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Thread: Club Mills!


  1. #201

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    RE: Club Mills!


    ORIGINAL: ffkiwi
    A second choice would be a Tornado plasticote wood 10x3 (but these are pretty thin on the ground these days). Certainly under no circumstances would I go smaller than a 9x4-and that would run it flat out-which is neither needful nor desirable for such an old and fairly rare engine.

    ChrisM
    'ffkiwi'
    Chris, I didn't mention the Tornado Plasticote because we're not allowed to discuss religion on these forums, and the Plasticote is going into my religion. IMHO they're just the best commercial props ever made. Unfortunately, again, there aren't too many still around... unless we have another look in my cupboard of course, but I'm starting to wonder when I'm ever going to dare to use them!

  2. #202

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    RE: Club Mills!

    FWIW I run old well balanced Taipan 10 X 4 or 10 X 6 on my 1.3s, and just let them run rich and undercompressed. Fuel is equal parts of ether, caster and JetA1 or kerosene plus about 2% IPN or similar.

  3. #203

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    RE: Club Mills!


    ORIGINAL: brokenenglish


    Chris, I didn't mention the Tornado Plasticote because we're not allowed to discuss religion on these forums, and the Plasticote is going into my religion. IMHO they're just the best commercial props ever made. Unfortunately, again, there aren't too many still around... unless we have another look in my cupboard of course, but I'm starting to wonder when I'm ever going to dare to use them!

    but you could take a mould from one-which is what I've done for several [admittedly never finished it] rare props I have-Plasticotes seemed to come in pitch sizes that no one else produced-and of course have lovely thin blades-which makes then suitable for cloning in glass or carbon-unlike most nylon ones. [Actually the trick-as explained to me by Dave Clarkson well known former UK C/L flier (former in the sense he still flies-but onlyFF these days) is to make a carbon or glass copy of your desirable unobtainable nylon prop, and then thin this down and rework it to your preferred blade shape and thickness, and then use this reworked one as a master to make your prop mould......but that's a lot of work-and requires you to make TWO moulds-one of which you only use once...........!]

    ChrisM
    'ffkiwi'

  4. #204

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Aurora "K Diesel" K Mills 100 on the stand.

    A KeilKraft 7 x 6 nylon propeller is fitted. I would have preferred an 8 x 4 propeller.

    The R/C throttle (as supplied with engine) is demonstrated in the third video.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_9YM...ature=youtu.be

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILImZPfLH7M

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJUqIU_QPsg
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  5. #205

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Fiery very nice runner indeed, easy start, smooth. was this "an out of the box one or needed a going over" I know quality varies on them rpms estimate? fuel %s used
    My Sharma PAW knock offs are fine only issue tight barrel on one of the RC carbs and they sent me a new one, as we know some of the Indian issues had their problems

    Best Regards martin

    forgot are these current production??

    I see Carson Engine Imports list the Auoras , 500,200,250 and 1.3 which is the smallest he has and states all test run at the factory

  6. #206
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    RE: Club Mills!

    Thanks for your advices about the prop size gentlemen, I have bench tested a 9x4 Zinger(wood), a 9x6 Top flite (wood) and a grey nylon 10x4 Graupner: this Mills seems to prefer the last one.

    Well, I just end to mount it in the Sparky and complete the electronic, I'm happy because the electric sparky is advertised @ 700-750 GR and the total weight of this diesel sparky (!) is just under 630 GR ready to fly but the empty tank (The battery was almost empty too ) .

    The RC throttle is a little lazy in transitions, much more than the K Mills 100 on the video of Mr Fiery: Congratulation, it's amazing! With the 10X4 Graupner, the engine iddles @ 3300RPM and 6300 full open with a rich setting.
    What do you think about ?

    I just have to wait a no wind day (rare here) to try it.

    I'm bored by the rx battery near the fuel tank, I think I will put it under the servos before I go flying...
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  7. #207

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    RE: Club Mills!

    The Aurora K100 shown above is pre-loved Martin. Nicely looked after by its previous custodian, who occasionally frequents this forum. No work required at all. I am very pleased with it.

    The R/C throttle is well made. "Ye olde" fixed air bleed design. Very similar to the R/C throttle available for the PAW 049 and 06.

    Fuel used is my standard PB sport diesel mix. 38.5% K, 35% E, 25% CO and 1.5% 2EHN or IPN.

