on the market, I really like the 10V 3000, it is the best choice for the kings and most 450's, or maybe the 12V 2850kv and just gear it up a little, either way you will love that set-up. I always throw in the billet motor mount, all hardware for connecting and mounting and the pinion of you choice at no charge.

On the other motors, hang on to them, you never know what the future holds for the heli hangar and you may come across a really good deal on a used bird and want to run them, or ebay, lol.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Rusty,

What you mean by saying to stay away from 52A motor ? its too powerfull, and can damage or wear out the bird?

i am realy a power freak, and like to go to the limit :)

almost boght 52A motor with 55A esc + wireless pograming card for about 110 usd, but then thoght to my self that i need to slow down a little, as i have already sent over 550 and i dont even have one screw delivered to me yet :)

everything is on its way and i cant wait any more :(

i think i will get more upgraded in february, after i fly the bird a little.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Have any of you guys found a CF alternative flybar rod that is a direct replacement on the esky CNC head? I think the diameter is about 1.8mm and the length is 200 mm. I have searched and I can't find and exact match. Even though I could, I don't just want to buy blank CF rods. I tried the training gear rods but they are 2mm in diameter and dont fit throuh the hole in the flybar control arms.

Does this after market item even exist? Are the TREX 450 CF flybar just rods, or do they have some threading at the end?

Thanks,
Ed

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Hi can someone tell me if I can use a Hitec 65 MG servo on the tail for my HBK 2.??

I have a couple I can steal from my Little Chaos RC car. :)

thanks.

Oh yeah I have the 2.4 stock radio.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

I think it is ok. I believe many have used that servo on the tail. The only issue I see is that it is heavier than the stock one, and since this bird is already tail heavy, you will need to do something to realign the center of gravity.

If you have the option consider going with the Futaba s3114 for the tail.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Why in the world would you want a CF flybar rod? If I had every other part, 3 times over, and all the money ever minted I wouldn't buy one for a King.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

agreed 100%. Carbon would flex under duress, it is a part not needed for a king.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Update on my King2.... It's still in the box lol.

Some crap things happened and my heli project had to yet take another delay.

Such is life..[8D]

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

that which does not kill us only makes us stranger

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

By CF do you mean carbon fiber? If so it won't work as its too flexable and it will break
Flybar Trex #HS1184T 220MM and a tad thicker and much much harder then the stock flybar. 3-4$ for 2 of them. I ran them for a long time on my stock head you just have to "wind" the threaded ends through the weight and plastic which is a no brainer. I still use them oon my CNC head.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

The MG version has considerable more play in the gears then the HB servo and a sloppy tail servo is a big step backwards (might as well put back in a Esky servo)! Although the HS65MG is a tad heaver at about 11.5g (the HS65HB is about .2 gr less) it is not as heavy as say the digital servo that comes with the futaba 401 gyro at about 40+gram. I know someone in this forum that has a HS65 HB on the tail of his King and I believe also his EXI and is happy with them
I run a little Futaba s3114 as with HS-55 arm (3114 has a puny little arm that tends to break at where the ball attaches) as its about the fastest thing for the money out there at 15$, and also pretty torquey and I have NEVER had one fail (ok boom strikes don't count) in over a year. From what I have seen HS-65HB is top of the line for the money for cyclic hands down and is pretty much a bolt in replacement with minor fitting and the Futaba S3114 with the hitech arms is about as good as it gets for non digital and repeatablity to center correctly.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Thanks for the feedback. I thought some of the other helis were using the carbon fiber rods. I gues I was wrong...no big deal...I was just looking for a quick fix since I have discovered that my wobble is a result of an almost so slightly bent flybar rod.

Is the suggested HS1184T 220mm flyrbar rod 1.8mm in dia.?. Funflier, did you have to fight them hard into the control arms?

Regards,
Ed

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

not really I just threaded the end into it and pressed the smooth part through the rubber in the flybar weights as they are a little less then 2mm in dia (align rounds it off to 2mm) actually they are barely larger then the stock rods but much better quality. Stock rod is 1.76mm and the Align rod is 1.81

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

If anyone is interested in a Honeybee King 2 with a few upgrades and a lot of extras look here.(It also includes a head lock gyro) Really cheap price! And it's barely used. :D:D
http://cgi.ebay.com/Esky-Honeybee-Ki...1%7C240%3A1318

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Just received my hbk2 and could not wait to ppower it up, but when i did same second the maiin rotor started to spin, hit my hands a little and then the table :( i hope it didnt damage it self. btw my tx was off

Any way i have disconnected the motot and gave it another shot. My servos staarted to get a bit creazy. they went one way till icould hear the gears slipping and then the other way with same effect. is this normal or my servos got damaget when heli span out of my hends ?

i have then tryed to connect the mootor and it was idle (thanks god). when i gave a little puush to the throtle the heli started to shake like it was going into epileptic shok :(, but as i gave it more power is seemed better even thow its still shaky.

does stok giro tirn blue and beeps after initializing ? or it just stops flashing red and just stay red affter on.

also when the heli is powered and idle, i can hear some constant servo movement. not sure but i think its the tail servo.

I am sorry for speling mistakes as i am using my HTC to wright this message and cant spell check. :)

I hope you can tell me what are this things that happened.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Well first thing, never arm the heli without the radio being turned on, doing so will result in the headless chicken dance and most likely end up causing some damage in one form or the other. Also, ALWAYS check to make sure you do not have the idle up (or 3d) switch on. I would say at this point to remove all of the servo arms and re-center all of the servos including the tail. Servo chatter could be caused by one of the servos slipping a gear or you may have stressed one of the servos and burned it up, they are not real tough. Keep in mind that these servos strength are measured in oz.'s and it only takes oz.'s of pressure to screw them up.

Also check your tx batteries and make sure they are new, then check the placement of you antenna on your heli, make sure it is stretched out and not bunched up and make sure it is not run anywhere near the esc or receiver, the gyro will not cause interference.

The gyro should blink rapidly then go solid red when armed, if it does not then check that the throttle is in lowest position and that your throttle subtrim is in its lowest position (center all other trims as well). The shaking is most likely a bent feathering shaft, but before you go that far, make sure and center the servos and level everything (swash etc.), then check pitch on your mains, if the pitch on the mains is off and it takes one blade a bunch more adjustment than the other, it is probably a bent f-shaft. Most of the time you can see a bent f-shaft by a visual inspection of the position of the blade grips, it is always recommended that the shaft is removed for verification but usually you can see if it is bent.
That is where I would start.

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

:Dwell thanks for the feed back on the servos.
tried three kinds of servos. just for kicks :D

Hitec 55 works, so does a dynam brand i had laying around.
but it turned out the wobble and twitch I was getting on the servo and tail.
was not the servo at all. but chipped tail blades, from hitting the ground a few times landing.

replaced the tail blades and went back to the stocker servo. and Im back in the AIR.

well not really but about a 6 foot hover so far. :D

RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
 

Thanks Rusty,

But i have bad news, one (i hope) of my servos is out :(, so i guess i will not be flying any time soon as i need to order a new one tonight.

The TX i got is Mode 1 and i cant use it like this, how can i change it to be mode 2 by opening it up and reversing the sticks and wires ?

Mu tool box is still on its way so i cant take it apart because i don't have small screw driver yet :(

Basically it sucks :( and i need to wait more [:@]