The LOLA .020 diesel
02-01-2015, 03:00 PM
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The LOLA .020 diesel
Now available. Has anyone run one of these yet? Price is up there, but what you would expect to pay for a quality item.
http://palmodelproducts.com/lola.html
http://palmodelproducts.com/lola.html
02-01-2015, 08:49 PM
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I haven't run one, but had a good look over one that the designer happened to have at his place. I agree that the price is fairly steep, but the quality seemed excellent - they're made for PAL by Fora.
02-02-2015, 12:28 AM
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When you look at what you are getting, together with the included accessories, it's not a bad deal.
Just look at what clapped out Bambi's are fetching on 3Bay, not to mention some of the Valentine micro's.
Just look at what clapped out Bambi's are fetching on 3Bay, not to mention some of the Valentine micro's.
02-02-2015, 08:42 PM
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If it is made by Fora it will be good but at $AU250 it makes the Peter Burford .33 look like really good value. I know it costs more but it is in a league or its own for quality engineering.
02-03-2015, 01:15 PM
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David Owen (Owen Engines Australia) was consulted and worked on various parameters including porting and timing. Others were involved in the project. So,
"LOLA" stands for:
L – Lipori; O – Owen; L – Langelius; A – Acton;
[the “TEAM”]
"LOLA" stands for:
L – Lipori; O – Owen; L – Langelius; A – Acton;
[the “TEAM”]
02-03-2015, 03:20 PM
#9
I had intended to update the Site, but it was done professionally, was outdated technology and was very expensive to modify.
Taking personal control of my Domain in preparation to change the engine Site and to publish a Site for my new International One Metre racing yacht, meant that the 0.33 Engine Site went down for at least a time.
Over several months I received only two comments on it's absence and no reference on any of the forums.
I began to wonder. I have engines and many component parts in stock.
I enjoy making them and complete more from time to time.
Of course, without the Site, I don't sell them.
Racing and building IOM yachts has become quite a time consuming passion.
I have orders in hand, even without publishing a Site, and my time is limited.
I'm considering what I will do with the PB 0.33 Diesel, parts already made, all the tooling, machinery and equipment.
A very comprehensive engineering workshop!
It may be time to offer it to someone else?
Peter
02-03-2015, 07:40 PM
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Good to see you are still here Peter. Thanks for posting. That the pb .33 engines and spares are still available is also great news.
02-04-2015, 10:28 AM
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I too noticed that Peter's site had gone, only last week,
Thankfully the "waybackmachine" (google it) has it all safely stored including photos, so I saved all the pages for myself as sometimes the photos are lost,
This is the link,
http://web.archive.org/web/201401141...urford.com.au/
I have no.25,
Sion.
Thankfully the "waybackmachine" (google it) has it all safely stored including photos, so I saved all the pages for myself as sometimes the photos are lost,
This is the link,
http://web.archive.org/web/201401141...urford.com.au/
I have no.25,
Sion.
02-04-2015, 01:29 PM
#12
I have noticed the site being down too, just thought it was sad to see another great engine go away...
I have only seen a proper IOM close up once, the design seems every bit as complicated as the big ones, if not even more!
I have only seen a proper IOM close up once, the design seems every bit as complicated as the big ones, if not even more!
02-10-2015, 10:17 AM
#14
I placed a order for a LOLA engine from Bob Langiolus's PAL Website. He stated they were available now.
http://palmodelproducts.com/
Bob had sent me a email about the engines a few days ago too.
So I assume he has some for sale.
Oh OK I see now that Peter's engine is a little different from the LOLA engine, the PB has the intake on the side instead of on top.
http://palmodelproducts.com/
Bob had sent me a email about the engines a few days ago too.
So I assume he has some for sale.
Oh OK I see now that Peter's engine is a little different from the LOLA engine, the PB has the intake on the side instead of on top.
Last edited by earlwb; 02-10-2015 at 02:24 PM. Reason: add more info
02-10-2015, 02:30 PM
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The pb .33 c.c. is schnuerle ported. The LOLA .020 c.i. (same nominal displacement) appears to have 'COX' type split-flow porting.
Last edited by fiery; 02-23-2015 at 07:45 PM.
02-18-2015, 05:08 PM
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Looks like a K&B prop. What size is it Earl?