    Aurora ceased manufacture of model engines in December 2012. Spares will continue to be available, possibly through agents. I believe negotiatons are in progress for the sale of the tooling, jigs and IP rights to the Mills line.

  8. #208
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    RE: Club Mills!

    The Sparky looks good! Looking forward to hearing how it flies. A mate of mine used to fly one with a Frog Vibramatic. Just the right sort of power. As I recall the Sparky turned quite lazily - not much dihedral and small fin & rudder

    I'm finishing off a combination of a Sparky fuselage and 54" Quaker wing. Going to call it a Quarky :-) It will have a Mills 1.3 Mk2. I just dug through my box of propellors and found a Topflite 10*3 1/2 so I'll give that a try on the weekend


  9. #209

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Here is the box for the new IC version of the TT Sparky, the TT Scooter. Comes in any colour you like, as long as it is translucent red.

    I found a Top Flite 10 x 3 1/2 nylon prop at the bottom of my 10 x 4 "old props" box. It must have come with a gift bunch of old props. I did not even know I had it.
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  10. #210

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    RE: Club Mills!

    fiery my kind of airplane . I am an ARF addict just lazy I guess to do a buildup, would be a good home for my PAW 06
    very classic looking martin

  11. #211
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    RE: Club Mills!

    The TT Scooter was made for the Thunder Tiger GP07 glow as I recall. Nice little engine and sweet handling, but not much power

    I ran my Mills 1.3 with a Topflite 10 * 3 1/2 today. Very nice! About 6,200 revs and seemed very happy. This particular engine has a lot of sub-piston induction. I haven't pulled it apart but it looks like the piston skirt has been relieved in a curve at the exhaust ports. On an 8*6 Master it turns at around 8,000 rpm and goes quite lustily. The bigger prop suits it better though and I'll stay with that.

  12. #212

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    RE: Club Mills!

    ON THE tt07 looks like you have a usable engine now that will fly the scooter martin

    8000 on the 8x6 sounds good it should have the thrust needed for the ship

  13. #213

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Sweet little 'Mills type' .4 cc in-line twin running.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVa4BMPhJPQ

    CS advise on ther web site that the "Navo 1.6 cc" Mills type twin engine is nearing release.

  14. #214

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    RE: Club Mills!



    The electric motor of diesels

    Currently on hand:

    2 Mk II .75's

    2 Mk II 1.3

    2 Mk II 1.3 with the R/C throttle, one of which is NIB

    John K.


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    RE: Club Mills!


    ORIGINAL: brokenenglish


    ORIGINAL: ffkiwi
    A second choice would be a Tornado plasticote wood 10x3 (but these are pretty thin on the ground these days). Certainly under no circumstances would I go smaller than a 9x4-and that would run it flat out-which is neither needful nor desirable for such an old and fairly rare engine.

    ChrisM
    'ffkiwi'
    Chris, I didn't mention the Tornado Plasticote because we're not allowed to discuss religion on these forums, and the Plasticote is going into my religion. IMHO they're just the best commercial props ever made. Unfortunately, again, there aren't too many still around... unless we have another look in my cupboard of course, but I'm starting to wonder when I'm ever going to dare to use them!

  16. #216

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Rear disc valve converted side valve design engines?


    Apparently coming soon ...


    http://www.redfinengines.com/new-products/


    There is an Australasian Agency. Address details:

    http://www.redfinengines.com/contact-us/

    http://www.redfinengines.com/about-us/

  17. #217

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Interesting!  
    The rear disc induction version uses the same side port cylinder but has a brass blanking plug fitted.  One wonders how they drove the disc.  If same crankshaft used in both it is possible to have a connecting piece in the form of a 'cup' that engages the bottom of the conrod and has an outer pin to drive the disc.  If starting from scratch one would simply have an extended crankpin,  but that would also suggest a plain non ported cylinder too which would cost less and be more reliable too (port can't fall off or leak if it isn't there).
    Site is almost 100% devoid of technical data like mounting dimensions and overall envelope size and engine weight, power output at RPM's and recommended prop. sizes and fuel.
    Whilst Distributor is England based my guess is the engines are made in China,  probably by CS or possibly by one of their competitors.  As with all engines one wonders what the quality and understanding is of the Engineering necessary to make them reliable and durable.  
    Jon

  18. #218

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Jon-what about a drive pin fitting into a hollow crankpin? IIRC the Mach-1 used this setup-a short pin with the larger diameter driving the disc via the usual hole, and a small concentric projection which fitted into a hollow crankpin to transmit the drive from the crankshaft.

