Dan Vincent

I have five PAW 1.5cc engines. Two of the originals, a DS-3 Contest, a blue muff Texaco and a BB RC with muffler. The blue "Texaco" version is well broken in and is a real "Puppy Dog" to handle.

The RC with Muffler will probaby be the one I'd pick for a sport RC model as it is quiet and the muffler allows routing the oily exhaust away from the model. The RC throttle is also a big plus.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

I was given this .09 Mk 1 BR R/C A/C to run in for a friend and I have a question concerning the spray bar jet orientation.

Do the same rules apply for the R/C carb as for the standard venturi? In other words, at wide open throttle, should the two jets be out-of-sight and facing toward the intake?

Or, should they be facing down at idle setting?

I ask this as the spray bar rotates with movement of the throttle lever.

I have set the spray bar with jet holes facing down at wide open throttle, however response is very poor.

Dan Vincent

Let me go out on a limb here and say that back in the fifties an engine guru told me that the spray bar hole should be to the side so that rushing air in the venturi would help siphon the fuel into the engine.

My PAW .09 MK-1 engines have a vertical venturi. That appears to be a later version.

buzzard bait

My understanding, I think from Dr. Diesel, is that fiery has it right. There are two holes in the spray bar, not one, and they are not directly across from each other. You orient the spray bar so the two holes are slight downward pointing, one on one side and one on the other. I remember it seemed like a very fiddly trick to get the carb assembled that way because you can't see the holes when they are properly oriented. My engines seemed to throttle better when set that way. Don't know why fiery is getting poor results.

Jim

Lou Crane

As has been mentioned, the 'holes' should be out of sight.

Throttling may improve if you apply Dr. Diesel's guideline - slightly higher comp than would be used with no carb, and mixture tweaked to suit. Too rich could bog the response down...

I don't have personal experience with flying throttled PAWs, but benching several, for self and others, seems to confirm that guidance. If you've done that and still have problems, by all means first try with the holes out of sight at idle. THEN, if necessary, sneak somewhere between the extremes. Diesels are much less sensitive than glows to such things, so it should have a happy 'sweet spot' somewhere in there.

My non-carb Bluehead 09BR is an excellent engine!

Recycled Flyer

Just wondering if the spray bar should have one hole positioned "just out of sight " on idle and the other the same at WOT.

(Never considered the rotating bar conundrum before!)

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

Recycled, I am pretty sure that is how the .09 came (presumably un-fiddled with) from the works.

I thought "that's odd" and then rotated the spray bar to both holes "out of sight" at WOT.

When I am at the field next week-end I will take my small socket spanners with me. No harm in testing both positions. The throttle equates to an "on/off" switch at the moment. Yet I have seen other small PAW's that throttle really well so it must be something I have done.

Mr Cox

The .09 MkI and MkII should both throttle really well, don't know why yours don't.

From memory I have always had mine such that the two holes do not show from the top at full throttle.

One problem that I have had on an MkI was that the throttle barrel was simply too loose in the carb (made from aluminium). This was solved by making a new barrel from Teflon instead.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

The rotor barrel is a 'free' fit in the body. Without a coil spring to maintain barrel alignment there is also significant considerable side-to-side play.

Mr Cox

You could try with an Enya 09 carb instead, they are a direct drop in and helped me when I was having a throttling issue.

The original PAW carb was also repaired by making a new throttle barrel for it. I found my old thread on that here; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ever...onversion.html

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

I have access to an ENYA .09 R/C carb and will try it. Thanks for the advice.

BrightGarden

Hi, just came across this thread and will jump in with a video I made to give the thread a bump. I made the video last year as I am still learning more about diesels. I keep my eye out for them now on eBay and other forums like RCU. I need to do an accounting of all the PAWs I bought in the last year. I have two .40's sitting here that need to be bench run - all are used, new-to-me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niQ1GwyZJYM

Cheers - Poughkeepsie Pete

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

At 2:25 she came to life. Consider yourself a new inductee to the honourable order of the oily hand and reekie rag .