When you look at all the 'goodies' you get and the quality of the engine itself I feel the price is reasonable. A report on the performance of the R/C throttle would be appreciated.
A report on the development prototype, initially referred to as the "Imp"
http://www.thebuildingboard.com/2011/03/pal-imp.html
When you look at all the 'goodies' you get and the quality of the engine itself I feel the price is reasonable. A report on the performance of the R/C throttle would be appreciated.
A report on the development prototype, initially referred to as the "Imp"
http://www.thebuildingboard.com/2011/03/pal-imp.html
Last edited by fiery; 04-18-2015 at 08:32 PM.
02-18-2015, 06:14 PM
#19
I'll be letting you know for sure how it does and runs.
Iit is a black plastic prop, and it is a 6x3 size. I had to look closely at the rear to see the tiny size and pitch marking. It looks like it is a Cox engine propeller.
Iit is a black plastic prop, and it is a 6x3 size. I had to look closely at the rear to see the tiny size and pitch marking. It looks like it is a Cox engine propeller.
Last edited by earlwb; 02-19-2015 at 07:45 AM. Reason: typo correction
02-19-2015, 04:58 AM
#20
More pictures of the LOLA .020 diesel engine.
To use the throttle, you need to pull the venturi body out of the crankcase. Then press the throttle body into the crankcase. Then you transfer the needle assembly to the throttle body. That is something I am not likely to do to the engine though. I am reluctant to mess it up.
To use the throttle, you need to pull the venturi body out of the crankcase. Then press the throttle body into the crankcase. Then you transfer the needle assembly to the throttle body. That is something I am not likely to do to the engine though. I am reluctant to mess it up.
Last edited by earlwb; 02-19-2015 at 05:01 AM. Reason: add more info
02-19-2015, 06:47 PM
#22
Yes that is correct. It is a simple throttle, nothing fancy. When you think about it as the engines get smaller in displacement they don't need a lot of things like air bleeds, automixture etc. The smaller engines don't idle very low in speed anyway. Plus the thrust being so low, if the engine goes below say 6,000 RPMs there isn't enough thrust to do anything. I remember with .049 engines where you could shoot touch and goes even when the engine was idling at 4 to 5k rpms.
Last edited by earlwb; 02-19-2015 at 06:50 PM. Reason: add more info
02-21-2015, 05:42 PM
#23
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Quite true-my G-Mark 03's idle at ~6,000...but there's not much draft from a 4" prop at those revs. Interestingly-ever had a look at your original OS Max10 carb closely? It has no airbleed or throttle stop scews-but the carb body casting has 'lugs' where they were intended to go. Obviously OS found there was no need for them, and omitted them from the production models....conversely-the Taifun Zyklon had-when it appeared in 1962 had quite an advanced throttle for the era-and especially so for a diesel- with an adjustable airbleed and throttle stop-and could idle below 4,000rpm-still respectable even today. I gather from my contacts in Germany that subtle changes to the carb barrel throat were made over the years to improve the throttle response...
ChrisM
ChrisM
02-23-2015, 07:06 PM
#24
Re throttles:
The benefit of an adjustable stop screw is evident.
With my Pb 0.33, I found that adding an adjustable air-bleed enabled a lower and more consistent idle that can be maintained for a long period, followed by a smooth and rapid pick up when the throttle is opened.
It's just set-and-forget.
All stuff known since the '60's and just as would be expected with the better low speed fuel/air mixture.
Though, I did experiment with several prototype throttles to learn it all over again.
Alternatively, a simple exhaust flap gives an acceptably low speed for most cases and keeps the engine hot enough to clear the rich mixture without cutting out, when it is opened.
Peter
The benefit of an adjustable stop screw is evident.
With my Pb 0.33, I found that adding an adjustable air-bleed enabled a lower and more consistent idle that can be maintained for a long period, followed by a smooth and rapid pick up when the throttle is opened.
It's just set-and-forget.
All stuff known since the '60's and just as would be expected with the better low speed fuel/air mixture.
Though, I did experiment with several prototype throttles to learn it all over again.
Alternatively, a simple exhaust flap gives an acceptably low speed for most cases and keeps the engine hot enough to clear the rich mixture without cutting out, when it is opened.
Peter