    The engines on that site look awfully 'CS-Navo-ish'..........looks like someone is trying to see how many changes they can ring on the basic design. Mind you that would still make them the only rear disc 0.5cc and 0.8cc diesel engines currently available......discounting the occasional Valentine Cox derivatives...

    ChrisM
    'ffkiwi'

  19. #219

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Speaking of CS ...

    They are also releasing a "Mills Twin" 1.6 cc.

    http://www.csmodelengine.com/?a=product&id=38

    It will be interesting to see whether this is a further issue of the "boddo twin"; or a new (or updated) design.

    Here is a Giles Mills twin powered 'Junior 50'

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I3LW...mLn6ppLq_MDHzw

  20. #220

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Update - 

    Just looked at an engine today identical shape to the 'Redfin' series and reported to be made by CS.  Black anodised crankcase.  Looked like the .030 cu. in. (0.5cc) size.  Made the following observations: -
    1. Engine tight to turn over TDC.
    2. Coil spring fitted to needle far too long and coil bound preventing needle seating completely.  Part off pip left in centre of brass needle at top end.
    3. Comp. screw in dull dark yellow colour anodised cylinder jacket far too tight - thread binding.  Unable to determine fit of contra piston in bore.
    4. Removed cylinder and found two socket cap screw heads fouling cylinder OD with their OD's
    5. Conrod fouling base of cylinder bore.  Hand Dremel (or Chinese equivalent) grinding marks to base of cylinder attempting to get clearance. Rub marks both sides of conrod.
    6. At BDC piston uncovers ALL of two induction holes in cylinder, so on downstroke there will be a puff of exhaust gasses back out the inlet.
    7. Transfer ports are two milled grooves in cylinder bore.  Should be symmetrical but were not.
    8. Gudgeon pin loose in piston, ends not radiused.
    9. Steel induction port low temp. soldered to steel cylinder.  Should be silver soldered at red heat for the strength required.  Corrosion on cylinder base flange due to inadequate post soldering cleaning.  No cylinder base to crankcase gasket present.
    10. Conrod end bearings can be twisted a lot side to side suggesting conrod bores are 'hour glass' shaped and likely to wear rapidly.
    11. Small chip to piston skirt.
    12. No evidence of engine having been test run.

    Jon

  21. #221
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    RE: Club Mills!

    Masterful analysis Jon. Thanks very much. Helps me to understand why the two engines I have from you run so well.

  22. #222

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Never mind, I checked and peak HP for the.75, and 1.3 is around 10,000 RPM.

  23. #223

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Hi, While going over this thread, I was very impressed with the way a throttle carb Mills ran on an earlier post by fiery. Is that carb available anywhere. I have a Mills 1.3 that I built a while back. I would like to get it in the air in a 54" Quaker Flash that I'm trying to build lite as I can. Kind of awkward to fly without a throttle. I was going to try to design and build a carb but never got around to it. Thanks for any help, Larry

  24. #224

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    RE: Club Mills!

    Hi Larry,
    The original Mills throttle was only made for a fairly short period in theforties/fifties.
    By coincidence, I did a little presentation of the throttle, for a Web publication, about a month ago.
    Here it is. It will tell you a little about the throttle.
    Nowadays, everyone calls it an "RC throttle" but,of course, in 1948, virtually no-one flew RC with small diesels and the throttle wasn't actually intended for RC.
    Some replicas have been made. These occasionally come up on eBay but, in any case, I think they are very simple and relatively easy to make.
    And above all, they work very well.
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  25. #225

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    RE: Club Mills!

    G' Day Larry,

    I see your request for the Mills 1.3 throttle assy. I have this assembly drawn and tooled so could make you one of those. See pic. attached of one I made five years ago. Not quite so easy to make as suggested. Under test I found that it worked very well. I see others designs from time to time on eBay, however mine is an exact replica of the No. 3 throttle assy. as fitted to the Mills 1.3 Mk II's. There were earlier versions made by Mills but I have not handled these examples (stamped "1" and "2") to determine what design changes Mills made.

    Can make any part for the Mills .75 and 1.3 engines. Have made some parts for the Mills 2.4 too.

    If of interest contact me on: jonfletcher@optusnet.com.au

    Regards,

    Jon
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