BrightGarden

Greetings - I am happy to be part of the order. When I was a kid I would come across references to diesels - not many of them because I am in the US and of course they aren't as popular over here. I never could figure out what they were about, on my own as a kid. Flash forward a whole bunch of decades and I am enjoying collecting a few that I would like to get into old-time designs. I like running them on the bench, but need to get them airborne.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

There is nothing ... nothing ... in aero modelling like your first successful flight with a well tuned diesel.

Whether it be FF, CL or RC.

Enjoy. The rewards are well worth the effort.

controlliner

PAW 1.49 R/C and .19 R/C Both excellent starting and running with a 1/3-1/3-1/3 mix no amil nitrate. Am thinking of using a 33%castor 30% ether and 36% Kero.

buzzard bait

I had trouble with my PAW 09 till I re-set the spray bar, as Mr. Cox said, cross-wise, so the holes don't show looking down from the top. Felt like I needed three hands to get it all lined up, but eventually got it and it solved the problem.

hcn

Hello everybody, I can't believe it took me so long to find this thread. I've owned a PAW 60 RC TBR for more than ten years now, never put it in a plane because I didn't have one, and have only run it for two running-in sessions. I'm not an IC expert, but against the other IC engine I have (glow), it's much easier to work with and a lot more fun.

Now it's too nice a piece of kit to sell this engine, and the kids want to see it fly too, so I'm out for a model that fits. I'm confused about its power, though, and I couldn't find a single site on the entire web saying how well the 60 worked in a particular plane. So, what size airframe would that be? Span, AUW, prop size, etc.? I'm looking for a non-dihedral aerobatic plane in particular, maybe a warbird, anything that can be flown in a straight line wherever that line is pointing. I'm open to everything from second-hand build-up planes through ARF to kits and plans, and I know all this isn't going to happen within a few weeks (maybe not even this decade), so I'm not in a hurry.

And keep this club alive! I'm sure PAW would have more business if you could more easily find accurate data on the internet.

buzzard bait

In case no one can respond from experience, I'll tell you what I would try. My PAW flew a 40 size plane just fine, and I'd expect your 60 to fly a 60 size plane too, with wonderful sound. For aerobatic types, I don't think I'd go with the old ballistic pattern types for that engine, because the power/weight ratio isn't so great and I don't know if you could get enough speed, but certainly it would fly a Goldberg Tiger 60 or a Sig Four Star 60. I would paint them with latex which I think is fine for diesel fuel. If you use film, which would be the case with any ARF, seal the seams with something so the covering doesn't lift.

The Sig 4 Star 60 has enough ground clearance for a 14 inch prop, because that's what I use on mine (but with an OS 70 FS). I assume the Tiger 60 does too, but I'd check with someone. Of course there are various Stick types available. Or you might consider this...Aviator Pro 77in .60 Class Size Sports/Trainer ARF (Red) | Value Hobby
It gets good reviews, I'm quite sure it would have enough ground clearance, it would carry the weight of your engine, and I think the power would be fine.

Jim

controlliner

Just replaced the PAW carby on my 1.49 with an Enya .09 carby. The engine idles real well all day and snaps to attention when called upon. I love this engine better than my .19.
Jim

hcn

Thanks, Jim, after reading about what the engine does and does not deliver, It's good to have a ballpark figure for AUW of 6-7lbs. I'll keep that in mind when I really start looking for an airframe. Until then, maybe I can run the engine in and then take thrust measurements...

rfk1381

My Feedback: (7)

Hello PAW enthusiasts!

I have several used but well running PAWs which need a new home. I truly hate to part with them, but I switched to electric. Includes original boxes and instructions plus "Dr Diesel's Diary".

PAW .19 BR RC
PAW .35 RC
PAW .49 TBR RC

I will post them in the for sale section.

Ron Kosar (rfk1381)

controlliner

I'm interested in the PAW .35
Jim West

FSII

G'day Ron, I'm interested in the PAW 19 if it's still available
Cheers
Clive

FSII

Delete, sorry fat fingers