brokenenglish

Andrew, I don't know... But 180 g of nose weight in a .35 size model isn't particularly shocking!
I know it's been said a million times before, but my first ever RC model was a Junior 60 that needed 450 g of lead in the nose, and it flew great.
So, personally, I wouldn't bother too much about 180 g in a 35 size model. A correct CG is a lot more important than a fairly modest amount of ballast...
Finally, I don't think many people on RCU will be familiar with the Pasadena, so if you really are concerned, maybe you should try the RCME forums. At least there you'll find someone who knows the model but, honestly, it ain't worth bothering about...

andrew b

Hi there Broken. I weighed the fully assembled model batts etc today, including it's new chunk of lead, all ready to fly except for fuel and it weights 4Lb 5oz (69oz) or 1.980Kg. It has a wingspan of circa 1 metre and a 190mm chord which gives a wing area of 0.38 Sq metres. or 640 Sq inches(4.4 sq/ft) so I figure the wing load is about 9.2 sq/inch-oz or about 1Lb sq foot.

Where have I gone wrong?

brokenenglish

Andrew, I still think that the major problem is just that you're worrying about it!
Obviously, you've built a model that's fairly "robust", and it might be slightly heavy.
I only fly sports/vintage and I've never worked out a wing loading on a model in my life!
Let's try simplistic "ballpark" reasoning.
You have a 1 m span biplane. It could be considered that, in terms of lifting ability, etc, your biplane equates to a monoplane of around 1.5 m.
Well, a 1.5 m (60 in) span monoplane at just over 4 lb isn't a lightweight, but it isn't ridiculous either (it's less than the stated weight on the box of the Flair J60, for example).
I had a similar situation with my Vic Smeed Electra (PAW powered of course), about 8 months ago. It's half a pound overweight but it flies very well - just a tiny bit fast...
To put it another way, why are you asking "Where have I gone wrong?", when there's nothing obviously wrong!
If you really are lacking confidence to that extent, try to get an expert pilot to do the first flight!

buzzard bait

Here's my PAW .40 in my VK Nieuport. Old plane built about 1970 and originally flown with ST .60, then left in a basement for about 40 years. Guy I bought it from was shocked by how well it flew with the .40 diesel. Prop is a 13x6 which it turned at about 7200 rpm. Plane weighs 5 lbs 6 oz. I went to a lot of trouble to get all weight forward; no ballast needed. Light weight makes for beautiful flights. Jim

brokenenglish

Very nice. Thanks a lot!

earlwb

I happen to have a few PAW engines myself, a .06, a .09, a .19 and a .29. I have a Indian made replica Aurora .35 engine as well.

AMB

EARL Happy New year and more important a healthy one--I have the same lineup as you one the PAWs plus a 40, my favorite 06 however is the MP Jet 061 regards martin

DeviousDave

I've had a .06BR for years that has done nothing but tug on a board over the course of a few runs, and a .19TBR that will someday power a Sig Little Extra. Saw someone did that in the 1/2A forum with a PAW .19 and thought it loopy enough to do the same.

classicracer

Last Saturday, I have been flying an F2E combat plane with PAW diesel. I have a choice of 6 1.5cc PAW's but which one did I choose???? The most worn out of course...

AMB

Good choice hope it does not wind up as cannon foder martin

greggles47

Here's the completed new project for my PAW 09 CT.

A midge is not fast but it's got to be fun!

brokenenglish

Looks very nice. I'd like to see it fly... Try to arrange some means of photos or video at the field.

DerFly

My first ever PAW, a 149 r/c bought new from Zanter Hobbies in Sydney suburb of Narrabeen in 1986, using first paycheck from first real job.


Still runs well despite considerable abuse over the years.


DF.

greggles47

I gave the Midge its maiden flight today. Load of fun until the silk elevator hinge stopped hinging! That was about half way through the flight. It made hardly any difference to control while it was under power.

Landing was yet a different story ..... at least it's an easy repair.

And yes too much fun!

Greg

DaveRondini

Wait, any sized PAW, or what?

brokenenglish

We have enough discussions!

I need to hear the music and get high on the smell...

Here's the 19D RC TBR, just before it goes back into the Electra for another season.

These really are superb "no problem" engines...

http://youtu.be/1e_RH7i0U2o

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

BE, thanks very much for great video. I currently have a .40 TBR the lived on a Sig Rascal 40, also have controline engine.

brokenenglish

Thanks a lot for your kind words. That engine (and my other PAWs) always starts in one or two flicks in summer but, as you saw, it takes 4 or 5 in winter... OK, that still ain't bad!
Thanks anyway.
Within the next few days, I'm going to do a video of an Oliver Tiger Mk II (1952). They're pretty rare nowadays, and still very impressive...

[email protected]

Yesterday was the first day this Spring it hit 70 F. so I ran my PAW .40. Small carb and adapter I got from a fellow originally set up for a PAW .49. So I needed
two "O" rings. Engine used for SAN Texaco event. Jack

telmore

I have a 15 & 19 tbr and Meranda an 80, a 15 and a 19 (all old type upright venturi) - the 19 as a missing crankpin but would cost more to repair than it cost, if anyone has a spare crankshaft for sale...

Annette

greggles47

I recently got a TBR 2.49, and I pretty happy with how it's running. Just about run in. If I had a model to suit I'd be flying it.

The problem for me is the muffler - 1st runs, all sort of black goo came seeping out between the cylinder muff and the muffler. I took the muffler off and contacted our local agent, who sent me a new set of muffler gaskets. I fitted these and although the black was reduced, it didn't really stop.

So today I sat and patiently sanded the surfaces of the muffler & the muff, then refitted the muffler. The situation was improved, but the black leakage still persists.

I noticed that the screws seemed to be overly long and may not have been allowing the muff to be fully tightened. I now replaced the screws with shorter ones.

Has anyone else encountered this? Is there a cure? Do I need to put the muffler on with a jointing compound?

Any input would be appreciated.

AMB

Greg over the years I had the same issue with some of my PAWs a small amount of Koppercote made by permatex I believe solved it applied to both sides of the muffler gaskets -- martin

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Hylomar M (racing formula) or Permatex Aviation No. 3 work for me

Recycled Flyer

Hi Greg,
Dave Owen retro fitted the ringed side canister muffler years ago on my PAW 19 and he had to machine the lowest fin off the cooling jacket but it had (in his words) "a drunken thread" - another way of saying that when gripped in a lathe the external diameter was not on the same axis as the internal diameter and so the seating area was in fact perpendicular to the exterior and not the critical interior.

It would not clamp down with even pressure around the entire circumference, but it seems to work well enough.

Perhaps you cooling jacket is similarly not seating down evenly.

Could you perhaps use a small square inside of the bore and back along the seat to verify this?

greggles47

Chris,

The cooling jacket is amongst the worst machining I've seen. The internal clearance is way too large and the lower face looked like it was cut with a second hand pair of false teeth!
This was among the reasons that I sanded all the surfaces.

Thanks all for the suggestions on gasket sealers - it's off to the auto shop today.